Trends

Federal agency seeks to all but ban ivory trade

TrendsMar 08, 2016

Federal agency seeks to all but ban ivory trade

The U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service plans to severely tighten regulations on the trade in African elephant ivory and, while there are a few exemptions, they may not extend to jewelry. 

Reston, Va.--New regulations proposed by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service (FWS) could make it illegal under federal law to commercially sell, transfer or deliver African elephant ivory, and while exemptions are included in the proposal, they may not extend to jewelry.

In a proposal released in late July, the FWS stated that it wants to prohibit the “sale, or offer for sale, of ivory in interstate or foreign commerce and delivery, receipt, carrying, transport or shipment of ivory in interstate or foreign commerce in the course of a commercial activity.” 

There are, however, exceptions to the regulations, two of which concern--but may not include--jewelry. 

The de minimus exemption is for items that contain a limited amount of ivory that is not the primary driver of the item’s value. The FWS provides a list of criteria an item must meet to be included in this exemption, such as the total weight of the ivory component being less than 200 grams and the ivory not being raw in nature. Examples include objects such as knife handles, insulators on old tea pots and the ivory veneer on a piano with a full set of ivory keys. 

The FWS lists examples of items it does not expect to meet the de minimus exception, among them “ivory earrings or a pendant with metal fittings” and “figurines, netsukes (small sculptural objects) and jewelry.”

Also, Sara Yood, assistant general counsel at the Jewelers Vigilance Committee, points out that, “The clause is set up as an ‘and’ clause, not an ‘or’ clause, meaning that an item must meet all of the criteria in order to qualify for an exemption. So a piece of ivory jewelry would need to meet all of the criteria in order to qualify.”

The FWS’ proposal also includes an antique exemption, which ivory jewelry may fall under if it is old enough. 

This exemption pertains to “bona fide antiques,” meaning items that are 100 years old or older; are composed in whole or in part of an Endangered Species Act-listed species but have not been repaired or modified with any such species after December 27, 1973; and are being or were imported through an endangered species “antique port.”

“A seller would need to be able to affirmatively prove all of the above, with documentation, in order to sell an antique (ivory) piece,” Yood said. 

The fact that the federal

government is looking to severely restrict the trade in African elephant ivory comes as no surprise. Poachers are killing off the species at an alarming rate to feed international demand for ivory, and governments worldwide are moving to protect the animals by limiting ivory sales. Ivory bans already are in place in New Jersey and New York.  

The FWS currently is soliciting comments on its proposal restricting the sale of African elephant ivory. Comments can be submitted here from now through Sept. 28. 

The American Society of Appraisers said it plans to file comment with the FWS regarding the proposed regulations though further details on those comments were not available by press time. 

The Latest

Shot of attendees at a JA New York jewelry trade show
Events & AwardsMay 22, 2026
Instore Buys JA New York Show

The deal closed this week, which means Instore will produce the JA NY show slated to take place this fall.

Buccellati Waikiki gold and diamond earrings
FinancialsMay 22, 2026
Richemont’s Jewelry Brands Lead the Charge in Q4

The company’s jewelry sales were up in Q4 and the fiscal year, with Richemont raising prices in part because of the cost of gold.

Leigh Maxwell Bauble Earrings
CollectionsMay 22, 2026
Leigh Maxwell Celebrates 5 Years at Couture With ‘Bauble’ Collection

The “Bauble” capsule collection of colorful one-of-a-kinds includes our Piece of the Week, the “Bauble” earrings, featuring rose zircon.

PG-05-SHOT-2-LUCIDA.033 1.png
Brought to you by
All Eyes on Gold Prices. Alternatives to Look For. And What to BEWARE of in Vegas

As gold prices rise, today’s retailers are looking for alternatives at prices that will appeal to wider audiences.

Stuller 2026-2027 packaging and display catalog
MajorsMay 22, 2026
Stuller’s New Packaging, Display Catalog Is Out

The updated catalog has a newly dedicated section for gift wrapping.

Weekly QuizMay 21, 2026
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
My Next Question, Episode 5: Amanda Gizzi, Michelle Graff, Frank Everett
PodcastsMay 21, 2026
Episode 5: Sotheby’s Frank Everett Puts the Auction Market in Perspective

Everett covers colored stones’ surging popularity, the mellow return of the “Mellon Blue,” and his “The Devil Wears Prada” doppelgänger.

Springer’s Jewelers new flagship rendering
IndependentsMay 21, 2026
Springer’s Jewelers’ New Flagship Will Serve Next-Gen Luxury Shoppers

Fourth-generation CEO Lilly Mullen wants to emphasize experience, connection, and personalized service.

1872x1052-NextGem-2026-National-Jeweler-Advertorial.jpg
Brought to you by
How Modern Training Is Becoming a Competitive Advantage for Jewelry Retailers

With the trade and customer trust in mind, GIA® developed NextGem™ – on-demand training designed specifically for retail.

Nina Pugliese
Events & AwardsMay 21, 2026
JA Announces Nina Pugliese Memorial Scholarship

The new award, created in partnership with Henne Jewelers, honors the late designer’s legacy through supporting jewelry education.

WFDB International Summit
SourcingMay 21, 2026
Botswana, Angola Join WFDB

The addition of the diamond-producing countries as nation affiliated members broadens the federation’s global representation, WFDB said.

Jewelry scam flyer and police officer handing flyer to elderly man
CrimeMay 20, 2026
NYPD Warns of Jewelry Swap Scams Targeting Seniors

The NYPD is warning elderly New Yorkers to keep their jewelry hidden when walking outside to avoid being a target.

New Adornment & Theory jewelry store in West Town, Chicago
IndependentsMay 20, 2026
Adornment & Theory’s New Store Feels Like Home

Designer Viviana Langhoff has realized her dream of owning a space for her Chicago jewelry store that looks and feels like her brand.

Couture Show Logo
Events & AwardsMay 20, 2026
Here Is Couture’s 2026 Education Lineup

The sessions will run from Friday, May 29, to Sunday, May 31, with one being a live taping of an episode of Couture’s podcast.

Morgan P. Richardson
Lab-GrownMay 20, 2026
Savannah Friedkin Jewelry Names New CEO

Former Stephanie Gottlieb Fine Jewelry executive Morgan P. Richardson is joining the lab-grown diamond jewelry brand.

Audemars Piguet x Swatch white Royal Pop watch
WatchesMay 19, 2026
Here’s the AP x Swatch Pocket Watch That Caused Pandemonium

The $400 pocket watch is a blend of Audemars Piguet’s iconic eight-sided Royal Oak and Swatch’s unserious Pop watches from the ‘80s.

Chris Ploof Modern Electrum Collection Milgrain Rows and Diamonds Ring
CollectionsMay 19, 2026
Chris Ploof’s New Collection Makes an Ancient Metal Modern

With gold prices on the rise, the “Modern Electrum” collection uses an alternative, non-tarnishing metal alloy composed of gold and silver.

Ellen and Michael Fruchtman
IndependentsMay 19, 2026
Ellen and Michael Fruchtman Retire, Sell Marketing Agency

Fruchtman Marketing has new owners, Erin Moyer-Carballea and Manuel Carballea, and will relocate to Miami.

Peter Smith and National Jeweler contributor
ColumnistsMay 19, 2026
Peter Smith: The (Mostly) Immutable Sales Truths

In a column for the 2026 State of the Majors issue, Smith lists 10 time-tested principles about sales that still ring true.

Edahn Golan, Tenoris co-founder and National Jeweler contributor
ColumnistsMay 18, 2026
Edahn Golan: What a K-Shaped Economy Means for Fine Jewelry

In a column for the 2026 State of the Majors issue, Golan spells out how the growing economic divide in the U.S. is reshaping the market.

Foundrae Limitless Expansion of Joy and Hope Collection Campaign Imagery
CollectionsMay 18, 2026
Foundrae’s New Collection Taps Into Joy

The “Limitless Expansion of Joy and Hope” collection evokes summer through colored gemstones and motifs of butterflies and florals.

Inchiquin emerald
CollectionsMay 18, 2026
Hancocks London Acquires Historic ‘Inchiquin’ Emerald

The jewel, circa 1890, is from the late Victorian era and was owned by descendants of the last high king of Ireland.

JCK Industry Fund Logo
Events & AwardsMay 18, 2026
Here Are the 2026 JCK Industry Fund Grant Recipients

This is what the nine recipients plan to do with the funds.

John Wayne Signet Ring
AuctionsMay 15, 2026
American Collector Ponies Up Almost $17K for John Wayne’s Ring

The Western star’s 14-karat gold signet ring sold for six times its low estimate following a bidding war at U.K. auction house Elmwood’s.

MJSA Education Foundation and Jewelers of America
Events & AwardsMay 15, 2026
JA, MJSA To Sponsor Roundtable at TJS

The discussion, "Rebuilding the Jewelry Workforce," will take place on Saturday, May 16, in Troy, Michigan.

Three gold rings set with yellow- and brown-hued diamonds
SourcingMay 15, 2026
State of Diamonds: The Way Forward for Natural Diamonds

The jewelry industry is reassessing its positioning as Gen Z reshapes the retail landscape and lab grown continues to gain market share.

Matching pair of Type IIa, D-color diamonds
AuctionsMay 14, 2026
White Diamonds Lead Sotheby’s Auction, Blue Diamond Does Not Sell

A matching pair of 18.38-carat, D-color diamonds from Botswana’s Jwaneng mine sold for $3.3 million, the top lot of the jewelry auction.

DeBeeers_Bridal_Display_Dune_1872x1052.jpg
Supplier BulletinMay 14, 2026
A Diamond Is Forever Continues Desert Diamonds – Bridal Reinvigorated

Sponsored by A Diamond Is Forever

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy