Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel is a character in the “Coco Game” collection of watches and the queen in its first haute horlogerie chessboard.
Pandora Cuts More Retailers, US Sales Up 13%
The bead and jewelry brand cut 55 of what it’s now classifying as “multi-branded” retailers in the first quarter.

Copenhagen, Denmark--Pandora has changed its financial reporting structure, though its overall objective remains the same: to pump up brand recognition by investing in concept stores and shop-in-shops while decreasing its presence in multi-brand jewelry stores.
Previously, Pandora classified its points of sale as “branded” and “unbranded.”
Branded stores were the concept stores, shop-in-shops and gold-level retailers--the multi-brand retailers with a “strong Pandora profile.”
The unbranded points of sale, meanwhile, were the silver, white and travel-level retailers. Silver and white retailers are those carrying a medium or limited assortment of Pandora jewelry, respectively. Between Q4 2014 and Q4 2015, Pandora pulled its jewelry from nearly 38 percent of such shops in the Americas.
Now, Pandora groups gold retailers in the same category as silver, white and travel-level retailers, classifying them all as “multi-branded” points of sale.
According to the jewelry company’s interim report for the first quarter 2016, released Tuesday, Pandora started the quarter with 1,838 multi-branded points of sale in the Americas and ended it with 1,783, a decrease of 55.
The company did not disclose how many of the 55 accounts closed were gold-level vs. silver-, white- or travel-level retailers.
Pandora’s decision to pull its jewelry from multi-brand stores is the continuation of a trend, though it does represent a slowdown in the pace of closures. Last year, Pandora closed accounts at 100 or more “unbranded” doors every quarter.
Sales-wise, the bead and jewelry brand saw U.S. revenue rise 13 percent year-over-year in the first quarter.
Sales in the Americas region as a whole also grew 13 percent (in local currency), from $240.8 million to $271.7 million.
The expansion of the network, including the addition of Pandora’s online store and the opening of new concept stores, drove revenue growth. Also helping was the initial sell-in to Jared the Galleria of Jewelry, which added $7.7 million to the bottom line. Pandora plans to build out shop-in-shops at more than 200 Jared stores this year.
Sales at Pandora’s shop-in-shops were down 27 percent year-over-year; the company said they were up against difficult comps from the first quarter last year, which included the initial sell-in of the Disney collection.
Sales at existing concept stores reversed their decline, rising 2 percent.
The Americas generated 37 percent of Pandora’s global revenue in Q1, down from 44 percent in the prior-year period.
Globally, Pandora recorded sales of $726.2 million, a 34
Gross margin increased from 71.1 percent to 74.6 percent, while net profit jumped from $58.7 million to $200.2 million, though Pandora noted that a $55.7 million tax expense and higher financial costs impacted first quarter net profit last year.
Commenting on the first quarter in a company release, Pandora CEO Anders Colding Friis said, “We have had a very strong start to the year, with all geographic regions, as well as all product categories, delivering double-digit growth rates. Revenue growth was driven by growth in our existing stores … as well as continued expansion of the concept store network across all regions.”
The Latest

The annual list honors rising professionals on the retail and supply sides of the jewelry industry.

Seized in Kentucky, the packages include fake Cartier, Tiffany & Co., Chanel, and Fendi jewelry.

Gain access to the most exclusive and coveted antique pieces from trusted dealers during Las Vegas Jewelry Week.

Rodolfo Lopez-Portillo faces 25 years to life in prison after being found guilty in the March 2022 beating death of Arasb Shoughi.


“Jewelry Creators: Dynamic Duos and Generational Gems” highlights the relationships among 22 influential designers, brands, and gem dealers.

The AJS Spring 2027 show will be held in Savannah, Georgia, with future shows taking place in other Southeast cities.

Gain access to the most exclusive and coveted antique pieces from trusted dealers during Las Vegas Jewelry Week.

The jewelry retailer plans to open 20 new stores this year and expand into new product categories.

Flower motifs are the jewelry trend blooming amongst the new collections that debuted this spring.

The retailer reported an 8 percent decline in annual sales as it struggles under the weight of billions of dollars of debt.

The “Devil” drop earrings, our Piece of the Week, are part of designer Edina Kiss’ new namesake jewelry line that she will show at Couture.

The alert states that burglary crews are targeting jewelry businesses and details how jewelers and refineries can protect themselves.

The “watchmaker of shapes” debuted the reworked version of the vintage sports car-inspired timepiece at Watches & Wonders.

As demand for jewelry retail coaching grows, the company has established a dedicated business coaching leadership team.

The “Mountings 2026-2027” catalog showcases Stuller’s largest and most diverse assortment to date with more than 400 new mounting styles.

Sally Morrison and Mark Klein discuss De Beers’ first beacon in 16 years and the mistake the industry made with lab-grown diamonds.

McKenzie spent 45 years with Spark Creations and is remembered for being kind, dedicated, and hardworking.

Rolex focused exclusively on the Oyster Perpetual this year, as the model is celebrating its 100th anniversary.

Kalpesh Jhaveri was re-elected as president for a third year.

“Diamond Divas,” a social media reality series by Shahla Karimi Jewelry, is nominated in the “Best Social: Fashion & Beauty” category.

The campaign seeks to reignite desire for natural diamond engagement rings by highlighting the “distinct character” of warm-toned diamonds.

Presented by Mason-Kay Jade, the summit, in its second year, will again be held during the Monterey Bay Jade Festival.

The group has announced its lineup of speakers and a new “Rising Stars” pavilion.

The “Carbon Form” collection explores the contrast between high and low materials, using rubber cord alongside 18-karat gold and gemstones.

The program provides essential funding to organizations for projects that enhance the jewelry industry.

The jewelry trade show is launching its first open-to-the-public event in Coconut Grove this November.




















