Trends

Three trends that rocked Couture

TrendsAug 10, 2016

Three trends that rocked Couture

Three major trends were prevalent among the pieces showcased at this year’s Couture show: ear cuffs and climbers, pieces featuring openwork, and the use of Paraiba tourmaline both as center and accent stones.


Sylva&Cie’s 18-karat gold and sterling silver handmade “Maltese Cross” pendant, with white rose-cut diamonds and diamond rondelle beads on an 18-karat gold chain ($33,875) is an example of the openwork design seen throughout Couture.
New York--Three major trends were prevalent among the pieces showcased at this year’s Couture show: ear cuffs and climbers, pieces featuring openwork, and the use of Paraiba, or Paraiba-type, tourmaline both as center and accent stones.

These major trends are a combination of new (ear cuffs) and ongoing (openwork) and are dependent on global fashion trends and current market conditions, as well as the price and availability of metals and stones.

Ear cuffs typically feature a design that covers the entire ear, beginning with an anchor at the lobe and extending upward to hook over the top of the ear, “cuffing” its way up. Ear climbers generally are smaller, still anchoring at the lobe but extending about halfway up the ear.

The trend of ear cuffs and climbers has caught on with magnitude, with many designers making versions at a vast set of price points, says Helena Krodel, vice president of communications at Luxe Intelligence.

“What was once an ‘ethnic’ look that was indigenous in Indian culture has become more far-reaching as of late, appealing to wearers from a wide range of cultures, personalities and ages,” she says.

Increasing appreciation for colored gemstones has brought attention to Paraiba and Paraiba-like tourmaline, says graduate and certified gemologist Edward Boehm, who also owns Chattanooga, Tenn.-based gemstone supply and consultancy company RareSource. Designers have helped to increase consumer awareness of this copper-bearing form of tourmaline, which ranges in color from vivid turquoise to coastal-water blue.

“The original material was discovered in Paraiba, Brazil in the late 1980s and quickly became one of the most sought-after gems in the United States and Japan,” Boehm says. “Production was limited and quickly absorbed by dealers, designers and collectors. A decade after its discovery, Paraiba tourmaline had gone from hundreds of dollars per carat to thousands and even tens of thousands dollars per carat due to enormous demand and limited production from Brazil.”

In the early 2000s, similar copper-bearing tourmaline was discovered in Mozambique. It was first sold as Brazilian Paraiba, confusing dealers and gem labs, he says. Once its true source was disclosed, a significant price correction took place, making it more affordable to designers.

From 2003 and throughout

the recession, prices of copper-bearing tourmalines from Mozambique, which are referred to as Paraiba-type, began, and continued to, climb.

“This may be partially attributed to initial availability of both commercial and high-end material to designers,” Boehm says. “Furthermore, attention in trade press, and record auction prices have contributed to its improved consumer recognition.

“As demand from the Americas, Europe and Asia continues to increase, so will price.”

The third and final trend seen at Couture, openwork, is an ongoing trend in jewelry likely influenced by the precious metal prices, which remain high, relatively speaking. Though the per-ounce price of gold has been on the decline, reaching $1,242.75 in the second half of the year, its low was reached earlier this year on Jan. 8, $1,221 an ounce.

RELATED CONTENT: Metal prices expected to remain relatively steady

The price of platinum has been fluctuating, dropping to a low of $1,374 per ounce in February and climbing to $1,492 per ounce by May. Gold Fields Mineral Services/Thompson Reuters is predicting the metal to close this year at an average price of $1,474 per ounce.

The Latest

NJ Article image.png
PodcastsJul 22, 2026
Episode 7: Reinhold Jewelers on the Power of Relationships

Mildred Marcano Abrams and Yael Reinhold join the podcast to talk community connections, holiday plans, and preserving Reinhold’s legacy.

Stock photo of loose polished diamonds
Policies & IssuesJul 22, 2026
Trump to Put 50% Tariff on Canadian Goods

The higher tax is set to go into effect in August and will apply to loose polished diamonds as well as precious and base metals jewelry.

Monica Rich Kosann Enchanted Garden Cherry Necklace
CollectionsJul 22, 2026
Monica Rich Kosann’s High Jewelry Is Fruitful

The “Enchanted Garden” series features a cherry, lemon, and pear that each hold a little secret inside.

Brought-To-By-Article-Top-Image.jpg
Brought to you by
Wedding Band Trends 2026: Personalization Takes Center Stage

Colored gemstones, artisan finishes, mixed metals, and meaningful details are shaping demand in bridal jewelry.

Liljenquist new Rolex boutique McLean Virginia
IndependentsJul 22, 2026
Liljenquist Beckstead Opens Rolex New Boutique

It’s located in Tysons Galleria, an upscale shopping center in the Washington, D.C., metro area.

Weekly QuizJul 17, 2026
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
NY Now exhibitor booth
Events & AwardsJul 22, 2026
NY Now Returns in August Under New Ownership

The show, recently acquired by Rockview Management Group, will be held at New York City’s Javits Center from Aug. 2-4.

The Retail Smith Principal Partner and National Jeweler columnist Sherry Smith
ColumnistsJul 21, 2026
Sherry Smith: Shattering the Illusion of the ‘Either/Or’ Diamond Market

Smith offers retailers guidance on creating an environment where natural and lab-grown diamonds can both thrive.

DCA-NJ-article-1872x1052-060826.jpg
Brought to you by
Building the Future of Jewelry Retail: DCA Expands Education, Leadership Development, and Workforce Solutions

DCA is preparing the next generation of professionals by supporting workforce development, leadership growth, and career advancement.

Emerald logo
Events & AwardsJul 21, 2026
Apollo Funds Completes Emerald Acquisition

Former Emerald President and CEO Hervé Sedky has transitioned to the role of senior advisor.

Graff Seraphina Brooch and Lina Pendant
CollectionsJul 21, 2026
Graff’s New Butterfly High Jewelry Brooches Metamorphosize

The 12-piece capsule collection transforms from brooches to pendants.

Rough diamonds from De Beers’ Gahcho Kue mine in Canada
SourcingJul 21, 2026
Anglo Reportedly Selects Gareth Penny’s Consortium as Top Bidder for De Beers

A Botswana government official told lawmakers Anglo has selected The Global Diamond Consortium, an entity chaired by Penny, to buy De Beers.

Stock image of shipping containers
Policies & IssuesJul 20, 2026
Tariffs on Brazil to Increase But Rough Gemstones Exempt

The new tariff, imposed after a Trump administration study, is 25 percent and will stack on top of existing tariffs.

Vhernier Freccia High Jewelry Necklace
CollectionsJul 20, 2026
Vhernier Transforms ‘Freccia’ Collection Into High Jewelry

The collection from 2014 has been reinterpreted into high jewelry with its signature triangular-shaped elements.

Krista Collins Walters
MajorsJul 20, 2026
Krista Collins Walters Promoted to Publisher of Instore

She will also take on the role of vice president of jewelry for SmartWork Media, a newly created position.

Attendees at the Jewelry Symposium
Events & AwardsJul 20, 2026
TJS Accepting Speaker Proposals for 2027 Event

Organizers are looking for presentations on topics like manufacturing, technology and research, bench work, gemstones, and sustainability.

HOWL Frida Venetian Glass Collar
CollectionsJul 17, 2026
HOWL Taps Shailene Woodley for ‘Home Sweet Home’ Campaign

Woodley is seen in the campaign wearing our Piece of the Week, the “Frida” collar featuring 13 pieces of hand-carved Venetian glass.

A diamond ring in a jewelry box
SourcingJul 17, 2026
U.K. Woman Pays £5 for £15K Diamond Ring at Car Boot Sale

A WeBuyVintage jewelry expert uncovered how much the flea market find was actually worth.

Unveiling Rarities
SourcingJul 17, 2026
Diamond Dealer Jeff Pancis Pens Memoir

The founder of natural colored diamond wholesaler Pancis Gems shares stories from his five decades in the industry.

Gem Awards 2027 Logo
Events & AwardsJul 17, 2026
Gem Awards Opens 2027 Nomination Period

Submissions for the milestone 25th annual Gem Awards will be accepted across three categories from now through July 31.

Guzema Founder and Creative Director Valeriya Guzema and Co-Owner and CEO Mariana Lenha
EditorsJul 16, 2026
Q&A: Guzema’s Co-Owners On Its US Expansion, 10-Year Anniversary

Valeriya Guzema and Mariana Lenha look back on the last decade and discuss the Ukrainian brand’s first U.S. store.

Main camp at Ekati Diamond Mine
SourcingJul 16, 2026
Ekati to Close, Leaving Canada With One Diamond Mine

The diamond mine, which opened nearly 30 years ago in Canada’s Northwest Territories, is expected to shut down by mid-August.

Necklace from Vhernier’s “Freccia” high jewelry collection
FinancialsJul 16, 2026
Richemont’s Jewelry Sales Soar for the Seventh Quarter in a Row

Jewelry sales for the company, which owns Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Vhernier, and Buccellati, rose 21 percent in the first quarter.

Grace Barden
Events & AwardsJul 16, 2026
MJSA Mentor & Apprenticeship Program Certifies First Advanced Apprentice Graduate

The graduate, Grace Barden, credited the program with helping her secure a job as a bench jeweler.

Jewelers of Louisiana 80th Annual Convention Logo
Events & AwardsJul 16, 2026
Jewelers of Louisiana to Host 80th Convention

The event, scheduled for next month in New Orleans, will include dinner, a custom jewelry design contest, and education sessions.

Lucara diamond
SourcingJul 15, 2026
1,305-Carat Diamond Recovered from Mine in Botswana

The yet-to-be named stone is the 10th diamond weighing more than 1,000 carats to come out of Lucara’s Karowe mine.

Barry Berman
IndependentsJul 15, 2026
New Jersey Jeweler Barry Berman Dies at 81

The founder of Fords Jewelers, Berman is remembered for his love of connecting with his community.

Watches of Switzerland Mall of America store
FinancialsJul 15, 2026
Watches of Switzerland’s US Sales Jump 18%, Declines to Comment on Sale Report

The watch and jewelry retailer had a strong fiscal year despite what its CEO described as a “complex operating backdrop.”

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy