Editors

Lab-grown diamonds: A consumer’s perspective

EditorsJul 09, 2014

Lab-grown diamonds: A consumer’s perspective

It’s been a rough (no diamond pun intended) past couple of weeks for two of the industry’s largest producers of lab-grown diamonds.



It’s been a rough (no diamond pun intended) past couple of weeks for two of the industry’s largest producers of lab-grown, or synthetic, diamonds.

The board of Scio (formerly Boston-based Apollo) in Greenville, S.C. got what they wanted, forcing out interim CEO Gerald McGuire just a week after he took office, along with board members Edward Adams, Robert Linares (who is Adams’ father-in-law and the founder of Apollo), and Theodorus Strous. Scio shareholders had been advocating for change for months, pointing out that the company isn’t making any money.

Gemesis also announced major changes, hiring new CEO Lisa Bissell, who spent 20 years with diamond wholesaler M. Fabrikant & Sons, and changing its name to Pure Grown Diamonds. According to Gemesis, they brought Bissell on board to promote transparency within the lab-grown diamond industry, which is badly needed. Her appointment is part of the company’s vision to “set new benchmarks for the grown diamond industry,” Gemesis said.

These changes are, to me, a sign that these two companies are having trouble forging their identities, getting a foothold in the consumer market and, at the end of the day, making sales.

But why? What is the trouble with this product that, according to some sources, was poised to bring down the entire mined diamond industry in just a few short years?

To find the answer to this, I chose not to call jewelers but instead to go straight to the source: consumers. What do the people on whom the industry depends to buy diamonds think of lab-grown stones? Would they buy them?

Here’s what I found out in conducting this (very informal) poll.

1. “Lab-grown diamonds are a thing?” In conducting my (again, very informal) research, what became quickly apparent is that many people don’t know diamonds can be grown in a laboratory. “As a 27-year-old, my friends and family members are getting engaged at a rapid rate,” one respondent wrote. “I don’t have a single friend who has a lab-grown diamond engagement ring, nor have I ever spoken with someone … who has wanted one. Honestly, I don’t think many consumers are aware of them, especially men.”

If they are aware that lab-grown diamonds exist, they don’t understand the difference between a lab-grown stone, which is an actual diamond with the same optical, physical and chemical properties as the stones that grow naturally underground, and what we
in the trade would refer to as a simulant: a stone that is made to look like, to simulate, a diamond but has a different chemical composition. The most common diamond simulant is cubic zirconia, or CZ.

Three of the people I polled mentioned CZ in the same sentence as lab-grown diamonds, not aware that there’s a difference. “Is this not the same thing as a cubic zirconia?” one respondent asked, while another wrote, “I do know about them (lab-grown diamonds) although I am not sure where they end and cubic zirconia/Swarovski crystal begins.”

2. Though there’s a lack of awareness, the stones aren’t a complete turnoff. Despite the lack of education on the existence and exact composition of lab-grown diamonds, I would characterize the overall reaction toward the stones as positive.

This is mainly due to the ethical aspect of lab-grown diamonds and, unfortunately, the perceived lack of ethics and human rights issues many think are inherent in the mining of natural diamonds.

It should be no surprise to anyone that today’s consumers are concerned about the origin of the products they buy; this has been stated time and time again in the seemingly endless number of surveys conducted about the Millennial generation. It is a trait that, in my opinion, is exhibited by members of Gen X as well.

One of my respondents, a self-proclaimed “diamond illiterate,” had no idea that lab-grown diamonds even existed until I asked her about them. But she was thrilled to learn about the stones; just look how many exclamation points she used in her response: “I had NO idea that diamonds could be lab-grown! I would absolutely be open to a lab-grown diamond, even over an ethically sourced (mined) one. I think it completely changes decisions and conversations!”

Another respondent who went with a mined diamond for her engagement ring--she liked the symbolism of something that had been forged over time under heat and pressure marking her union--said she’d be open to buying lab-grown diamond jewelry in the future.

In her response, she exhibited another trait apparent throughout the Millennials and the younger members of Gen X: They have no desire to “keep up with the Joneses.”

“I don’t feel I’ve anything to prove to anyone so I am not concerned about if what I’m wearing is ‘real’ or not. I’m more interested in the aesthetics (and ethics) of my jewelry,” she wrote.

3. They don’t like the term ‘lab-grown.’ One very interesting point that came up in my (again, very informal) poll is that the term “lab-grown” does not have widespread consumer appeal.

A few of my respondents thought the product could use a marketing overhaul and, apparently, so did Gemesis, which, as noted above, is now calling itself Pure Grown Diamonds and states on its website that, “All diamonds from Pure Grown Diamonds are lab-created, guaranteeing a socially and ecologically responsible point of origin.”

“They need to come up with another name other than lab-grown diamond,” one of my respondents wrote. “It’s brilliant how some bag-makers call their bags ‘vegan’ purses for their synthetic leather bags. I admit I feel better about myself when I purchase a ‘vegan’ purse.  I think the same could be done for the lab-grown diamond market.”

Another said, “’Grown’ in particular sounds weird … you’re losing the symbolism of something valueless and common being turned into something beautiful and rare(er) thanks to pressure and time. You have to compensate for that somehow.”

While having a “vegan” equivalent for lab-grown diamonds appeals to consumers, the industry is bound by Federal Trade Commission rules, which dictates that the term “laboratory-created,” “laboratory-grown,” or “(manufacturer name)-created,” precede the word diamond when describing a stone that was grown in a laboratory.

These FTC guidelines are jewelry-industry inside baseball, so to speak, and would not be something the people I polled would know about in commenting on lab-grown diamonds. But, overall, I do think their answers give interesting insight into consumers’ perspective on lab-grown diamonds.

Retailers, what do you think? Do the above thoughts align with your customers’ thoughts and feelings on lab-grown diamonds?
Michelle Graffis the editor-in-chief at National Jeweler, directing the publication’s coverage both online and in print.

The Latest

Dan and Hope Wixon with dog
IndependentsMar 06, 2025
Wixon Jewelers to Close After 37 Years

First-generation jewelers Dan and Hope Wixon are retiring and will close their Minneapolis-area jewelry store in May.

3.1 Phillip Lim x Guzema Snake necklaces and bracelets
CollectionsMar 06, 2025
Guzema, 3.1 Phillip Lim Collab on New ‘Snake’ Designs

The limited-edition collection, a nod to the Year of the Snake, is Ukrainian brand Guzema’s first partnership with a U.S. brand.

Stephen Barnes
IndependentsMar 06, 2025
Stephen Barnes Is the New Owner of IJO

After more than 50 years, Jeff Roberts is handing over ownership of the organization to IJO President Stephen Barnes.

ja-btyb-topimage.png
Brought to you by
Have a Plan for Emergencies

Emergencies can happen anytime, anywhere , and Jewelers of America has what you need to be prepared for it all.

Borsheims Senior Jeweler Jay Wolff
Events & AwardsMar 06, 2025
Borsheims’ ‘Ike-It’ Award Goes to Jeweler

Senior Jeweler Jay Wolff was named employee of the year.

Weekly QuizMar 06, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Neiman Marcus Downtown Dallas flagship
MajorsMar 05, 2025
Neiman Marcus’ Dallas Flagship Store to Close, Confirms Saks Global

The 111-year-old store will close following a dispute among Saks Global, a landlord, and the City of Dallas over a small piece of land.

Rolex “Starship Gold” circa 1980 alien watch
AuctionsMar 05, 2025
Sotheby's To Auction 51 ‘Alien’ Watches

The upcoming “Area_51” watch sale is a collaboration with heist-out, featuring vintage and modern timepieces with futuristic designs.

national-jeweler_top-image_2.png
Brought to you by
A Diamond ETF is the Way to Reinvigorate Natural Diamond Sales

The jewelry industry faces challenges from lab-grown diamonds. A diamond ETF can restore natural diamonds' value and drive investor demand.

Jewelers of America logo
MajorsMar 05, 2025
Jewelers of America Unveils 3-Year Strategic Plan

The trade organization, which will mark 120 years of service next year, has a refined focus and a new mission statement.

92NY Building
Events & AwardsMar 05, 2025
92NY Accepting 2025 Jewelry Artist Residency Applications

The application period is now open for established and emerging jewelers and metalsmiths to apply to the month-long residency program.

Nethaniel Fuimaono, Sonny Fuimaono, Aaron Fuimaono, Hanson Dang mug shots
CrimeMar 04, 2025
4 Suspects Arrested in Fatal Armed Robbery of California Jewelry Store

Uc Thí Vo, who co-owned Kim Tin Jewelry in Sacramento with her husband of 40 years, was killed during the November 2024 robbery.

Stock image of a gavel
CrimeMar 04, 2025
NYC Diamond Dealer Pleads Guilty to Lab-Grown Diamond Swaps

Manashe Sezanayev pleaded guilty to grand larceny and is expected to receive five years’ probation when he’s sentenced in May.

For Future Reference Vintage 1940s Necklace
TrendsMar 04, 2025
Amanda’s Style File: Peaceful and Powerful Aquamarine

The March birthstone pairs perfectly with hues of Mocha Mousse, Pantone’s Color of the Year for 2025.

Smart Age Solutions CEO Emmanuel Raheb
ColumnistsMar 04, 2025
The Smart Lab: Using Online Events to Supercharge Sales

Emmanuel Raheb shares strategies to prepare for, publicize, and engage the audience during events on platforms like TikTok and Zoom.

Polished diamonds
Policies & IssuesMar 03, 2025
Customs Indefinitely Postpones Requirement to Disclose Country of Mining

Originally slated to take effect in April, official U.S. Customs and Border Protection documents now show the implementation date as “TBD.”

Woman pushing a shopping cart
SurveysMar 03, 2025
Consumer Confidence Fell in February Amid Concerns About the Future

The recent jump in the prices of household staples, like eggs, and the potential impact of tariffs worried consumers.

AGA Gemological Education Scholarship Program Graphic
Events & AwardsMar 03, 2025
AGA Now Accepting Applications for Its Gemological Education Scholarship

The application period for the program is now open for aspiring gemologists around the world.

Porcupine Quilled 3-Band Earrings
CollectionsFeb 28, 2025
Piece of the Week: Ironhorse Quillwork Earrings

The work of Indigenous designer Joe Big Mountain, these earrings are similar to the pair Lily Gladstone just wore to the SAG Awards.

Memorial ring for Sir Richard Rainsford
AuctionsFeb 28, 2025
300-Year-Old Ring With Ties to Witch Trial Judge Up for Auction

A metal detectorist uncovered the ring created in memory of Sir Richard Rainsford, who presided over some of England’s last witch trials.

20250228_MNQ 2025 Jewelry Trends Forecast.jpg
Recorded WebinarsFeb 28, 2025
Watch: 2025 Jewelry Trends Forecast

Fine jewelry consultant and publicist Francesca Simons joins Amanda Gizzi and Natalie Francisco to discuss the trends set to rise this year.

Winnie Harlow, Kyle Kuzma, Stephanie Gottlieb Fine Jewelry Engagement Ring
TrendsFeb 27, 2025
Model Winnie Harlow Says ‘Yes’ to 3-Stone Engagement Ring

Harlow’s partner, NBA player Kyle Kuzma, worked with Vobara to design the ring, which features oval and pear-shaped diamonds.

Winona Ryder Iman Pandora Campaign
MajorsFeb 27, 2025
Winona Ryder, Iman Star in New Pandora Campaign

The Danish jeweler released the next chapter of its “Be Love” campaign, which celebrates love in all its forms.

Gemfields higher quality emerald auction
SourcingFeb 27, 2025
Gemfields Holds Mini Auction for Higher-Quality Emeralds

The 13 lots on offer were comprised of material that previously went unsold at the miner’s November auction.

JA Learning Workshop logo
Events & AwardsFeb 27, 2025
JA to Host Workshop During Alabama Jewelers Association Convention

The learning workshop and the convention are both scheduled to take place April 26 and 27 in Montgomery, Alabama.

European Union flags
Policies & IssuesFeb 26, 2025
EU Once Again Pushes Back Deadline on Diamond Traceability

The EU, like the U.S., also now will require diamond importers to provide information about where exactly the diamonds were mined.

De Beers CEO Al Cook, Botswana Minster of Minerals and Energy Bogolo Joy Kenewendo
SourcingFeb 26, 2025
De Beers, Botswana Make New Diamond Sales Deal Official

The formal signing of the agreement comes nearly two years after De Beers and Botswana initially announced they had reached a new deal.

Alexander Lacik and Beth Gerstein
Events & AwardsFeb 26, 2025
JFC Names 2025 ‘Facets’ Honorees

The charity will celebrate Pandora CEO Alexander Lacik and Brilliant Earth CEO Beth Gerstein at its annual event in Las Vegas.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy