SurveysJul 16, 2025
Signet Jewelers Falls Lower on NRF’s ‘Top 100’ Retailers ListThe middle class is changing its approach to buying jewelry and affordable luxury goods, the NRF said.
AuctionsAug 09, 2016
Circa 1920 pearl pendant garners $3.3M, sets record
Auction house Doyle New York sold a pendant with two matching pearls for $3.3 million Monday, breaking the previous world record for a pair of natural pearls set at Sotheby’s last year.
An anonymous buyer bought the pendant via telephone, paying a price that blew away the highest pre-sale estimate, which was $200,000.
The pendant features two drop-shaped slightly brownish gray natural saltwater pearls that are approximately 12.90 to 12.95 by 23.85 mm and 12.90 to 13.05 by 22.45 mm in size.
The pearls have no indication of artificial color modification, according to report from the Swiss Gemmological Institute, or SSEF, that accompanies the piece. Both are said to be “overall clean and smooth” with very good luster. An SSEF appendix letter states that finding a matching pair of pearls of this size and quality is very rare, and that this pair “can be considered a very exceptional treasure of nature.”
The pearls are topped by a pair of silver and rose-cut diamond caps suspended from a loop set with 23 old-mine cut diamonds, H to I color and VS to SI clarity, totaling 2 carats.
Ann Lange, senior vice president and director of the jewelry department at Doyle, said while the pearls and their rose-cut diamond caps are from the 19th century, likely 1850 or earlier, the pendant came later, around 1920.
She said while officials at the auction house knew the pendant would well exceed its highest estimate of $200,000--following the interest shown in the piece over the weekend, they thought it would sell for as much as $2 million--they were not expecting the $3 million-plus price they got.
She attributes to the record-setting sale to the quality of the pearls, which are a beautiful and unusual color, fully round in the back, and clean with the thick and satiny skin desirous for natural pearls.
Louis Webre, senior vice president of marketing and media at Doyle, notes that the sale of the pearl pair on Monday is the third time the record for a pair of natural pearls has been broken since 2011. That year, a pair of pearls that belonged to the late Elizabeth Taylor sold for $1.99 million during the record-setting auction
of her jewelry at Christie’s.
Last year, Sotheby’s Geneva sold a pair of natural pearls from the collection of Gina Lollobrigida for $2.4 million, a figure that was topped by the piece sold Monday by Doyle.
RELATED CONTENT: Diamond lots top Sotheby’s Geneva sale
“The price for natural pearls seems to be skyrocketing,” Webre said.
Accompanying the $3.3 million pearl pendant is a note connecting the pearls to Empress Eugenie, wife of Napoleon III, whose jewels were sold at a 12-day auction at the Louvre in 1887 following her husband’s fall. Lange noted that before they were suspended from the pendant, the pair of pearls could have been earrings or even a necklace.
After being brought to the United States, the pearls were passed down through the family of George Crocker (1856-1909), the son of Central Pacific Railroad founder Charles Crocker, whose fortune totaled $300 to $400 million when he died in 1888. The pearls also were passed through the family of Henry Huttleston Rogers (1840-1909), an American industrialist who made his money in Standard Oil and the Virginia Railroad.
Rogers’ son, Henry Rogers Benjamin, acquired the pearls in 1925 and eventually gave them to his daughter Anne Rogers Benjamin, who wore them at her debut in 1941 at the St. Regis Hotel in New York.
Later, Mrs. Robert R. Barry gave the pearls to her daughter, Mrs. Lewis A. Shea, who consigned them to Doyle New York for sale.
More on Auctions
The Latest
FinancialsJul 16, 2025
Richemont’s Jewelry Sales Up 7% in Q1It marks the third consecutive quarter of growth for Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Buccellati, and Vhernier.
WatchesJul 16, 2025
The Top-Selling Rolex Models of the Last 15 Years, According to Bob’s Watches The reseller’s market trends report, based on its sales data, also shows exactly how much Rolex prices have jumped since 2010.
Brought to you by
Investing in the Next Generation of Bench JewelersThe Seymour & Evelyn Holtzman Bench Scholarship from Jewelers of America returns for a second year.
IndependentsJul 16, 2025
Clyde Duneier Ushers In Fourth GenerationJake Duneier and Danielle Duneier-Goldberg have stepped into the roles of CEO and president, respectively.
Weekly QuizJul 10, 2025
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
CollectionsJul 15, 2025
Boucheron’s New High Jewelry Calls Attention to Nature’s ImpermanenceThe “Impermanence” collection contemplates nature through the Japanese art of Ikebana (flower arranging) and philosophy of wabi-sabi.
MajorsJul 15, 2025
James Avery Expands to 2 More StatesThe Texas-based jewelry retailer has set up shop in Tennessee and Arizona.
Brought to you by
Jewelers of America is Headed to Las Vegas for JCK 2025The countdown is on for the JCK Las Vegas Show and JA is pulling out all the stops.
Events & AwardsJul 15, 2025
Neiman Marcus Vet Joins Couture as Brand Director Eric Ford will step into the role, bringing with him decades of experience.
IndependentsJul 15, 2025
Ben Bridge Jeweler Acquires Olympic ManufacturingIn addition to improved capabilities, the acquisition will allow the jeweler to offer support to other independent jewelers.
CollectionsJul 15, 2025
Guzema Debuts First Colored Gemstone JewelryThe “Celestial Blue” capsule collection campaign features Olympian Kateryna Sadurska.
MajorsJul 14, 2025
Nanis Opens First StoreThe seasonal store, located in Mykonos, Greece, offers exclusive events, personal styling, and curated experiences.
IndependentsJul 14, 2025
It’s the Summer of Love at Long’s JewelersThe New England jeweler is hosting a bridal event for the month of August.
SourcingJul 14, 2025
Ethical Gem Fair Heads to SeattleThe trade-only event will host its debut fair in the Emerald City later this month.
Events & AwardsJul 11, 2025
The Edge’s Annual Conference Returns in SeptemberIts sessions will focus on inventory strategies, staff performance, retention and acquisition, emerging market trends, and more.
CollectionsJul 11, 2025
Piece of the Week: Miseno’s ‘Arco’ EarringsFor its 10th anniversary, Miseno designed the “Arco” earrings based on the Arco Felice, an arch conceptualized in A.D. 95 in Miseno, Italy.
Policies & IssuesJul 11, 2025
James Avery to Donate $1M to Texas Hill Country Relief EffortsThe jewelry company is one of several contributing to relief efforts in the region after the recent floods.
TrendsJul 11, 2025
Kelly Osbourne’s Engagement Ring Is Sweet as HoneyInspired by fiancé Sid Wilson’s nickname for her, the white and yellow diamond ring features a unique honeycomb design.
CollectionsJul 10, 2025
Penny Preville Celebrates 5 Decades of Jewelry DesignThe brand is marking its 50th anniversary with a limited-edition bangle, high jewelry suites, new collections, and more.
IndependentsJul 10, 2025
Steven Goldfarb to Retire, Close Alvin Goldfarb JewelerGoldfarb said changes in the industry, coupled with his age and the updates needed to modernize his business, drove his decision.
MajorsJul 10, 2025
LVMH Names New Chairman, CEO of the AmericasLongtime LVMH executive Michael Burke has stepped into the role.
Events & AwardsJul 10, 2025
IAC Gold and Diamond Conference Returns to NYC Central topics of next week’s event include climate action, labor rights, artisan preservation, and value retention in producing countries.
MajorsJul 10, 2025
Hearts On Fire Appoints New Sales DirectorVickie Rokkos has joined the jewelry company as its new national sales director of North America.
SurveysJul 09, 2025
Jewelry Stays Strong as Luxury Market Slows, Bain & Co. Says Turbulence will be the new baseline for luxury as it faces its biggest potential setbacks in 15 years, a recent report said.
Supplier BulletinJul 09, 2025
JCK Unwrapped: Trends, Insights & Post-Show TipsSponsored by Rio Grande Jewelry Supply
CollectionsJul 09, 2025
Cece Jewellery’s New Fruit Jewels Celebrate Life’s SweetnessThe “For the Love of Fruits” collection features five fruit pendants, each holding a different meaning.
EditorsJul 09, 2025
The Most-Read Stories of 2025, So FarDiamonds and crimes (some involving diamonds) top the list of National Jeweler’s most popular stories halfway through the year.
