Trends

The History Behind … Posy rings

TrendsFeb 10, 2016

The History Behind … Posy rings

In the latest installment of The History Behind, National Jeweler explores the origin of posy rings, one of the first examples of personalized jewelry. 

New York--Long before today’s couples were engraving their wedding bands with initials or dates, lovers of old were swapping secret messages and vowing their lifelong commitment on posy rings. 

Also spelled posie or poesy, these rings derived their name from the French word “poésie,” or poem, because of the short sayings with which they were engraved that were religious, friendly or amorous in nature. 

While there are not a great number of jewelry designers using the word “posy” in connection with new collections today, the desire for jewelry engraved with personalized messages has never faded. 

Part of the collection of the Victoria & Albert Museum in London, this circa 1300 gold posy ring is inscribed in Lombardic capitals, “Well for him who knows whom he can trust.” (Photo credit: © Victoria and Albert Museum, London)
Part of the collection of the Victoria & Albert Museum in London, this circa 1300 gold posy ring is inscribed in Lombardic capitals, “Well for him who knows whom he can trust.” (Photo credit: © Victoria and Albert Museum, London)

“It’s continued down through history,” observed Mary Borchert, a historian with Antique Jewelry University. “Nowadays, we don’t call it a posy ring but we technically could because it has the inscription inside.” 

National Jeweler dug into the online archives of the Victoria & Albert Museum in London, which houses what is arguably the largest collection of posy rings in the world, and spoke with one modern-day jewelry designer inspired by the poesies of old for this latest installment of The History Behind.

What are posy rings and when were they worn? 

According to the Victoria & Albert Museum, posy rings were popular from the latter half of the Middle Ages, which extended from the 5th to 15th century. 

In medieval times, when religion was very much a part of everyday life, it was common for saints’ figures or religious text to appear on the rings alongside romantic expressions or even expressions of friendship. In this way, the rings functioned both as a religious talisman and a gift of love. 

Jewelry designer Monica Rich Kosann, who recently launched a line of posy-ring inspired jewelry, said posy rings also were exchanged between kingdoms and religious houses as a show of support. 

According to the Victoria & Albert, posy rings from Medieval period mostly have the words engraved around the outside of the band, while in later examples the lettering is found inside. 

What were some of the most common inscriptions? 

Like much personalized jewelry today, the posy ring provided the wearer the chance to don something completely different than what their neighbor had. They could dictate a saying that was personal to them and the person with whom they were exchanging the ring.

The Victoria & Albert Museum also noted, however, that certain inscriptions appear on multiple rings, indicating the goldsmiths of the day had a book of stock phrases from which clients could choose. 


Borchert said George Kunz’s 1917 book, Rings for the Finger, contains a list of posy rings phrases, including “Joy without end” and “Let liking last.” 

The phrases were written in Latin, Old French or Old English. Until about 1350, the lettering was done in a script with rounded capital letters known as Lombardic, while later examples use Gothic script.  

How can retailers add posy rings to their antique jewelry inventory?
 
In her 25 years in the jewelry industry, Borchert said she has seen only a few true posy rings.

Because they are so old--the above example dates from the 1300s--most end up in museums like the Victoria & Albert in London or in the hands of private collectors. 

There are, of course, modern interpretations as seen in Kosann’s collection, which was created to benefit three different charities, the Breast Cancer Research Foundation, the North Shore Animal League and Win, a charity for homeless woman and children in New York. 

“They were one of the most romantic pieces in history,” Kosann said when explaining why she picked this particular category as the inspiration for her new collection. 

The designer opted to make her modern-day posy rings smaller than the average ring so her customers mostly wear them on a chain, a “really cool look” she said she’s seen on a lot of young women and that has, apparently, resonated with customers.

“It’s just gotten such a great response,” she said. “It’s really exciting for us.” 

While Kosann had the foresight to link her collection of engraved rings to the poesies of old--giving her retailers a story with which to sell the pieces--Borchert pointed out that one could make the argument that any ring with a meaningful phrase inscribed is, in fact, a posy ring.

“The message is the thing. If it has the message, you could make a point that it’s a posy ring,” she said. 

Michelle Graffis the editor-in-chief at National Jeweler, directing the publication’s coverage both online and in print.

The Latest

A Vanitas by Hannah Martin and Guy Berryman Sothebys
CollectionsJul 22, 2025
Jewelry With a Rock ‘n’ Roll Aesthetic Heads to Sotheby’s London

Next week, the auction house will kick off a selling exhibition of jewelry by British artist Hannah Martin and Coldplay’s Guy Berryman.

Cover of the book “Flawless: Inside the Largest Diamond Heist in History”
SourcingJul 22, 2025
Antwerp Diamond Heist Documentary Coming to Netflix

“Stolen: Heist of the Century” is based on “Flawless,” the book about the middle-of-the-night theft, and will debut on Netflix in August.

Emmanuel Raheb
ColumnistsJul 22, 2025
The Gifting Gap: How to Market Jewelry Beyond the Holidays

Emmanuel Raheb shares the top five gifting moments outside of major holidays that jewelers should build marketing campaigns around.

rio-article photo-diamond.jpg
Brought to you by
Taking the Moment Head On: How Rio Grande Champions the Present & Future of Fine Jewelry

As a leading global jewelry supplier, Rio Grande is rapidly expanding and developing new solutions to meet the needs of jewelers worldwide.

NY Now
Events & AwardsJul 22, 2025
NY Now’s Summer Market Returns in August

The wholesale trade show’s Luxury Lifestyle section will showcase established and emerging jewelry designers.

Weekly QuizJul 17, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Jeweler setting a diamond into a ring
MajorsJul 21, 2025
Rio Grande Expands Personalization Offerings

As demand for custom jewelry grows, the company is expanding its services to support retailers.

National Associate of Jewelry Appraisers Logo
Events & AwardsJul 21, 2025
NAJA’s 2025 ‘Ace It’ Conference To Go Virtual

The mid-year conference for jewelry and watch appraisers is slated for Aug. 9 to 10 on Zoom.

an instructor and a student in a bench jewelry classroom
Brought to you by
Investing in the Next Generation of Bench Jewelers

The Seymour & Evelyn Holtzman Bench Scholarship from Jewelers of America returns for a second year.

24th Gem Awards Show Logo
Events & AwardsJul 21, 2025
Gem Awards Now Accepting Nominations for 2026

Nominations in the categories of Jewelry Design, Media Excellence, and Retail Innovation will be accepted through July 30.

Lewis Heyman
MajorsJul 18, 2025
Lewis Heyman on Sourcing Gemstones, Post-Retirement Plans

He retired last month after 28 years traveling the world to source the very best gemstones for his family’s jewelry business, Oscar Heyman.

The Plumb Club board members
MajorsJul 18, 2025
Plumb Club Elects New Board Members

The organization elected its youngest vice president as it looks to draw in fresh talent.

Jewelry industry veterans Brad Campbell and John Liebler
TechnologyJul 18, 2025
Brad Campbell, John Liebler Join Clientbook’s Executive Team

Campbell joins the company as vice president of business development while Liebler is the new vice president of operations.

Silver, Gold, and Bronze Medals for Italy Olympic Winter Games
CollectionsJul 17, 2025
2026 Winter Olympic Medal Design Symbolizes Unity

The medals feature a split-texture design highlighting the Games’ first time being hosted by two cities and the athletes’ journeys.

vimeo screenshot.png
Supplier BulletinJul 17, 2025
The INSTORE Jewelry Show 2025: Your Holiday Preparations, All Wrapped Up!

Sponsored by The INSTORE Jewelry Show 2025

Guinness
SurveysJul 17, 2025
The Most Recommended Brands in the World, According to YouGov

Globally, travel and transportation brands reigned, while in the U.S., alcoholic beverage companies and a lingerie brand took the top spots.

Gina Ferranti
IndependentsJul 17, 2025
Gina Ferranti of GiGi Ferranti Jewelry Dies at 59

The Brooklyn-based jewelry designer is remembered as a true artist and a rare talent.

Rio Tinto Chief Executive Simon Trott
SourcingJul 17, 2025
Rio Tinto Names New CEO, Production Rises at Diavik

Production at the mine in Canada’s Northwest Territories topped 1 million carats in Q2, the third consecutive quarter of growth.

Jewelers of America Learning Workship Logo
Events & AwardsJul 17, 2025
JA to Hold Learning Workshops This Fall

A new slate of Learning Workshops will take place in Oklahoma, Mississippi, and Georgia.

Gold bracelets and bangles
SurveysJul 16, 2025
Signet Jewelers Falls Lower on NRF’s ‘Top 100’ Retailers List

The middle class is changing its approach to buying jewelry and affordable luxury goods, the NRF said.

Buccellati Opera high jewelry bracelet
FinancialsJul 16, 2025
Richemont’s Jewelry Sales Up 7% in Q1

It marks the third consecutive quarter of growth for Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Buccellati, and Vhernier.

Rolex Datejust ref. 16233
WatchesJul 16, 2025
The Top-Selling Rolex Models of the Last 15 Years, According to Bob’s Watches

The reseller’s market trends report, based on its sales data, also shows exactly how much Rolex prices have jumped since 2010.

Jean Dinh Van Orgue Ring
AuctionsJul 16, 2025
Christie’s To Honor Dinh Van With Exhibition

The auction house will be hosting a retrospective paying tribute to jeweler Jean Dinh Van and his company’s 60th anniversary.

Jake Duneier and Danielle Duneier
IndependentsJul 16, 2025
Clyde Duneier Ushers In Fourth Generation

Jake Duneier and Danielle Duneier-Goldberg have stepped into the roles of CEO and president, respectively.

Boucheron Impermanence Boucheron Dragonfly Earrings and Wisteria Hair Piece
CollectionsJul 15, 2025
Boucheron’s New High Jewelry Calls Attention to Nature’s Impermanence

The “Impermanence” collection contemplates nature through the Japanese art of Ikebana (flower arranging) and philosophy of wabi-sabi.

James Avery Cedar Park
MajorsJul 15, 2025
James Avery Expands to 2 More States

The Texas-based jewelry retailer has set up shop in Tennessee and Arizona.

Eric Ford, Couture’s new brand director and former fine jewelry buyer at Neiman Marcus
Events & AwardsJul 15, 2025
Neiman Marcus Vet Joins Couture as Brand Director

Eric Ford will step into the role, bringing with him decades of experience.

Bench jeweler holding a ring and a tool
MajorsJul 15, 2025
Ben Bridge Jeweler Acquires Olympic Manufacturing

In addition to improved capabilities, the acquisition will allow the jeweler to offer support to other independent jewelers.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy