A pink topaz Belle Époque pendant-brooch and a Victorian Egyptian Revival choker were also highlights at a recent Anderson & Garland sale.
Rocks On: Kunzite
Though it can come in a vivid violet color and is readily available in large pieces, kunzite remains relatively low in demand in the market, keeping it at a more accessible price point.

New York--Kunzite, with its light pink to violet hues, is one of the newer gemstones in terms of the history of colored stones and their use in jewelry.
In the early 1900s, pieces of pink crystal were found in San Diego County and soon identified by Tiffany & Co. mineralogist George Frederick Kunz, for whom the stone was named.
Kunzite has two perfect cleavage directions and is pleochroic, meaning it appears to be different colors depending upon the angle at which it is viewed. Its best color is visible when looking down the length of the crystal--both traits that make cutting the stone more difficult than others gems and which cutters have to keep in mind when they’re faceting kunzite.
Today, the gemstone is found primarily in California, Afghanistan, Brazil and Madagascar, and is one of the few gems that is available in fairly large sizes for an affordable price.
Kunzite demand
Despite its vivid pink hues, demand for kunzite remains relatively low compared with most other gems.
“Kunzite is never really ‘hot’ like tourmaline or fine aquamarine,” said Paul-Otto Caesar of gemstone wholesaler Oberon & Caswell, noting that he thinks many people still associate it with the cheaper material that used to be on the market and faded from dark purple to white in a short amount of time.
It’s also important that rough continue to come through for them consistently, as people lose interest if the production is so small it becomes a collector’s stone. “We need to be able to cut pairs and sets in great color to keep our clients interested,” Caesar said.
Oberon & Caswell started cutting kunzite in a new way--a vintage cut that has been very well received, offering a new look for the stone. Even with these cuts offering a unique new look for the stone, Caesar said that he doesn’t expect much of a change in kunzite demand in the future, especially as the stone hasn’t yet had a significant marketing push behind it like other stones.
“Production was … never very big, and the market stayed healthy and balanced. I think we’ll keep paddling along without major changes (to demand).”
Tom Ross of The Ross Jewelry Company mirrored this thought, noting again that it is not a commonly requested stone, so “unless something happens in the fashion world to make it more popular or a celebrity starts wearing it, I don’t expect much change in demand.”
Supply, pricing stable
Kunzite
However Caesar said that they generally try to use rough from Nigeria, which has always been hard to find but has dwindled to almost nothing in the last six months, and that fine rough from Afghanistan also is more difficult to find these days.
Yet there still remains ample material coming from other sources. Ross said that he hasn’t had an issue with availability--since kunzite is not often requested, when someone does contact him about it they usually have something specific in mind when it comes to size and shape and he usually can find something very close to what they want, if not exactly.
Prices remain fairly consistent and, as with any stone, the richer the color and the more attractive the cut is, the higher the price per carat.
Caesar said that lately, he’s seen prices go up slightly, but noted that because kunzite is difficult to cut and demand remains relatively low, there haven’t been too many people looking to buy kunzite so prices have remained relatively reasonable.
Design trends
The pastel purple-pink hues of kunzite go well with Pantone’s Rose Quartz color of the year, which could prove to be a boon for the stone this year. Its coloring also is aligned with the overall pastel trends that are expected to pop up all over the market in 2016.
Designer Margery Hirschey said that she’s had a very good response to her pieces that feature kunzite, with many women drawn to the soft pink color and its accessible price point. Even so, the stone isn’t well known in the general public, she added.
Though Hirschey said though it isn’t a particularly trendy gemstone, she will continue to use kunzite both alone and in combination with other stones, particularly diamonds, to set it off.
“I love the color of kunzite and the fact that it has a lot of sparkle,” she said. “I think the soft pink is so beautiful, and it does have variations in color, which I like. Also, kunzite is a heavy stone, and I like that it feels like it has substance to it.”
She added that she’s never broken or chipped a kunzite; it’s an easy stone to work with because of its relative hardness.
As primarily a custom jewelry designer who promotes kunzite, Ross said that he finds that the client who requests kunzite is typically more educated, sophisticated and tends to know exactly what they want when it comes to design.
As with most colored gems, halos are popular because they frame the stone and emphasize color, but designs for kunzite continue to be widely varied, he said.
Caesar said that connoisseurs appreciate kunzite, especially when it comes to the unusual cuts and shapes, and he believes that he could sell more of this material if more rough was available.
Hirschey, too, said she prefers the more unusual kunzite stones, such as the rutilated material or with irregular cuts. “I think once people become more familiar with kunzite, both as a designer and as a consumer, the more they will be drawn to it.”
The Latest

The charm is a celebration of springtime as April showers bring May flowers with the piece’s cluster of diamond raindrops.

The National Retail Federation expects retail sales growth to return to pre-pandemic levels as consumers continue to face inflation.

Bench jewelers spend years honing their skills, Jewelers of America’s Certification validates their talents.

The 4-carat, old mine brilliant-cut diamond engagement ring was co-designed by Willis and New York City-based brand Karina Noel.


The multisensory experience, open April 8-13, will feature the brand’s silver creations among dream-like scenes of natural landscapes.

The virtual event will take place April 7 at 3 p.m.

Natural diamonds mean more than lab-grown, but when every cut is ideal, they all look the same. Customers want more—Facets of Fire delivers.

The pieces in “Animali Tarallo” portray animals from stingrays to elephants through portraits and interpretations of their patterns.

Parent company Saks Global said the iconic location will be open through the holiday season as it decides what to do with the space.

Ronald Winston, son of Harry Winston, donated the diamonds to the Smithsonian National Museum of Natural History in Washington, D.C.

The educational event will take place in Charlotte, North Carolina, this May.

The independent jeweler first opened its doors in 1888.

The layoffs come amid the TV shopping channel’s efforts to restructure and focus on live shopping through social media.

The debut event will take place in Miami’s Coconut Grove neighborhood this fall.

The roundtable will take place May 17 ahead of the trade show’s welcome dinner.

The “Peanuts x Monica Rich Kosann” collection features the comic strip’s classic vocabulary across 10 bracelet designs.

Three industry experts dive into the complexities of the material often marketed as an “ethical” alternative for metal in jewelry.

Diamonds are not only one of the most prominent gemstones, but the birthstone for those born in April.

The Utah-based company known for making wedding bands has acquired Doubloon Golf.

The longtime luxury executive led one of LVMH’s watch brands, TAG Heuer, for 12 years before taking over Bulgari in 2013.

Authorities said the robbers fled with jewelry and 70 Rolex watches, later taking pictures of themselves posing with big stacks of cash.

Lotus Gemology founder Richard W. Hughes has translated Heinrich Fischer’s 1880 book “Nephrit und Jadeit” from its original German.

The ring's design features contrasting lines influenced by work from architecture-inspired photographer Nikola Olic.

The Conference Board’s index fell as consumers continued to worry about the impact of tariffs, the labor market, and the price of eggs.

However, two medieval jewels surpassed estimates at Noonans Mayfair’s recent jewelry auction in London.

The Oscar-nominated actor debuted in the campaign for the new “Top Time B31” collection, which introduced Breitling’s Caliber B31.