Other

Designer’s Diary: Focus on customization

OtherMay 11, 2015

Designer’s Diary: Focus on customization

Jacqueline Stone explains how she executes the sometimes-difficult dance of pleasing the customer when both parties are involved in the creation of a custom design.

Jackie-Stone-article.jpg
Jacqueline Stone is the chief creative officer of her company, Salt + Stone, working primarily with private clients to build custom engagement rings and wedding bands. She can be reached at shine@saltandstone.com.

Over the years, my custom engagement ring and wedding band business has exploded. I’m extremely grateful for all the work continues to come into my tiny shop. What’s fun to see is that jewelers and retailers alike also are picking up on the custom craze. I think it’s really important to investigate why this “trend” doesn’t seem to be disappearing any time soon.

Jewelry is a valuable commodity--intrinsic, extrinsic, but always personal. Ask anyone about a piece of silver, gold or platinum as a method of adornment and you’ll always get a tale. What’s changing is that people don’t buy jewelry the way that they used to. It’s out of style to have the latest handbag that all your friends are carrying. No one wants to have the exact same car parked in their driveway. The days of status symbols as we have known them are waning.

What’s happening in society right now is a mindfulness and spiritual awakening. Kale is flying off the shelves. We’re all getting organic. Everyone is talking about meditation, self-care and self-awareness. Jewelry is no exception to this rule. Instead of picking up the latest status symbol to show off your wealth, it’s now all about creating a meaningful piece that you can present to your loved one. Custom is the ultimate status symbol these days.

The industry is becoming more hip to this credo.

While working for Lori Gadola in her booth for Kelim Jewelry at the Smart Jewelry Show in Chicago, I noticed many a customer asking for customization of several pieces for their shop. Lori happily obliged. It’s a win/win for both the wholesaler and the retailer. The retailer has a few pieces in their shop that no one else has but yet are not completely recreating the mold--something that I hope everyone will explore a bit more as we move into a crucial time of year where stores are starting to look at their buying budget for holiday.

Custom engagement rings are the pinnacle of the custom evolution. While we all may find a customer who sees something in the case line or in a magazine, they ultimately want to change something about the piece so it becomes their baby. Adornment has a much more personal and thoughtful touch these days and we all need to get smarter about attending to our clients’ needs.

One thing I

see happening quite frequently in my world is the involvement of the party that will be the recipient of the piece, i.e. the fiancée of the fiancé in most cases. Millennials shop much differently than the rest of us (Hannah Connorton did a great piece on this, in case you missed it.) They know exactly what they want and aren’t afraid to ask for it. Women, and men, are involved in the design, execution and stone selection of their diamond at a much more frequent rate than ever before.

Right now, I’m working on a custom anniversary band for my client William to celebrate his 40 years of marriage to his beautiful wife, Mary. He is the boss, but his daughter Carly has final say on what mom would like. This collaboration is moving along gorgeously and I’m thrilled at the results, but this isn’t to say I haven’t had my fair share of challenges. It can get ugly quickly.

Sometimes the girlfriend, or boyfriend, loses sight of what their loved one picked out for them. They get so caught up in making the piece perfect that they forget they may be hurting someone’s feelings. As a designer, I learned a long time ago not to take anything personally. I don’t get miffed in the least by harsh criticism, but I’ve seen too many a face fall when their partner is giving a vicious diatribe on an item the proposer had picked out in secret, in hopes of making them smile. It’s a difficult dance, but you can nail the waltz of complete client satisfaction if you move through with grace, humility and complete understanding.

When I get caught up in these tiny snafus I always bring the happy couple back to their love story. The ring doesn't really matter! It’s a physical manifestation of a powerful memory in their lives. When you go back to that place with them it’s magical to watch them both whip out the white flag, almost simultaneously, and fall back into a place where they are working on the ring together as a team.

In my five years of building custom work from the ground up I’ve only had one time where the clients and I had a peaceful parting. I said a kind and thoughtful goodbye after a conference call where they exploded at me on the phone, told me I didn't know what I was doing, and the bride told me she was going to take over the design and send it to me in an email.  I recommended them elsewhere and didn't take it personally at all. 

You see, it wasn’t about me, the ring or the process. It was about them. In my opinion, they weren't ready to get married, but they couldn’t look at that. It was too painful. They wanted to fight over the ring instead. I let them take their gloves somewhere else.

Custom work is definitely on the rise and I believe here to stay for quite some time. My suggestion to all is keep the focus where it matters most: on the memories, the experiences and the stories. That is something we all can relate to and puts the details of the build back into perspective. Your shop wants us to create that necklace in a high shine versus matte finish?  No problem. But first let’s have a conversation about why that appeals to your customers and how we can help tell the story together.

Jacqueline Stone is the chief creative officer of her company, Salt + Stone, working primarily with private clients to build custom engagement rings and wedding bands. She can be reached at shine@saltandstone.com.

Michelle Graffis the editor-in-chief at National Jeweler, directing the publication’s coverage both online and in print.

The Latest

Kendra Scott CEO Chris Blakeslee
MajorsJan 09, 2026
Kendra Scott Taps Activewear Exec as CEO

Chris Blakeslee has experience at Athleta and Alo Yoga. Kendra Scott will remain on board as executive chair and chief visionary officer.

Wrapped holiday present boxes
SurveysJan 09, 2026
U.S. Holiday Retail Sales Up 4%, Visa, Mastercard Say

The credit card companies’ surveys examined where consumers shopped, what they bought, and what they valued this holiday season.

Christie’s Kimberly Miller
AuctionsJan 09, 2026
Christie’s Names New Global Managing Director for Luxury

Kimberly Miller has been promoted to the role.

Recipients Collage 2025 - NJ (1872 x 1050 px) (1872 x 1052 px).png
Brought to you by
Impacting Tomorrow Today

How Jewelers of America’s 20 Under 40 are leading to ensure a brighter future for the jewelry industry.

Lionheart Serenity Opal Amulet Charm
CollectionsJan 09, 2026
Piece of the Week: Lionheart’s ‘Serenity’ Opal Charm

The “Serenity” charm set with 13 opals is a modern amulet offering protection, guidance, and intention, the brand said.

Weekly QuizJan 08, 2026
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Hannah Dodd and Claudia Jessie in Pandora Bridgerton campaign
CollectionsJan 08, 2026
Pandora’s New ‘Bridgerton’ Jewels Celebrate Bees, Bows, and Blooms

“Bridgerton” actresses Hannah Dodd and Claudia Jessie star in the brand’s “Rules to Love By” campaign.

Ana Khouri logo
Events & AwardsJan 08, 2026
Ana Khouri To Receive 2026 Gem Award for High Jewelry Excellence

Founded by jeweler and sculptor Ana Khouri, the brand is “expanding the boundaries of what high jewelry can be.”

roseco-catalog.png
Brought to you by
Roseco Releases New Full-Line Catalog

Roseco’s 704-page catalog showcases new lab-grown diamonds, findings, tools & more—available in print or interactive digital editions.

Stuller’s Color of the Year for 2026, “Signature Red”
TrendsJan 08, 2026
Stuller’s Color of the Year Is a Stark Contrast to Pantone’s White

The jewelry manufacturer and supplier is going with a fiery shade it says symbolizes power and transformation.

Gracie Abrams Chanel Coco Crush
CollectionsJan 08, 2026
Gracie Abrams To Front New Chanel Jewelry Campaign

The singer-songwriter will make her debut as the French luxury brand’s new ambassador in a campaign for its “Coco Crush” jewelry line.

Bobbi L. Avery, Jeffery Bolling, Britney Phillips, and Lindsay Salvo
MajorsJan 08, 2026
Diamond Council of America Names New Board Directors

The nonprofit’s new president and CEO, Annie Doresca, also began her role this month.

Headshot of National Jewler columnist Peter Smith
ColumnistsJan 07, 2026
Peter Smith: Physical Retail—The Beginning or the End?

As the shopping mall model evolves and online retail grows, Smith shares his predictions for the future of physical stores.

Pinar Hakim Rainbow Seahorse Pendant, Nue Fine Jewelry Irene Charm, Susannah King Venus Ring
Events & AwardsJan 07, 2026
Melee Adds 13 New Designers to NYC Show

The trade show is slated for Jan. 31-Feb. 2 at The Lighthouse in New York City's Chelsea neighborhood.

Akiva Gil garnet ring
TrendsJan 07, 2026
Amanda’s Style File: Go for Garnet

January’s birthstone comes in a rainbow of colors, from the traditional red to orange, purple, and green.

Diamonds Do Good 2025 Impact Report
SourcingJan 07, 2026
Diamonds Do Good Releases 2025 Impact Report

The annual report highlights how it supported communities in areas where natural diamonds are mined, crafted, and sold.

Police cars with lights on
CrimeJan 06, 2026
2 Jewelers Arrested After TraxNYC Diamond District Brawl

Footage of a fight breaking out in the NYC Diamond District was viewed millions of times on Instagram and Facebook.

Rio Grande xTool F2 Ultra Portable Laser Engraver Bundle
MajorsJan 06, 2026
Rio Grande Says These Are the Top Personalization Tools for 2026

The supplier has a curated list of must-have tools for jewelers doing in-house custom work this year.

Zales storefront
MajorsJan 06, 2026
Zales Tests Out A New Look

The Signet Jewelers-owned store, which turned 100 last year, calls its new concept stores “The Edit.”

Linda Coutu
MajorsJan 06, 2026
LeachGarner Appoints New Director of Sales

Linda Coutu is rejoining the precious metals provider as its director of sales.

AGA board 2026-2029
SourcingJan 06, 2026
AGA Announces 2026 Board

The governing board welcomed two new members, Claire Scragg and Susan Eisen.

Jenna Blake diamond Fan earrings
TrendsJan 05, 2026
Amanda’s Style File: New Year’s Edition

Sparkle with festive diamond jewelry as we celebrate the beginning of 2026.

Ben Nighthorse Campbell
IndependentsJan 05, 2026
Jeweler Ben Nighthorse Campbell Dies at 92

The master jeweler, Olympian, former senator, and Korean War veteran founded the brand Nighthorse Jewelry.

Jacquie Aiche Alien Heart Eye Inlay Necklace, Cicada Dragonfly Brooch, Harkness After the Rain Earrings
TrendsJan 05, 2026
Pinterest 2026 Trend Report: Brooches, Bold Gold, Cool Blue

In its annual report, Pinterest noted an increase in searches for brooches, heirloom jewelry, and ‘80s luxury.

Saks Fifth Avenue flagship window installation
MajorsJan 02, 2026
Marc Metrick Out as CEO of Saks Global

Executive Chairman Richard Baker will take over the role as rumors swirl that a bankruptcy filing is imminent for the troubled retailer.

Couture Retailer Liaison Jan Mohr
Events & AwardsJan 02, 2026
Jan Mohr, Couture’s ‘North Star,’ Dies at 71

Mohr had just retired in June after more than two decades as Couture’s retailer liaison.

Shekhar Shah Real Gems
SourcingJan 02, 2026
IDCA Elects New President, Board of Directors

Shekhar Shah of Real Gems Inc. will serve as president of the Indian Diamond & Colorstone Association in 2026.

Lalaounis good luck charm 2026
CollectionsJan 02, 2026
Lalaounis’ 2026 Good Luck Charm Speaks to Resilience

This year’s good luck charm features the mythical horse Pegasus, and is our first Piece of the Week of the new year.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy