Collections

Vacheron creates world’s most complicated watch

CollectionsFeb 07, 2016

Vacheron creates world’s most complicated watch

Commissioned by a private client, Vacheron Constantin’s new Ref. 57260 is a one-of-a-kind, double-dial watch boasting 57 complications and more than 2,800 components.

20151015_VC-complications-Article.jpg
The Ref. 57260 is made in 18-karat white gold, polished with glazed bezels on each side. Each side of the watch also has a dial made of silver, and rotating discs for the displays made of lightweight aluminum.

Geneva--Swiss watchmaker Vacheron Constantin has unveiled what is says is the most complicated watch in the world, a creation nearly nine years in the making.

Called the Ref. 57260, the one-of-a-kind, double-dial pocket watch boasts 57 complications and more than 2,800 components. The brand said it is not releasing the price or value of the timepiece, per the wishes of the anonymous collector who commissioned it.

Among the complications are new mechanisms that have never been seen before in watchmaking, among them the double retrograde “rattrapante” chronograph. This new chronograph is read by the user in the same manner as a classic split-seconds chronograph. What makes it unique is the fact that while both hands still work in unison from the same axis, they never actually meet. They operate on two separate scales on opposing sides of the dial.

In this respect, it can best be described as a “detached” split-seconds chronograph, Vacheron Constantin said.

Another new mechanism is the dual-function perpetual calendar, which gives the watch the ability to provide three entirely different perpetual calendar readings, one for the Hebrew calendar and two for the Gregorian.

Vacheron Constantin said due to the long-term changing cycles of the Hebrew calendar and its differences from the Gregorian calendar, the making of a complete, functioning mechanical Hebraic perpetual calendar had been impossible until the Ref. 57260. “Highly complicated mathematical calculations combining both the lunar months and solar year were transcribed into not only an operational mechanism but a display that is elegant, logical and easy to read,” the brand said. “This achievement cannot be overstated as an example of contemporary watchmaking genius.”

The Gregorian perpetual calendar, meanwhile, automatically corrects itself for the appropriate number of days in the month, and the leap years can be read on the dial using the retrograde date, the days of the week and months dials. Two possible options are available for the Gregorian perpetual calendar: either the traditional calendar, or the business calendar system, known as ISO 8601, a numerical system that utilizes 52 weeks and seven days.

When it comes to chiming, the watch has three possible striking modes: striking, where it chimes automatically at each passing quarter hour; night silence, when chiming is automatically disabled for anywhere from eight to 22 hours; and silence, where the chiming can be switched off when it is not desired.

The “armillary” tourbillon cage containing

the watch’s escapement is visible through the aperture beneath the sky chart. The cage received its name because it is reminiscent of the circles and rings of the scientific instrument known as the armillary sphere. It was placed on the second dial side, complementing the astronomical functions to suggest the apparent movement of the stars, sun and the ecliptic around the earth.

The armillary sphere tourbillon was “made of the lightest of materials,” Vacheron Constantin said, to minimize the effects of gravity on the balance wheel, hairspring and pallet fork of the escapement. The tourbillon essentially is a revolving platform and cage upon which the entire escapement is mounted, making one full rotation every minute. In this tourbillon, the escapement is rotated in three planes at once.

 

The Latest

Greenwich St. Jewelers Adornos photography exhibit
IndependentsSep 14, 2026
Greenwich St. Jewelers to Unveil Photography Exhibition

“Adornos: Jewelry, Memory & What We Pass Down” honors the jewelry’s importance to New York City’s Latine communities.

The Retail Smiths Principal Sherry Smith
ColumnistsSep 11, 2026
Sherry Smith: Stop Waiting for December to Save Your Christmas

The stores that have a great December are the ones that made good decisions in August, September, and October, Sherry Smith writes.

Make A Wish East Tennessee
MajorsSep 11, 2026
The Wishing Place by JTV Opens

The jewelry retail broadcast network has sponsored a new space for Make-A-Wish East Tennessee on its campus in Knoxville.

Cover.jpg
Brought to you by
Your Piece Could Be the One Editors Talk About

Submit your pieces for a chance to win in this year's competition.

The Edge logo
Events & AwardsSep 11, 2026
The Edge Awards Scholarships to 2 Young Jewelry Professionals

The recipients were recognized at the 24 Karat Club of the Southeastern United States’ annual banquet.

Weekly QuizSep 10, 2026
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Steven Lagos and Keith Rolfe
MajorsSep 10, 2026
Lagos Founder Steven Lagos Steps Down as CEO

Keith Rolfe, CFO and COO of Lagos, is now at the jewelry brand’s helm while Steven takes on the role of executive chairman.

Alberto Perez-Elias mugshot
CrimeSep 10, 2026
FBI Offers $50K Reward for ‘Most Wanted’ Fugitive in $1M Jewelry Heist

Alberto Perez-Elias is one of four men charged in the armed robbery of a Cape Coral, Florida, jewelry store and remains at large.

1872-x-1052-July-ad (1).png
Brought to you by
Why More Jewelry Retailers Are Hosting Turnkey Estate Buying Events

Retailers are seeking new ways to attract customers, increase traffic, and create revenue – Estate buying events are a popular solution.

Kat Florence Paraibas
AuctionsSep 10, 2026
Massive Matched Pair of Paraíba Tourmalines Head to Sotheby’s

The “Kat Florence Luminas” will be offered together as one lot and could fetch up to $637,000.

AGTA logo
SourcingSep 10, 2026
AGTA Announces 4 Newly Elected Directors

Four directors were elected to the AGTA board and will serve three-year terms beginning in February.

New Julien’s Auctions CEO Ken Citron
AuctionsSep 10, 2026
Former Sotheby’s, Christie’s Exec Appointed CEO of Julien’s Auctions

Ken Citron joins the celebrity memorabilia-focused auction house ahead of its first week-long series of events in Abu Dhabi.

Blue Nile Ellipse earrings
FinancialsSep 09, 2026
Signet Jewelers to ‘Double Down’ on Blue Nile Amid Strong Sales

The jewelry retailer said it sees opportunity at higher price points, particularly in natural diamonds for bridal and fashion.

Sarah Leonard Fine Jewelers family
IndependentsSep 09, 2026
Sarah Leonard Fine Jewelers Closes After Nearly 80 Years

The Los Angeles-based, family-owned jeweler was founded by Lenny and Sunny Friedman in 1946.

Fura rubies
SourcingSep 09, 2026
Fura Gems Notes ‘Remarkable’ Interest in Larger Rubies at Latest Sale

The auction, held in Bangkok, was 96 percent sold by lot, with nearly 411,000 carats of Mozambiquan rubies sold.

Stuller Fine Jewelry 2027-2028 catalog
MajorsSep 09, 2026
Stuller’s Latest Catalog Includes Its New Demi-Fine Collection

Fine Jewelry 2027-2028 has more than 900 new styles, including silver, gold-filled, gold-plated sterling silver, and vermeil jewelry.

2018_Stuller-lab-grown.jpg
Policies & IssuesSep 09, 2026
8 Key Changes the FTC Made to the Jewelry Guides: A Refresher

Learn more about the new terms for lab-grown diamonds and composite gemstones, and the major changes in store for precious metals jewelry.

Frederick (Ricky) Wilkinson Bromberg
IndependentsSep 08, 2026
Ricky Bromberg, Longtime President of Bromberg & Co., Dies at 67

Bromberg is remembered as a Southern gentleman who always wore a suit and tie and treated others with kindness.

Zahn Z Zaha rainbow sapphire ring
TrendsSep 08, 2026
Amanda’s Style File: A Hot Take on September’s Birthstone

With high durability and a wide range of colors to choose from, sapphires may be the ultimate birthstone, Gizzi claims.

The Retail Smiths principal and National Jeweler columnist Peter Smith
ColumnistsSep 08, 2026
Peter Smith: Humor Is No Laughing Matter

Laughter is often considered a distraction in the workplace, but it has benefits for both staff and management, Peter Smith writes.

Gretchen Koback Pursel
MajorsSep 08, 2026
Former Tiffany & Co. Exec Joins Exemplar Luxury Group

Gretchen Koback Pursel is the new chief people officer at the company formerly known as Saks Global.

Rendering of renovated Orloff Jewelers store
IndependentsSep 04, 2026
Orloff Jewelers Will Soon Unveil a Bigger, Better Location

The California jeweler is renovating its store in Fresno, with plans to show off the new space in December.

JCK Industry Fund logo
Events & AwardsSep 04, 2026
JCK Industry Fund Accepting 2027 Applications

The deadline to apply is Nov. 13.

Remi Guillemin
AuctionsSep 04, 2026
Christie's Names New Global Head of Watches

The auction house has promoted Remi Guillemin, formerly its head of watches for the Americas and EMEA, to the role.

Simon G CEO Zaven Ghanimian
EditorsSep 03, 2026
Q&A: Simon G.’s CEO on Why He Won’t Use AI for Jewelry Design

Zaven Ghanimian discussed the value of human craftsmanship and where the implementation of artificial intelligence does work.

Jewelers of America logo
Events & AwardsSep 03, 2026
Here Are the First Recipients of Nina Pugliese Memorial Scholarship

Jewelers of America also revealed the recipients of the Seymour & Evelyn Holtzman Bench Scholarship and its own scholarship programs.

Robert Pattinson Jaeger-LeCoultre
WatchesSep 03, 2026
Robert Pattinson Joins Jaeger-LeCoultre as Brand Ambassador

The British actor, known for his roles in “Twilight” and “The Odyssey,” will star in a campaign for the Master Control Chronometre.

Sydney Evan Little Love Open Coin Fixed Necklace
CollectionsSep 03, 2026
Sydney Evan Celebrates 25 Years With 4 New Collections

The “Confetti Disco,” “Champagne Cheers,” “Tuxedo,” and “Classic Punk” jewelry collections each capture a distinct spirit of celebration.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy