Collections

Vacheron creates world’s most complicated watch

CollectionsFeb 07, 2016

Vacheron creates world’s most complicated watch

Commissioned by a private client, Vacheron Constantin’s new Ref. 57260 is a one-of-a-kind, double-dial watch boasting 57 complications and more than 2,800 components.

20151015_VC-complications-Article.jpg
The Ref. 57260 is made in 18-karat white gold, polished with glazed bezels on each side. Each side of the watch also has a dial made of silver, and rotating discs for the displays made of lightweight aluminum.

Geneva--Swiss watchmaker Vacheron Constantin has unveiled what is says is the most complicated watch in the world, a creation nearly nine years in the making.

Called the Ref. 57260, the one-of-a-kind, double-dial pocket watch boasts 57 complications and more than 2,800 components. The brand said it is not releasing the price or value of the timepiece, per the wishes of the anonymous collector who commissioned it.

Among the complications are new mechanisms that have never been seen before in watchmaking, among them the double retrograde “rattrapante” chronograph. This new chronograph is read by the user in the same manner as a classic split-seconds chronograph. What makes it unique is the fact that while both hands still work in unison from the same axis, they never actually meet. They operate on two separate scales on opposing sides of the dial.

In this respect, it can best be described as a “detached” split-seconds chronograph, Vacheron Constantin said.

Another new mechanism is the dual-function perpetual calendar, which gives the watch the ability to provide three entirely different perpetual calendar readings, one for the Hebrew calendar and two for the Gregorian.

Vacheron Constantin said due to the long-term changing cycles of the Hebrew calendar and its differences from the Gregorian calendar, the making of a complete, functioning mechanical Hebraic perpetual calendar had been impossible until the Ref. 57260. “Highly complicated mathematical calculations combining both the lunar months and solar year were transcribed into not only an operational mechanism but a display that is elegant, logical and easy to read,” the brand said. “This achievement cannot be overstated as an example of contemporary watchmaking genius.”

The Gregorian perpetual calendar, meanwhile, automatically corrects itself for the appropriate number of days in the month, and the leap years can be read on the dial using the retrograde date, the days of the week and months dials. Two possible options are available for the Gregorian perpetual calendar: either the traditional calendar, or the business calendar system, known as ISO 8601, a numerical system that utilizes 52 weeks and seven days.

When it comes to chiming, the watch has three possible striking modes: striking, where it chimes automatically at each passing quarter hour; night silence, when chiming is automatically disabled for anywhere from eight to 22 hours; and silence, where the chiming can be switched off when it is not desired.

The “armillary” tourbillon cage containing

the watch’s escapement is visible through the aperture beneath the sky chart. The cage received its name because it is reminiscent of the circles and rings of the scientific instrument known as the armillary sphere. It was placed on the second dial side, complementing the astronomical functions to suggest the apparent movement of the stars, sun and the ecliptic around the earth.

The armillary sphere tourbillon was “made of the lightest of materials,” Vacheron Constantin said, to minimize the effects of gravity on the balance wheel, hairspring and pallet fork of the escapement. The tourbillon essentially is a revolving platform and cage upon which the entire escapement is mounted, making one full rotation every minute. In this tourbillon, the escapement is rotated in three planes at once.

 

The Latest

Gemist new retailer offering
TechnologyMay 01, 2026
Gemist, Saban Onyx Partner on Retailer-Focused Customization Offering

Their partnership combines Gemist’s customization technology with Saban Onyx’s U.S.-based manufacturing capabilities.

Hand putting gas pump in car
SurveysMay 01, 2026
Consumer Confidence Inches Up in April Despite Rising Gas Prices

Respondents were concerned about the Middle East conflict and how it will impact their finances.

The Retail Smiths partner and National Jeweler columnist Peter Smith
ColumnistsApr 30, 2026
Peter Smith: A Sleazy Salesman and the Case for Regret Avoidance

Smith uses a comment he overheard in the grocery store to remind retailers that their job is to inspire buying behavior, not just sell.

Antique Jewelry & Watch Show
Brought to you by
Discover Timeless Treasures: A Showcase of Antique Jewelry & Timepieces in Las Vegas

Gain access to the most exclusive and coveted antique pieces from trusted dealers during Las Vegas Jewelry Week.

Claire’s new summer campaign
MajorsApr 30, 2026
Claire’s New Summer Campaign Is a Sensory Wonderland for Gen Alpha

“A Girl SMR at Claire’s” celebrates girlhood through the five senses with stacked jewelry, slime toys, scented accessories, and ASMR.

Weekly QuizApr 30, 2026
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Cartier London Crash Watch
AuctionsApr 30, 2026
Vintage Cartier Watch Crashes Through Records, Selling for $2M

Believed to be one of three made in 1987, the Cartier London Crash was hot at the “Shapes of Cartier” sale at Sotheby’s Hong Kong.

Police cars
CrimeApr 30, 2026
Masked Group Uses Hammers, Pepper Spray in Texas Jewelry Store Robbery

Officials are looking for a group that robbed Marc Robinson Jewelers at an outlet mall in Round Rock, Texas, in broad daylight on April 21.

lvajws image 1.jpg
Brought to you by
Las Vegas Antique Jewelry & Watch Show: Showcasing the Most Collectible Merchandise from Across the Globe

Gain access to the most exclusive and coveted antique pieces from trusted dealers during Las Vegas Jewelry Week.

OAR26_NJ_bulletin_1872x1052_01.jpg
Supplier BulletinApr 30, 2026
OROAREZZO 2026: The B2B Event for Italian Excellence in Goldsmith, Jewelry and Silver Manufacturing

Sponsored by OROAREZZO International Jewelry Exhibition

Tiffany & Co. Mother’s Day email opt out
TechnologyApr 29, 2026
The Thought Process Behind the Mother's Day Email Opt-Out

Some retailers are taking a nuanced approach to marketing what can be a difficult holiday for many.

Dick Abbott
IndependentsApr 29, 2026
Dick Abbott to Retire From The Edge

The Edge has announced its new CEO, as well as a new partnership with an investment firm focused on founder-led software businesses.

The Venetia Diamond Mine in South Africa
SourcingApr 29, 2026
De Beers’ Production Rises, Market Remains ‘Challenged’

De Beers’ diamond production was up 17 percent in Q1, boosted by increased output at its mines in South Africa and Canada.

John Wayne Signet Ring
AuctionsApr 29, 2026
This'll Be the Day You Own John Wayne's Ring

A signet ring belonging to the Western film star of Hollywood’s Golden Age will be up for auction at Elmwood’s next month.

Stock image of money
Policies & IssuesApr 28, 2026
Tariff Refunds: How to File, What to Expect

Importers can submit claims now to receive money back for the IEEPA tariffs they’ve paid, with refunds expected to take up to 90 days.

Gregory's Jewelers storefront
IndependentsApr 28, 2026
This North Carolina Jeweler Is Passing the Torch

The owners of Gregory Jewelers in Morganton, North Carolina, are heading into retirement.

Doug Hucker
SourcingApr 28, 2026
Doug Hucker Retires From ICA

The colored gemstone industry leader is heading into retirement after four years as the association’s CEO.

Natural Diamond Council Chief Marketing Officer Susie Dewey
SourcingApr 28, 2026
NDC Hires Tapestry Exec to Head Global Marketing

Susie Dewey joins the Natural Diamond Council as its new chief marketing officer.

The Ocean Dream diamond
AuctionsApr 27, 2026
12 Years Later, the ‘Ocean Dream’ Diamond Resurfaces at Christie’s

The largest known fancy vivid blue-green diamond could fetch more than $12 million at its second auction appearance.

Smart Age Solutions CEO and National Jeweler columnist Emmanuel Raheb
ColumnistsApr 27, 2026
Stop Treating Mother’s Day Like an Afterthought

Emmanuel Raheb says jewelers need to start marketing early and make it easy for customers to pick a gift for mom.

Longnecker Jewelry storefront
IndependentsApr 27, 2026
Longnecker Jewelry Celebrates 30 Years

In honor of the milestone, the Nebraska jeweler has debuted Leslie & Co., its new in-house jewelry brand.

Jeff Corey
MajorsApr 27, 2026
JBT Re-Elects Jeff Corey as Board Chair

The trade organization, which held its annual elections earlier this year, also added five new board members.

Fourteen August Irene mom ring
SurveysApr 24, 2026
Mother’s Day 2026 Jewelry Spending to Top $7B, NRF Says

NRF’s annual survey found that 45 percent of consumers plan to purchase jewelry for a loved one this Mother’s Day.

TwentyFour Vault Locket
TechnologyApr 24, 2026
TwentyFour’s Digital-Age Locket Is a Virtual Vault

The “Vault” charm, our Piece of the Week, expands on the memories that can be stored in a locket by connecting to your phone.

Hamptons Jewelry Show exhibitors Maison Mèrenor, Jochen Leën, Studio Javo
Events & AwardsApr 24, 2026
Hamptons Jewelry Show to Return in July

The open-to-the-public luxury jewelry and timepiece show, in its second year, is slated for July 23-26.

Photos from Day’s Jewelers 2025 Mother’s Day campaign
IndependentsApr 23, 2026
Meet the Real Moms of Day’s Jewelers

The jeweler’s Mother’s Day campaign highlights the women who work there—mothers, grandmothers, women who want to be mothers, and dog moms.

National Jeweler - Supplier Bulletin - April 2026 - JMSS Graphic.jpg
Supplier BulletinApr 23, 2026
JM® Shipping Solution: Smarter Shipping for High-Value Goods

Sponsored by Jewelers Mutual

Woman wearing Charles & Colvard lab grown diamond jewelry
Lab-GrownApr 23, 2026
Charles & Colvard May Sell Assets for $1.5M

The proposed agreement follows the moissanite maker’s Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection filing last month.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy