The brooch, our Piece of the Week, shows the chromatic spectrum through a holographic coating on rock crystal.
5 Industry Observations Based on the Latest JBT Data
Jewelers Board of Trade President Erich Jacobs talked with National Jeweler about continuing trends in the jewelry industry, a K-shaped recovery and his expectations for Q4.

New York—The Jewelers Board of Trade’s data for the third quarter is out, and it shows that not much has changed from Q2.
COVID-19 has created an environment of uncertainty, leaving business owners unsure what to do next and making it difficult to make predictions about the fourth quarter, traditionally the most important period of the year for retailers.
Last week, National Jeweler caught up with JBT President Erich Jacobs (virtually, of course) to talk more about these unknowns and how they impacted the industry in Q3, as well as what he expects in Q4.
1) Business discontinuances stayed low in Q3.
In the U.S. in the third quarter, 55 jewelry businesses closed, bringing the total to 399 for the year. That is down 11 percent from last year, when 450 businesses had shuttered by this point.
Among retailers, closures have totaled 325 so far in 2020, down 10 percent year-over-year.
Jacobs said the fact that fewer businesses are closing this year is not an indicator that the industry is healthier.
It is, instead, a continuation of what started in Q2.
The “unique” economic environment is keeping some businesses from formally closing even if that is where they are headed, he said. And it is making it difficult for the JBT to distinguish between temporarily and permanently closed businesses.
Some might be considering a going-out-of-business sale but don’t want to run one in this environment, while other stores are hanging on, waiting to see if they can recover from decreased business during the pandemic.
Still others are getting rent breaks from their landlord, who know they won’t be able to fill the space right now anyway, but won’t be able to stay open long term.
The unprecedented nature of 2020 also is impacting the number of bankruptcies and consolidations, as courts are moving more slowly than usual, and companies remain hesitant to make deals in an uncertain environment.
There were 37 consolidations (sales and mergers) among U.S. jewelry businesses in Q3, bringing the total for the year to 93. That is down 27 percent from 2019.
Bankruptcies totaled 101 in Q3 and have hit 514 for the year, a 14 percent year-over-year drop.
2) K marks the spot.
Jacobs said JBT subscribes to the philosophy that the economic recovery is K-shaped.
In a K-shaped recovery, the wealthiest Americans are rebounding; some are even doing better
Middle- and lower-income Americans, meanwhile, are hurting; they are the lower leg of the K.
Jacobs said he sees some parallels in the jewelry industry.
There are some stores that are having “banner years,” as some of the disposable income not being spent on travel gravitates to fine jewelry, while others are saying this is their worst year ever.
3) Businesses that didn’t build up their online presence are paying.
To better understand the differences between the businesses on the upper and lower legs of the K, JBT conducted a brief, informal study.
The staff examined posts on social media and other industry platforms to order to identify commonalities among the stores that report they are doing well, as well as the similarities among stores that aren’t.
Among the stores having a rough year, there was a bold through line.
“Those who were struggling had zero online presence,” Jacobs said, meaning they lacked both e-commerce capability and a sizable social media following.
“Everyone that was struggling had neither of those. That was the common factor.”
4) Not surprisingly, there still aren’t a ton of people rushing to open businesses in 2020.
The number of new retailers, wholesalers and manufacturers listed by the JBT is down significantly this year.
So far this year in the U.S., JBT data shows a total of 112 new jewelry businesses have opened, including 42 in the third quarter. That is a 40 percent drop from this point last year, when there were 186 new businesses, including 61 in Q3.
Overall, the size of the industry continues to shrink.
The total number of jewelry businesses in the U.S., as listed by JBT, stands at 24,258, including 18,375 retailers, both down 3 percent year-over-year.
Including Canada, the total is 25,573, down 3 percent from 26,344 at this point in 2019.
5) The holiday season is a big question mark.
“Q4 is the great unknown,” said Jacobs.
As of this writing, the COVID-19 infection rate is rising and the presidential election has yet to be decided, as has the fate of a second stimulus package.
Late last month, the National Retail Federation was among the more than 200 trade associations that sent a letter to Congress advocating for passage of additional pandemic relief for consumers and businesses.
Jacobs also noted that a stimulus could be a boost for retailers this holiday season.
“The stimulus might be a driver for consumer confidence, which in turn can be a driver for discretionary purchases,” he said.
The Latest

Raised in an orphanage, Bailey was 18 when she met her husband, Clyde. They opened their North Carolina jewelry store in 1948.

Smith encourages salespeople to ask customers questions that elicit the release of oxytocin, the brain’s “feel-good” chemical.

Launched in 2023, the program will help the passing of knowledge between generations and alleviate the shortage of bench jewelers.

Material Good is celebrating its 10th anniversary as it opens its new store in the Back Bay neighborhood of Boston.


The show will be held March 26-30 at the Miami Beach Convention Center.

The estate of the model, philanthropist, and ex-wife of Johnny Carson has signed statement jewels up for sale at John Moran Auctioneers.

Criminals are using cell jammers to disable alarms, but new technology like JamAlert™ can stop them.

Are arm bands poised to make a comeback? Has red-carpet jewelry become boring? Find out on the second episode of the “My Next Question” podcast.

It will lead distribution in North America for Graziella Braccialini's new gold pieces, which it said are 50 percent lighter.

The organization is seeking a new executive director to lead it into its next phase of strategic growth and industry influence.

The nonprofit will present a live, two-hour introductory course on building confidence when selling colored gemstones.

Western wear continues to trend in the Year of the Fire Horse and along with it, horse and horseshoe motifs in jewelry.
![A peridot [left] and sapphires from Tanzania from Anza Gems, a wholesaler that partners with artisanal mining communities in East Africa Anza gems](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/cdd3962e9427ff45f69b31e06baf830d.jpg)
Although the market is robust, tariffs and precious metal prices are impacting the industry, Stuart Robertson and Brecken Branstrator said.

Rossman, who advised GIA for more than 50 years, is remembered for his passion and dedication to the field of gemology.

Guthrie, the mother of “Today” show host Savannah Guthrie, was abducted just as the Tucson gem shows were starting.

Butterfield Jewelers in Albuquerque, New Mexico, is preparing to close as members of the Butterfield family head into retirement.

Paul Morelli’s “Rosebud” necklace, our Piece of the Week, uses 18-karat rose, green, and white gold to turn the symbol of love into jewelry.

The nonprofit has welcomed four new grantees for 2026.

Parent company Saks Global is also closing nearly all Saks Off 5th locations, a Neiman Marcus store, and 14 personal styling suites.

It is believed the 24-karat heart-shaped enameled pendant was made for an event marking the betrothal of Princess Mary in 1518.

The AGTA Spectrum and Cutting Edge “Buyer’s Choice” award winners were announced at the Spectrum Awards Gala last week.

The “Kering Generation Award x Jewelry” returns for its second year with “Second Chance, First Choice” as its theme.

Sourced by For Future Reference Vintage, the yellow gold ring has a round center stone surrounded by step-cut sapphires.

The clothing and accessories chain announced last month it would be closing all of its stores.

The “Zales x Sweethearts” collection features three mystery heart charms engraved with classic sayings seen on the Valentine’s Day candies.

The event will include panel discussions, hands-on demonstrations of new digital manufacturing tools, and a jewelry design contest.




















