EditorsNov 06, 2026
The Spectrum Pieces I Can’t Stop Thinking AboutFrom a Betta fish brooch to a “dragon’s trove” of zircon eggs, here are seven pieces that’ve stuck with Associate Editor Lauren McLemore.
WatchesMar 07, 2017
Ask the Watch Guy: How to Make Money on Vintage Watches
National Jeweler’s “Watch Guy,” Jess Gendron, tells jewelers how to profit from older timepieces.
Jess Gendron is a seventh generation watchmaker, having learned by his father Dan Gendron’s side since childhood. He can be reached at talktothewatchguy@gmail.com.
From time to time, I get calls from jewelers wanting to know something about a vintage watch. Many times it’s either for an appraisal or something in an estate. Vintage watches are an easy sale for most jewelers but to do it profitably, you must have information.
First, let me say that I do not have any stock or interest in the publishers of the book I’m going to explain to you. Jewelers have books on many subjects, but seldom have what we in the watch trade consider a “must-have.”
The book is “The Complete Price Guide to Watches.” This book gives you everything at your fingertips: watch company histories, illustrations of watch karat and silver markings dating back to the 1600s, and buying market prices for virtually every mechanical watch ever made (and a few quartz watches as well).
In every town and city in America, there are people who call themselves “pickers,” “bird dogs” and the now-ubiquitous “storage unit buyers,” like those you see on TV. Most know nothing about watches, but they know enough to go see someone who really knows. These people can be an endless stream of profits, and you can become their go-to place.
I have had pickers come into my store with some very unusual finds. Last year someone came in with a box of broken watches. Most were the kind of stuff that we remove backs and buckles from for parts and throw away everything else, but in among the usual broken fashion watches was a gem. The gem was a Zenith “El Primo” triple register chrono. The watch needed repairs and had a few missing parts.
I paid her what she insisted on before making this find. She wanted $50 for the approximately 10 pounds of junk. With the way we use that kind of stuff, it wasn’t a bad deal, even without the El Primo.
Upon inspecting the load I found the Zenith, looked it up on eBay and found that the watch sells for $3,000. Getting parts for a Zenith El Primo is nearly impossible, so I sold it on eBay as a “for parts or repair” watch. A buyer in Germany snapped it up at $1,300 and was thrilled. So was I.
I could go on and on about the finds I have made using this way. Suffice it to say, it’s a thrill a minute.
Pawn brokers,
Editors' Picks
Sponsored by
as a general rule, only buy watches they are familiar with, e.g., Rolex, Omega, etc., but pass on most everything else they are offered. Now, what might they be turning down?
Here are a few ideas:
--Antique Pocket Watches
--Vintage Omegas
--Vintage Bulovas
--Vintage Hamiltons
--Vintage Longines
Buying gold and diamonds is a crowded field. With an inventory of these type of watches, you can become the vintage watch place to go to in your area.
So now the question is, how do you get these people into your store?
It’s very simple: Craigslist. Once you put up some “We buy watches, running or not” ads on Craigslist (or in a small classified ad), you might be amazed at who comes through your door to buy, as well as at the collectors who come in looking for what you are selling.
You don’t want to buy at the retail price or even at the book prices. If you are going to buy off the street, you’re going to have to know how to rate a watch.
For example, let’s say someone brings you an Omega Seamaster from the 1960s-1970s, and the book value is $700. Now, take a close look at the watch, including the following factors:
--Condition of the case;
--Condition of the crystal;
--If the watch is running;
--Condition of the band (check that it is original; otherwise, it’s like the band is not there); and
--If the original box is available (Most brands become much more salable with the original box. In fact, some boxes are worth as much as the watch.)
As a general rule, it’s a good idea to presume the watch needs service--clean, oil and adjust at minimum. If you know what the typical charge for this is, remove it from your offer. Basically, we just do a balance sheet. If the watch needs a crystal, remove the cost of a crystal from the offer. If it needs a band, deduct that, etc.
Some original bands are worth more than the watch. If you see a price in the “Complete Price Guide” book that shows “with original band,” pay attention. My everyday watch is an Omega Seamaster, for which the original band costs $800 at wholesale. Without it, my watch would be worth about $800 instead of $1,600.
Also, Ebay prices can be used as a quick sale retail price reference. But make sure you are looking at “Sold” or “Completed Auctions,” rather than just the listing price (you can do this in eBay’s Advanced Search. Don’t think that just because someone is asking $8,000 for a Rolex, it will actually sell at that price.
Now, deduct the shortcomings before setting your buy price.
In setting my sale price, I use a straight keystone markup on these items. For example, if you bought the aforementioned Omega for $200 off the street and paid someone to service the watch at a cost of $150, now your total cost is $350. If you sell at keystone, price the watch for sale at $700. Of course, if you can repair your own watches, your profit becomes that much higher--more on this in future articles.
For making the sale, the more you know about a watch and the company that made the watch, the better. “The Complete Price Guide to Watches” is a wealth of information for that, and it’s also interesting reading.
Jess Gendron is a seventh generation watchmaker, having learned by his father Dan Gendron’s side since childhood. Jess Gendron is now the owner of Colorado Timeworks, a watch repair service center in Colorado Springs. He can be reached at talktothewatchguy@gmail.com.
Here are a few ideas:
--Antique Pocket Watches
--Vintage Omegas
--Vintage Bulovas
--Vintage Hamiltons
--Vintage Longines
Buying gold and diamonds is a crowded field. With an inventory of these type of watches, you can become the vintage watch place to go to in your area.
So now the question is, how do you get these people into your store?
It’s very simple: Craigslist. Once you put up some “We buy watches, running or not” ads on Craigslist (or in a small classified ad), you might be amazed at who comes through your door to buy, as well as at the collectors who come in looking for what you are selling.
You don’t want to buy at the retail price or even at the book prices. If you are going to buy off the street, you’re going to have to know how to rate a watch.
For example, let’s say someone brings you an Omega Seamaster from the 1960s-1970s, and the book value is $700. Now, take a close look at the watch, including the following factors:
--Condition of the case;
--Condition of the crystal;
--If the watch is running;
--Condition of the band (check that it is original; otherwise, it’s like the band is not there); and
--If the original box is available (Most brands become much more salable with the original box. In fact, some boxes are worth as much as the watch.)
As a general rule, it’s a good idea to presume the watch needs service--clean, oil and adjust at minimum. If you know what the typical charge for this is, remove it from your offer. Basically, we just do a balance sheet. If the watch needs a crystal, remove the cost of a crystal from the offer. If it needs a band, deduct that, etc.
Some original bands are worth more than the watch. If you see a price in the “Complete Price Guide” book that shows “with original band,” pay attention. My everyday watch is an Omega Seamaster, for which the original band costs $800 at wholesale. Without it, my watch would be worth about $800 instead of $1,600.
Also, Ebay prices can be used as a quick sale retail price reference. But make sure you are looking at “Sold” or “Completed Auctions,” rather than just the listing price (you can do this in eBay’s Advanced Search. Don’t think that just because someone is asking $8,000 for a Rolex, it will actually sell at that price.
Now, deduct the shortcomings before setting your buy price.
In setting my sale price, I use a straight keystone markup on these items. For example, if you bought the aforementioned Omega for $200 off the street and paid someone to service the watch at a cost of $150, now your total cost is $350. If you sell at keystone, price the watch for sale at $700. Of course, if you can repair your own watches, your profit becomes that much higher--more on this in future articles.
For making the sale, the more you know about a watch and the company that made the watch, the better. “The Complete Price Guide to Watches” is a wealth of information for that, and it’s also interesting reading.
Jess Gendron is a seventh generation watchmaker, having learned by his father Dan Gendron’s side since childhood. Jess Gendron is now the owner of Colorado Timeworks, a watch repair service center in Colorado Springs. He can be reached at talktothewatchguy@gmail.com.
More on Watches
The Latest
TrendsNov 06, 2026
Pat Pruitt’s DragonFly Earrings Take Flight on Election NightGroundbreaking New Mexico Governor-elect Deb Haaland wore the earrings, our Piece of the Week, when she declared victory on Tuesday.
MajorsNov 06, 2026
SNL’s Colin Jost Finds the Perfect Gift in Kay Jewelers’ Holiday AdJost goes on an epic journey, traversing rough seas and encountering a cyclops, to discover the perfect holiday gift.
Brought to you by
How Overnight Mountings’ Bridal Builder Makes Custom Engagement Ring Design Easier to SellWith customization becoming more expected in engagement ring shopping, the Bridal Builder makes the process tangible.
Supplier BulletinNov 05, 2026
Winning With GCAL 8X®: What’s Working at the CounterSponsored by GCAL by Sarine
Weekly QuizNov 05, 2026
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
SurveysNov 05, 2026
What Retailers Should Know About Holiday Shoppers This YearFrom shrinking budgets to AI elves, here are five takeaways from holiday reports by Bain, Adobe, Mastercard, NRF, and insights from YouGov.
CollectionsNov 05, 2026
Judi Powers, Russell Jones Unleash Joy With New CollaborationThe designers combined their talents for Little Pet Portraits, hand-painted miniatures of our best friends set in a piece of jewelry.
Brought to you by
A Diamond Is Forever Launches 2026 Holiday Campaign Championing Natural DiamondsA Diamond Is Forever's holiday campaign reimagines natural diamond icons for a new generation celebrating individuality.
FinancialsNov 05, 2026
Brilliant Earth Continued to Resonate With High-Income Shoppers in Q3Its non-bridal fine jewelry remains the star of the show, recently launching new collections inspired by Elizabeth Taylor and Jane Goodall.
MajorsNov 05, 2026
Ariana Grande Stars In Swarovski’s Holiday Campaign“Joy: The Swarovski Musical” features Ariana Grande as the leading lady in scenes inspired by classic musical montages.
GradingNov 05, 2026
GIA to Offer Next-Day Holiday ServicesThe lab will bring back its complimentary next-day service for some reports starting next week.
CrimeNov 04, 2026
$250K+ in Undeclared Cartier Jewelry Seized at Philadelphia AirportA Pennsylvania woman failed to declare a ring and a bracelet, discarding the boxes and receipts to conceal the purchases, officials said.
FinancialsNov 04, 2026
Pandora’s Q3 Sales Up 7% Amid Focus on DesignNew collections and relevant marketing pushed the company forward, while Pandora’s lab-grown diamond sales continue to lag.
Events & AwardsNov 04, 2026
NYC Jewelry Week 2026 Is the Largest Edition YetThe citywide celebration, slated for Nov. 16-22, is set to host more than 175 events, including live jewelry-making demos.
MajorsNov 04, 2026
Bergdorf Goodman Names New PresidentLanessa Elrod, former president and CEO of Louis Vuitton Americas, has stepped into the role as the retailer celebrates 125 years.
AuctionsNov 03, 2026
Infinity Gauntlet Set With 170+ Carats of Colored Gemstones Up for AuctionA replica of one of the most powerful objects in the Marvel Cinematic Universe, the glove is heading to auction next month in Abu Dhabi.
IndependentsNov 03, 2026
Longtime Jewelry Marketer Arthur Klein Dies at 89Klein, who had his own marketing agency and worked for Gabriel & Co. and Trans American Diamond, is remembered as a kind man.
IndependentsNov 03, 2026
Zadok Jewelers Toasts To 50 Years With Diamond Bracelet GiveawayTo enter the giveaway, locals can purchase a featured beverage from one of eight participating restaurants in Houston and Austin, Texas.
Events & AwardsNov 03, 2026
David Yurman Gem Awards Grant Opens 2027 ApplicationsThe grant recipient will be awarded $50,000 as well as mentoring meetings with executives at David Yurman and other industry executives.
Events & AwardsNov 03, 2026
NAJA, Instappraise Name 2026 Scholarship WinnersThe winners include a non-NAJA member seeking training, a member beginning NAJA courses, and a member becoming a Certified Master Appraiser.
AuctionsNov 02, 2026
197-Carat ‘Romanov Sapphire’ Heads to Sotheby’s GenevaThe rare jewel, which has links to Russia’s Romanov dynasty, is estimated to fetch up to $2 million.
CrimeNov 02, 2026
Customs Seizes More Than 400 Fake Audemars Piguet WatchesIt is one of several seizures of counterfeit jewelry and watches by U.S. Customs and Border Protection officials in Louisville this year.
MajorsNov 02, 2026
Lawrence Bock, Caryl Capeci, Amanda Coleman-Phelps Join JA Board Jewelers of America announced the additions to its board of directors following its annual general meeting, held last week.
CollectionsNov 02, 2026
Olympian Kristi Yamaguchi, Heller Jewelers Expand ‘Always Dream’ CollectionThe jewelry collection supports Yamaguchi’s Always Dream foundation, which provides reading and educational resources to families in need.
Events & AwardsOct 30, 2026
Illuminating Carved Paraiba Pendant, Suite of Moonstones Wow at Spectrum AwardsSpectrum’s “Best of Show” honors went to a 101-carat Paraiba carved to look like Medusa that has a magnet-activated LED light.
TrendsOct 30, 2026
Edina Kiss’ Pendants Say ‘Eye’m Watching You’Our Halloween Pieces of the Week are four “Eye” pendants, each set with colorful gemstones.
MajorsOct 30, 2026
The RealReal Hires Former eBay Exec as New Chief Merchandising OfficerAlexis Hoopes expanded eBay’s “Authenticity Guarantee” program during her tenure.
