Auctions

Sotheby’s Brings Back ‘Brilliant & Black’ Selling Exhibition

AuctionsSep 08, 2022

Sotheby’s Brings Back ‘Brilliant & Black’ Selling Exhibition

The exhibition is larger in scale this year and has a new theme, Enlightenment.

20220908_Sothebys-header.jpg
Sotheby’s “Brilliant & Black: The Age of Enlightenment” exhibition will showcase 70 pieces from 25 contemporary Black jewelry designers at its London gallery from Sept. 22 to Oct. 2. Pictured is an owl cuff from one of the exhibition’s returning designers, Lauren Harwell Godfrey.
London—A year after it launched its groundbreaking selling exhibition “Brilliant & Black: A Jewellery Renaissance,” Sotheby’s is bringing it back with more designers and a different theme.

For last year’s event, Sotheby’s partnered with jewelry writer, 2022 Gem Award winner, and curator Melanie Grant to highlight the skill, imagination, and craftsmanship of Black jewelry designers from the 1950s to the present.

The second edition of the exhibition will open at Sotheby’s London gallery later this month, coinciding with Black History Month in the U.K.

The auction house again has partnered with Grant for “Brilliant & Black: The Age of Enlightenment,” which is set to be even bigger than last year’s New York show, offering more than 70 pieces from 25 contemporary designers.

The returning designers from last year’s exhibition are: Melanie Eddy, Lola Fenhirst, Harwell Godfrey, Sheryl Jones, Vania Leles, Angie Marei, Satta Matturi, Johnny Nelson, Jariet Oloye-Oduto, Jacqueline Rabun, Catherine Sarr, Maggi Simpkins, Karen Smith, Ten Thousand Things, Lorraine West, Thelma West and Castro NYC.

The man behind Castro NYC, Terry Castro, died unexpectedly in July, shocking the industry and leaving many mourning the death of a talented artist whose star was on the rise.

His work is being exhibited courtesy of his family.

20220908_Sothebys-insert.jpg
This theme of this year’s “Brilliant & Black” exhibition is Enlightenment, reflecting the present period of “modern enlightenment, exploring the depth and breadth of our talent today for all those who don’t have a voice or opportunity to do so themselves,” curator Melanie Grant said.

New to the exhibition this year are eight designers: Disa Allsopp, Latoya Boyd, Shola Branson, Ndidi Eubia, Gina Love, Pascale Marthine Tayou via Elisabetta Cipriani gallery, Roxanne Rajcommar-Hadden, and Sewit Sium. 

Sotheby’s said all the participating artists have created one new piece that is a nod to the exhibition’s theme, Enlightenment, a period Grant described as, “a time of growth, individualism and intellectual reason.”

In a release from Sotheby’s about the exhibition, she elaborated.

“So much of history repeats itself, and for me this second exhibition is about our expansion from that moment of conception in New York last September. In practical terms, this has involved inviting eight new artists to take part, bringing our roster to 25. As we forge ahead, having showcased the talents of old masters Art Smith and Winifred Mason last time, only contemporary artists will now be featured because this show is about the future and where we go from here.

 Related stories will be right here … 

“The tsunami of interest we experienced in Black creativity may be quieter now, but we cannot forget its lessons. There are fears that as things return to normal, our efforts to elevate Black design will be eclipsed by more recent events, but the work is too good and, once seen, never forgotten …  We are in a period of enlightenment. A modern enlightenment exploring the depth and breadth of our talent today for all those who don’t have a voice or opportunity to do so themselves.

“I want to thank all the collectors who continue to support us and to Sotheby’s, to whom I am eternally grateful. The best is yet to come.”

All the jewels will be on display at the Sotheby’s New Bond Street Galleries from Sept. 22 to Oct. 2. A smaller selection of pieces will remain available for viewing through the end of October.

They all will be available for purchase in person or online through the Buy Now marketplace at Sothebys.com.

Brecken Branstratoris the senior editor, gemstones at National Jeweler, covering sourcing, pricing and other developments in the colored stone sector.

The Latest

Coleman Clark and Mitchell Clark
IndependentsOct 14, 2026
Retailer Hall of Fame 2026: Coleman and Mitchell Clark

Fourth-generation jewelers Coleman and Mitchell Clark exemplify the best qualities of their predecessors: humility, modesty, and confidence.

Manual Marcial de Gomar
SourcingOct 14, 2026
Manuel Marcial de Gomar, ‘The Emerald Whisperer,’ Dies at 90

The gem hunter, whose 70-year career was defined by adventure and exploration, is remembered for his steadfast faith and sense of wonder.

Tiffany & Co.’s Blue Box Café by Daniel Boulud at South Coast Plaza
FinancialsOct 14, 2026
LVMH’s Jewelry Brands Turn in ‘Very Good’ Performance in Q3

Tiffany & Co. continued its full-scale store renovation project while Bulgari’s high jewelry collection generated “record-breaking revenue.”

1872 x 1052 Gemolite.jpg
Brought to you by
Meet Gemology’s Next Generation Microscope: GIA® Gemolite® NXT Professional Edition

Experience gemstones with greater precision and comfort than ever before.

Chicago Responsible Jewelry Conference 2026 Graphic
Events & AwardsOct 14, 2026
Chicago Responsible Jewelry Conference Releases 2026 Program

This year’s sessions feature leading voices from human rights, legal, and conservation organizations.

Weekly QuizOct 08, 2026
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Lugano Diamonds Greenwich Connecticut store
MajorsOct 13, 2026
David Webb Owner Purchases Lugano Jewelry

The high-end jewelry retailer was sold to private investment firm Middle West Partners and a group of longtime clients.

Stephanie Gottlieb Wholesale Lab-Grown Collection
Lab-GrownOct 13, 2026
Stephanie Gottlieb Takes Lab-Grown Diamond Collection Wholesale

The jewelry designer has partnered with Sofer Jewelry to distribute her 85-piece lab-grown diamond collection.

Cover.jpg
Brought to you by
Your Piece Could Be the One Editors Talk About

Submit your pieces for a chance to win in this year's competition.

Sean Dunn
IndependentsOct 13, 2026
Retailer Hall of Fame 2026: Sean Dunn

Dunn, this year’s Single-Store Independent inductee, is passionate about innovation and telling the story of natural diamonds.

Greenwich St. Jewelers Island Jewel candle
IndependentsOct 13, 2026
Greenwich St. Jewelers’ New Candle Smells Like Home

The “Island Jewel” candle honors New York City and Puerto Rico and raises money for the island’s water relief efforts.

TechnologyOct 13, 2026
GemFind Is a New JA Member Benefit Partner

The partnership will give JA members access to preferred pricing, exclusive benefits, technology solutions, education, and resources.

Stock image of a person holding holidays bags
SurveysOct 09, 2026
These Will Be the 10 Busiest Days for In-Store Shopping This Holiday Season

Stores should expect to see the most customers on Nov. 27, and Christmas week is expected to be hectic too, as Dec. 25 falls on a Friday.

Elisa Solomon x Serendipity 3 Frozen Hot Chocolate Charm
CollectionsOct 09, 2026
Elisa Solomon Collabs With Serendipity 3 on ‘Frozen Hot Chocolate’ Charm

The charm, our Piece of the Week, features brown diamond frozen hot chocolate topped with white diamond whipped cream and a ruby straw.

Ebel sport classic watch
WatchesOct 09, 2026
Movado to Sell Majority Stake in Ebel for $66.5M

The watch company agreed to sell a 95 percent interest to a group comprised of F.P. Journe, Chanel, and Swiss watch exec Pierre Jacques.

Stock image of paper money and coins
Policies & IssuesOct 08, 2026
Third Wave of IEEPA Tariff Refunds Begins

This round of tariff refunds is for importers that have sued over IEEPA tariffs in the Court of International Trade and won.

Brent Neale Back to Basics Collection Pink Garnet Capsule
CollectionsOct 08, 2026
Brent Neale’s New Collection Goes ‘Back to Basics’

It revisits the brand’s most requested silhouettes, from "Pillow"-set necklaces and bracelets to "Signature"-set rings and earrings.

Ethical Gem Fair Brooklyn
SourcingOct 08, 2026
Ethical Gem Fair Heads Back to Brooklyn

The trade-only event includes buying opportunities as well as educational sessions on artisanal mining, the new Paraíba source, and more.

Ara Chanakian Overall Design Winner
Events & AwardsOct 08, 2026
Pattons Fine Jewelry Sweeps Local Design Contest

Ara Chanakian, a jeweler at Pattons, took home top honors in every category at Jewelers of Louisiana’s annual jewelry design competition.

Reba McEntire belt buckle
AuctionsOct 08, 2026
Reba McEntire’s Jewelry, Watches Head to Julien’s Auctions

The live charity benefit sale in Nashville will also feature gowns, boots, and other memorabilia from the country music legend.

overnght sb 1026.png
Supplier BulletinOct 08, 2026
Overnight Mountings’ Bridal Builder Helps Jewelers Turn Custom Design into a Hands-On Selling Experience

Sponsored by Overnight Mountings

The entrance to The Plumb Club pavilion at JCK Las Vegas
Policies & IssuesOct 07, 2026
The Plumb Club Amplifies Its Voice as Geopolitical Pressures Mount

The supplier organization recently joined JA and JVC to have more input on political issues affecting the jewelry industry.

Woman wearing Blue Nile Royal Asscher jewelry
CollectionsOct 07, 2026
Blue Nile, Royal Asscher Collection Highlights Natural Diamond Beauty

Blue Nile, a Signet Jewelers-owned brand, is now Royal Asscher’s exclusive licensed retailer in North America.

Audemars Piguet Risoud Eclipse Necklace
CollectionsOct 07, 2026
4 Standout Pieces in Audemars Piguet’s First High Jewelry Collection

“Royal Oak” pays homage to the brand’s most popular watch model using 18-karat gold as well as diamonds, emeralds, and sapphires.

Juan Morales and Joseph Nicosia
MajorsOct 07, 2026
Empire Safe & Vault Promotes Juan Morales to CEO

As part of the transition, Joseph Nicosia has stepped into the role of COO.

American Gem Trade Association logo
SourcingOct 07, 2026
AGTA Extends Deadline for 2026 Spectrum Awards Entries

Participants now have until Oct. 14 to complete their submissions.

Stock image a police car
CrimeOct 06, 2026
6 Charged in Connection to String of New Jersey Smash-and-Grabs

The alleged thieves used crow bars and sledgehammers to smash into jewelry stores across the state.

The Retail Smiths Principal Partner Sherry Smith
ColumnistsOct 06, 2026
Sherry Smith: Is the Consumer Really Trading Up?

Ahead of the holidays, Smith urges jewelers to take a hard look at who’s buying jewelry, what they’re purchasing, and who’s stopped buying.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy