Collections

Vacheron creates world’s most complicated watch

CollectionsFeb 07, 2016

Vacheron creates world’s most complicated watch

Commissioned by a private client, Vacheron Constantin’s new Ref. 57260 is a one-of-a-kind, double-dial watch boasting 57 complications and more than 2,800 components.

20151015_VC-complications-Article.jpg
The Ref. 57260 is made in 18-karat white gold, polished with glazed bezels on each side. Each side of the watch also has a dial made of silver, and rotating discs for the displays made of lightweight aluminum.

Geneva--Swiss watchmaker Vacheron Constantin has unveiled what is says is the most complicated watch in the world, a creation nearly nine years in the making.

Called the Ref. 57260, the one-of-a-kind, double-dial pocket watch boasts 57 complications and more than 2,800 components. The brand said it is not releasing the price or value of the timepiece, per the wishes of the anonymous collector who commissioned it.

Among the complications are new mechanisms that have never been seen before in watchmaking, among them the double retrograde “rattrapante” chronograph. This new chronograph is read by the user in the same manner as a classic split-seconds chronograph. What makes it unique is the fact that while both hands still work in unison from the same axis, they never actually meet. They operate on two separate scales on opposing sides of the dial.

In this respect, it can best be described as a “detached” split-seconds chronograph, Vacheron Constantin said.

Another new mechanism is the dual-function perpetual calendar, which gives the watch the ability to provide three entirely different perpetual calendar readings, one for the Hebrew calendar and two for the Gregorian.

Vacheron Constantin said due to the long-term changing cycles of the Hebrew calendar and its differences from the Gregorian calendar, the making of a complete, functioning mechanical Hebraic perpetual calendar had been impossible until the Ref. 57260. “Highly complicated mathematical calculations combining both the lunar months and solar year were transcribed into not only an operational mechanism but a display that is elegant, logical and easy to read,” the brand said. “This achievement cannot be overstated as an example of contemporary watchmaking genius.”

The Gregorian perpetual calendar, meanwhile, automatically corrects itself for the appropriate number of days in the month, and the leap years can be read on the dial using the retrograde date, the days of the week and months dials. Two possible options are available for the Gregorian perpetual calendar: either the traditional calendar, or the business calendar system, known as ISO 8601, a numerical system that utilizes 52 weeks and seven days.

When it comes to chiming, the watch has three possible striking modes: striking, where it chimes automatically at each passing quarter hour; night silence, when chiming is automatically disabled for anywhere from eight to 22 hours; and silence, where the chiming can be switched off when it is not desired.

The “armillary” tourbillon cage containing

the watch’s escapement is visible through the aperture beneath the sky chart. The cage received its name because it is reminiscent of the circles and rings of the scientific instrument known as the armillary sphere. It was placed on the second dial side, complementing the astronomical functions to suggest the apparent movement of the stars, sun and the ecliptic around the earth.

The armillary sphere tourbillon was “made of the lightest of materials,” Vacheron Constantin said, to minimize the effects of gravity on the balance wheel, hairspring and pallet fork of the escapement. The tourbillon essentially is a revolving platform and cage upon which the entire escapement is mounted, making one full rotation every minute. In this tourbillon, the escapement is rotated in three planes at once.

 

The Latest

Set of four Patek Philippe “Star Caliber 2000” pocket watches
AuctionsSep 17, 2025
Mythical Set of Patek Philippe Pocket Watches Expected to Sell for $10M+

A set of four Patek Philippe “Star Caliber 2000” pocket watches is part of Sotheby’s upcoming auction in Abu Dhabi.

Journey of a Jeweler by Silvia Furmanovich
TrendsSep 17, 2025
Silvia Furmanovich’s Book Tells the ‘Journey of a Jeweler’

The Brazilian jeweler’s latest book marks her namesake brand’s 25th anniversary and tells the tale of her worldwide collaborations.

1978 Rolex Submariner Ref. 1680 Tiffany Dial
WatchesSep 17, 2025
Bob’s Watches Acquires Vintage Rolex Won on ‘The Price is Right’

The Submariner Ref. 1680 with a Tiffany & Co. dial came from the original owner, who won it as a prize on the game show in the 1970s.

reDollar-fine-jewelry-department.jpg
Brought to you by
reDollar.com Is Rolling Out the Next Level Jewelry, Diamond & Watch Consignment Program

With their unmatched services and low fees, reDollar.com is challenging some big names in the online consignment world.

Jewelers Mutual Group logo
TechnologySep 17, 2025
Jewelers Mutual Launches Shipping Solution App for Shopify

The new integration allows users to manage shipments directly from the Shopify dashboard.

Weekly QuizSep 12, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Shot of one of the pools at the Omni La Costa Resort & Spa in Carlsbad, California
EditorsSep 16, 2025
Out & About: 7 Great Quotes From Converge in Carlsbad

At Converge 2025, Editor-in-Chief Michelle Graff attended sessions on DEI, tariffs, security, and more. Here are her top takeaways.

Crime police cars
CrimeSep 16, 2025
2 Robbery Suspects Killed in California Pawn Shop Shootout

Six people were shot last week at an Oakland cash-for-gold shop as employees exchanged gunfire with individuals trying to rob the store.

japac-btyb.png
Brought to you by
Rallying Call for the Jewelry Industry on Tariffs and Other Key Issues

Jewelers of America is leading the charge to protect the industry amidst rising economic threats.

Natural Diamond Council Retailer Accreditation Program seal
SourcingSep 16, 2025
Natural Diamond Council Launches Retailer Accreditation Program

Ben Bridge Jeweler and Lux Bond & Green were a part of the pilot program. 

Kristen Bell, Angela Bassett, Lisa Manobal
EditorsSep 15, 2025
Skipping the Necklace, Embracing Snakes: The Best Jewelry From the 2025 Emmy Awards

Associate Editor Natalie Francisco shares eight of her favorite jewelry looks from the 77th annual Primetime Emmy Awards, held Sunday night.

Holiday presents in gift boxes
SurveysSep 15, 2025
Resilient Shoppers to Boost Holiday Retail Sales, Says Deloitte

It’s predicting a rise in retail sales this holiday season despite economic uncertainty and elevated inflation.

Buffalo Emerald
SourcingSep 15, 2025
Gemfields Achieves $32M at High-Quality Emerald Auction

It included the sale of the 11,685-carat “Imboo” emerald that was recently discovered at Kagem.

8.33-carat emerald-cut no-oil Brazilian emerald, A. Kleiman & Co.
SourcingSep 15, 2025
AGTA Elects 8 Members to Board of Directors

The newly elected directors will officially take office in February 2026 and will be introduced at the organization’s membership meeting.

Rough montana sapphire
EditorsSep 12, 2025
Out & About: Mining Sapphires in Rock Creek, Montana

Associate Editor Lauren McLemore headed out West for a visit to Potentate Mining’s operation hosted by gemstone wholesaler Parlé Gems.

Arunashi Fordite and Rhodolite Earrings
TrendsSep 12, 2025
Piece of the Week: Arunashi’s Fordite and Rhodolite Earrings

Fordite is a man-made material created from the layers of dried enamel paint that dripped onto the floors of automotive factories.

Susan Jacques and Al Gilbertson
Events & AwardsSep 12, 2025
Al Gilbertson Wins 2025 Robert M. Shipley Award

Gilbertson has worked as a researcher, jeweler, lapidary artist, appraiser, and business owner throughout his decades in the industry.

Supreme Court stock image
Policies & IssuesSep 11, 2025
Supreme Court to Hear Tariffs Case in November

A decision likely won’t come until January 2026 at the earliest, and the tariffs remain in effect until then.

Tabayer’s Nordstrom Shop-in-Shop
MajorsSep 11, 2025
Tabayer Opens Nordstrom Shop-In-Shop

Located in the revamped jewelry hall at the retailer’s New York City flagship, this opening is Tabayer’s first shop-in-shop.

De Beers education app on mobile phone
SourcingSep 11, 2025
Need to Sell More Natural Diamonds? De Beers Has an App for That

The new, free app offers accessible educational content, like games and podcasts, for U.S. retailers.

Gold jewelry on a scale
MajorsSep 10, 2025
Stuller to Swap Gold Scrap for Full Credit to Account

As the gold price rises, the manufacturer is offering a 100 percent payout through Sept. 30 for gold clean scrap.

Jacob and Co Loewe headphones
SourcingSep 10, 2025
Tech Meets Style in the New Loewe x Jacob & Co. Headphones

Jacob & Co. partnered with the German technology company on two pairs of headphones, one set with diamonds and the other with sapphires.

Tiffany & Co Favrile Beetle Necklace in Frankenstein
TrendsSep 10, 2025
Tiffany & Co. Archival Jewels Bring Life to ‘Frankenstein’

Guillermo del Toro’s 2025 “Frankenstein” will feature 27 jewels and objects from the storied brand, including pieces from its archives.

24 Karat Club banquet
MajorsSep 10, 2025
24 Karat Club of New York’s Banquet to Return to Waldorf Astoria

The Waldorf Astoria New York’s grand reopening this past summer means a homecoming for the industry group’s annual event.

Anglo American’s Quellaveco copper mine in Peru
SourcingSep 09, 2025
Anglo American to Merge With Canadian Copper Miner

Anglo plans to merge with Teck Resources Ltd. to form Anglo Teck. The deal changes nothing about its plans to offload De Beers.

The Mellon Blue diamond
AuctionsSep 09, 2025
‘The Mellon Blue’ to Return to Auction, This Time at Christie’s

The 9.51-carat fancy vivid blue diamond, which set two world auction records at Sotheby’s in 2014, is estimated to fetch up to $30 million.

Dianne Batista Phillips Auctions
AuctionsSep 09, 2025
Phillips Names Dianne Batista Head of Jewels, New York

The industry veteran joins the auction house as it looks to solidify its footprint in the jewelry market.

Anastacia Lauren, Elle Jerge, Logan Nye
MajorsSep 09, 2025
MJSA Education Foundation Announces 2025 Scholarship Winners

The nonprofit awarded four students pursuing a professional career in jewelry making and design with $2,250 each.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy