Editors

The Jewelry Insider’s Guide to ‘The Sopranos’

EditorsJan 31, 2024

The Jewelry Insider’s Guide to ‘The Sopranos’

A well-known woman in the jewelry world helped shape the stylistic narrative of one of the most iconic television series of all time.

20200513_Sopranos-header.jpg
Lauren Kulchinsky Levison inadvertently became the mastermind behind the fine jewelry worn on “The Sopranos.” (Image courtesy of Warner Media/HBO)
Editor’s note: This story was originally published in May 2020. 

You might know Lauren Kulchinsky Levison as the uber-fashionable proprietor of family-owned and -operated Mayfair Rocks, snapped by street-style photographers in an array of to-die-for designer gowns heading into fashion shows in New York, London, Milan and Paris. 

Or maybe you recall Levison as only the second woman to be inducted into National Jeweler’s Retailer Hall of Fame in 2002, when she was 31 years old (at the time, the youngest inductee).  

Before dedicating herself to the fourth-generation family business Levison was an actress, perhaps explaining her ease with having all eyes on her.  

But her most surprising role was totally behind-the-scenes, for no pay and little credit, when she styled the jewelry for “The Sopranos,” arguably one of the most iconic television shows of our era and one I began watching for the first time while quarantined at home.   

Lauren Kulchinsky Levinson pictured in Giambattista Valli at the Autumn/Winter 2018 Haute Couture shows in Paris (image courtesy of TheStreetVibe)
Lauren Kulchinsky Levinson pictured in Giambattista Valli at the Autumn/Winter 2018 Haute Couture shows in Paris (image courtesy of TheStreetVibe)

The HBO show ran from 1999 to 2007, heralding the current Golden Age of television, bringing the kind of character-driven, meaty roles typically reserved for film to the small screen. (In fact, creator David Chase originally conceptualized “The Sopranos” as a feature film.) 

Levison found her way to “The Sopranos” by way of the show’s lead, the late James Gandolfini. The two got to know each other through New York’s close-knit acting community, meeting on set of the 1996 film “The Juror.” 

Levison had already inadvertently been dabbling in blending her worlds —acting and jewelry/watches—on the set of the 1990s TV series “New York Undercover.”
She said after seeing the elaborate sets and props used for the Dick Wolf-powered police drama, she was amazed that the actors wore fake timepieces. 

“The guys were wearing fake TAG Heuers,” she noted. “They were empty. There was no movement.” 

A crew member knew Levison’s family was in the jewelry business and asked her to help him buy a watch he wanted. Soon, she was helping the busy cast and crew pick out gifts for their significant others, bringing items from jewelry store to set. 

Actors also wanted to wear watches—the real deal—on camera. Levison supplied pieces on loan and was charged with handling them. 

“I was just happy I was still working,” she said. “It was really hard to be a New York actor at that time, let alone part of a weekly episodic show. I got a job on a movie set for the summer and word got out that I was ‘the jewelry girl.’”
That movie was “The Juror,” where she met Gandolfini, and again, Levison was sourcing birthday gifts and push presents. 

A few years later, Gandolfini gave Levison a call. He had just booked the pilot for a new HBO show—“The Sopranos.” 

“He said, ‘You should see if you can get on it,’” Levison recalled. “I said, ‘What, am I going to just call and see if I can get on it?’” 

The pilot was already cast, but Gandolfini suggested she act as a stand-in to be part of the production. 

“I get there and I was literally standing in for Jamie-Lynn Sigler, Lorraine Bracco and Michael Imperioli, and they were all different heights,” she laughed.
 
“How are you supposed to be the best Carmela you can be if you’re in fake jewelry? Tony would never have his wife in fake jewelry. She’d be in the best he could bring home.” – Lauren Kulchinsky Levison 

She couldn’t help her jewelry and watch expertise from creeping into her job description, again. 

“I started to notice that Edie Falco was in this mesh necklace, tons of chains, a big cross, and it was all fake.” 

Levison thought the look was right for a mob wife, but not the quality. She had her own ideas of how to amplify characters’ stories through jewelry, plus an all-hands-on-deck helpful attitude that had been honed through years of theater. 

“Growing up in show business, [a production] is a group effort. You want to make the best show possible. You want the group to succeed. In New York, it’s a tight-knit community. You’re one big family. There was no separation between the cast and crew.”
Levison offered her jewelry and watch styling services to “Sopranos” creator and head writer Chase. Gandolfini vouched for her talents. 

With that, an accidental jewelry stylist was born. 

Levison received copies of the closely guarded script, typically only given out in bits and pieces on an as-needed basis, to fulfill her costume design needs. 

“It was never, well I’m going to make this about me and my jewelry,” Levison explained. “It was about making [the look] authentic and real, and developing how and why pieces would be worn. It was about getting into character and making sure an actor’s character is dressed. That was the main hole. 

“How are you supposed to be the best Carmela you can be if you’re in fake jewelry? Tony would never have his wife in fake jewelry. She’d be in the best he could bring home. How can Lorraine Bracco’s character, Dr. Melfi, be in something fake when she’s trying to teach someone to be their authentic self?” 

Levison supplied Breitling watches for the show’s male Mafia characters, like Gandolfini, Imperioli and Steven Van Zandt (better known to some as Little Steven from Bruce Springsteen’s E Street Band). Gandolfini wore a medallion on a curb-link chain that was his own.
Levison got to flex her styling muscles with the female characters, collaborating with the actresses on looks that would best bring their personas to life. 

“There’s a mesh necklace that you’ll see [worn by Edie Falco’s character, Carmela Soprano] and it looks like it’s fabric and that’s Christian Tse,” Levison recalled. “He was just starting out. Everyone wanted that necklace. I must have sold 20 a week of that necklace.”

It was an “elevated” take on a similar item Falco sported in the pilot episode, Levison noted, and Carmela wore some version of it as her layering “base” piece every season. 

The necklace, worn among Carmela’s gold layers, carried a special symbolism Levison associated with the character, the matriarchal cornerstone of an Italian-American family. 

“I wanted something that looked almost like fabric because it was reminiscent of a family quilt. She was in charge of the family; she makes the sauce, she makes the food.” 
Stefan Hafner, Christian Tse, Antonini, Garavelli and Orlando Orlandini were designers Levison turned to regularly throughout the series. 

Lorraine Bracco expressed a preference for Ten Thousand Things, so Levison sourced pieces from the New York-based brand for Bracco’s character, psychiatrist Dr. Melfi. 

Drea de Matteo brought lots of visual notes for her character Adriana La Cerva (seen below), down to her long fingernails. 

“She was really in charge of her wardrobe and jewelry,” said Levison.
“I wanted it to be like ‘Peter and the Wolf;’ you hear an oboe and you know it’s that character. You see Drea’s nameplate necklace and Playboy bunny necklace and it’s so Drea, it couldn’t be anybody else. That was really her choice.”

One of her favorite characters to style was Gloria Trillo, played by Annabella Sciorra in season three.

“I’m really proud of that part. She was an elevated woman coming into Tony’s world. I was able to play more with pieces and style them as individual pieces instead of piled one on top of another.”

“The Sopranos” aligned with what Levison feels was the beginning of women purchasing jewelry for themselves.

“Women were watching jewelry they could emulate, beyond the basic pieces like the diamond studs. They saw a housewife wearing her jewelry and a professional woman wearing different jewelry every time you see her, in pieces that correlate with who she is.”

Sciorra’s character, Tony Soprano’s girlfriend, was a prototype of the self-purchasing woman.

Antonini's
Antonini's "sleek, modern" aesthetic perfectly fit character Gloria Trillo, a modern, self-purchasing woman (seen center and right). On the left, actress Annabella Sciorrais is pictured in the reversible pendant Levison personally owned and lent for the show.

Working as a Mercedes Benz salesperson, she proudly showed Tony the watch she bought herself after a good commission.

Levison dressed the character in lots of Antonini because, “it was sleek and modern and cool like she was.”

One particular piece that stood out was a personal pendant Levison loaned for the Gloria Trillo character.

“It was all hand-enameled on one side and had all rose-cut diamonds on the other side. I felt because she was such a dual personality, it was fitting for her. Sometimes we’d put it on one side or the other.”

“It was this perfect storm,” said Levison of women beginning to buy themselves the pieces they wanted, knocking down the old wait-to-be-gifted paradigm.

“It was a huge disruption in the jewelry industry when we went from giving jewelry as gifts to collections that work with fashion, to jewelry being considered an accessory instead of an inaccessible item.

“‘Sopranos’ was a really big part of that and I’m proud to have been involved in a small way.”

Known as "the jewelry girl" on sets, Levison began supplying jewelry for the cast and their signifcant others on the red carpet. Pictured at left is Gandolfini with first wife Marcy at the Emmys in a Stefan Hafner spring wire collar "to be more sleek and minimalist with the red dress," Levison said. At right, at another Emmys appearance, Marcy wears a platinum and gold Christian Tse necklace to complement the "more Renaissance" look. (Images courtesy of Lauren Kulchinsky Levison)
Known as "the jewelry girl" on sets, Levison began supplying jewelry for the cast and their signifcant others on the red carpet. Pictured at left is Gandolfini with first wife Marcy at the Emmys in a Stefan Hafner spring wire collar "to be more sleek and minimalist with the red dress," Levison said. At right, at another Emmys appearance, Marcy wears a platinum and gold Christian Tse necklace to complement the "more Renaissance" look. (Images courtesy of Lauren Kulchinsky Levison)

Just as Levison’s role as the set’s resident jewelry and timepiece whisperer came about organically, so did her transition from on-set jewelry costume design to red carpet styling.

As “The Sopranos” quickly rose to acclaim, she found herself styling many of the cast members’ red carpet jewelry looks, outfitting the actresses in incredible jewelry suites to go to the Emmys or Golden Globes.

At the end of each season, there was a special credit to Mayfair Jewelers for Levison’s assistance.

When Levison and her family opened their Hamptons outpost in 2000, “The Sopranos” cast was there to fete the occasion.

The Sopranos cast is pictured at the Mayfair Rocks East Hampton opening, which happened right as the show was making an impression in its first seaon. At left, Levison is pictured with back to camera chatting with Jamie-Lynn Sigler and James Gandolfini's wife Marcy Wudarski (center). Gandolfini is seen at right. Pictured at right are Gandolfini and Wudarski in conversation with Levison's father, Mayfair Rocks CEO Dan Kulchinsky. (Images courtesy of Lauren Kulchinsky Levison)
The Sopranos cast is pictured at the Mayfair Rocks East Hampton opening, which happened right as the show was making an impression in its first seaon. At left, Levison is pictured with back to camera chatting with Jamie-Lynn Sigler and James Gandolfini's wife Marcy Wudarski (center). Gandolfini is seen at right. Pictured at right are Gandolfini and Wudarski in conversation with Levison's father, Mayfair Rocks CEO Dan Kulchinsky. (Images courtesy of Lauren Kulchinsky Levison)

“It wasn’t even the strongest moment of “The Sopranos” heyday yet, only maybe the first 10 episodes maybe had aired,” Levison recalled, “and the whole town of East Hampton was shut down because nobody could get down Main Street; that’s how many people showed up.” 

The legacy of the show is one Levison couldn’t have imagined as she shaped its jewelry narrative, script in hand. 

The best part was, “just being in the presence of these actors, how David Chase put them all together,” she said. 

“I had never read anything like that for TV. I stood in for a boy, that’s how much I wanted to be a part of that show. I would have held a light to be there every day.”
Just as Gandolfini brought Levison to the show, he was also the impetus for her switching gears to the family business full-time. 

“Jim had come to my family’s business [at the old store location in Commack, New York]. It was out of the blue, he just showed up. He bought his engagement ring for [first wife] Marcy from me. He saw the business and saw how I worked with my family. 

“He said to me, ‘I don’t know why you even come to set, you should be a jeweler full time you’re so good at it and your family is so wonderful.’ 

“I started to not do anything but drop the jewelry off, pretty much, and go in for certain, really strong acting scenes, and I started to do jewelry full time. I have Jim to thank, I think.” 

Gandolfini, who died unexpectedly in 2013, was a major influence on Levison. 

“I stopped walking both lines after that [conversation]. I was still dressing the actors for awards and bringing jewelry over but I wasn’t pursuing acting anymore. Jim Gandolfini was one of the greatest people in the entire world and he set the tone for an incredible work environment. He was an amazing guy. 

“I miss Jim a lot.”

Ashley Davisis the senior editor, fashion at National Jeweler, covering all things related to design, style and trends.

The Latest

Jemma Wynne Forme Toggle Necklace
CollectionsJul 25, 2025
Piece of the Week: Jemma Wynne’s ‘Forme’ Necklace

Anne Hathaway was seen wearing the toggle necklace three times while filming scenes for “The Devil Wears Prada 2.”

September Hong Kong jewelry show
Events & AwardsJul 25, 2025
Pre-Registration Open for September Hong Kong Show

Jewellery & Gem World Hong Kong is scheduled for Sept. 15 to 21, and buyer pre-registration will be available until Sept. 7.

Bulgari Celestial Mosaic spinel necklace
FinancialsJul 25, 2025
LVMH Sales Slip in H1 Amid ‘Prevailing Uncertainties’

Renovations at Tiffany & Co. stores ate into profits in the company’s watch and jewelry division.

rio-article photo-diamond.jpg
Brought to you by
Taking the Moment Head On: How Rio Grande Champions the Present & Future of Fine Jewelry

As a leading global jewelry supplier, Rio Grande is rapidly expanding and developing new solutions to meet the needs of jewelers worldwide.

Mark and Candy Udell
Events & AwardsJul 24, 2025
2 Retailers to Receive 2026 Gem Award for Lifetime Achievement

Mark and Candy Udell of London Jewelers will receive the honor at the 24th annual Gem Awards next March.

Weekly QuizJul 25, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
De Beers marine mining vessel the SS Nujoma
SourcingJul 24, 2025
De Beers Sees Diamond Production Sink 36% in Q2

While struggles continue at the mining and trading end of the pipeline, consumer demand for diamond jewelry is holding steady.

Francesca Villa Fantasia Collection The Crab Pendant, The Mermaid Pendant, Keep Dancing Seahorse Pendant, Keep Dancing Ladybug Pendant, Secret Dreams Pendant, The Puffer Fish Takes Flight Pendant
CollectionsJul 24, 2025
Francesca Villa Adds Dimension to Her Intaglio Characters

The “Fantasia” jewelry collection turns the intaglio animals from her “Close Encounters” collection into 3D characters.

an instructor and a student in a bench jewelry classroom
Brought to you by
Investing in the Next Generation of Bench Jewelers

The Seymour & Evelyn Holtzman Bench Scholarship from Jewelers of America returns for a second year.

Breitling’s special Eagles Super Bowl watch on gold bracelet
WatchesJul 24, 2025
Breitling Drops Super Bowl Watch Honoring the Philadelphia Eagles

The special Classic Avi Chronograph 42 with an Eagles-green dial is limited to 59 pieces, a nod to the Super Bowl Philadelphia just won.

Stock image of crime scene tape
CrimeJul 23, 2025
JSA Warns of Violent String of Smash-and-Grabs in California

JSA has received reports of mobs swarming jewelry stores, driving cars into the storefront or smashing through the windows.

Silvia Furmanovich Kasmir Collection Carnelian Bracelet and Sketch
CollectionsJul 23, 2025
Silvia Furmanovich’s ‘Kashmir’ Collection Is a Tribute to Northern India

The “Kashmir” collection features centuries-old craft techniques made in collaboration with the region’s master papier-mâché artisans.

Bench jeweler holding a bracelet and a tool
IndependentsJul 23, 2025
Montreal’s Ecksand Eyes Move to SoHo

Creative Director Erica Bianchini shared why the jeweler is looking to expand into the U.S. and how it’s putting Canadian craftsmanship on the map.

LAFD Fire Station 44 and Fire Station 16
IndependentsJul 23, 2025
IJO Raises Nearly $37K for LA Fire Relief

Two Los Angeles Fire Department stations plan to use the donations to upgrade their equipment and tools.

A Vanitas by Hannah Martin and Guy Berryman Sothebys
CollectionsJul 22, 2025
Jewelry With a Rock ‘n’ Roll Aesthetic Heads to Sotheby’s London

Next week, the auction house will kick off a selling exhibition of jewelry by British artist Hannah Martin and Coldplay’s Guy Berryman.

Cover of the book “Flawless: Inside the Largest Diamond Heist in History”
SourcingJul 22, 2025
Antwerp Diamond Heist Documentary Coming to Netflix

“Stolen: Heist of the Century” is based on “Flawless,” the book about the middle-of-the-night theft, and will debut on Netflix in August.

Emmanuel Raheb
ColumnistsJul 22, 2025
The Gifting Gap: How to Market Jewelry Beyond the Holidays

Emmanuel Raheb shares the top five gifting moments outside of major holidays that jewelers should build marketing campaigns around.

NY Now
Events & AwardsJul 22, 2025
NY Now’s Summer Market Returns in August

The wholesale trade show’s Luxury Lifestyle section will showcase established and emerging jewelry designers.

Jeweler setting a diamond into a ring
MajorsJul 21, 2025
Rio Grande Expands Personalization Offerings

As demand for custom jewelry grows, the company is expanding its services to support retailers.

National Associate of Jewelry Appraisers Logo
Events & AwardsJul 21, 2025
NAJA’s 2025 ‘Ace It’ Conference To Go Virtual

The mid-year conference for jewelry and watch appraisers is slated for Aug. 9 to 10 on Zoom.

Jacquie Aiche graduated turquoise beaded necklace
TrendsJul 21, 2025
Amanda’s Style File: Graduated With Honors

Graduated stones make for elevated tennis-style pieces and dramatic statement necklaces.

24th Gem Awards Show Logo
Events & AwardsJul 21, 2025
Gem Awards Now Accepting Nominations for 2026

Nominations in the categories of Jewelry Design, Media Excellence, and Retail Innovation will be accepted through July 30.

Lewis Heyman
MajorsJul 18, 2025
Lewis Heyman on Sourcing Gemstones, Post-Retirement Plans

He retired last month after 28 years traveling the world to source the very best gemstones for his family’s jewelry business, Oscar Heyman.

CCWW Designs Multiple Shell Charm Necklace
TrendsJul 18, 2025
Piece of the Week: CCWW Designs’ Shell Charm Necklace

The charm necklace features six nautical charms of shells and coral that founder Christina Puchi collected on Florida’s beaches.

The Plumb Club board members
MajorsJul 18, 2025
Plumb Club Elects New Board Members

The organization elected its youngest vice president as it looks to draw in fresh talent.

Jewelry industry veterans Brad Campbell and John Liebler
TechnologyJul 18, 2025
Brad Campbell, John Liebler Join Clientbook’s Executive Team

Campbell joins the company as vice president of business development while Liebler is the new vice president of operations.

Silver, Gold, and Bronze Medals for Italy Olympic Winter Games
CollectionsJul 17, 2025
2026 Winter Olympic Medal Design Symbolizes Unity

The medals feature a split-texture design highlighting the Games’ first time being hosted by two cities and the athletes’ journeys.

vimeo screenshot.png
Supplier BulletinJul 17, 2025
The INSTORE Jewelry Show 2025: Your Holiday Preparations, All Wrapped Up!

Sponsored by The INSTORE Jewelry Show 2025

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy