Sara Weinstock “Unity Reverie” 18-karat gold and diamond drop pendant ($8,850) and “Aurora Large Pear Shape Pendant” in 18-karat yellow gold and diamonds with operable enhancer on 20-inch chain ($3,850)
Nothing beats viewing fine jewelry in person.
At the recent jewelry trade shows in Las Vegas, retailers and buyers had plenty of one-on-one time with the collections of their go-to designers, as well as some new faces, and not just those in the Couture Design Atelier for emerging brands.
Below, I share some of my favorite jewels from the Couture show’s main salon that were so much better IRL than over a Zoom appointment.
Debra Navarro “Fausta Autumn Bracelet” in 18-karat recycled yellow gold featuring untreated Tenda-cut gemstones: green tourmaline (48.7 carats), orange tourmaline (15.1 carats), spessartine garnet (6.19 carats); grossular garnet (5.25 carats), rhodolite garnet (10.32 carats), spinel (3.57 carats), aquamarine (2.31 carat), and 118 pave diamonds (1.48 carats). The bracelet is priced at $38,500.
Designer Debra Navarro made her Couture show debut this year, where she showed her affinity for exquisite colored gemstones and fancy colored diamonds, many in variations of their natural forms, alongside some faceted specimens as well.
Sydney Evan 14-karat yellow gold and diamond 20th anniversary “Cocktail Necklace” ($40,000)
If it feels like Sydney Evan has been in business for ages, that’s because it has. Two decades in, the brand is as relevant as ever, and had a special 20th anniversary capsule collection to celebrate at Couture.
Among the odes to best-selling charms and motifs were some ethereal sprinklings of diamonds.
Nikos Koulis 18-karat white gold hoop earrings with white diamonds and black enamel (price available upon request)
Nikos Koulis made a case for accessorizing one’s accessories courtesy of his enamel “A-Round” series from the fan-favorite enamel “Oui” collection. Hoops, rings, and collars featured diamond rings that moved.
Alina Abegg 9-karat gold pendant with amethyst, citrine, tourmaline and pink opal (price upon request)
Also at the jewelry box of a booth that belonged to Muse Showroom was Alina Abegg’s “Sugar High” collection. With her brand rooted firmly in kitschy 90s nostalgia, Abegg’s latest pieces were an ode to childhood pleasures.
Bayco platinum and pink sapphire ring with diamonds (price upon request)
Not even a high-resolution photo like the one above can capture the extravagance of Bayco’s one-of-a-kind works, so in-person viewings were a delight compared to a FaceTime.
Buddha Mama 12 mm 20-karat gold bracelet with sky-blue enamel and diamonds ($29,950)
Buddha Mama’s wild colors and joie de vivre perfectly encapsulate fashion’s current optimistic mood. This sky-blue enamel was a standout.
Harwell Godfrey “Stardust Cigar Band” in 18-karat yellow gold with diamonds ($13,650)
The brand may have won a Couture Design Award for color, but Harwell Godfrey’s elaborate geometric designs are equally as enticing in a neutral palette like yellow gold with diamonds.
The latest pieces from prolific designer Lauren Harwell Godfrey were some of my personal show favorites.
Moritz Glik 18-karat gold and white sapphire-encased white and blue diamond “Star of David” ($1,970); “Small Single Initials A-Z” ($990); and “IVXX Tag” ($1,830) pendants
It’s true that #nobodyshakesitlikemoritzglik, but it turns out his designs are just as exciting, and look just as signature to the brand, when they’re static.
Moritz Glik is offering a range of pendants with symbols, numbers, and letters for personalization.
Pomellato 18-karat gold bangles and rings with diamonds ($6,850-$28,500)
Pomellato showed its take on trending bold chain links with the luxurious new “Catene” collection. It features styles with and without diamond pave as well as pieces combining the two looks.
Jenna Blake green quartz, tiger’s eye, and rose quartz “Stone Mariner Link Charms” on 18-karat yellow gold and diamond necklace (price upon request)
Jenna Blake’s Couture array was full of whimsy and color, like her signature gemmy mariner links.
Graziela 18-karat gold earrings with green rhodium, emeralds and diamonds ($19,850)
Graziela embraced vibrant color in her typical high-wattage fashion, combining rhodium-covered metal with bright gemstones.
Lalaounis 18-karat yellow gold pendant with garnet ($4,470) and emerald ($2,430)
Fans of Lalaounis’ rich, high-karat gold pieces, bold silhouettes, and use of classic techniques like granulation weren’t disappointed at this year’s Couture show.
Silvia Furmanovich 18-karat yellow gold hand-painted wood earrings with tourmalines and diamonds (price upon request)
What can’t she do? Silvia Furmanovich’s unique designs showed an interest in ancient civilizations, depicting motifs from Pharaonic Egypt, like in these hand-painted hieroglyph earrings.
Sylva & Cie 18-karat white gold bracelet with white and black diamonds (price upon request)
Sylva & Cie can be counted on for presenting oodles of extravagant one-of-a-kind pieces in Vegas each year. Buried among them are typically a few more casual pieces, casual for the Sylva customer anyway, like this multi-strand bracelet that spells “Love.”
Suzanne Kalan 18-karat white gold pendant with black sapphires and white diamonds ($3,500)
Suzanne Kalan’s new collections—a black sapphire collection and a men’s collection—dovetailed in this new design that features the brand’s signature baguette cuts with a whole new attitude.
Kamyen Jewellery 18-karat white gold ring with diamonds, emeralds and blue enamel (price upon request)
I was delighted to see Dubai-based Kamyen Jewellery at its very first Couture after obsessing over the brand on Instagram.
The company combines elevated, sophisticated designs with a modern sense of ease and fun courtesy of enamel and gemstone pairings.
Almasika “Grande Marquise Hoops” in 18-karat yellow gold and diamond ($6,250)
Almasika is one of those brands that’s just better in person. It’s streamlined, elegant and coherent, re-interpreting basics through thoughtful symbolism; it was one of my Couture favorites.
The new collection, “Harmony,” introduces a new, organic shape.
Bea Bongiasca 9-karat gold ring with blue topaz and enamel (price upon request)
Bea Bongiasca’s ultra-colorful jewels have distinguished it from other young brands.
Affordability makes it the perfect fine jewelry entrée for Gen X, but it’s also a pleasure to see some of her larger, more aspirational pieces.
Anita Ko 18-karat yellow gold and diamond bracelet (price upon request)
Anita Ko embodies the concept of elevated basics to wear daily and is accordingly coveted by the self-purchaser.
There was plenty for the Anita Ko devotee to want at the Couture show, like these sleek new links.
Sara Weinstock “Aurora Large Pear Shape” 18-karat yellow gold and diamond pendant with operable enhancer on 20-inch chain ($3,850); “Aurora Large Marquis Shape Pendant” in 18-karat yellow gold and diamonds with operable enhancer on 20-inch chain ($5,400); and “Aurora Large Taj Baguette” 18-karat yellow gold and diamond pendant with operable enhancer on a 20-inch chain ($5,675)
Amid the gemstone rainbow of color, Sara Weinstock was one of the designers who made a case for white diamonds.
Marco Bicego 18-karat yellow gold and diamond pendant ($5,500)
Marco Bicego presented lots of newness to its core collections, like this elegant, textured gold pendant, new to the “Jaipur” range.
Kwiat 18-karat white gold and sapphire pendant ($6,950)
Kwiat straddles the fine line between classic and modern style but is reliably glamourous. I took in lots of fabulous emeralds at the show, but also loved this monochromatic sapphire style.
Christina Alexiou 18-karat yellow gold necklace (price upon request)
Repped by Muse, I’ve been enchanted with Greek brand Christina Alexiou’s nostalgic hearts. Now, the designer’s flowers are at the top of my shopping list.
Amrapali 18-karat white gold “Lotus Earrings” with 17.31 carats of rubies and 4.06 carats of diamonds ($50,700)
Even a few minutes with Amrapali’s high jewelry is worth the entire trip to Vegas for me.
Impeccable craftsmanship with the highest quality gems means each piece seems better than the last. Lotus-cut gems are the house’s signature.
Lord Jewelry 18-karat yellow gold ring with 3.2-carat opal, 0.49 carats of diamonds, and enamel (price upon request)
Lord Jewelry was all about moody, interesting hues communicated through gemstones and enamel.
This opal ring is part of the new “Rock Candy” collection the brand debuted at the show.
Mateo 14-karat yellow gold necklace with turquoise and diamonds ($1,875)
While there were many variations of color in designers’ collections, blue and green hues reigned supreme.
One surprise hit? Turquoise, like in this new necklace from Mateo.
Julez Bryant “Jono” 14-karat gold pendant with diamonds ($4,498)
Julez Bryant touted the benefits of bold gold, with lots of talismanic medallions to suit women of all ages.
Yana Nesper 18-karat yellow gold and Akoya pearl necklace ($2,850)
Yana Nesper made its Couture debut, infusing the trade show with a much-needed dose of pearls, which remain popular among consumers.