Trends

Three trends that rocked Couture

TrendsAug 10, 2016

Three trends that rocked Couture

Three major trends were prevalent among the pieces showcased at this year’s Couture show: ear cuffs and climbers, pieces featuring openwork, and the use of Paraiba tourmaline both as center and accent stones.


Sylva&Cie’s 18-karat gold and sterling silver handmade “Maltese Cross” pendant, with white rose-cut diamonds and diamond rondelle beads on an 18-karat gold chain ($33,875) is an example of the openwork design seen throughout Couture.
New York--Three major trends were prevalent among the pieces showcased at this year’s Couture show: ear cuffs and climbers, pieces featuring openwork, and the use of Paraiba, or Paraiba-type, tourmaline both as center and accent stones.

These major trends are a combination of new (ear cuffs) and ongoing (openwork) and are dependent on global fashion trends and current market conditions, as well as the price and availability of metals and stones.

Ear cuffs typically feature a design that covers the entire ear, beginning with an anchor at the lobe and extending upward to hook over the top of the ear, “cuffing” its way up. Ear climbers generally are smaller, still anchoring at the lobe but extending about halfway up the ear.

The trend of ear cuffs and climbers has caught on with magnitude, with many designers making versions at a vast set of price points, says Helena Krodel, vice president of communications at Luxe Intelligence.

“What was once an ‘ethnic’ look that was indigenous in Indian culture has become more far-reaching as of late, appealing to wearers from a wide range of cultures, personalities and ages,” she says.

Increasing appreciation for colored gemstones has brought attention to Paraiba and Paraiba-like tourmaline, says graduate and certified gemologist Edward Boehm, who also owns Chattanooga, Tenn.-based gemstone supply and consultancy company RareSource. Designers have helped to increase consumer awareness of this copper-bearing form of tourmaline, which ranges in color from vivid turquoise to coastal-water blue.

“The original material was discovered in Paraiba, Brazil in the late 1980s and quickly became one of the most sought-after gems in the United States and Japan,” Boehm says. “Production was limited and quickly absorbed by dealers, designers and collectors. A decade after its discovery, Paraiba tourmaline had gone from hundreds of dollars per carat to thousands and even tens of thousands dollars per carat due to enormous demand and limited production from Brazil.”

In the early 2000s, similar copper-bearing tourmaline was discovered in Mozambique. It was first sold as Brazilian Paraiba, confusing dealers and gem labs, he says. Once its true source was disclosed, a significant price correction took place, making it more affordable to designers.

From 2003 and throughout

the recession, prices of copper-bearing tourmalines from Mozambique, which are referred to as Paraiba-type, began, and continued to, climb.

“This may be partially attributed to initial availability of both commercial and high-end material to designers,” Boehm says. “Furthermore, attention in trade press, and record auction prices have contributed to its improved consumer recognition.

“As demand from the Americas, Europe and Asia continues to increase, so will price.”

The third and final trend seen at Couture, openwork, is an ongoing trend in jewelry likely influenced by the precious metal prices, which remain high, relatively speaking. Though the per-ounce price of gold has been on the decline, reaching $1,242.75 in the second half of the year, its low was reached earlier this year on Jan. 8, $1,221 an ounce.

RELATED CONTENT: Metal prices expected to remain relatively steady

The price of platinum has been fluctuating, dropping to a low of $1,374 per ounce in February and climbing to $1,492 per ounce by May. Gold Fields Mineral Services/Thompson Reuters is predicting the metal to close this year at an average price of $1,474 per ounce.

The Latest

Cashier handing Rocksbox bag to customer
MajorsJun 26, 2025
Why Rocksbox Is Opening Stores As Signet Jewelers Downsizes

Rocksbox President Allison Vigil shared the retailer’s expansion plans, and her thoughts on opening stores in malls.

Penny Ruston
IndependentsJun 26, 2025
Penny Ruston Dies at 80

The creator of the WJA Chicago chapter is remembered as a champion for women in the jewelry industry and a loving grandmother.

Stock image of woman shopping
SurveysJun 26, 2025
After Recovering in May, Consumer Confidence Dips in June

The decline was consistent across age groups and almost all income groups, with tariffs and inflation still top of mind.

an instructor and a student in a bench jewelry classroom
Brought to you by
Investing in the Next Generation of Bench Jewelers

The Seymour & Evelyn Holtzman Bench Scholarship from Jewelers of America returns for a second year.

Sorellina Playlist: Electric Dreams Campaign
CollectionsJun 26, 2025
Jam Out With Sorellina’s Jimi Hendrix-Inspired Jewels

The “Playlist: Electric Dreams” collection brings lyrics from the musician’s song, “Little Wing,” to life through fine jewelry.

Weekly QuizJun 26, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
The Jewelry Symposium event
Events & AwardsJun 26, 2025
The Jewelry Symposium Is Looking for Speakers for 2026 Event

The event is set for May 16-19 in Detroit, Michigan.

Exterior of Marissa Collections’ new store in Nantucket, Massachusetts
IndependentsJun 25, 2025
Marissa Collections Opens in Nantucket as Legal Fight Continues

The Vault’s Katherine Jetter is accusing the retailer of using info she shared for a potential partnership to move into Nantucket.

Jewelers of America logo with meetup, State of the Majors, giveaway and massages
Brought to you by
Jewelers of America is Headed to Las Vegas for JCK 2025

The countdown is on for the JCK Las Vegas Show and JA is pulling out all the stops.

Counterfeit Cartier “Juste Un Clou” bracelet
CrimeJun 25, 2025
Customs Nabs Another Big Shipment of Fake Cartier, Van Cleef Jewelry

Agents seized 2,193 pieces, a mix of counterfeit Cartier “Love” and “Juste Un Clou” bracelets, and Van Cleef & Arpels’ “Alhambra” design.

Karine Choudhrie Big Splash Circus Starfish and Lantern Fish
CollectionsJun 25, 2025
Splash into Karina Choudhrie’s Collection of Underwater Circus Performers

The designer brought her children’s book, “The Big Splash Circus,” to life through a collection of playful fine jewelry characters.

Jewelers of America
Events & AwardsJun 25, 2025
JA Announces Impact Initiative Fund Recipients

The trade association has chosen the recipients of the funding initiative it formed to foster the growth and sustainability of the industry.

John Dyer Montana Sun Sapphire
SourcingJun 25, 2025
2025 AGTA Spectrum Awards Open for Entries

The organization has also announced this year’s slate of judges.

Khepri Jewels Luna collection fancy color fringe multi-shape drop diamond earrings
EditorsJun 24, 2025
The Best New Jewelry from Couture 2025, Part 2

Associate Editor Natalie Francisco shares 20 additional pieces that stood out to her at the Couture show.

Lori Tucker
IndependentsJun 24, 2025
Colorado Bench Jeweler Celebrates 50 Years With Local Retailer

Lori Tucker started at Williams Jewelers when she was 18 years old.

“Marvel | Citizen Zenshin” watch for the new The Fantastic Four movie
WatchesJun 24, 2025
Citizen’s New ‘Fantastic Four’ Watch Is Literally Super

The “Marvel | Citizen Zenshin” watch is crafted in Super Titanium and has subtle nods to all four “Fantastic Four” superheroes on the dial.

XO Tacori diamond ring
MajorsJun 24, 2025
Tacori, QVC to Launch Exclusive Lab-Grown Diamond Jewelry Collection

The “XO Tacori” collection was designed to blend luxury and accessible pricing.

Pritesh Patel
GradingJun 23, 2025
GIA Names New President and CEO

Pritesh Patel, the lab’s chief operating officer, will take over as president and CEO of GIA.

Graphic for Las Vegas recap episode of “My Next Question”
Recorded WebinarsJun 23, 2025
Watch: Top Trends at Couture, JCK Las Vegas 2025

National Jeweler and Jewelers of America discuss the standout jewelry trends and biggest news to emerge from the shows this year.

Luanda Accord
SourcingJun 23, 2025
Diamond Producers, Organizations to Kick in Money to Promote Natural Diamonds

Signatories to the “Luanda Accord” committed to allocating 1 percent of annual diamond revenue to the Natural Diamond Council.

Penny Preville, Maggie Hess, Stella Song, and Benjamin King
Events & AwardsJun 23, 2025
Jose Hess Design Awards Celebrate 6 Jewelry Designers

The winning designs captured the “Radiance” theme.

24th Gem Awards Show Logo
Events & AwardsJun 23, 2025
Gem Awards Now Accepting Nominations for 2026

Nominations in the categories of Jewelry Design, Media Excellence, and Retail Innovation will be accepted through July 30.

Stock image of handcuffs
CrimeJun 18, 2025
7 Men Indicted in $100M Brinks Jewelry Heist

The heist happened in Lebec, California, in 2022 when a Brinks truck was transporting goods from one show in California to another.

Marie-Thérèse Pink diamond and Blue Belle sapphire necklace
AuctionsJun 18, 2025
Historic ‘Marie-Thérèse Pink’ Diamond Fetches $14M at Christie’s

The 10-carat fancy purple-pink diamond with potential links to Marie Antoinette headlined the white-glove jewelry auction this week. 

Caryl Capeci Starboard Cruises
EditorsJun 18, 2025
Q&A: Caryl Capeci Dives Into Cruise Jewelry Shopping

The Starboard Cruises SVP discusses who is shopping for jewelry on ships, how much they’re spending, and why brands should get on board.

Gresham grasshopper ring
AuctionsJun 18, 2025
16th-Century ‘Gresham Grasshopper’ Ring Sells for $56K

The historic signet ring exceeded its estimate at Noonans Mayfair’s jewelry auction this week.

Kirk Kara fine jewelry
CollectionsJun 18, 2025
Kirk Kara Celebrates 135 Years With New Jewels

To mark the milestone, the brand is introducing new non-bridal fine jewelry designs for the first time in two decades.

Gemfields 36 Carat Ruby
SourcingJun 18, 2025
Gemfields Sells 36-Carat Rough Ruby

The gemstone is the third most valuable ruby to come out of the Montepuez mine, Gemfields said.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy