Collections

Vacheron creates world’s most complicated watch

CollectionsFeb 07, 2016

Vacheron creates world’s most complicated watch

Commissioned by a private client, Vacheron Constantin’s new Ref. 57260 is a one-of-a-kind, double-dial watch boasting 57 complications and more than 2,800 components.

20151015_VC-complications-Article.jpg
The Ref. 57260 is made in 18-karat white gold, polished with glazed bezels on each side. Each side of the watch also has a dial made of silver, and rotating discs for the displays made of lightweight aluminum.

Geneva--Swiss watchmaker Vacheron Constantin has unveiled what is says is the most complicated watch in the world, a creation nearly nine years in the making.

Called the Ref. 57260, the one-of-a-kind, double-dial pocket watch boasts 57 complications and more than 2,800 components. The brand said it is not releasing the price or value of the timepiece, per the wishes of the anonymous collector who commissioned it.

Among the complications are new mechanisms that have never been seen before in watchmaking, among them the double retrograde “rattrapante” chronograph. This new chronograph is read by the user in the same manner as a classic split-seconds chronograph. What makes it unique is the fact that while both hands still work in unison from the same axis, they never actually meet. They operate on two separate scales on opposing sides of the dial.

In this respect, it can best be described as a “detached” split-seconds chronograph, Vacheron Constantin said.

Another new mechanism is the dual-function perpetual calendar, which gives the watch the ability to provide three entirely different perpetual calendar readings, one for the Hebrew calendar and two for the Gregorian.

Vacheron Constantin said due to the long-term changing cycles of the Hebrew calendar and its differences from the Gregorian calendar, the making of a complete, functioning mechanical Hebraic perpetual calendar had been impossible until the Ref. 57260. “Highly complicated mathematical calculations combining both the lunar months and solar year were transcribed into not only an operational mechanism but a display that is elegant, logical and easy to read,” the brand said. “This achievement cannot be overstated as an example of contemporary watchmaking genius.”

The Gregorian perpetual calendar, meanwhile, automatically corrects itself for the appropriate number of days in the month, and the leap years can be read on the dial using the retrograde date, the days of the week and months dials. Two possible options are available for the Gregorian perpetual calendar: either the traditional calendar, or the business calendar system, known as ISO 8601, a numerical system that utilizes 52 weeks and seven days.

When it comes to chiming, the watch has three possible striking modes: striking, where it chimes automatically at each passing quarter hour; night silence, when chiming is automatically disabled for anywhere from eight to 22 hours; and silence, where the chiming can be switched off when it is not desired.

The “armillary” tourbillon cage containing

the watch’s escapement is visible through the aperture beneath the sky chart. The cage received its name because it is reminiscent of the circles and rings of the scientific instrument known as the armillary sphere. It was placed on the second dial side, complementing the astronomical functions to suggest the apparent movement of the stars, sun and the ecliptic around the earth.

The armillary sphere tourbillon was “made of the lightest of materials,” Vacheron Constantin said, to minimize the effects of gravity on the balance wheel, hairspring and pallet fork of the escapement. The tourbillon essentially is a revolving platform and cage upon which the entire escapement is mounted, making one full rotation every minute. In this tourbillon, the escapement is rotated in three planes at once.

 

The Latest

Stock image of shipping containers
Policies & IssuesSep 17, 2026
Tariffs on India Could Increase as Russian Sanctions Bill Heads to Trump’s Desk

The bill has a provision that allows the president to raise tariffs on countries that import Russian oil and gas to as much as 100 percent.

John Carter and Michael Richards
Events & AwardsSep 17, 2026
This Is the Winner of the 2026 Robert M. Shipley Award

The American Gem Society presented the annual award to a former president of its board.

Kevin Patton
Events & AwardsSep 17, 2026
Louisiana Retailer Kevin Patton Wins Lifetime Achievement Award

Jewelers of Louisiana presented Patton, the third-generation president of Pattons Fine Jewelry, with the award at its annual convention.

1872 x 1052 Gemolite.jpg
Brought to you by
Meet Gemology’s Next Generation Microscope: GIA® Gemolite® NXT Professional Edition

Experience gemstones with greater precision and comfort than ever before.

Graphic for episode 9 of My Next Question featuring Pamela Froman and Remy Sasha
PodcastsSep 16, 2026
Episode 9: Remembering Cindy Edelstein

Two special guests join the podcast to commemorate the 10th anniversary of the designer advocate, mentor, and author’s untimely passing.

Weekly QuizSep 10, 2026
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Stock image of police cars with flashing lights
CrimeSep 16, 2026
JSA Issues Warning to NJ Jewelers After Rash of Smash and Grabs

Nine New Jersey jewelers have been victims of smash-and-grab robberies this year, prompting JSA to circulate a list of recommendations.

Brian Hood, president of Bromberg & Co.
IndependentsSep 16, 2026
Bromberg & Co. Names New President

Marlin “Brian” Hood, who has been with the store for 20 years, will succeed Ricky Bromberg, who died earlier this month.

Cover.jpg
Brought to you by
Your Piece Could Be the One Editors Talk About

Submit your pieces for a chance to win in this year's competition.

Midas Chain’s House of Midas Bridal Catalog
MajorsSep 16, 2026
Midas Chain Releases ‘House of Midas’ Bridal Catalog

The new bridal catalog features the latest jewelry collections and designs from timeless classics to modern silhouettes.

Florence Pugh Wearing Bulgari at 2026 Primetime Emmy Awards
EditorsSep 15, 2026
2026 Emmys Jewelry: An Either/Or Proposition

Stars wore either a necklace or earrings at 78th Primetime Emmy Awards but rarely both, Natalie Francisco notes.

Technology Therapy Group founder and CEO Jennifer Shaheen
ColumnistsSep 15, 2026
The Levels Your Website Must Clear Before AI Recommends You

Jennifer Shaheen compares this new era of AI-powered SEO to a video game: your website must clear one level before advancing to the next.

Armadani Retail Support Program Marketing Imagery
IndependentsSep 15, 2026
Armadani Launches Retail Support Program for Holiday Season

The program highlights “Made in Italy” fine jewelry with digital merchandising, sales education, and local marketing support.

Signet Jewelers Joan Hilson
EditorsSep 15, 2026
Q&A: Signet Jewelers’ Joan Hilson on Diamond Demand, the Holidays

Hilson, Signet’s chief operating and financial officer, discussed Q2, resurgent natural diamond demand, and why Blue Nile is a standout.

The Retail Smiths Principal Sherry Smith
ColumnistsSep 14, 2026
Sherry Smith: Stop Waiting for December to Save Your Christmas

The stores that have a great December are the ones that made good decisions in August, September, and October, Sherry Smith writes.

The “Pragnell Kimberley Sunshine Diamond,” 22.09 carats and fancy yellow
AuctionsSep 14, 2026
22 Carats of ‘Sunshine’ Are Up for Auction

The 22.09-carat fancy yellow “Pragnell Kimberley Sunshine Diamond” is part of the fall jewelry sale at Heritage Auctions.

Greenwich St. Jewelers Adornos photography exhibit
IndependentsSep 14, 2026
Greenwich St. Jewelers to Unveil Photography Exhibition

“Adornos: Jewelry, Memory & What We Pass Down” honors the jewelry’s importance to New York City’s Latine communities.

Stock image of rough emeralds mined by Gemfields
SourcingSep 14, 2026
Gemfields Sells All Lots at First Emerald Auction in 9 Months

The company’s managing director of sales said the results demonstrate “continued strong demand for commercial-quality emeralds.”

Kealeboga Pule and Black Coffee
SourcingSep 14, 2026
Diamonds Do Good Pledges Support for Eye Care Program

The nonprofit awarded a grant to the Gift of Sight initiative spearheaded by South African musician Black Coffee.

Greenwich St. Jewelers Scattered Sapphire Cigar Band
CollectionsSep 11, 2026
A Sapphire ‘Stardust’ Ring From Greenwich St. Jewelers

The Latine-owned New York jeweler is marking two milestones this year: its 50th anniversary and the 25th anniversary of the 9/11 attacks.

Make A Wish East Tennessee
MajorsSep 11, 2026
The Wishing Place by JTV Opens

The jewelry retail broadcast network has sponsored a new space for Make-A-Wish East Tennessee on its campus in Knoxville.

The Edge logo
Events & AwardsSep 11, 2026
The Edge Awards Scholarships to 2 Young Jewelry Professionals

The recipients were recognized at the 24 Karat Club of the Southeastern United States’ annual banquet.

Steven Lagos and Keith Rolfe
MajorsSep 10, 2026
Lagos Founder Steven Lagos Steps Down as CEO

Keith Rolfe, CFO and COO of Lagos, is now at the jewelry brand’s helm while Steven takes on the role of executive chairman.

Alberto Perez-Elias mugshot
CrimeSep 10, 2026
FBI Offers $50K Reward for ‘Most Wanted’ Fugitive in $1M Jewelry Heist

Alberto Perez-Elias is one of four men charged in the armed robbery of a Cape Coral, Florida, jewelry store and remains at large.

Kat Florence Paraibas
AuctionsSep 10, 2026
Massive Matched Pair of Paraíba Tourmalines Head to Sotheby’s

The “Kat Florence Luminas” will be offered together as one lot and could fetch up to $637,000.

AGTA logo
SourcingSep 10, 2026
AGTA Announces 4 Newly Elected Directors

Four directors were elected to the AGTA board and will serve three-year terms beginning in February.

New Julien’s Auctions CEO Ken Citron
AuctionsSep 10, 2026
Former Sotheby’s, Christie’s Exec Appointed CEO of Julien’s Auctions

Ken Citron joins the celebrity memorabilia-focused auction house ahead of its first week-long series of events in Abu Dhabi.

Blue Nile Ellipse earrings
FinancialsSep 09, 2026
Signet Jewelers to ‘Double Down’ on Blue Nile Amid Strong Sales

The jewelry retailer said it sees opportunity at higher price points, particularly in natural diamonds for bridal and fashion.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy