In a market defined by more selective consumers, Sherry Smith shares why execution will be independent jewelers’ key to growth this year.
De Beers’ melee screener to go in Antwerp lab
De Beers is now in the manufacturing stage with its melee screener and will lease it to interested sightholders in the second quarter before placing the device in a grading and research facility it operates in Antwerp, making it open to the trade more generally.

London--De Beers is now in the manufacturing stage with its melee screener and will lease it to interested sightholders in the second quarter before placing the device in a grading and research facility it operates in Antwerp, making it open to the trade more generally.
The machine, officially dubbed the Automated Melee Screening Device, or AMS, screens near-colorless or colorless diamonds as small as one point and up to 0.20 carats to determine if they are natural, De Beers said.
Unlike the screening device for synthetic and high-pressure, high-temperature- (HPHT) treated diamonds introduced this week by the Gemological Institute of America that tests one stone at a time, De Beers’ device can take up to 500 carats of melee at once and automatically feeds the stones, table-down, into a measurement station.
Following testing, the diamonds are automatically dispensed into one of five bins:
-- Pass: The stone is not a synthetic or a simulant. Trials have indicated pass rates of 95 to 99 percent for natural melee;
-- Refer: A rare result, this indicates that more testing is needed;
-- Refer Type II: The stone has a low concentration of nitrogen and further testing is required, as it may be synthetic;
-- Non-diamond: The stone is a simulant or synthetic; and
-- Purge: This bin is for when the user needs to empty out the machine because, for example, they placed the wrong packet of diamonds into the device.
Because the machine feeds and sorts stones automatically it can be left unattended, and one person can operate multiple machines at a time.
However, unlike the GIA, De Beers won’t be leasing its device at no cost in exchange for data, or selling it to the general trade, at least not right now.
De Beers said it will offer three-year leases on the device, which was developed by De Beers Technologies UK, to sightholders through the International Institute of Diamond Grading & Research (IIDGR) in Antwerp for $25,000 a year. De Beers declined to say which sightholders would be leasing the machines.
Founded in 2008, the IIDGR is part of the De Beers Group of Companies and is a grading and research center that offers a range of diamond grading services and specializes in developing verification instruments.
In addition to leasing the machines to sightholders, De Beers will install multiple melee screening devices at the IIDGR later
When asked if De Beers plans to sell the device to the trade, a spokeswoman for the diamond miner and marketer said the “initial plan” is to lease the device to sightholders, which are the “current priority at the moment.”
De Beers tested the device last year in a pilot program at the IIDGR. A number of the devices also were deployed to diamond centers worldwide, to measure the impact of different environmental conditions on the machine’s performance, De Beers said.
After receiving what it describes as “strong expressions of interest from many sightholders,” De Beers opted to begin manufacturing the melee screener.
De Beers’ release of information about its automated melee screener comes on the heels of the GIA’s official announcement on Monday that it had developed the DiamondCheck, a screening device for the detection of lab-grown as well as HPHT-treated diamonds as small as one point in size.
The GIA is leasing the machines to diamond bourses around the world at no cost in exchange for data about the stones that get screened. Through GIA Instruments, it is also selling the DiamondCheck to the wider trade for $23,900.
The bourses currently slated to receive a DiamondCheck are in New York, Mumbai, Dubai, South Africa, Hong Kong, Tokyo, Shanghai and Tel Aviv.
Absent from this initial list is the bourse in Antwerp, one of the world’s main trading hubs, though the GIA said Antwerp, along with other diamond centers, likely will receive a DiamondCheck later in the first quarter.
The Latest

The family-owned jeweler’s new space is in a former wholesale produce market.

Ivel Sanchez Rivera, 52, has been arrested and charged in connection with the armed robbery of Tio Jewelers in Cape Coral, Florida.

Criminals are using cell jammers to disable alarms, but new technology like JamAlert™ can stop them.

The supplier’s online program allows customers to search and buy calibrated natural and lab-grown diamond melee, including in fancy shapes.


The new show will take place Jan. 23-25, 2026.

Associate Editor Natalie Francisco highlights her favorite jewelry moments from the Golden Globes, and they are (mostly) white hot.

How Jewelers of America’s 20 Under 40 are leading to ensure a brighter future for the jewelry industry.

The store closures are part of the retailer’s “Bold New Chapter” turnaround plan.

Through EventGuard, the company will offer event liability and cancellation insurance, including wedding coverage.

Chris Blakeslee has experience at Athleta and Alo Yoga. Kendra Scott will remain on board as executive chair and chief visionary officer.

The credit card companies’ surveys examined where consumers shopped, what they bought, and what they valued this holiday season.

Kimberly Miller has been promoted to the role.

The “Serenity” charm set with 13 opals is a modern amulet offering protection, guidance, and intention, the brand said.

“Bridgerton” actresses Hannah Dodd and Claudia Jessie star in the brand’s “Rules to Love By” campaign.

Founded by jeweler and sculptor Ana Khouri, the brand is “expanding the boundaries of what high jewelry can be.”

The jewelry manufacturer and supplier is going with a fiery shade it says symbolizes power and transformation.

The singer-songwriter will make her debut as the French luxury brand’s new ambassador in a campaign for its “Coco Crush” jewelry line.

The nonprofit’s new president and CEO, Annie Doresca, also began her role this month.

As the shopping mall model evolves and online retail grows, Smith shares his predictions for the future of physical stores.

The trade show is slated for Jan. 31-Feb. 2 at The Lighthouse in New York City's Chelsea neighborhood.

January’s birthstone comes in a rainbow of colors, from the traditional red to orange, purple, and green.

The annual report highlights how it supported communities in areas where natural diamonds are mined, crafted, and sold.

Footage of a fight breaking out in the NYC Diamond District was viewed millions of times on Instagram and Facebook.

The supplier has a curated list of must-have tools for jewelers doing in-house custom work this year.

The Signet Jewelers-owned store, which turned 100 last year, calls its new concept stores “The Edit.”

Linda Coutu is rejoining the precious metals provider as its director of sales.























