IndependentsSep 29, 2025
Nina Pugliese, Longtime Henne Jewelers Employee, Dies at 65She was remembered as a creative and generous woman of faith, who also had a sweet tooth.
EditorsSep 17, 2018
Is De Beers’ Lab-Grown Line a Fit for Signet?
Signet CEO Gina Drosos recently indicated the retailer would be open to carrying fashion jewelry set with man-made stones. Will Lightbox be the line for them?
A sampling of jewelry from Lightbox, De Beers’ line of fashion jewelry set with man-made diamonds. There is speculation in the market that Signet Jewelers, owner of Kay, Jared and Zales stores, might be in line to carry the collection.
Signet Jewelers CEO Gina Drosos made an intriguing statement toward the end of the company’s second quarter earnings call last month in response to a question from Needham & Co. analyst Rick Patel.
Patel noted that Signet is carrying an increasing number of pieces of jewelry set with lab-grown sapphires and rubies, and he asked if the retailer had plans to expand into man-made diamonds.
Signet, as has been well documented, has chosen not to carry any lab-grown diamond jewelry up until this point, even as more and more jewelry retailers—Helzberg, Reeds, Robbins Brothers, Borsheims and Amazon among them—have gotten on board with the category.
On the August earnings call, however, the retail CEO suggested that Signet might be open to man-made diamonds as long as they are not set in engagement rings.
I paraphrased Drosos’ words in my story reporting on Signet’s second quarter results. Below is her full statement, as included in the official transcript of the call.
“We have a very ‘customer first’ mindset on [lab-grown diamonds]. And we want to focus on delivering the products and experiences that customers want. So we are very closely monitoring and assessing the demand for this emerging category. What our research shows is that customers prefer natural diamonds for those really important purchases, bridal purchase, special birthday, graduations, those kinds of things. But there could be some growing interest in the fashion jewelry space for synthetic diamonds. So we’ll make sure that Signet is well positioned to participate in that space if the growth and the economics of it are attractive and if customers point us in that direction.”Drosos’ comments shook me out of my early-morning earnings call coma and immediately brought to mind another company’s stance on lab-grown diamonds: De Beers.
As I’m sure you have not forgotten, earlier this
year De Beers announced it would begin selling a line of fashion jewelry set with man-made pink, blue and white diamonds, online direct to consumers at first and then in select stores.
The company’s approach toward the line is to sell man-made stones cheap and market them for special but not-too-special occasions, keeping consumers focused on mined diamonds for their engagement rings and major anniversaries. They are, as one De Beers executive put it a Las Vegas lunch event introducing the line, for “friends, not fiancées.”
So it would seem that Drosos and De Beers have the same stance on where lab-grown diamonds belong on the consumer end of the market. And the two companies are already fairly closely aligned. The jeweler has been a De Beers sightholder since 2014, and it cuts and polishes its diamonds in one of the African countries where De Beers mines.
Signet was the first retailer tapped to participate in Tracr, De Beers’ blockchain program. It also is worth mentioning that Signet has a new concept store opening this fall, a millennial- and tech-focused store that will operate under the James Allen banner (and might be in line for fresh product that’s not carried in any other Signet stores.)
A line like Lightbox would also gel with Drosos’ long-term vision for the retailer, which includes stocking more fashion jewelry that appeals to women who are buying for themselves and, as she noted in her speech at JCK Las Vegas, “put[ting] jewelry at the forefront of our customers’ minds for many more occasions,” meaning birthdays and graduations, not just engagements.
A week after Signet announced its second quarter results and Drosos made her remarks about lab-grown diamonds, Rapaport’s website, Diamonds.net, ran a short news item that stated there is “growing speculation” that Signet might carry Lightbox.
For now, however, both parties are neither denying nor confirming the rumors.
De Beers, which is set to start selling Lightbox online later this month, said it hasn’t selected the retailers that will carry its lab-grown line yet, while Signet gave a classic corporate response when asked about Lightbox: “It’s our policy not to comment on market speculation.”
The company’s approach toward the line is to sell man-made stones cheap and market them for special but not-too-special occasions, keeping consumers focused on mined diamonds for their engagement rings and major anniversaries. They are, as one De Beers executive put it a Las Vegas lunch event introducing the line, for “friends, not fiancées.”
So it would seem that Drosos and De Beers have the same stance on where lab-grown diamonds belong on the consumer end of the market. And the two companies are already fairly closely aligned. The jeweler has been a De Beers sightholder since 2014, and it cuts and polishes its diamonds in one of the African countries where De Beers mines.
Signet was the first retailer tapped to participate in Tracr, De Beers’ blockchain program. It also is worth mentioning that Signet has a new concept store opening this fall, a millennial- and tech-focused store that will operate under the James Allen banner (and might be in line for fresh product that’s not carried in any other Signet stores.)
A line like Lightbox would also gel with Drosos’ long-term vision for the retailer, which includes stocking more fashion jewelry that appeals to women who are buying for themselves and, as she noted in her speech at JCK Las Vegas, “put[ting] jewelry at the forefront of our customers’ minds for many more occasions,” meaning birthdays and graduations, not just engagements.
A week after Signet announced its second quarter results and Drosos made her remarks about lab-grown diamonds, Rapaport’s website, Diamonds.net, ran a short news item that stated there is “growing speculation” that Signet might carry Lightbox.
For now, however, both parties are neither denying nor confirming the rumors.
De Beers, which is set to start selling Lightbox online later this month, said it hasn’t selected the retailers that will carry its lab-grown line yet, while Signet gave a classic corporate response when asked about Lightbox: “It’s our policy not to comment on market speculation.”
More on Editors
The Latest
MajorsSep 29, 2025
Overnight Releases New Bridal CatalogThe “Volume 7” bridal catalog features best-selling engagement rings, trending styles, and a new section highlighting anniversary bands.
IndependentsSep 29, 2025
Mark Henry Jewelry to Debut in CanadaThe New York-based brand is set to launch a limited-time offering for the holiday season at Holt Renfrew in Toronto.
TrendsSep 29, 2025
Amanda’s Style File: Ear FocusMove over neck mess, the ear story is the way to make a layering statement today.
Weekly QuizSep 25, 2025
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
SurveysSep 26, 2025
Online Shopping, Influencers to Drive Holiday Spending, Mastercard SaysHoliday sales growth is expected to slow as consumers grapple with inflation and tariff-related uncertainty.
Events & AwardsSep 26, 2025
Winners of Austin Jewelry Design Contest Announced Jamie Turner Designs is among the winners of the local “Austin Shines” contest, hosted by Eliza Page, a jewelry store in Austin, Texas.
Brought to you by
reDollar.com Is Rolling Out the Next Level Jewelry, Diamond & Watch Consignment ProgramWith their unmatched services and low fees, reDollar.com is challenging some big names in the online consignment world.
TrendsSep 26, 2025
Piece of the Week: Kwit Jewelry’s Square Signet Pinky RingThe red and azure colorway is one of many fun enamel pairings offered, bringing whimsy to the classic style of a monogramed signet ring.
Policies & IssuesSep 25, 2025
JA CEO Provides Tariff Update Following Annual Fly-InA trade deal with Switzerland seems probable, but reaching an agreement with India remains a challenge, David Bonaparte said.
SourcingSep 25, 2025
2 African Countries Aim to Take Stake in De Beers Botswana’s president said his country wants a controlling share, while Angola envisions multiple countries holding minority stakes.
Lab-GrownSep 25, 2025
Kira Jewels Expands Lab-Grown Diamond ProductionThe manufacturer is adding 1,400 chemical vapor deposition (CVD) reactors to its growing facility in India.
IndependentsSep 25, 2025
Alex Moss’ New Flagship Brings Bold Jewels to SoHoThe jeweler to the stars has worked with Drake, A$AP Rocky, Tyler the Creator, and other celebrities.
WatchesSep 25, 2025
Wilson & Son Jewelers Donates to the Horological Society of New YorkThe Scarsdale, New York-based jeweler donated a professional-grade watch cleaning machine.
Policies & IssuesSep 24, 2025
Tariffs Throw Diamond Trade Into DisarrayThe 50 percent tariffs on diamonds shipped from India to the U.S. have pushed midstream manufacturers to the edge.
SourcingSep 24, 2025
De Beers Adopts New Strategies to Drive Natural Diamond Demand in IndiaDe Beers’ refreshed, multipronged approach, which includes generic promotions and retail partnerships, is delivering positive dividends.
Policies & IssuesSep 24, 2025
For Jewelry Manufacturers, Higher Tariffs Create Long-Term WorriesThey are trying to balance the need to sustain well-established relationships with the pressure higher tariffs have put on margins.
SourcingSep 24, 2025
A Helping Hand: An Effort to Boost Inclusivity in the IndustryJewelry manufacturer Jewelex has partnered with JOSH, an industry training center, on a program for people with disabilities.
CollectionsSep 24, 2025
Greenwich St. Jewelers Goes Back in Time With First Estate CollectionThe collection includes pieces dating back to the Victorian and Art Deco periods as well as mid-century and late 20th-century designs.
Policies & IssuesSep 24, 2025
Diamonds Do Good Names Marcus ter Haar as President-ElectHe previously served as co-chair of the nonprofit’s beneficiary committee.
CollectionsSep 24, 2025
Brilliant Earth’s New Jane Goodall Collection Calls for PeaceIts second collaboration with the conservationist features jewelry with dove and olive branch motifs.
SourcingSep 24, 2025
SRK Launches Kriam PharmaThe diamond manufacturer’s new company will provide accessible and affordable high-quality medicines across India.
ColumnistsSep 23, 2025
Quiet Luxury: What Fall’s Top Trend Means for JewelersEmmanuel Raheb shares tips on how a jeweler’s showcases, marketing, and social media presence can whisper, instead of shout.
MajorsSep 23, 2025
Ames Watson Completes $140M Acquisition of Claire’sThe private equity firm has a plan to revive the mall staple.
SourcingSep 23, 2025
Super Smalls’ New Book Introduces Kids to Gems, Fine JewelryThe “Super Book of Gems” dives into the Mohs Hardness Scale, the Four C’s, and designs from jewelers like Cartier and Bulgari.
MajorsSep 23, 2025
Mattioli Names Kering Exec as New CEOClaudio Pasta will take the lead at the Italian fine jewelry brand, succeeding company founder Licia Mattioli.
CollectionsSep 23, 2025
Monique Lhuillier Adds Fashion Jewelry to Kay Jewelers LineThe new lab-grown diamond jewelry offering is the latest expansion of the designer’s “Bliss” collection.
