The independent jeweler first opened its doors in 1888.
The History Behind … Georgian mourning jewelry
This month, National Jeweler delves into the when, where and why of mourning jewelry worn between roughly 1714 and 1830.

New York—Seeing her first piece of Georgian mourning jewelry with a hand-painted scene some 25 years ago almost made Lenore Dailey cry, and it changed the course of career.
“I was amazed by it,” says the Michigan-based antique jewelry dealer and collector, recalling the powerful imagery of the piece, created in memory of a child who died at the age of 2, that steered her into buying and selling the category.
A quarter of a century later, Dailey, who declines the title of “expert” when it comes to mourning jewelry and instead refers to herself as an “enthusiastic collector with much to learn,” shared her knowledge for National Jeweler’s The History Behind.
This month’s feature focuses on mourning jewelry from the Georgian period, the era when King George I through George IV ruled England, from 1714 to 1830.
What is mourning jewelry? To understand the type of mourning jewelry worn during the Georgian period, one must first take a step back and look at the pieces worn prior to the mid-1600s.
Dailey says in that time, memento mori jewelry largely was donned to remind the wearer that they, too, would die one day; that life is transient and fleeting. (Memento mori is a Latin phrase that means “Remember that you will die.”)
“There was so much death and dying” in those days, Dailey observes. “Mothers lost children … there were so many diseases. Death was something that was on their
minds.”
The shift in mourning jewelry began around 1649 with the execution of King Charles I of England.
Dailey says many royalists wanted to show their support sympathy for the fallen king. They commissioned their jewelers to make pieces of faced Stuart crystal (the king was of the House of Stuart) with a portrait of the king underneath.
This began a trend among the wealthy aristocracy to have mourning pieces commissioned to remember their own lost loved ones, marking a shift from memento mori--pieces that were a reflection of mortality and the transient nature of life on earth--to mourning jewelry, which focuses on remembrance, grief, comfort and consolation.
What materials were used for these pieces? Some of the materials used to make Georgian era mourning jewelry were gold, along with silver and base metals, and rock crystal. Very rarely, diamonds were used.
Some of the scenes included in mourning pieces were painted on copper, vellum (a parchment made from animal skin), and ivory, trade in which now is severely restricted in the United States.
Human hair also was utilized, to paint the scenes and as part of the design.
How much is Georgian-era mourning jewelry worth today? Prices for pieces from this period range from $300 or $400 for a small locket to the thousands for larger, more elaborate pieces commissioned by the wealthier individuals of the day.
How can a retailer add this category to their antique jewelry offerings? Dailey said quality pieces from the Georgian era are fairly scarce. “You are going to have to hunt for them, just like I do,” she says.
Dealers who work in this category include Dailey, Samuel Gassman of E. Foxe Harrell in New York and Darlene Boyard.
No matter from whom a retailer chooses to source their Georgian mourning jewelry, Dailey offers this piece of advice: work with a reputable dealer who stands behind whatever they sell.
The Latest

The layoffs come amid the TV shopping channel’s efforts to restructure and focus on live shopping through social media.

The debut event will take place in Miami’s Coconut Grove neighborhood this fall.

Bench jewelers spend years honing their skills, Jewelers of America’s Certification validates their talents.

The roundtable will take place May 17 ahead of the trade show’s welcome dinner.


The “Peanuts x Monica Rich Kosann” collection features the comic strip’s classic vocabulary across 10 bracelet designs.

Three industry experts dive into the complexities of the material often marketed as an “ethical” alternative for metal in jewelry.

Natural diamonds mean more than lab-grown, but when every cut is ideal, they all look the same. Customers want more—Facets of Fire delivers.

The Utah-based company known for making wedding bands has acquired Doubloon Golf.

The longtime luxury executive led one of LVMH’s watch brands, TAG Heuer, for 12 years before taking over Bulgari in 2013.

Authorities said the robbers fled with jewelry and 70 Rolex watches, later taking pictures of themselves posing with big stacks of cash.

Lotus Gemology founder Richard W. Hughes has translated Heinrich Fischer’s 1880 book “Nephrit und Jadeit” from its original German.

The ring's design features contrasting lines influenced by work from architecture-inspired photographer Nikola Olic.

The Conference Board’s index fell as consumers continued to worry about the impact of tariffs, the labor market, and the price of eggs.

However, two medieval jewels surpassed estimates at Noonans Mayfair’s recent jewelry auction in London.

The Oscar-nominated actor debuted in the campaign for the new “Top Time B31” collection, which introduced Breitling’s Caliber B31.

The Congress is scheduled to take place May 19-22 in Brasilia, Brazil.

The family-owned retailer is the new owner of Morrison Smith Jewelers in Charlotte, North Carolina.

The “150 Art Deco” collection features a Miss America timepiece and a pocket watch from the brand’s Archive Series.

Alex Wellen, formerly CEO and president of MotorTrend Group, has taken on the role.

The Impact Initiative is part of the nonprofit association’s new three-year strategic plan.

The ruby and the sapphire, which Christie’s calls a “once-in-a-generation masterpiece,” are part of the upcoming Hong Kong jewelry auction.

The two pairs of earrings, snatched from a Tiffany & Co. store in Orlando, Florida, are valued at a combined $769,500.

The time to start experimenting with video content is now, writes columnist Emmanuel Raheb.

From striking high jewelry to miniature fine jewelry, the new chapter continues to highlight gemstones featuring its signature 57-facet cut.

The jewelry giant is reducing its senior leadership by 30 percent as part of its new turnaround strategy.

The auction house's partnership with online watch servicing platform WatchCheck makes repairs convenient and accessible, it said.