Auctions

Sotheby’s Brings Back ‘Brilliant & Black’ Selling Exhibition

AuctionsSep 08, 2022

Sotheby’s Brings Back ‘Brilliant & Black’ Selling Exhibition

The exhibition is larger in scale this year and has a new theme, Enlightenment.

20220908_Sothebys-header.jpg
Sotheby’s “Brilliant & Black: The Age of Enlightenment” exhibition will showcase 70 pieces from 25 contemporary Black jewelry designers at its London gallery from Sept. 22 to Oct. 2. Pictured is an owl cuff from one of the exhibition’s returning designers, Lauren Harwell Godfrey.
London—A year after it launched its groundbreaking selling exhibition “Brilliant & Black: A Jewellery Renaissance,” Sotheby’s is bringing it back with more designers and a different theme.

For last year’s event, Sotheby’s partnered with jewelry writer, 2022 Gem Award winner, and curator Melanie Grant to highlight the skill, imagination, and craftsmanship of Black jewelry designers from the 1950s to the present.

The second edition of the exhibition will open at Sotheby’s London gallery later this month, coinciding with Black History Month in the U.K.

The auction house again has partnered with Grant for “Brilliant & Black: The Age of Enlightenment,” which is set to be even bigger than last year’s New York show, offering more than 70 pieces from 25 contemporary designers.

The returning designers from last year’s exhibition are: Melanie Eddy, Lola Fenhirst, Harwell Godfrey, Sheryl Jones, Vania Leles, Angie Marei, Satta Matturi, Johnny Nelson, Jariet Oloye-Oduto, Jacqueline Rabun, Catherine Sarr, Maggi Simpkins, Karen Smith, Ten Thousand Things, Lorraine West, Thelma West and Castro NYC.

The man behind Castro NYC, Terry Castro, died unexpectedly in July, shocking the industry and leaving many mourning the death of a talented artist whose star was on the rise.

His work is being exhibited courtesy of his family.

20220908_Sothebys-insert.jpg
This theme of this year’s “Brilliant & Black” exhibition is Enlightenment, reflecting the present period of “modern enlightenment, exploring the depth and breadth of our talent today for all those who don’t have a voice or opportunity to do so themselves,” curator Melanie Grant said.

New to the exhibition this year are eight designers: Disa Allsopp, Latoya Boyd, Shola Branson, Ndidi Eubia, Gina Love, Pascale Marthine Tayou via Elisabetta Cipriani gallery, Roxanne Rajcommar-Hadden, and Sewit Sium. 

Sotheby’s said all the participating artists have created one new piece that is a nod to the exhibition’s theme, Enlightenment, a period Grant described as, “a time of growth, individualism and intellectual reason.”

In a release from Sotheby’s about the exhibition, she elaborated.

“So much of history repeats itself, and for me this second exhibition is about our expansion from that moment of conception in New York last September. In practical terms, this has involved inviting eight new artists to take part, bringing our roster to 25. As we forge ahead, having showcased the talents of old masters Art Smith and Winifred Mason last time, only contemporary artists will now be featured because this show is about the future and where we go from here.

 Related stories will be right here … 

“The tsunami of interest we experienced in Black creativity may be quieter now, but we cannot forget its lessons. There are fears that as things return to normal, our efforts to elevate Black design will be eclipsed by more recent events, but the work is too good and, once seen, never forgotten …  We are in a period of enlightenment. A modern enlightenment exploring the depth and breadth of our talent today for all those who don’t have a voice or opportunity to do so themselves.

“I want to thank all the collectors who continue to support us and to Sotheby’s, to whom I am eternally grateful. The best is yet to come.”

All the jewels will be on display at the Sotheby’s New Bond Street Galleries from Sept. 22 to Oct. 2. A smaller selection of pieces will remain available for viewing through the end of October.

They all will be available for purchase in person or online through the Buy Now marketplace at Sothebys.com.

Brecken Branstratoris the senior editor, gemstones at National Jeweler, covering sourcing, pricing and other developments in the colored stone sector.

The Latest

Stock image of shipping containers in port
Policies & IssuesJul 24, 2026
New Trump Tariffs: What They Mean for Jewelry

The new sweeping slate of tariffs impacts 60 countries, including India, China, Thailand, Hong Kong, and the United Arab Emirates.

Jorge Adeler Gods & Heroes coin pendant
TrendsJul 24, 2026
Amanda’s Style File: Ode to ‘The Odyssey’

From coin pendants to diamond shields, these old world-inspired jewels are the perfect accessory for an epic journey.

Courtney Leidy Amethyst Silk Cord Pendant
TrendsJul 24, 2026
Courtney Leidy’s Silk Cord Pendants Center Unexpected Pairings

Our Piece of the Week pairs a checkerboard-cut amethyst with an ivy green silk cord.

Brought-To-By-Article-Top-Image.jpg
Brought to you by
Wedding Band Trends 2026: Personalization Takes Center Stage

Colored gemstones, artisan finishes, mixed metals, and meaningful details are shaping demand in bridal jewelry.

NJ Article image.png
PodcastsJul 23, 2026
Episode 7: Reinhold Jewelers on the Power of Relationships

Mildred Marcano Abrams and Yael Reinhold join the podcast to talk community connections, holiday plans, and preserving Reinhold’s legacy.

Weekly QuizJul 23, 2026
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Trucks at De Beers’ Orapa mine in Botswana
SourcingJul 23, 2026
De Beers’ Production Jumps 88 Percent in Q2

Production also was up in the first half of 2026 but is expected to “substantially” decrease in H2 as two key mines undergo maintenance.

Silvia Furmanovich Enchapado en Tamo Wooden Wheat Straw Sun Earrings
CollectionsJul 23, 2026
Silvia Furmanovich’s New Collection Travels Back to the 1920s

“Art Deco” fuses ancestral techniques, rare materials, and modern perspectives as a tribute to the optimism and curiosity of the movement.

DCA-NJ-article-1872x1052-060826.jpg
Brought to you by
Building the Future of Jewelry Retail: DCA Expands Education, Leadership Development, and Workforce Solutions

DCA is preparing the next generation of professionals by supporting workforce development, leadership growth, and career advancement.

Sissy’s Log Cabin Saracen Casino
IndependentsJul 23, 2026
Sissy's Log Cabin Opens Casino Store

The jeweler’s newest store is inside Arkansas’ Saracen Casino Resort.

Kate Spade New York watches
WatchesJul 23, 2026
Movado Inks Licensing Deal With Kate Spade New York

The watch company will design, manufacture, and distribute Kate Spade New York watches.

Stock photo of loose polished diamonds
Policies & IssuesJul 22, 2026
Trump to Put 50% Tariff on Canadian Goods

The higher tax is set to go into effect in August and will apply to loose polished diamonds as well as precious and base metals jewelry.

Monica Rich Kosann Enchanted Garden Cherry Necklace
CollectionsJul 22, 2026
Monica Rich Kosann’s High Jewelry Is Fruitful

The “Enchanted Garden” series features a cherry, lemon, and pear that each hold a little secret inside.

Liljenquist new Rolex boutique McLean Virginia
IndependentsJul 22, 2026
Liljenquist Beckstead Opens Rolex New Boutique

It’s located in Tysons Galleria, an upscale shopping center in the Washington, D.C., metro area.

NY Now exhibitor booth
Events & AwardsJul 22, 2026
NY Now Returns in August Under New Ownership

The show, recently acquired by Rockview Management Group, will be held at New York City’s Javits Center from Aug. 2-4.

The Retail Smith Principal Partner and National Jeweler columnist Sherry Smith
ColumnistsJul 21, 2026
Sherry Smith: Shattering the Illusion of the ‘Either/Or’ Diamond Market

Smith offers retailers guidance on creating an environment where natural and lab-grown diamonds can both thrive.

Emerald logo
Events & AwardsJul 21, 2026
Apollo Funds Completes Emerald Acquisition

Former Emerald President and CEO Hervé Sedky has transitioned to the role of senior advisor.

Graff Seraphina Brooch and Lina Pendant
CollectionsJul 21, 2026
Graff’s New Butterfly High Jewelry Brooches Metamorphosize

The 12-piece capsule collection transforms from brooches to pendants.

Rough diamonds from De Beers’ Gahcho Kue mine in Canada
SourcingJul 21, 2026
Anglo Reportedly Selects Gareth Penny’s Consortium as Top Bidder for De Beers

A Botswana government official told lawmakers Anglo has selected The Global Diamond Consortium, an entity chaired by Penny, to buy De Beers.

Stock image of shipping containers
Policies & IssuesJul 20, 2026
Tariffs on Brazil to Increase But Rough Gemstones Exempt

The new tariff, imposed after a Trump administration study, is 25 percent and will stack on top of existing tariffs.

Vhernier Freccia High Jewelry Necklace
CollectionsJul 20, 2026
Vhernier Transforms ‘Freccia’ Collection Into High Jewelry

The collection from 2014 has been reinterpreted into high jewelry with its signature triangular-shaped elements.

Krista Collins Walters
MajorsJul 20, 2026
Krista Collins Walters Promoted to Publisher of Instore

She will also take on the role of vice president of jewelry for SmartWork Media, a newly created position.

Attendees at the Jewelry Symposium
Events & AwardsJul 20, 2026
TJS Accepting Speaker Proposals for 2027 Event

Organizers are looking for presentations on topics like manufacturing, technology and research, bench work, gemstones, and sustainability.

HOWL Frida Venetian Glass Collar
CollectionsJul 17, 2026
HOWL Taps Shailene Woodley for ‘Home Sweet Home’ Campaign

Woodley is seen in the campaign wearing our Piece of the Week, the “Frida” collar featuring 13 pieces of hand-carved Venetian glass.

A diamond ring in a jewelry box
SourcingJul 17, 2026
U.K. Woman Pays £5 for £15K Diamond Ring at Car Boot Sale

A WeBuyVintage jewelry expert uncovered how much the flea market find was actually worth.

Unveiling Rarities
SourcingJul 17, 2026
Diamond Dealer Jeff Pancis Pens Memoir

The founder of natural colored diamond wholesaler Pancis Gems shares stories from his five decades in the industry.

Gem Awards 2027 Logo
Events & AwardsJul 17, 2026
Gem Awards Opens 2027 Nomination Period

Submissions for the milestone 25th annual Gem Awards will be accepted across three categories from now through July 31.

Guzema Founder and Creative Director Valeriya Guzema and Co-Owner and CEO Mariana Lenha
EditorsJul 16, 2026
Q&A: Guzema’s Co-Owners On Its US Expansion, 10-Year Anniversary

Valeriya Guzema and Mariana Lenha look back on the last decade and discuss the Ukrainian brand’s first U.S. store.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy