Other

Rocks On: Agate’s appealing color show

OtherApr 29, 2016

Rocks On: Agate’s appealing color show

This gemstone’s varying colors means that every stone is different from the rest, making it extra appealing in a market where everyone is clamoring for a one-of-a-kind piece.


These two pieces of agate are from a deposit in Mexico called Coyamito.
New York--Agate and its look are unique. The changes in color mean that every stone is genuinely different from the rest, which gives it a certain appeal in a market where everyone is clamoring for a one-of-a-kind piece.

Agate is actually a form of chalcedony, but what sets it apart from the latter is that it forms in layers and, thereby, its color is varied within. A few exceptions to this are moss agate and dendritic agate, which lack the banding but still are considered agates as they contain more than one color.

Having sharp, cleanly defined bands combined with a strong natural coloring can quickly increase an agate’s value, which also can be influenced by factors such as the pattern, condition and origin. It’s also not uncommon for agates to have fractures, which occur during the mining process and also can greatly affect the final price.

Agate’s origins are as varied as its pricing considerations--there’s landscape agate from Brazil, where the color patterns in the stone actually form something like a landscape scene; dendritic agate from India; various colorful agates from around the United States, especially Oregon, Texas, Montana and Arizona; and the many agate localities in Mexico.

Though supply of agate can come sporadically at times, since many sources are mined artisanally and are worked only during local mining seasons, Bill Heher of Rare Earth Mining Co. said agate deposits also can be extensive, which helps make the stone an affordable, available option for jewelry.

And while very large sizes without banding as well as high quality stones are less available than other types, there still remains a fair amount that is not hard to get one’s hands on these days, said Ratan Poddar of gem supplier Shivam Imports. 

The hot colors
Among the most desirable pieces of agate are those that show their color over the entire surface without any dead spots, according to the International Gem Society’s online reference library.

And the natural, vivid colors are also a hot ticket. Anything in red, pink, green or yellow is highly desirable on the market, said Mark Lasater of gem dealer The Clam Shell, adding that he attributes it to a movement in recent years by consumers toward natural and untreated gemstones. “Customers always want rare, unique and natural stones,” he

said. “It’s all a matter of price now.”

In fact, many of the warmer colors, especially when they’re intense, are highly desired by cutters and collectors, and the best specimens and slabs often go into mineral collections rather than get cut, he said.

Shivam Imports’ Poddar added that he’s noticed an uptick in demand for deeper reddish-orange pieces of agate in the past few months, possibly due to the influence of Marsala being Pantone’s color of the year, resulting in a price increase.

And while there’s plenty of dyed agate available in the colored gemstone market, it’s not so prevalent in fine jewelry, except perhaps in smaller sizes like beads or cabochons, Poddar said. 

Most dyed agate comes at a lower cost than the natural material. For example, Lasater said that a gem dealer might charge $5 for a dyed blue Brazilian slab but could expect hundreds for a natural blue slab.

Black tones, however, seem to present a special case. Both men’s and women’s jewelry often are set with dyed black agate because of its similarity to natural onyx so it “will always be a dyed staple,” Rare Earth’s Heher said.

Cameos often can be made from dyed agate as well, which can sell for a fairly high price tag, while dyed tuxedo (black and white) agate, in which the dark part of the stone has taken the dye while the white portion remains natural, offers an interesting and intriguing contrast of colors.

Meanwhile, agate geodes with fine, jewelry-quality quartz crystals are very popular and “have become a staple for designers and goldsmiths worldwide,” Heher said, adding that he believes the trend is far from over and will continue to grow for designers worldwide.

Level playing field
For agate, pricing generally depends on the appearance of the stone, and the sort of inclusions exhibited in it, such as scenes or dendritic trees, also can affect the cost dramatically.

Prices are on the rise right now, and Lasater said he believes there’s one major culprit: the Internet. Just as it has for virtually everything else, the Internet has changed how buyers today are purchasing agate.

In the past most agates, both rough and slabs, were sold at gem shows, where both cutters and collectors would attend and compete for the rare and unique pieces. But since not everyone was able to attend these shows, a segment of buyers were left out of the loop when it came to purchasing agate.

Since the Internet started allowing for auction-style selling and e-commerce of agate, “everyone is on equal footing now, and prices have risen accordingly,” he said.

Rather than a dealer setting a price for agate, these days it goes to the highest bidder. Lasater said this means that good and high quality agates have doubled or tripled in price from what they went for five to 10 years ago.

At the same time, stones from certain older localities, such as Laguna, Coyamito, and Chihuahua in Mexico, as well as Deer Creek fire agate from Arizona, always will garner a higher price if the color and patterns are there. 

“In the coming years, high quality, natural agates with great color will only get more expensive and demand will only increase for this type of material. There are too many people chasing a diminishing resource,” Lasater said.

Brecken Branstratoris the senior editor, gemstones at National Jeweler, covering sourcing, pricing and other developments in the colored stone sector.

The Latest

Graphic for Episode 8 of the My Next Question podcast
PodcastsAug 19, 2026
Episode 8: Diamond Industry Update With David Bonaparte & Ronnie VanderLinden

The industry veterans join the podcast to discuss diamond marketing, the FTC Jewelry Guides, and lobbying for lower tariffs.

Mike Alexander and Scott Murphy
MajorsAug 19, 2026
Mike Alexander To Succeed Scott Murphy as Jewelers Mutual CEO

Murphy will retire at the end of the year and Alexander, currently the company’s president, will take over at the start of 2027.

Spinelli Kilcollin Trade-In Bar Program Imagery
Policies & IssuesAug 19, 2026
Spinelli Kilcollin Embraces Dupes With Trade-In Program

The jeweler is encouraging customers who own lookalike rings to come into the store and trade them for credit towards an authentic piece.

Cover.jpg
Brought to you by
Your Piece Could Be the One Editors Talk About

Submit your pieces for a chance to win in this year's competition.

Woman wearing Zales jewelry
MajorsAug 19, 2026
Zales Wants You to Wear Fine Jewelry Every Day

The new campaign, “You Are The Occasion,” discourages shoppers from saving their fine jewelry for special occasions only.

Weekly QuizAug 13, 2026
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Former GJEPC Chairman and second-generation Indian diamantaire Vasant Mehta
SourcingAug 19, 2026
Vasant Mehta, a Dedicated Diamond Industry Leader, Dies at 81

Mehta led India’s GJEPC through the 2008 financial crisis and was respected worldwide for his wisdom, integrity, and knowledge.

Alfredo Colmenero-Martinez and Jarren Frazier
CrimeAug 18, 2026
2 California Men Arrested in Fatal Vehicle Smash Robbery

One is the driver who allegedly crashed a car into a Sacramento jewelry store in April, striking a 71-year-old employee who later died.

1872-x-1052-July-ad (1).png
Brought to you by
Why More Jewelry Retailers Are Hosting Turnkey Estate Buying Events

Retailers are seeking new ways to attract customers, increase traffic, and create revenue – Estate buying events are a popular solution.

The Retail Smiths Principal Partner and National Jeweler columnist Peter Smith
ColumnistsAug 18, 2026
Peter Smith: The IKEA Effect and Bridal Branding

In a new column, Peter Smith posits that people actually enjoy putting together IKEA furniture, and the same is true for engagement rings.

Police car with lights on
CrimeAug 18, 2026
Thieves Snatch $1M in Jewelry From New Jersey Jeweler

9lakha Jewelers in Iselin, New Jersey, was the target of a smash-and-grab robbery on Aug. 8.

Ring Concierge x 818 Tequila Bridal Giveaway
Lab-GrownAug 18, 2026
Ring Concierge, Kendall Jenner’s Tequila Brand Collab on Giveaway

The jeweler has partnered with 818 Tequila to gift lab-grown diamond studs to a bride-to-be and their bridal party.

Louis Comfort Tiffany Poppy lampshade drawing
Events & AwardsAug 17, 2026
Exhibition on Louis Comfort Tiffany’s Studios to Open at The Met

The exhibition will feature more than 100 drawings of stained-glass lampshades, windows, and more, many created by women and émigrés.

Spinelli Kilcollin Inara Ring
CollectionsAug 17, 2026
Marquise Diamonds Dance in Spinelli Kilcollin’s ‘Wren’ Collection

Marquise-cut diamonds in drop charms are the center of the new collection, reflecting the movement of a dancer in modular styles.

Ft. Lauderdale Jewelry, Antique, & Object Show logo
Events & AwardsAug 17, 2026
There’s a New Jewelry Show Coming to Florida

The inaugural Fort Lauderdale Jewelry, Antique, & Object Show will be held from Jan. 28 through Feb. 1, 2027.

Karl Getschel and Bob Yanega of Smyth Jewelers
IndependentsAug 14, 2026
Smyth Jewelers to Open Fourth Location

The family-owned jeweler will open a new showroom in Bel Air, Maryland, this fall.

Stock image of a gavel
CrimeAug 14, 2026
Wife of Man Convicted in Jeweler’s Murder Sentenced for Conspiracy

Amanda Ileana Hernandez is married to Carlos Hernandez, one of two men in prison for the 2024 murder of Michigan jeweler Hussein Murray.

Paul Morelli Wavey Vine Earrings
TrendsAug 14, 2026
Paul Morelli’s Latest ‘Wavey Vine’ Earrings Embrace Color

The reimagined jewel, our Piece of the Week, trades the diamonds in the original 1998 design for blue, pink, yellow, and green sapphires.

Cover.jpg
Supplier BulletinAug 13, 2026
Your Piece Could Be the One Editors Talk About

Sponsored by American Gem Trade Association

Two Pandora Talisman pendants
FinancialsAug 13, 2026
Pandora’s ‘Talisman’ Collection Shines, Lab-Grown Diamond Sales Fall

In the United States, second-quarter sales were flat amid soft consumer sentiment and lower in-store traffic.

Cuckoo Cuckoo Cadbury Conundrum egg
AuctionsAug 13, 2026
This Gold Cadbury ‘Conundrum’ Egg Set a World Auction Record

The 22-karat gold egg, sold at Batemans Auctioneers in the U.K., was part of a 1980s treasure hunt ad campaign for Cadbury Creme Eggs.

Picture of 2,488 carat rough diamond next to tweezers, a golf ball, and a loupe
SourcingAug 13, 2026
2,488-Carat Diamond, Largest Found in Botswana, Has a New Owner

Lucara Diamond Corp., which recovered the “Motswedi” diamond from the Karowe mine, sold the stone for an undisclosed amount.

John Hardy Heishi Collection Campaign Imagery
CollectionsAug 13, 2026
John Hardy Infuses ‘Icon,’ ‘Heishi’ Collections with Color

The expanded collections now feature hand-cut gemstones like topaz, tanzanite, chrysoprase, chalcedony, smoky quartz, and fire opal.

Jean Dousset Westfield Valley Fair
Lab-GrownAug 13, 2026
Jean Dousset Opens Third Store

The lab-grown diamond jewelry brand’s newest boutique is in Westfield Valley Fair in Santa Clara, California.

Legacy emerald
SourcingAug 12, 2026
Eshed-Gemstar on the Painstaking Process of Cutting ‘The Legacy Emerald’

The gemstone supplier and manufacturer acquired the remarkable 104-gram Zambian emerald at Gemfields’ auction in May.

Surveillance image of jewelry thieves
CrimeAug 12, 2026
Elderly NYC Woman Targeted in Jewelry Swap Scheme

Two suspects offered to trade the woman a “winning” lottery ticket for her jewelry.

The Finsch Diamond Mine in South Africa, owned by Petra Diamonds Ltd.
SourcingAug 12, 2026
Another Diamond Mine Poised to Close

Finsch has been in business rescue since May, and owner Petra Diamonds said it sees no viable path forward for the mine.

Stock image of gavel, handcuffs, and law books
CrimeAug 12, 2026
Jewelry Store Employee Gets 20 Years to Life in Choking Death of Boss

Michel Patrick DeSalles was sentenced after pleading guilty to the 2017 murder of Omid Gholian, who owned a jewelry store in Manhattan.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy