MajorsApr 01, 2026
Foundrae Sues Pandora for Allegedly Copying Its Medallion DesignsFoundrae also accused the jewelry giant of copying its mood board style of marketing.
WatchesMar 07, 2017
Ask the Watch Guy: How to Make Money on Vintage Watches
National Jeweler’s “Watch Guy,” Jess Gendron, tells jewelers how to profit from older timepieces.
Jess Gendron is a seventh generation watchmaker, having learned by his father Dan Gendron’s side since childhood. He can be reached at talktothewatchguy@gmail.com.
From time to time, I get calls from jewelers wanting to know something about a vintage watch. Many times it’s either for an appraisal or something in an estate. Vintage watches are an easy sale for most jewelers but to do it profitably, you must have information.
First, let me say that I do not have any stock or interest in the publishers of the book I’m going to explain to you. Jewelers have books on many subjects, but seldom have what we in the watch trade consider a “must-have.”
The book is “The Complete Price Guide to Watches.” This book gives you everything at your fingertips: watch company histories, illustrations of watch karat and silver markings dating back to the 1600s, and buying market prices for virtually every mechanical watch ever made (and a few quartz watches as well).
In every town and city in America, there are people who call themselves “pickers,” “bird dogs” and the now-ubiquitous “storage unit buyers,” like those you see on TV. Most know nothing about watches, but they know enough to go see someone who really knows. These people can be an endless stream of profits, and you can become their go-to place.
I have had pickers come into my store with some very unusual finds. Last year someone came in with a box of broken watches. Most were the kind of stuff that we remove backs and buckles from for parts and throw away everything else, but in among the usual broken fashion watches was a gem. The gem was a Zenith “El Primo” triple register chrono. The watch needed repairs and had a few missing parts.
I paid her what she insisted on before making this find. She wanted $50 for the approximately 10 pounds of junk. With the way we use that kind of stuff, it wasn’t a bad deal, even without the El Primo.
Upon inspecting the load I found the Zenith, looked it up on eBay and found that the watch sells for $3,000. Getting parts for a Zenith El Primo is nearly impossible, so I sold it on eBay as a “for parts or repair” watch. A buyer in Germany snapped it up at $1,300 and was thrilled. So was I.
I could go on and on about the finds I have made using this way. Suffice it to say, it’s a thrill a minute.
Pawn brokers,
as a general rule, only buy watches they are familiar with, e.g., Rolex, Omega, etc., but pass on most everything else they are offered. Now, what might they be turning down?
Here are a few ideas:
--Antique Pocket Watches
--Vintage Omegas
--Vintage Bulovas
--Vintage Hamiltons
--Vintage Longines
Buying gold and diamonds is a crowded field. With an inventory of these type of watches, you can become the vintage watch place to go to in your area.
So now the question is, how do you get these people into your store?
It’s very simple: Craigslist. Once you put up some “We buy watches, running or not” ads on Craigslist (or in a small classified ad), you might be amazed at who comes through your door to buy, as well as at the collectors who come in looking for what you are selling.
You don’t want to buy at the retail price or even at the book prices. If you are going to buy off the street, you’re going to have to know how to rate a watch.
For example, let’s say someone brings you an Omega Seamaster from the 1960s-1970s, and the book value is $700. Now, take a close look at the watch, including the following factors:
--Condition of the case;
--Condition of the crystal;
--If the watch is running;
--Condition of the band (check that it is original; otherwise, it’s like the band is not there); and
--If the original box is available (Most brands become much more salable with the original box. In fact, some boxes are worth as much as the watch.)
As a general rule, it’s a good idea to presume the watch needs service--clean, oil and adjust at minimum. If you know what the typical charge for this is, remove it from your offer. Basically, we just do a balance sheet. If the watch needs a crystal, remove the cost of a crystal from the offer. If it needs a band, deduct that, etc.
Some original bands are worth more than the watch. If you see a price in the “Complete Price Guide” book that shows “with original band,” pay attention. My everyday watch is an Omega Seamaster, for which the original band costs $800 at wholesale. Without it, my watch would be worth about $800 instead of $1,600.
Also, Ebay prices can be used as a quick sale retail price reference. But make sure you are looking at “Sold” or “Completed Auctions,” rather than just the listing price (you can do this in eBay’s Advanced Search. Don’t think that just because someone is asking $8,000 for a Rolex, it will actually sell at that price.
Now, deduct the shortcomings before setting your buy price.
In setting my sale price, I use a straight keystone markup on these items. For example, if you bought the aforementioned Omega for $200 off the street and paid someone to service the watch at a cost of $150, now your total cost is $350. If you sell at keystone, price the watch for sale at $700. Of course, if you can repair your own watches, your profit becomes that much higher--more on this in future articles.
For making the sale, the more you know about a watch and the company that made the watch, the better. “The Complete Price Guide to Watches” is a wealth of information for that, and it’s also interesting reading.
Jess Gendron is a seventh generation watchmaker, having learned by his father Dan Gendron’s side since childhood. Jess Gendron is now the owner of Colorado Timeworks, a watch repair service center in Colorado Springs. He can be reached at talktothewatchguy@gmail.com.
Here are a few ideas:
--Antique Pocket Watches
--Vintage Omegas
--Vintage Bulovas
--Vintage Hamiltons
--Vintage Longines
Buying gold and diamonds is a crowded field. With an inventory of these type of watches, you can become the vintage watch place to go to in your area.
So now the question is, how do you get these people into your store?
It’s very simple: Craigslist. Once you put up some “We buy watches, running or not” ads on Craigslist (or in a small classified ad), you might be amazed at who comes through your door to buy, as well as at the collectors who come in looking for what you are selling.
You don’t want to buy at the retail price or even at the book prices. If you are going to buy off the street, you’re going to have to know how to rate a watch.
For example, let’s say someone brings you an Omega Seamaster from the 1960s-1970s, and the book value is $700. Now, take a close look at the watch, including the following factors:
--Condition of the case;
--Condition of the crystal;
--If the watch is running;
--Condition of the band (check that it is original; otherwise, it’s like the band is not there); and
--If the original box is available (Most brands become much more salable with the original box. In fact, some boxes are worth as much as the watch.)
As a general rule, it’s a good idea to presume the watch needs service--clean, oil and adjust at minimum. If you know what the typical charge for this is, remove it from your offer. Basically, we just do a balance sheet. If the watch needs a crystal, remove the cost of a crystal from the offer. If it needs a band, deduct that, etc.
Some original bands are worth more than the watch. If you see a price in the “Complete Price Guide” book that shows “with original band,” pay attention. My everyday watch is an Omega Seamaster, for which the original band costs $800 at wholesale. Without it, my watch would be worth about $800 instead of $1,600.
Also, Ebay prices can be used as a quick sale retail price reference. But make sure you are looking at “Sold” or “Completed Auctions,” rather than just the listing price (you can do this in eBay’s Advanced Search. Don’t think that just because someone is asking $8,000 for a Rolex, it will actually sell at that price.
Now, deduct the shortcomings before setting your buy price.
In setting my sale price, I use a straight keystone markup on these items. For example, if you bought the aforementioned Omega for $200 off the street and paid someone to service the watch at a cost of $150, now your total cost is $350. If you sell at keystone, price the watch for sale at $700. Of course, if you can repair your own watches, your profit becomes that much higher--more on this in future articles.
For making the sale, the more you know about a watch and the company that made the watch, the better. “The Complete Price Guide to Watches” is a wealth of information for that, and it’s also interesting reading.
Jess Gendron is a seventh generation watchmaker, having learned by his father Dan Gendron’s side since childhood. Jess Gendron is now the owner of Colorado Timeworks, a watch repair service center in Colorado Springs. He can be reached at talktothewatchguy@gmail.com.
More on Watches
The Latest
AuctionsApr 01, 2026
John Jacob Astor IV’s Titanic Pocket Watch Heads to AuctionA Patek Philippe for Tiffany & Co. timepiece owned by the American businessman who died on the Titanic will be offered at Freeman's Chicago.
SurveysApr 01, 2026
Consumers’ Outlook Improves Again in MarchThe Conference Board’s Consumer Confidence Index edged up, with optimism about the present outweighing worries about the future.
Brought to you by
Protect Your Customers and Your BusinessYou deserve to know what you are selling–to protect your customers as well as your business and your reputation.
IndependentsApr 01, 2026
Zachary’s Jewelers’ Constance Polamalu to Release Children’s BookThe retailer’s Zach Bear gift comes to life in “Zach Bear and the Window Necklace,” which centers on curiosity, bravery, and helping.
Weekly QuizMar 26, 2026
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Events & AwardsApr 01, 2026
AGA Opens 2026 Gemological Scholarship, Research Grant ApplicationsApplications are open for the AGA Gemological Scholarship Program through May 15, and until June 2027 for the Gemological Research Grant.
ColumnistsMar 31, 2026
Q1 Clues That Reveal Where Your Jewelry Store’s Sales Are Heading These customer behavior patterns say a lot about how successful your jewelry store is going to be this year, Emmanuel Raheb writes.
Brought to you by
Is This You? Every Jeweler Has This Problem; We Have the Solution.Every jeweler faces the same challenge: helping customers protect what they love. Here’s the solution designed for today’s jewelry business.
CollectionsMar 31, 2026
Mejuri Adds Silver to ‘Puzzle’ CollectionMejuri’s popular collection of 18-karat yellow gold vermeil rings debuted in sterling silver alongside new “Puzzle” slider charms.
CollectionsMar 31, 2026
Buddha Mama, Ashley Longshore to Host Pop-Up in DallasThe Miami-based jewelry brand and the NYC-based artist will be in Dallas from April 9-11.
SourcingMar 31, 2026
NDC Designates April 8 as 'World Diamond Day'The initiative invites those in the industry to share stories on social media highlighting the meaning and impact of natural diamonds.
SourcingMar 31, 2026
GIA VP Jillian Wolk to Take Over at Tracr Wolk’s first day on the job as CEO of Tracr, De Beers Group’s blockchain platform, will be May 1.
EditorsMar 30, 2026
Tom Moses Looks Back on His Decades at GIA Moses, who will leave the lab in May after nearly 50 years, discusses his start in the business, gemstones that stand out, and what’s next.
TrendsMar 30, 2026
Oscar Heyman Debuts First Spring CatalogThe new catalog, which showcases 35 one-of-a-kind pieces of jewelry, is a compliment to the company’s popular holiday catalog.
SourcingMar 30, 2026
Rio Tinto Hauls Last Load from DiavikProduction has ceased at the Canadian diamond mine, which has yielded more than 150 million carats of rough diamonds in its 23-year run.
MajorsMar 30, 2026
Tanishq Opens First New England LocationThe store opening marks the 10th United States location for the India-based jewelry retailer.
MajorsMar 27, 2026
Saks Global Has Changed Its Mind About Closing These 3 StoresTwo Saks Fifth Avenue locations, one in Florida and one in California, and one Neiman Marcus store are off the chopping block.
IndependentsMar 27, 2026
Jimmy West, Longtime LJG Executive Director, Dies at 72West, who started in the art department at the Leading Jewelers Guild in 1979, is remembered for his patience, kindness, and dedication.
CollectionsMar 27, 2026
Itä’s ‘Yarí Whirl’ Ring Tells Every Side of the StoryIn the “Tesoro” version of the ring, our Piece of the Week, each side of the gold hexagonal nugget has a unique colored gemstone design.
IndependentsMar 26, 2026
Peter Smith Pens Book on Human Behavior in Sales“Essentially Human: On Sales and Salespeople" reveals the underlying human traits and behaviors of the most successful sales professionals.
CollectionsMar 26, 2026
Lionheart Celebrates 13 Years of ‘Cassandane’The collection features symbols of love, luck, and light, based on the story of Queen Cassandane and Cyrus the Great of Persia.
Events & AwardsMar 26, 2026
NAJA, Instappraise Introduce New ScholarshipIt’s the third scholarship to be launched as part of the partnership to help appraisers advance their professional credentials.
Events & AwardsMar 26, 2026
JA Still Accepting Entries for 2026 CASE AwardsThe deadline for entries in the jewelry design competition has been extended to April 3.
SourcingMar 25, 2026
Rob Bates Steps Down as JCK News Director After 28 years with JCK, the veteran industry journalist is launching his own publication on Substack called The Jewelry Wire.
GradingMar 25, 2026
New York’s Natural History Museum, Wiley To Build Minerals DatabaseWiley said the project will give scientists worldwide access to the American Museum of Natural’s History renowned mineral collection.
CollectionsMar 25, 2026
Boochier Turns Flower Friendship Bracelets Into Fine JewelryThe “Flower Puff” collection looks to beaded flower friendship bracelets from childhood, turning the silhouette into nostalgic fine jewelry.
Policies & IssuesMar 25, 2026
Community for Ethical Jewelry to Host Bench Jeweler Shortage WebinarSet for April 2, the webinar will discuss how the jewelry industry can address the workforce gap.
