Recorded WebinarsSep 29, 2023
The Lab-Grown Diamond Market: Where Are We Now?Watch as Edahn Golan, Sherry Smith and Avi Levy join Michelle Graff to talk pricing and trends in this controversial corner of the market.
TrendsFeb 10, 2016
The History Behind … Posy rings
In the latest installment of The History Behind, National Jeweler explores the origin of posy rings, one of the first examples of personalized jewelry.
New York--Long before today’s couples were engraving their wedding bands with initials or dates, lovers of old were swapping secret messages and vowing their lifelong commitment on posy rings.
Also spelled posie or poesy, these rings derived their name from the French word “poésie,” or poem, because of the short sayings with which they were engraved that were religious, friendly or amorous in nature.
Also spelled posie or poesy, these rings derived their name from the French word “poésie,” or poem, because of the short sayings with which they were engraved that were religious, friendly or amorous in nature.
While there are not a great number of jewelry designers using the word “posy” in connection with new collections today, the desire for jewelry engraved with personalized messages has never faded.
Part of the collection of the Victoria & Albert Museum in London, this circa 1300 gold posy ring is inscribed in Lombardic capitals, “Well for him who knows whom he can trust.” (Photo credit: © Victoria and Albert Museum, London)
“It’s continued down through history,” observed Mary Borchert, a historian with Antique Jewelry University. “Nowadays, we don’t call it a posy ring but we technically could because it has the inscription inside.”
National Jeweler dug into the online archives of the Victoria & Albert Museum in London, which houses what is arguably the largest collection of posy rings in the world, and spoke with one modern-day jewelry designer inspired by the poesies of old for this latest installment of The History Behind.
What are posy rings and when were they worn?
According to the Victoria & Albert Museum, posy rings were popular from the latter half of the Middle Ages, which extended from the 5th to 15th century.
According to the Victoria & Albert Museum, posy rings were popular from the latter half of the Middle Ages, which extended from the 5th to 15th century.
In medieval times, when religion was very much a part of everyday life, it was common for saints’ figures or religious text to appear on the rings alongside romantic expressions or even expressions of friendship. In this way, the rings functioned both as a religious talisman and a gift of love.
Jewelry designer Monica Rich Kosann, who recently launched a line of posy-ring inspired jewelry, said posy rings also were exchanged between kingdoms and religious houses as a show of support.
According to the Victoria & Albert, posy rings from Medieval period mostly have the words engraved around the outside of the band, while in later examples the lettering is found inside.
What were some of the most common inscriptions?
Like much personalized jewelry today, the posy ring provided the wearer the chance to don something completely different than what their neighbor had. They could dictate a saying that was personal to them and the person with whom they were exchanging the ring.
Like much personalized jewelry today, the posy ring provided the wearer the chance to don something completely different than what their neighbor had. They could dictate a saying that was personal to them and the person with whom they were exchanging the ring.
The Victoria & Albert Museum also noted, however, that certain inscriptions appear on multiple rings, indicating the goldsmiths of the day had a book of stock phrases from which clients could choose.
Borchert said George Kunz’s 1917 book, Rings for the Finger, contains a list of posy rings phrases, including “Joy without end” and “Let liking last.”
The phrases were written in Latin, Old French or Old English. Until about 1350, the lettering was done in a script with rounded capital letters known as Lombardic, while later examples use Gothic script.
How can retailers add posy rings to their antique jewelry inventory?
In her 25 years in the jewelry industry, Borchert said she has seen only a few true posy rings.
In her 25 years in the jewelry industry, Borchert said she has seen only a few true posy rings.
Because they are so old--the above example dates from the 1300s--most end up in museums like the Victoria & Albert in London or in the hands of private collectors.
There are, of course, modern interpretations as seen in Kosann’s collection, which was created to benefit three different charities, the Breast Cancer Research Foundation, the North Shore Animal League and Win, a charity for homeless woman and children in New York.
“They were one of the most romantic pieces in history,” Kosann said when explaining why she picked this particular category as the inspiration for her new collection.
The designer opted to make her modern-day posy rings smaller than the average ring so her customers mostly wear them on a chain, a “really cool look” she said she’s seen on a lot of young women and that has, apparently, resonated with customers.
“It’s just gotten such a great response,” she said. “It’s really exciting for us.”
While Kosann had the foresight to link her collection of engraved rings to the poesies of old--giving her retailers a story with which to sell the pieces--Borchert pointed out that one could make the argument that any ring with a meaningful phrase inscribed is, in fact, a posy ring.
“The message is the thing. If it has the message, you could make a point that it’s a posy ring,” she said.
