Auctions

Circa 1920 pearl pendant garners $3.3M, sets record

AuctionsAug 09, 2016

Circa 1920 pearl pendant garners $3.3M, sets record

Auction house Doyle New York sold a pendant with two matching pearls for $3.3 million Monday, breaking the previous world record for a pair of natural pearls set at Sotheby’s last year.  


Suspended from this diamond pendant are two drop-shaped slightly brownish gray natural saltwater pearls. A buyer paid $3.3 million (including buyer’s premium) for the piece Monday at Doyle New York.
New York--Auction house Doyle New York sold a pendant with two matching pearls for $3.3 million Monday, breaking the previous world record for a pair of natural pearls set at Sotheby’s last year.

An anonymous buyer bought the pendant via telephone, paying a price that blew away the highest pre-sale estimate, which was $200,000.

The pendant features two drop-shaped slightly brownish gray natural saltwater pearls that are approximately 12.90 to 12.95 by 23.85 mm and 12.90 to 13.05 by 22.45 mm in size.

The pearls have no indication of artificial color modification, according to report from the Swiss Gemmological Institute, or SSEF, that accompanies the piece. Both are said to be “overall clean and smooth” with very good luster. An SSEF appendix letter states that finding a matching pair of pearls of this size and quality is very rare, and that this pair “can be considered a very exceptional treasure of nature.”

The pearls are topped by a pair of silver and rose-cut diamond caps suspended from a loop set with 23 old-mine cut diamonds, H to I color and VS to SI clarity, totaling 2 carats.

Ann Lange, senior vice president and director of the jewelry department at Doyle, said while the pearls and their rose-cut diamond caps are from the 19th century, likely 1850 or earlier, the pendant came later, around 1920.

She said while officials at the auction house knew the pendant would well exceed its highest estimate of $200,000--following the interest shown in the piece over the weekend, they thought it would sell for as much as $2 million--they were not expecting the $3 million-plus price they got.

She attributes to the record-setting sale to the quality of the pearls, which are a beautiful and unusual color, fully round in the back, and clean with the thick and satiny skin desirous for natural pearls.

Louis Webre, senior vice president of marketing and media at Doyle, notes that the sale of the pearl pair on Monday is the third time the record for a pair of natural pearls has been broken since 2011. That year, a pair of pearls that belonged to the late Elizabeth Taylor sold for $1.99 million during the record-setting auction

of her jewelry at Christie’s.

Last year, Sotheby’s Geneva sold a pair of natural pearls from the collection of Gina Lollobrigida for $2.4 million, a figure that was topped by the piece sold Monday by Doyle.

RELATED CONTENT: Diamond lots top Sotheby’s Geneva sale

“The price for natural pearls seems to be skyrocketing,” Webre said.

Accompanying the $3.3 million pearl pendant is a note connecting the pearls to Empress Eugenie, wife of Napoleon III, whose jewels were sold at a 12-day auction at the Louvre in 1887 following her husband’s fall. Lange noted that before they were suspended from the pendant, the pair of pearls could have been earrings or even a necklace.

After being brought to the United States, the pearls were passed down through the family of George Crocker (1856-1909), the son of Central Pacific Railroad founder Charles Crocker, whose fortune totaled $300 to $400 million when he died in 1888. The pearls also were passed through the family of Henry Huttleston Rogers (1840-1909), an American industrialist who made his money in Standard Oil and the Virginia Railroad.

Rogers’ son, Henry Rogers Benjamin, acquired the pearls in 1925 and eventually gave them to his daughter Anne Rogers Benjamin, who wore them at her debut in 1941 at the St. Regis Hotel in New York.

Later, Mrs. Robert R. Barry gave the pearls to her daughter, Mrs. Lewis A. Shea, who consigned them to Doyle New York for sale.   

Michelle Graffis the editor-in-chief at National Jeweler, directing the publication’s coverage both online and in print.

The Latest

Cultus Artem River of Heaven Necklace
CollectionsMay 29, 2026
Cultus Artem’s Necklace Is the Oasis in Las Vegas’ Desert

The “River of Heaven” necklace, our Piece of the Week debuting at Couture, combines 26 salt and pepper diamonds spaced by Tahitian pearls.

Sean Dunn, Amy Greenberg, Elise Greenberg, Coleman Clark, Mitchell Clark
IndependentsMay 29, 2026
Meet the 2026 Retailer Hall of Fame Inductees

This year’s inductees include second-, third-, and fourth-generation jewelers.

Jesse Itzler
Events & AwardsMay 28, 2026
JCK Announces Jesse Itzler as 2026 Keynote Speaker

The author, speaker, and entrepreneur will give his presentation, “Spiritual Billionaire,” on Saturday morning.

PG-05-SHOT-2-LUCIDA.033 1.png
Brought to you by
All Eyes on Gold Prices. Alternatives to Look For. And What to BEWARE of in Vegas

As gold prices rise, today’s retailers are looking for alternatives at prices that will appeal to wider audiences.

JCK Rocks Nelly Graphic
Events & AwardsMay 28, 2026
JCK Rocks To Ride With Nelly

Three-time Grammy award-winning artist Nelly is set to perform at the annual event at Tao Beach on Sunday night.

Weekly QuizMay 28, 2026
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
A screen shot of The Clear Cut's website
MajorsMay 28, 2026
Signet Jewelers to Buy The Clear Cut

Signet will integrate the online-only, natural diamond-focused jeweler into Blue Nile, which it wants to position as a higher-end retailer.

Itä Aguaviva Tassel Pendant, Ashaha Anzar Cuff, Cultus Artem Quetzal Ring
CollectionsMay 28, 2026
Meet The 17 Newcomers to Couture’s Design Atelier

These up-and-coming jewelry brands are bringing their distinct aesthetic and unique point-of-view to the Design Atelier for the first time.

1872x1052-NextGem-2026-National-Jeweler-Advertorial.jpg
Brought to you by
How Modern Training Is Becoming a Competitive Advantage for Jewelry Retailers

With the trade and customer trust in mind, GIA® developed NextGem™ – on-demand training designed specifically for retail.

GCAL 8x Cushion Cut diamond
GradingMay 28, 2026
GCAL By Sarine Launches 8X Cushion Cut

The lab’s proprietary diamond cut grade has been expanded to include the popular fancy shape.

Stock image of police cars with their lights on
Events & AwardsMay 27, 2026
5 Security Tips for Las Vegas Jewelry Market Week 2026

This year, it’s what could happen outside of show hours that worries JSA Executive Vice President Scott Guginsky.

Smart Age Solutions CEO and National Jeweler columnist Emmanuel Raheb
ColumnistsMay 27, 2026
What Jewelers Can Learn From Luxury Fashion’s Digital Playbook

High-end fashion houses know how to emotionally connect with customers online. Retail jewelers should take note, Emmanuel Raheb writes.

Couture The Iridescence designers Aziza-Abdullah Nicole, Cindy Liebe, Danyell Roscoe, Jessica Liu, Marie Helena from Rebel Jewelry, Julia de Souza, and Xiao Wang
Events & AwardsMay 27, 2026
Couture’s ‘The Iridescence’ Will Showcase 7 Emerging Jewelry Designers

The designers are the third cohort of mentees from the show’s Belonging @ Couture mentorship program.

National Jeweler columnist Sherry Smith, partner at The Retail Smiths
ColumnistsMay 26, 2026
The Key Mindset for Better Trade Show Buying

Buying discipline at trade shows starts with clarity about your inventory levels, Smith writes.

JCK Talks panel on stage
Events & AwardsMay 26, 2026
12 JCK Talks Sessions to Add to Your Las Vegas Schedule

The trade show’s education series returns, with sessions on retail trends, AI, watches, marketing, corporate responsibility, and more.

CBG Curated Designer Project Logo
Events & AwardsMay 26, 2026
CBG Brings Its Curated Designer Project to Las Vegas Show

The Curated Designer Project has expanded to highlight eight independent jewelry designers during CBG’s Las Vegas show.

Walters Faith
TrendsMay 26, 2026
Amanda’s Style File: A Cooldown Is Coming

Bring a cool tone to your summer jewelry with these white metal pieces.

Shot of attendees at a JA New York jewelry trade show
Events & AwardsMay 22, 2026
Instore Buys JA New York Show

The deal closed this week, which means Instore will produce the JA NY show slated to take place this fall.

Buccellati Waikiki gold and diamond earrings
FinancialsMay 22, 2026
Richemont’s Jewelry Brands Lead the Charge in Q4

The company’s jewelry sales were up in Q4 and the fiscal year, with Richemont raising prices in part because of the cost of gold.

Leigh Maxwell Bauble Earrings
CollectionsMay 22, 2026
Leigh Maxwell Celebrates 5 Years at Couture With ‘Bauble’ Collection

The “Bauble” capsule collection of colorful one-of-a-kinds includes our Piece of the Week, the “Bauble” earrings, featuring rose zircon.

Stuller 2026-2027 packaging and display catalog
MajorsMay 22, 2026
Stuller’s New Packaging, Display Catalog Is Out

The updated catalog has a newly dedicated section for gift wrapping.

My Next Question, Episode 5: Amanda Gizzi, Michelle Graff, Frank Everett
PodcastsMay 21, 2026
Episode 5: Sotheby’s Frank Everett Puts the Auction Market in Perspective

Everett covers colored stones’ surging popularity, the mellow return of the “Mellon Blue,” and his “The Devil Wears Prada” doppelgänger.

Springer’s Jewelers new flagship rendering
IndependentsMay 21, 2026
Springer’s Jewelers’ New Flagship Will Serve Next-Gen Luxury Shoppers

Fourth-generation CEO Lilly Mullen wants to emphasize experience, connection, and personalized service.

Nina Pugliese
Events & AwardsMay 21, 2026
JA Announces Nina Pugliese Memorial Scholarship

The new award, created in partnership with Henne Jewelers, honors the late designer’s legacy through supporting jewelry education.

WFDB International Summit
SourcingMay 21, 2026
Botswana, Angola Join WFDB

The addition of the diamond-producing countries as nation affiliated members broadens the federation’s global representation, WFDB said.

Jewelry scam flyer and police officer handing flyer to elderly man
CrimeMay 20, 2026
NYPD Warns of Jewelry Swap Scams Targeting Seniors

The NYPD is warning elderly New Yorkers to keep their jewelry hidden when walking outside to avoid being a target.

New Adornment & Theory jewelry store in West Town, Chicago
IndependentsMay 20, 2026
Adornment & Theory’s New Store Feels Like Home

Designer Viviana Langhoff has realized her dream of owning a space for her Chicago jewelry store that looks and feels like her brand.

Couture Show Logo
Events & AwardsMay 20, 2026
Here Is Couture’s 2026 Education Lineup

The sessions will run from Friday, May 29, to Sunday, May 31, with one being a live taping of an episode of Couture’s podcast.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy