Collections

Vacheron creates world’s most complicated watch

CollectionsFeb 07, 2016

Vacheron creates world’s most complicated watch

Commissioned by a private client, Vacheron Constantin’s new Ref. 57260 is a one-of-a-kind, double-dial watch boasting 57 complications and more than 2,800 components.

20151015_VC-complications-Article.jpg
The Ref. 57260 is made in 18-karat white gold, polished with glazed bezels on each side. Each side of the watch also has a dial made of silver, and rotating discs for the displays made of lightweight aluminum.

Geneva--Swiss watchmaker Vacheron Constantin has unveiled what is says is the most complicated watch in the world, a creation nearly nine years in the making.

Called the Ref. 57260, the one-of-a-kind, double-dial pocket watch boasts 57 complications and more than 2,800 components. The brand said it is not releasing the price or value of the timepiece, per the wishes of the anonymous collector who commissioned it.

Among the complications are new mechanisms that have never been seen before in watchmaking, among them the double retrograde “rattrapante” chronograph. This new chronograph is read by the user in the same manner as a classic split-seconds chronograph. What makes it unique is the fact that while both hands still work in unison from the same axis, they never actually meet. They operate on two separate scales on opposing sides of the dial.

In this respect, it can best be described as a “detached” split-seconds chronograph, Vacheron Constantin said.

Another new mechanism is the dual-function perpetual calendar, which gives the watch the ability to provide three entirely different perpetual calendar readings, one for the Hebrew calendar and two for the Gregorian.

Vacheron Constantin said due to the long-term changing cycles of the Hebrew calendar and its differences from the Gregorian calendar, the making of a complete, functioning mechanical Hebraic perpetual calendar had been impossible until the Ref. 57260. “Highly complicated mathematical calculations combining both the lunar months and solar year were transcribed into not only an operational mechanism but a display that is elegant, logical and easy to read,” the brand said. “This achievement cannot be overstated as an example of contemporary watchmaking genius.”

The Gregorian perpetual calendar, meanwhile, automatically corrects itself for the appropriate number of days in the month, and the leap years can be read on the dial using the retrograde date, the days of the week and months dials. Two possible options are available for the Gregorian perpetual calendar: either the traditional calendar, or the business calendar system, known as ISO 8601, a numerical system that utilizes 52 weeks and seven days.

When it comes to chiming, the watch has three possible striking modes: striking, where it chimes automatically at each passing quarter hour; night silence, when chiming is automatically disabled for anywhere from eight to 22 hours; and silence, where the chiming can be switched off when it is not desired.

The “armillary” tourbillon cage containing

the watch’s escapement is visible through the aperture beneath the sky chart. The cage received its name because it is reminiscent of the circles and rings of the scientific instrument known as the armillary sphere. It was placed on the second dial side, complementing the astronomical functions to suggest the apparent movement of the stars, sun and the ecliptic around the earth.

The armillary sphere tourbillon was “made of the lightest of materials,” Vacheron Constantin said, to minimize the effects of gravity on the balance wheel, hairspring and pallet fork of the escapement. The tourbillon essentially is a revolving platform and cage upon which the entire escapement is mounted, making one full rotation every minute. In this tourbillon, the escapement is rotated in three planes at once.

 

The Latest

Woman with crossed hands and rings on fingers
FinancialsJun 02, 2026
Signet Jewelers’ Q1 Sales Up 2% As It Focuses on ‘Core Four’

The jewelry retailer is zeroing in on Zales, Jared, Kay Jewelers, and Blue Nile as it looks to create unique brand identities for each.

Dr. Akinwumi Adesina, chairperson of the Diamonds for Development Fund
SourcingJun 02, 2026
Leader Appointed for Botswana’s Diamonds for Development Fund

Dr. Akinwumi Adesina, a development economist, will head the fund created to help Botswana diversify its economy.

James Marks
WatchesJun 02, 2026
Watch Industry Veteran James Marks Joins Sotheby’s

Sotheby’s has appointed the former Phillips executive as its global head of private sales and retail in its watches division.

PG-05-SHOT-2-LUCIDA.033 1.png
Brought to you by
All Eyes on Gold Prices. Alternatives to Look For. And What to BEWARE of in Vegas

As gold prices rise, today’s retailers are looking for alternatives at prices that will appeal to wider audiences.

Sothebys 10-carat blue diamond, 120 carat Harry Winston diamond necklace
AuctionsJun 02, 2026
Sotheby’s to Auction 10-Carat Blue Diamond, 1960s Harry Winston Necklace

A private collection of five Paraíba tourmalines also will be up for sale at Sotheby’s High Jewelry auction in New York, scheduled for June 16.

Weekly QuizMay 28, 2026
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
People shopping in a jewelry store
IndependentsJun 02, 2026
State of Retail: 6 Things Retailers Should Know About Consumers Today

From Gen Z’s view of luxury to “doom spending,” these are the six consumer trends to note this year.

Zahn-Z Big Zaha Art Deco Ring
Events & AwardsJun 01, 2026
Design Atelier Brands Have a Big Night at Emotional Couture Design Awards

The show started by honoring Mildred Marcano, ended with a tearful Beth Anne Bonanno, and recognized a dozen-plus designers in between.

1872x1052-NextGem-2026-National-Jeweler-Advertorial.jpg
Brought to you by
How Modern Training Is Becoming a Competitive Advantage for Jewelry Retailers

With the trade and customer trust in mind, GIA® developed NextGem™ – on-demand training designed specifically for retail.

Rapaport's rebranding
SourcingJun 01, 2026
RapNet Rebranding as Rapaport Trade

The revamped online diamond marketplace will feature pricing intelligence and data-driven tools for more efficient buying and selling.

Gemfields emeralds
SourcingJun 01, 2026
Gemfields’ Higher-Quality Emerald Auction Achieves $26.8M

The miner said demand for higher-quality emeralds is stable, but there is notable caution in the market.

Sean Dunn, Amy Greenberg, Elise Greenberg, Coleman Clark, Mitchell Clark
IndependentsMay 29, 2026
Meet the 2026 Retailer Hall of Fame Inductees

This year’s inductees include second-, third-, and fourth-generation jewelers.

Jesse Itzler
Events & AwardsMay 28, 2026
JCK Announces Jesse Itzler as 2026 Keynote Speaker

The author, speaker, and entrepreneur will give his presentation, “Spiritual Billionaire,” on Saturday morning.

JCK Rocks Nelly Graphic
Events & AwardsMay 28, 2026
JCK Rocks To Ride With Nelly

Three-time Grammy award-winning artist Nelly is set to perform at the annual event at Tao Beach on Sunday night.

A screen shot of The Clear Cut's website
MajorsMay 28, 2026
Signet Jewelers to Buy The Clear Cut

Signet will integrate the online-only, natural diamond-focused jeweler into Blue Nile, which it wants to position as a higher-end retailer.

GCAL 8x Cushion Cut diamond
GradingMay 28, 2026
GCAL By Sarine Launches 8X Cushion Cut

The lab’s proprietary diamond cut grade has been expanded to include the popular fancy shape.

Stock image of police cars with their lights on
Events & AwardsMay 27, 2026
5 Security Tips for Las Vegas Jewelry Market Week 2026

This year, it’s what could happen outside of show hours that worries JSA Executive Vice President Scott Guginsky.

Smart Age Solutions CEO and National Jeweler columnist Emmanuel Raheb
ColumnistsMay 27, 2026
What Jewelers Can Learn From Luxury Fashion’s Digital Playbook

High-end fashion houses know how to emotionally connect with customers online. Retail jewelers should take note, Emmanuel Raheb writes.

Couture The Iridescence designers Aziza-Abdullah Nicole, Cindy Liebe, Danyell Roscoe, Jessica Liu, Marie Helena from Rebel Jewelry, Julia de Souza, and Xiao Wang
Events & AwardsMay 27, 2026
Couture’s ‘The Iridescence’ Will Showcase 7 Emerging Jewelry Designers

The designers are the third cohort of mentees from the show’s Belonging @ Couture mentorship program.

National Jeweler columnist Sherry Smith, partner at The Retail Smiths
ColumnistsMay 26, 2026
The Key Mindset for Better Trade Show Buying

Buying discipline at trade shows starts with clarity about your inventory levels, Smith writes.

JCK Talks panel on stage
Events & AwardsMay 26, 2026
12 JCK Talks Sessions to Add to Your Las Vegas Schedule

The trade show’s education series returns, with sessions on retail trends, AI, watches, marketing, corporate responsibility, and more.

CBG Curated Designer Project Logo
Events & AwardsMay 26, 2026
CBG Brings Its Curated Designer Project to Las Vegas Show

The Curated Designer Project has expanded to highlight eight independent jewelry designers during CBG’s Las Vegas show.

Walters Faith
TrendsMay 26, 2026
Amanda’s Style File: A Cooldown Is Coming

Bring a cool tone to your summer jewelry with these white metal pieces.

Shot of attendees at a JA New York jewelry trade show
Events & AwardsMay 22, 2026
Instore Buys JA New York Show

The deal closed this week, which means Instore will produce the JA NY show slated to take place this fall.

Buccellati Waikiki gold and diamond earrings
FinancialsMay 22, 2026
Richemont’s Jewelry Brands Lead the Charge in Q4

The company’s jewelry sales were up in Q4 and the fiscal year, with Richemont raising prices in part because of the cost of gold.

Leigh Maxwell Bauble Earrings
CollectionsMay 22, 2026
Leigh Maxwell Celebrates 5 Years at Couture With ‘Bauble’ Collection

The “Bauble” capsule collection of colorful one-of-a-kinds includes our Piece of the Week, the “Bauble” earrings, featuring rose zircon.

Stuller 2026-2027 packaging and display catalog
MajorsMay 22, 2026
Stuller’s New Packaging, Display Catalog Is Out

The updated catalog has a newly dedicated section for gift wrapping.

My Next Question, Episode 5: Amanda Gizzi, Michelle Graff, Frank Everett
PodcastsMay 21, 2026
Episode 5: Sotheby’s Frank Everett Puts the Auction Market in Perspective

Everett covers colored stones’ surging popularity, the mellow return of the “Mellon Blue,” and his “The Devil Wears Prada” doppelgänger.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy