Trends

Federal agency seeks to all but ban ivory trade

TrendsMar 08, 2016

Federal agency seeks to all but ban ivory trade

The U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service plans to severely tighten regulations on the trade in African elephant ivory and, while there are a few exemptions, they may not extend to jewelry. 

Reston, Va.--New regulations proposed by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service (FWS) could make it illegal under federal law to commercially sell, transfer or deliver African elephant ivory, and while exemptions are included in the proposal, they may not extend to jewelry.

In a proposal released in late July, the FWS stated that it wants to prohibit the “sale, or offer for sale, of ivory in interstate or foreign commerce and delivery, receipt, carrying, transport or shipment of ivory in interstate or foreign commerce in the course of a commercial activity.” 

There are, however, exceptions to the regulations, two of which concern--but may not include--jewelry. 

The de minimus exemption is for items that contain a limited amount of ivory that is not the primary driver of the item’s value. The FWS provides a list of criteria an item must meet to be included in this exemption, such as the total weight of the ivory component being less than 200 grams and the ivory not being raw in nature. Examples include objects such as knife handles, insulators on old tea pots and the ivory veneer on a piano with a full set of ivory keys. 

The FWS lists examples of items it does not expect to meet the de minimus exception, among them “ivory earrings or a pendant with metal fittings” and “figurines, netsukes (small sculptural objects) and jewelry.”

Also, Sara Yood, assistant general counsel at the Jewelers Vigilance Committee, points out that, “The clause is set up as an ‘and’ clause, not an ‘or’ clause, meaning that an item must meet all of the criteria in order to qualify for an exemption. So a piece of ivory jewelry would need to meet all of the criteria in order to qualify.”

The FWS’ proposal also includes an antique exemption, which ivory jewelry may fall under if it is old enough. 

This exemption pertains to “bona fide antiques,” meaning items that are 100 years old or older; are composed in whole or in part of an Endangered Species Act-listed species but have not been repaired or modified with any such species after December 27, 1973; and are being or were imported through an endangered species “antique port.”

“A seller would need to be able to affirmatively prove all of the above, with documentation, in order to sell an antique (ivory) piece,” Yood said. 

The fact that the federal

government is looking to severely restrict the trade in African elephant ivory comes as no surprise. Poachers are killing off the species at an alarming rate to feed international demand for ivory, and governments worldwide are moving to protect the animals by limiting ivory sales. Ivory bans already are in place in New Jersey and New York.  

The FWS currently is soliciting comments on its proposal restricting the sale of African elephant ivory. Comments can be submitted here from now through Sept. 28. 

The American Society of Appraisers said it plans to file comment with the FWS regarding the proposed regulations though further details on those comments were not available by press time. 

The Latest

Bicolor pink and colorless diamond
GradingOct 21, 2025
GIA Examines Rare Bicolor Pink Diamond

The stone’s two zones, one pink and one colorless, may have formed at two different times, the lab said.

Pomellato Rodeo Drive Flagship Exterior
MajorsOct 21, 2025
Pomellato Brings ‘Global Attitude’ to Rodeo Drive Flagship

Hollywood glamour meets Milanese sophistication in the design of Pomellato’s new store in Beverly Hills, California.

Grown Brilliance NYC Flagship Exterior
Lab-GrownOct 21, 2025
Grown Brilliance Opens First Flagship

The New York City store showcases a chandelier with 1,500 carats of lab-grown diamonds designed by an FIT student.

LIM-401 2024 National Jeweler Supplier Bulletin- iD100 Web and Eblast FINAL (2) (1).jpg
Brought to you by
Protect Your Customers and Your Business

You deserve to know what you are selling–to protect your customers as well as your business and your reputation.

Douriean Fletcher Messenger Collection
Events & AwardsOct 21, 2025
‘Douriean Fletcher: Jewelry of the Afrofuture’ Opens at MAD

The Museum of Arts and Design's new exhibition features 75 pieces by the designer, best known for her work in the “Black Panther” films.

Weekly QuizOct 16, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Sothebys the glowing rose pink diamond
AuctionsOct 20, 2025
Sotheby's To Auction 10-Carat Vivid Pink Diamond

Making its auction debut, "The Glowing Rose" is expected to fetch $20 million at the November jewelry sale in Geneva.

2025_Gemfields logo.jpg
SourcingOct 20, 2025
2 Mozambique Police Officers Killed at Gemfields’ Ruby Mine

They were attacked on Oct. 15, as approximately 40 miners without licenses marched on the mine’s gate.

ja_fall_2024_by_headshot_stories_6824.jpg
Brought to you by
JA New York Fall Is Right Around the Corner

The upcoming show provides savvy retailers with the opportunity to stock their cases with best sellers in advance of the holiday season.

Empress Eugénie’s pearl and diamond tiara
CrimeOct 20, 2025
See the ‘Priceless’ Jewels Stolen During Daytime Heist at the Louvre

It took the masked thieves less than 10 minutes to steal eight irreplaceable jewels from two display cases in the museum’s Apollo Gallery.

Lauren Gayda
SourcingOct 20, 2025
Pristine Gems Names New Director of European Sales

Gemologist Lauren Gayda has previously worked at The Clear Cut, Taylor & Hart, and Effy Jewelry.

Charles London, Mayer and Fran Udell, Mark and Candy Udell
IndependentsOct 17, 2025
From the Jazz Age to the Information Age: London Jewelers Turns 100

In 2026, the jewelry retailer will celebrate a milestone only a small percentage of family-owned businesses survive to see.

The Edit – A Gallery of Italian Jewelry Masterpieces Graphic
Events & AwardsOct 17, 2025
An Edit of Italian Jewels Is Coming to NYC

The new showcase dedicated to Italian jewelry design is set for Oct. 29-30.

Jeffrey Zimmer Reeds Jewelers
IndependentsOct 16, 2025
Retailer Hall of Fame 2025: Jeffrey Zimmer

Jeffrey Zimmer's decades of leadership at Reeds Jewelers are defined by integrity, a love of sourcing gemstones, and a heart for community.

Sothebys salon new bond street
AuctionsOct 16, 2025
Sotheby’s Introduces Custom Jewelry Service

The new high jewelry design and production process takes 30 days or less from concept to completion, the auction house said.

Oscar Heyman 2025 Holiday Catalog Cover
MajorsOct 16, 2025
Oscar Heyman’s Holiday Catalog Is Out, and It’s Spectacular

The holiday catalog for 2025 features never-before-seen images of more than 100 one-of-a-kind masterpieces.

Foundrae United in Love Campaign Imagery
CollectionsOct 16, 2025
Foundrae Adds To ‘United in Love’ Collection

The brand has released a second installment of its collection of traditional and non-traditional commitment heirlooms.

Kathy Corey
IndependentsOct 15, 2025
Retailer Hall of Fame 2025: Kathy Corey

Corey rescued New England chain Day’s Jewelers, preserving its legacy with strong people skills, pragmatism, and a “get-it-done” attitude.

Colorado jeweler Peter Damian Arguello
CrimeOct 15, 2025
Men Receive Lengthy Prison Sentences for 2023 Murder of Colorado Jeweler

Charles Robinson Shay was sentenced to life in prison plus 120 years while his accomplice, Michael James McCormack, got 75 years.

Logo for Timepieces at Luxury
Events & AwardsOct 15, 2025
JCK, Luxury to Debut New Watch Section in Vegas Next Year

Timepieces at Luxury will take place at The Venetian and, like Luxury, will be invitation-only for the first two days.

Max Fawcett Claibourne Poindexter
AuctionsOct 15, 2025
Christie's Announces New Jewelry Department Leadership

The auction house named a new global head of jewelry, as well as a new head of the jewelry department for the Americas.

Schwanke-Kasten Jewelers, Tom Dixon
IndependentsOct 14, 2025
Retailer Hall of Fame 2025: Tom Dixon

As chairman of Schwanke-Kasten Jewelers, Tom Dixon has been tasked with honoring the past and shaping the future of the family-run store.

Katty Villapando Lyte and Mica Rencher of Shimmer LLC
Events & AwardsOct 14, 2025
Here Are the Winners of the BIJC, JA ‘Emerging Jewelers’ Grant

Katty Villapando Lyte and Mica Rencher received a $10,000 grant for their business, Shimmer Culture LLC.

Cooper Flagg family at Day’s Jewelers
IndependentsOct 14, 2025
Day’s Jewelers Crafts Custom Jewelry for No.1 NBA Draft Pick Cooper Flagg

The parents of the Dallas Mavericks rookie bought their engagement ring at a Day’s store in Bangor, Maine, in 1997.

Pragnell Kitulo Garnet collection
SourcingOct 14, 2025
Pragnell Debuts Kitulo Garnet Jewelry

The UK-based brand sourced the gemstones, which are fully traceable, from an artisanal mining community in Tanzania.

Astrid & Miyu 2025 12-Day, 24-Day, Solid Gold Advent Calendars
CollectionsOct 10, 2025
Count Down to the Holidays With Astrid & Miyu’s Advent Calendars

The trio of Advent calendars include a version with 18-karat gold and lab-grown diamond jewelry in a red lacquer jewelry box.

Front of Marla Aaron porcelain Nymphenburg Lock
CollectionsOct 10, 2025
Piece of the Week: Marla Aaron’s ‘Nymphenburg Lock’

Created in collaboration with Nymphenburg Porcelain, the lock is part of a four-piece collection that took two years to bring to fruition.

Alisa Bunger Frederick Goldman
MajorsOct 10, 2025
Frederick Goldman Names New VP of Sales

Jewelry industry veteran Alisa Bunger has taken on the role.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy