Auctions

100 Drawings from the ‘Picasso of Watchmaking’ Head to Auction

AuctionsJan 10, 2022

100 Drawings from the ‘Picasso of Watchmaking’ Head to Auction

“Gérald Genta: Icon of Time” will open the archives for the first time this spring at Sotheby’s.

20220110_Gerald-Genta-Sothebys-header.jpg
The upcoming auctions at Sotheby’s will feature 100 drawings by Gerald Genta, including his favorite, seen here faded at the top right corner—an enamel box with a Fabergé-inspired flower design, holding a perpetual calendar inside.
Geneva—Starting next month, Sotheby’s will celebrate one of the world’s most famous watch designers with a dedicated sales series. 

“Gérald Genta: Icon of Time” will honor “the Picasso of watchmaking” by featuring 100 of his drawings in a series of sales in Geneva, Hong Kong, and New York. 

Born in Geneva in 1931, Genta had designing and art in his heart, eventually entering the area of national pride, Swiss watches. 

Genta created at least one watch design every day, Sotheby’s said, amounting to 100,000 drawings throughout his career, many of which have been lost or destroyed.

Each started with a single circle drawn with Genta’s compass to the exact size of the watch and then produced with fine pencils and paintbrushes, allowing for the final watches to be identical to his original to-scale designs. 

He started off at a time when the role of watch designer didn’t exist, and so would travel to the watch manufacturers to pitch his designs for 10 Swiss francs each. 

At 23, he created a design while working for Universal Geneve for the Scandinavian Airline System (SAS) Polerouter, a watch that commemorated the polar flights of the airline and became one of the brand’s biggest successes.

It basically started the role of “watch designer,” leading more manufacturers to call on young creators. 

 Related stories will be right here … 

It also kicked off a career path for Genta that led to him designing for brands like Omega, Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, IWC, Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Chaumet, Hamilton, and Bulgari, among others.

He created his own company in 1969 and developed his brand with his wife and business partner, Evelyne Genta, producing pieces for unique clients.

Genta combined new shapes and materials with major watchmaking complexities, and reimagined traditional mechanisms, like the perpetual calendar, for the modern day.

In 1999, he sold his company to an Asian corporation. 

He died in 2011, but his vision lives on today through the approximately 3,500 beautiful sketches, gouaches, and watercolor designs in his family’s collection.

The upcoming auctions to commemorate his vital role in watch design will open the archives for the first time, featuring 100 original designs, from some of his most iconic timepieces to never-before-seen private commissions and a selection of innovative and unique watch designs.

20220110_Gerald-Genta-Sothebys-Royal-Oak.jpg
At left is the original 1970 sketch for the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, the watch that has come to define his legacy (Geneva sale, February). At right is the never-before-seen first design he ever produced for the Royal Oak, which is quite different to the design the world knows now but still with the iconic octagonal case (Geneva sale, February).

A highlight of the sale is the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. The company approached Genta in 1970 for the watch that would revolutionize the industry—the first sports watch to be made of steel, elevating the metal to the level of precious materials for the first time in the watchmaking world.

Genta designed The Royal Oak overnight, Sotheby’s said, inspired by a childhood memory of seeing a man being sealed into an old-fashioned diving suit near the Mont Blanc bridge in Geneva.

The Royal Oak features an octagonal-shaped bezel mirroring the shape of a vintage diving helmet, with the eight hexagonal screws securing it to the watch as a helmet to the diving suit.

Genta followed the manufacturing process of the watch through every stage over the following two years before its launch in 1972, when it retailed for $4,000.

The Royal Oak wasn’t widely appreciated at first, except for the Italian market, and it took three years for sales to begin to climb. Still produced today, though, it’s now one of the brand’s bestsellers.

Also of note in the auction is Genta’s design for the Patek Philippe Nautilus.

As the story goes, he was in a bar in 1976 during the Basel fair when then-CEO Philippe Stern walked in, making Genta wonder how he’d design a steel sports watch for the brand. He sketched an idea on a napkin in five minutes.

Not long after, the brand contacted Genta to design a stainless-steel watch, for which he already had the design.

This one, too, was inspired by the nautical world, but instead featured a soft-angled bezel based on the portholes of transatlantic ships. The blue dial was also made in the same color as the Swiss lakes on which Stern liked to sail.

20220110_Gerald-Genta-Sothebys-Nautilus.jpg
At left is Genta’s original design for the Nautilus, one of his only designs to also show the side profile of the watch (Hong Kong, March 2022). At right, the original De Gefica Safari Montre Beretta (New York, April 2022).

There’s also the Gelica Safari, requested by three safari hunters in 1984. Named for an aggregation of their first names, the model quickly became iconic in the watch world with its moon phases and compass.

It was also the first watch with a bronze case, designed with hunting visibility—or rather, a lack of—in mind, as the material didn’t reflect sunlight.

Another notable lot is the 1985 redesign of a watch made by Louis Cartier more than five decades prior for the Pasha of Marrakech.

The result of a personal relationship with the then-president of Cartier, one of Genta’s favorite brands, the watch was recreated to have a complication component as well as the moon in gold and the sky in lapis lazuli rather than the two being painted on.

20220110_Gerald-Genta-Sothebys-Pasha.jpg
At left, one of Genta’s early designs for the Pasha, which was never presented to Cartier for production (Geneva, February 2022). At right, the Grande Sonnerie World Time Repetition Montres Tourbillon Minutes (Hong Kong, March 2022).

Ten years later, after half a decade of research and development, Genta unveiled the Grande Sonnerie, the most sophisticated and complex wristwatch in the world at the time and what Sotheby’s said was “perhaps Genta’s most important contribution to high watchmaking.”

Emulating the chimes of London’s Big Ben, the watch—which had only been made as a pocket watch before— included more than a thousand spare parts.

Genta made 20 of the Grand Sonnerie watches in total; designs for three are included in the sales.

The Geneva auction will run from Feb. 10-24, followed by the Hong Kong event from March 10-24, and finishing with a New York auction from April 14-28.

Each painting in the auction series will be paired with a unique NFT that features an artistic digital replica of the design, a certificate of authenticity, and, for select pieces, never-before-seen multimedia content.

Bidding on the NFT lots will start at 100 CHF for the Geneva sale, HKD 1,000 for the Hong Kong sale, and $100 for the New York sale.

Additionally, a portion of the sales’ proceeds will benefit the Gérald Genta Heritage Association and its mission to support the next generation in the watch industry. 
 
The series will culminate with the auction of Gérald Genta’s Unique Royal Oak Watch in May, estimated at $300,000-$500,000.

The Latest

Bergman Jewelers family
IndependentsApr 01, 2025
Bergman Jewelers in Omaha Closing After 137 Years

The independent jeweler first opened its doors in 1888.

QVC Group Inc. logo
MajorsApr 01, 2025
QVC Group to Cut 900 Jobs in the U.S.

The layoffs come amid the TV shopping channel’s efforts to restructure and focus on live shopping through social media.

Coconut Grove Jewelry & Watch Show
Events & AwardsApr 01, 2025
U.S. Antique Shows Adds Fall Show in Florida

The debut event will take place in Miami’s Coconut Grove neighborhood this fall.

bench jeweler 1872x1052.png
Brought to you by
The Heart of the Industry: Giving Bench Jewelers the Recognition They Deserve

Bench jewelers spend years honing their skills, Jewelers of America’s Certification validates their talents.

The Jewelry Symposium (TJS)
Events & AwardsApr 01, 2025
TJS to Host Discussion on Jewelry Industry’s Labor Shortage

The roundtable will take place May 17 ahead of the trade show’s welcome dinner.

Weekly QuizMar 27, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Peanuts x Monica Rich Kosann Collection Bracelets
CollectionsApr 01, 2025
Monica Rich Kosann Says ‘Good Grief’ in Peanuts Jewelry Collection

The “Peanuts x Monica Rich Kosann” collection features the comic strip’s classic vocabulary across 10 bracelet designs.

Graphic for What Do We Mean When We Say “Recycled” Gold webinar
Recorded WebinarsMar 31, 2025
Watch: What Do We Mean When We Say ‘Recycled’ Gold?

Three industry experts dive into the complexities of the material often marketed as an “ethical” alternative for metal in jewelry.

Facets-of-Fire-Difference-You-Can-See.jpg
Brought to you by
Natural Diamonds Should Mean More

Natural diamonds mean more than lab-grown, but when every cut is ideal, they all look the same. Customers want more—Facets of Fire delivers.

Mindi Mond Clarity Earrings
TrendsMar 31, 2025
Amanda’s Style File: Dripping in Diamonds

Diamonds are not only one of the most prominent gemstones, but the birthstone for those born in April.

Lashbrook ring
MajorsMar 31, 2025
Lashbrook Expands Into Luxury Golf Gifts With Acquisition

The Utah-based company known for making wedding bands has acquired Doubloon Golf.

Bulgari and LVMH Watches CEO Jean-Christophe Babin
WatchesMar 31, 2025
Bulgari CEO Jean-Christophe Babin Will Also Head LVMH Watches

The longtime luxury executive led one of LVMH’s watch brands, TAG Heuer, for 12 years before taking over Bulgari in 2013.

Surveillance footage of robbery
CrimeMar 28, 2025
2 Suspects Arrested in $1.7M Smash-and-Grab Robbery of NY Jewelry Store

Authorities said the robbers fled with jewelry and 70 Rolex watches, later taking pictures of themselves posing with big stacks of cash.

Nephrite and Jadeite by Heinrich Fischer, Richard W. Hughes
SourcingMar 28, 2025
19th-Century Jade Book Now Available in English

Lotus Gemology founder Richard W. Hughes has translated Heinrich Fischer’s 1880 book “Nephrit und Jadeit” from its original German.

LÖF The Valentine Ring
CollectionsMar 28, 2025
Piece of the Week: Löf’s ‘The Valentine’ Ring

The ring's design features contrasting lines influenced by work from architecture-inspired photographer Nikola Olic.

Eggs on a shelf
SurveysMar 27, 2025
Consumer Confidence Falls in March Amid ‘Gloomy’ Outlook

The Conference Board’s index fell as consumers continued to worry about the impact of tariffs, the labor market, and the price of eggs.

Austin Butler
WatchesMar 27, 2025
Austin Butler Joins Breitling as Brand Ambassador

The Oscar-nominated actor debuted in the campaign for the new “Top Time B31” collection, which introduced Breitling’s Caliber B31.

ICA Congress Brazil 2025
SourcingMar 27, 2025
Susan Jacques, Gaetano Cavalieri to Headline 2025 ICA Congress

The Congress is scheduled to take place May 19-22 in Brasilia, Brazil.

Bailey’s Fine Jewelry storefront
IndependentsMar 26, 2025
Bailey’s Fine Jewelry Acquires Fellow NC Independent Jeweler

The family-owned retailer is the new owner of Morrison Smith Jewelers in Charlotte, North Carolina.

Bulova 150 Art Deco Miss America Watch, 150 Art Deco Pocket Watch
WatchesMar 26, 2025
Bulova Celebrates 150th Anniversary With Art Deco Watches

The “150 Art Deco” collection features a Miss America timepiece and a pocket watch from the brand’s Archive Series.

Alex Wellen
MajorsMar 26, 2025
QVC Group Appoints New President

Alex Wellen, formerly CEO and president of MotorTrend Group, has taken on the role.

Jewelers of America’s new logo
Events & AwardsMar 26, 2025
Jewelers of America Announces New Funding Initiative

The Impact Initiative is part of the nonprofit association’s new three-year strategic plan.

Diamond earrings held in gloved hand
CrimeMar 25, 2025
Tiffany & Co. Earrings Swallowed Following Grab-and-Run Theft Recovered

The two pairs of earrings, snatched from a Tiffany & Co. store in Orlando, Florida, are valued at a combined $769,500.

Emmanuel Raheb CEO of Smart Age Solutions
ColumnistsMar 25, 2025
The Smart Lab: Using Short-Form Videos to Sell More Jewelry

The time to start experimenting with video content is now, writes columnist Emmanuel Raheb.

Pomellato Nudo High Jewelry Campaign
CollectionsMar 24, 2025
Pomellato’s Latest ‘Nudo’ Collections Revamp its Classic Design

From striking high jewelry to miniature fine jewelry, the new chapter continues to highlight gemstones featuring its signature 57-facet cut.

Jamie Singleton, Bill Brace, Rebecca Wooters, Bill Luth
MajorsMar 24, 2025
4 Top Executives to Depart Signet Jewelers Amid Turnaround

The jewelry giant is reducing its senior leadership by 30 percent as part of its new turnaround strategy.

Sothebys Watchcheck
WatchesMar 24, 2025
Sotheby's Now Offers Watch Repair Services

The auction house's partnership with online watch servicing platform WatchCheck makes repairs convenient and accessible, it said.

Swarovski lab-grown diamond Galaxy earrings
FinancialsMar 21, 2025
Swarovski Says Its Lab-Grown Diamond Sales Doubled in 2024

The company also noted record sales in the United States and a strong performance in its jewelry category.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy