CrimeDec 04, 2025
Man Arrested After Allegedly Swallowing Fabergé Egg PendantThe man was charged with theft, accused of ingesting the necklace while in a jewelry store in Auckland, New Zealand.
TrendsFeb 07, 2016
The history behind … Belle Époque jewelry
Susan Abeles of Bonhams gives insight into this era of jewelry design, created as a display of wealth during the early 20th century.
New York--The early 1900s were a time of peace and prosperity in the United States and, for many, also a time of wealth, as small businesses grew and factory output flourished.
Susan Abeles is the director of U.S. jewelry at the auction house Bonhams in New York. She recently took the time to speak with National Jeweler about Belle Époque jewelry, its history and how much it is worth today.
What is Belle Époque jewelry? Belle Époque jewelry was created during the first 15 years of the 20th century, and was inspired by motifs popular during the rule of Louis XIV--bows, swags (wreaths or garlands of fabric) and wreaths were favored.
This jewelry was fashioned with pale-colored gemstones, like pearls and diamonds, into lavish necklaces, stomachers (the triangle-shaped panel used to fill the front of a woman’s dress), tiaras and earrings.
Platinum replaced heavier silver mountings, allowing gemstones to appear in delicate-yet-strong mountings that provided optimum light, airiness and natural beauty. “It was a time of elegance and opulence,” Abeles said.
Why was Belle Époque jewelry created? What was it used for? Belle Époque is French for “Beautiful Era,” because it was a peaceful and prosperous time. Progress in technology and advances from the industrial revolution brought wealth to all classes.
“Belle Époque jewelry was used to display this new wealth,” Abeles said. “Ladies dressed for evening in beautiful lightweight material of chiffon or satin, which were adorned with elaborate lace and beadwork. These diaphanous, high-waisted, less-fitted gowns with low necklines, short sleeves and long-gloved arms provided the perfect stage to showcase the jewels of this era.”
Long hair also was worn up and ornamented with jewels and feathers, while ladies’ necklines would typically display a natural pearl choker complemented by a sautoir or multiple strands of pearls.
When was it popular? “Belle Époque jewelry was popular from approximately 1900 to 1915.
“Today, jewels of this era remain collectible as they are rare and limited in number,” Abeles said. “Moreover, the value, rarity and appreciation for natural pearls continues to grow, creating
a demand for Belle Époque jewelry.”
What other materials were used in Belle Époque jewelry? Aside from natural pearls and diamonds, fancy colored diamonds in yellow, pink and blue while aquamarine, topaz, demantoid garnet and rubies served as accent gemstones.
How much are Belle Époque pieces worth? The value of a piece is dependent on many factors, including material, design, significance, provenance, signature, market and wearability, Abeles said, noting that prices can range from $20,000 and up, sometimes reaching more than $5 million.
How can a retailer add Belle Époque pieces to their jewelry offerings? “Of course, purchase them at auction,” Abeles said, jokingly.
Really, though, interested jewelers might want to look there first.
“Belle Époque is a very limited quantity of jewels that really have survived, and survived in their natural state,” she said. “The pieces are rare, and high-quality fine piece of any era remain collectible.
“Jewelers do recreate pieces in this style, and that’s remained popular, but for a retailer they either need to own or purchase Belle Époque jewelry from an estate, at auction or from a client. That’s the main way it becomes available.”
More on Trends
The Latest
IndependentsDec 04, 2025
Step Inside JR Dunn Jewelers’ Giant New Store The Florida independent expanded its store from 8,000 to 14,000 square feet, fulfilling the vision of its late co-founder, Jim Dunn.
Supplier BulletinDec 04, 2025
Introducing Shop Natural Day: A New Movement Celebrating Natural DiamondsSponsored by De Beers Group
Brought to you by
Impacting Tomorrow TodayHow Jewelers of America’s 20 Under 40 are leading to ensure a brighter future for the jewelry industry.
WatchesDec 04, 2025
Casio Shrinks its G-Shock WatchThe classic 5600 series G-Shock has been scaled down to about a tenth of its size, becoming a fully functioning watch ring.
Weekly QuizDec 04, 2025
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Events & AwardsDec 04, 2025
AGA Announces 2026 Tucson Speaker LineupThe association’s annual conference and gala will take place Feb. 4, 2026, during the Tucson gem shows.
Events & AwardsDec 04, 2025
CBG Announces Speaker Lineup for 2026 Miami Event The January show will include a workshop for jewelry retailers on implementing AI to strengthen their businesses.
Brought to you by
Roseco Releases New Full-Line CatalogRoseco’s 704-page catalog showcases new lab-grown diamonds, findings, tools & more—available in print or interactive digital editions.
Policies & IssuesDec 03, 2025
Costco Joins Growing Wave of Retailers Suing for Tariff Refunds The retailer, which sells billions in fine jewelry and watches, is suing the Trump administration and U.S. Customs and Border Patrol.
SurveysDec 03, 2025
A Record 202.9M Shoppers Turned Out Thanksgiving WeekendBlack Friday is still the most popular shopping day over the five-day holiday weekend, as per the National Retail Federation’s survey.
AuctionsDec 03, 2025
Fabergé’s 'The Winter Egg' Achieves Record $30MThe historic egg, crafted for Russia's ruling family prior to the revolution, was the star of Christie’s recent auction of works by Fabergé.
FinancialsDec 02, 2025
Signet Jewelers’ Q3 Sales Up Amid Continued Focus on Lower Price PointsThe retailer offered more fashion jewelry priced under $1,000, including lab-grown diamond and men’s jewelry.
CollectionsDec 02, 2025
Briony Raymond Introduces First FragranceThe eau de parfum is held in a fluted glass bottle that mirrors the decor of the brand’s atelier, and its cap is a nod to its “Sloan” ring.
SourcingDec 02, 2025
Petra Diamonds Elevates Interim CEOs to Permanent StatusVivek Gadodia and Juan Kemp, who’ve been serving as interim co-CEOs since February, will continue to lead the diamond mining company.
MajorsDec 02, 2025
Lee Krombholz Takes Over as Chair of MJSA Education FoundationIn addition, a slate of new officers and trustees were appointed to the board.
IndependentsDec 02, 2025
RJO Welcomes Its 1,200th Retail MemberWitt’s Jewelry in Wayne, Nebraska, is the organization’s new milestone member.
SourcingDec 02, 2025
Brendan Laurs Honored With 2025 Bonanno AwardLaurs is the editor-in-chief of Gem-A’s The Journal of Gemmology and an expert on the formation of colored gemstone deposits.
CrimeDec 01, 2025
Fourth Man Charged in Louvre Jewelry HeistThe man, who has a criminal history, is suspected of being the fourth member of the four-man crew that carried out the heist.
AuctionsDec 01, 2025
Christie’s Presents ‘Splendor & Style’ CollectionThe single-owner collection includes one of the largest offerings of Verdura jewels ever to appear at auction, said Christie’s.
IndependentsDec 01, 2025
Lustig Jewelers’ New Owner Is a Fellow Chicago JewelerMichael Helfer has taken the reins, bringing together two historic Chicago jewelry names.
MajorsDec 01, 2025
PGI Debuts Platinum-Filled Holiday Gift GuideThe guide features all-new platinum designs for the holiday season by brands like Harwell Godfrey, Ritani, and Suna.
FinancialsNov 26, 2025
Movado CEO Talks Tariffs, Growing Interest in Accessible Luxury WatchesDuring its Q3 call, CEO Efraim Grinberg discussed the deal to lower tariffs on Swiss-made watches, watch market trends, and more.
IndependentsNov 26, 2025
Greenwich St. Jewelers Launches Colorful Holiday CampaignThe “Embrace Your True Colors” campaign features jewels with a vibrant color palette and poetry by Grammy-nominated artist Aja Monet.
MajorsNov 26, 2025
Serafino Consoli Names New VP of Sales, Brand Development for the AmericasLuxury veteran Alejandro Cuellar has stepped into the role at the Italian fine jewelry brand.
Events & AwardsNov 26, 2025
Grandview Klein Presents 4 Scholarships in NamibiaThe company gave awards to four students at the Namibia University of Science & Technology, including one who is a Grandview Klein employee.
IndependentsNov 25, 2025
Pearl Stringer Margaret Hoisik DiesShe is remembered as an artist who loved her craft and was devoted to her faith, her friends, and her family.
SourcingNov 25, 2025
Finestar Opens Diamond Manufacturing Facility in JohannesburgIt joins the company’s other manufacturing facilities globally, including in India, Botswana, and Namibia.