More on Trends
The Latest
SourcingSep 29, 2023
Lucara Severs Ties With HB Antwerp The two companies initially partnered during the pandemic and had just signed a 10-year sales agreement in November 2022.
CollectionsSep 29, 2023
Piece of the Week: Sonya K’s Versatile Necklace A classic diamond tennis necklace gets a whole lot cooler with a removable pendant.
Brought to you by
Top 5 Ways to Promote Safety and Security Awareness Among Your StaffAwareness is essential to proactive protection. Learn how to promote and maintain safety and security awareness in your business.
EditorsSep 28, 2023
The Gemstone World Is In Its Unique Cut EraAssociate Editor Lauren McLemore recently spoke with Columbia Gem House’s Eric Braunwart about the uptick in non-traditional gemstone cuts.
Weekly QuizSep 29, 2023
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge with this short test.
MajorsSep 28, 2023
Signet-Owned Rocksbox Now Sells Pre-Owned Fine Jewelry“Pre-Owned Luxury by Rocksbox” offers secondhand jewelry from Kay, Zales, and Jared to members and non-members.
CrimeSep 28, 2023
Have You Seen Jewels Like These? The British Museum Wants to KnowThe museum is asking for the public’s help in finding thousands of pieces of ancient gold jewelry and gemstones stolen from a storeroom.
Brought to you by
A Conversation with Dialog SolutionsDo you always want the right diamonds at the right price in your store? Introducing Dialog, the world’s first diamond subscription service.
MajorsSep 28, 2023
The Kingswood Co. Names New VP, Wins AwardThe company was recognized for one of its private-label, consumer-focused jewelry care lines.
AuctionsSep 27, 2023
Antique Jewels Shine at Bonhams LondonA rare Chaumet necklace and 20th-century sapphire ring sold for double their estimates.
SourcingSep 27, 2023
India Calls for 2-Month Moratorium on Rough Diamond Imports The plea comes against a backdrop of declining demand and falling prices.
SurveysSep 27, 2023
Consumer Confidence Falls in September Amid Rising Recession Fears Shoppers also expressed concern about rising prices, higher interest rates, and political uncertainty.
Events & AwardsSep 27, 2023
PGI to Dole Out $500K in Business Grant Program Participants from the first round of grants saw up to a 900 percent increase in their platinum sales.
WatchesSep 26, 2023
Citizen Launches the Tsuki-Yomi A-T TimepieceAccording to the watchmaker, it features the first light-powered atomic timekeeping moon phase movement.
IndependentsSep 26, 2023
Sally Nelson, Founder of Exclusively Diamonds, Dies at 86The former teacher, described as “a pioneer for women-owned businesses,” opened her own jewelry store in 1980.
Events & AwardsSep 26, 2023
2023 Spectrum Awards Entry Deadline ExtendedThe contest is now open for submissions until Oct. 10.
Events & AwardsSep 26, 2023
Instore Announces Dates for 2024 Show The annual event will return to Rosemont, Illinois next August.
SurveysSep 26, 2023
Mastercard Makes Its 2023 Holiday PredictionAccording to SpendingPulse, retail sales will increase in November and December but not necessarily for jewelers.
CrimeSep 25, 2023
Oregon Jeweler Accused of Selling Lab-Grown Diamonds as NaturalPolice say Douglas Wayne Gamble also swapped natural diamonds for synthetic stones and failed to return customers’ repairs.
CollectionsSep 25, 2023
Neil Lane’s Latest Collection Uses Lab-Grown Diamonds The designer just launched a new bridal range at Kay Jewelers.
MajorsSep 25, 2023
Hearts On Fire Taps Mejuri Exec as CCOYunjo Lee has also worked on collections for Tiffany & Co. with Paloma Picasso and Frank Gehry.
MajorsSep 25, 2023
Second Generation Takes On New Roles at Sylvie JewelrySteve Levine joins the family-owned company, while his brother Gary has a new position.
MajorsSep 22, 2023
David Yurman Alleges These Two Companies Copied Its DesignsThe company has filed complaints against Royal Chain and Samuel B.
Events & AwardsSep 22, 2023
HardRock Summit To Relocate In 2024The event is moving just outside of Denver.
WatchesSep 21, 2023
Timex Wants Your Old WatchThe company just rolled out “Timex Rewound,” a new takeback and resale program.
GradingSep 21, 2023
Retailers Warned About Fraudulent Email Purportedly From GIA The lab confirmed it did not send the message.
AuctionsSep 21, 2023
Hindman Appoints New SVP, Director of Jewelry and WatchesReginald Brack has worked at StockX and Christie’s.
