Editors

Field Gemology & Geographic Origin: 5 Questions Answered

EditorsApr 30, 2020

Field Gemology & Geographic Origin: 5 Questions Answered

GIA’s Aaron Palke discussed expeditions, origin determination and the future of field gemology in a recent webinar.

20200430_Field-gemology-header.jpg
GIA’s reference collection, comprised of gem materials gathered during field expeditions, now includes more than 22,000 samples. In a recent webinar, GIA Senior Research Scientist Aaron Palke, pictured here, spoke about how the work plays a role in origin determination services. (Photo credit: Robert Weldon/GIA)
The topic of geographic origin determination has dominated the colored stone sector of late, especially in terms of research.

The conversation is so dominant, in fact, that the GIA’s scientific journal, Gems & Gemology, dedicated its entire Winter 2019 issue to the topic.

On April 23, Aaron Palke, senior manager of research at GIA, hosted a webinar as part of the lab’s recently launched “Knowledge Sessions” to talk about the GIA’s field gemology program and the role it plays in geographic origin determination.

I covered the topic of including gemstone origin on reports in my in-depth story for our 2018 State of the Majors issue.

The topic of field gemology continues to intrigue me, and I want to keep up with the origin conversation, so I tuned in to hear what Palke had to say.

Here are five notable topics he covered that trade members might find interesting. To watch the full session, visit the GIA’s YouTube channel.

Why is origin important?

A colored gemstone’s geographic origin is closely aligned with the conversation about its perceived value, Palke said.

Color, transparency and size are some of the most obvious and important value characteristics, but so too is a stone’s “story.”

He used the example of a customer buying a ruby.

Would they rather buy a natural ruby, and tell the story of a miner and how he or she retrieved the stone, or would they rather buy a lab-grown and tell the story of stone created by man?

There’s nothing wrong with either, but the market will “attach a different value” to the lab-grown stone based on that story, Palke said.

One can think about geographic origin in much the same way, he added; it’s part of a stone’s story.

If a client wants a natural ruby, do they then want one from Mozambique, which produces a lot of high-quality stones but is a modern source, or do they want one from Mogok in Myanmar, which is an ancient source? The market will give the Burmese stone a different value because of this story.

What role does field gemology play in origin determination?

GIA started offering origin determination services on lab reports in 2006 because of market demand and ramped up its research so it could offer the service more accurately for clients. 

This came with the realization, Palke said, that for accurate determination, the lab had to build a reliable reference database.

So, in 2008, GIA created a field gemology department to build this database, a collection of gem materials with known provenance against which researchers could compare a client’s stone. 

Since its establishment, the department has gone on 95 expeditions to 21 countries on six continents, Palke said, noting they’ve traveled most frequently to East Africa and Southeast Asia.

During these expeditions, the field gemologists’ goal is to collect stones as close to the source as possible and gather as much information as they can regarding where the stone came from, how it was collected and from whom.

Since the team can’t always get the gem materials straight from the source, they classify the samples based on how they were collected. 

A-type, for example, is mined directly by the field gemologist, while B-type stones were collected at the mine, with the field gemologist witnessing the mining but not removing the stones from the ground themselves. 

RELATED CONTENT: What It’s Like to Be a Field Gemologist, Part 1 and Part 2

The system ends at F-type, which are samples collected on the international market.

When the samples are brought back to the lab, researchers do “everything from the low tech to the high tech,” according to Palke, from microscopy to look at inclusions to various spectroscopy techniques.

The information they get is added to a database accessible by gemologists at GIA’s five identification labs.

The reference collection itself now includes more than 22,000 samples that weigh a total of more than 1 million carats.

What challenges does today’s market bring, and how is research addressing them?

Many new sources and mines have popped up in the past few decades.

One of the biggest developments in the colored stone mining sector in the 20th century has been the rise of East Africa, offering colored gemstones of all kinds from Kenya to Madagascar.

“All of a sudden, we have a lot more options that you have to consider to determine where a stone came from,” Palke said.

The state-of-the-art technology now available can help labs narrow down origin possibilities by providing multiple data sets with which to work and compare.

One of those methods GIA uses is a technique called laser ablation inductively coupled plasma mass spectrometry, or LA-ICP-MS, which measures trace elements in stones with a superior level of precision and accuracy.

GIA researchers can compare those measurements with data from the reference collection to help narrow down an origin possibility.

But what the data shows—and what is often cited as an issue among those concerned with the reliability of origin determination services—is that with the rise of all these new deposits, there tends to be overlap in physical properties between stones from different areas.

GIA has developed other resources to help make origin calls more accurately, like the use of statistical tools that offer a better way to crunch the data from trace element analysis.

Selective plotting based on k-nearest neighbors, for example, is a method based on the idea of predicting unknown values by matching them to the most similar known values, according to DataQuest. For researchers comparing trace element chemistry, it helps them look at the data from more dimensions.

Still, GIA and other labs continue to emphasize that geographic origin determinations on reports are opinions, not indisputable facts.

Where have GIA’s field gemology expeditions gone recently?

An important development over the last several years has been the rise of Ethiopia in the gem world—blue sapphires at Axum and emeralds in Shakiso joined opal offerings from the country.

Because the material hit the market so quickly and made waves, Palke said they knew they had to send a team there. In early 2018, they went to collect emeralds, opals and sapphires from Ethiopia.

In 2018, the GIA field gemology team went to Sri Lanka to look into blue sapphires. That same year, as well as in 2019, they went to Mogok, Myanmar for sapphires and a variety of other materials.

Early last year, they traveled to the Malysheva emerald mine in the Russian Ural Mountains.

What they found there was a large, sophisticated operation producing a lot of emeralds.

“There’s every reason to believe these stones are going to be coming through the lab,” Palke said.

The GIA field gemology team has visited 21 countries across six continents so far, including recent trips to Sri Lanka, Ethiopia, Myanmar and Russia.
The GIA field gemology team has visited 21 countries across six continents so far, including recent trips to Sri Lanka, Ethiopia, Myanmar and Russia.

They also collected samples from demantoid garnet mines in the same region. Though GIA doesn’t offer origin determination for demantoid yet, Palke said the lab is “actively looking into it.”

There are a few other benefits to the field gemology expeditions Palke mentioned, one being they act as “fact-finding missions” so GIA gains insights into who’s mining in an area, how much is being produced, the quality of the stones, and how they’re reaching the market.

Additionally, the samples collected can also benefit other research areas. The demantoid garnet samples, for example, will help in heat treatment identification.

What’s the future of origin determination?

The value the market places on origin won’t go away any time soon, and it’s not likely origin determination services will either, Palke said.

As such, GIA is looking into expanding its origin determination services for additional materials.

In 2019, the lab rolled out origin reports for alexandrite after years of research and sample collecting.

Palke said that service has seen “pretty good success” so far.

It is also looking into demantoid garnet, as mentioned before, opal, and potentially others, but the future of the area will also depend on advances in technology.

And because of the growing interest in a transparent supply chain from mine to consumer, GIA is developing a new service called the Colored Stone Origin and Traceability Report, not entirely unlike the one it rolled out for diamonds last year.

It would involve a client submitting a rough stone with accompanying documentation about where, when and from whom it was purchased.

The lab would examine the stone, document its physical properties and return it to the client, who would then cut and resubmit the gemstone. 

GIA would study it again and, if the physical properties of the cut stone match the rough characteristics, it would issue an origin report including a photo of the rough and faceted gemstone and a statement that it was accompanied by documents indicating where it was purchased. 

“Essentially, the idea is to get the gemological laboratory more involved in more parts of the supply chain for colored stones in order to help get some more confidence in the trade for this sustainability aspect,” Palke said. 
Brecken Branstratoris the senior editor, gemstones at National Jeweler, covering sourcing, pricing and other developments in the colored stone sector.

The Latest

Ella Klein Interns Jamie Dunton and Gabriella Botelho
Events & AwardsDec 20, 2024
Two Participants Complete Inaugural Ella Klein Internship

Jamie Dunton and Gabriella Botelho are the first graduates of the program, created by the WJA Foundation and Julius Klein Diamonds.

Retrouvai Green Sapphire and Diamond Heirloom Bezel Ring for Charity
CollectionsDec 20, 2024
Piece of the Week: Retrouvaí’s Ring for Charity

In the spirit of giving, Retrouvaí will donate $4,000 from the sale of this ring to the Los Angeles Regional Food Bank.

DeVries Jewelers
IndependentsDec 19, 2024
Michigan’s DeVries Jewelers Unveils New Location in Time for the Holidays

Co-owner Dan DeVries shared what it’s like moving into a space triple the size of its old store and how it feels to be a “real jeweler” now.

me_myself_and_I_1872x1052 .jpg
Brought to you by
De Beers Group Launches Holiday Campaign for Natural Diamonds

‘Forever Present’ campaign revives the iconic A Diamond is Forever tagline and celebrates the diamond dream.

State Property Gardens Collection Campaign
CollectionsDec 19, 2024
State Property Transforms Spain’s Generalife Gardens into Jewelry

Along with the latest “Gardens” collection, the brand has released limited-edition designs offering more indulgent pieces.

Weekly QuizDec 19, 2024
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Two people in a rowboat
CrimeDec 19, 2024
Alleged Jewelry Thieves Attempt Rowboat Escape

The man and woman are accused of stealing jewelry from a shipping container then trying to flee by paddling a small boat out into a bay.

2488-carat diamond found in Botswana
SourcingDec 19, 2024
The Second-Largest Diamond Ever Found Now Has a Name

The 2,488-carat diamond recovered from a mine in Botswana has been dubbed “Motswedi” while its 1,094-carat sibling is “Seriti.”

ja nj btyb.jpg
Brought to you by
Advocacy and Excellence: How Jewelers of America Is Committed to Elevating Our Industry

For over a century, Jewelers of America has been the voice of the industry and valuable resource to jewelers across the country.

Rough rubies
SourcingDec 19, 2024
Gemfields Reports Record Ruby Auction Results Despite Challenges at Source

The average price per carat hit a record high for the miner, which said it remains unaffected by the conflict in Mozambique.

alexandrite ring
AuctionsDec 18, 2024
Alexandrite Ring Sells for Record-Setting $1.9M at Sotheby’s

The nearly 17-carat stone made history for the color-change gem that, according to the auction house, is experiencing a “notable surge” in the market.

Tiffany & Co. pocket watch gifted to captain of the Carpathia
WatchesDec 18, 2024
Historic Titanic Pocket Watch Winds Its Way Back to Tiffany & Co.

More than a century after survivors gifted a Tiffany timepiece to the captain of the ship that rescued them, the jeweler has reclaimed it.

Picchiotti Spotlight Campaign Video Still
TechnologyDec 18, 2024
Picchiotti Utilizes AI in ‘Spotlight’ Video Campaign

The videos highlight how pieces from the “Xpandable” and “Reversible Xpandable” collections put the wearer in the spotlight.

Steve Feldman
IndependentsDec 18, 2024
Industry Veteran Steve Feldman Set to Retire

Feldman reflected on 45 years in the jewelry industry and clarified that it’s not a total retirement.

Chanel Quilted Stars Necklace
Events & AwardsDec 17, 2024
Chanel to Receive Gem Award for High Jewelry Excellence

The luxury brand is being honored for excellence in high jewelry design in its “Haute Joaillerie Sport” collection.

Frank Circelli
SourcingDec 17, 2024
Frank Circelli, Founder of Gem Shopping Network, Dies at 75

Circelli was a pioneer in the world of TV shopping who is remembered for his passion for gemstones and his big personality.

Blue diamond ring
AuctionsDec 17, 2024
Blue Diamond Fetches $8.8M at Christie’s

The nearly 6-carat stone headlined the recent jewelry auction, which also featured Mica Ertegun’s jewelry.

Stock image of a gavel, handcuffs, and books
CrimeDec 17, 2024
‘Black Bin Crew’ Robbers Get 14-16 Years in Prison

The three men, who got their nickname because they’d toss the jewelry they stole into black plastic bins, were arrested back in August.

Cover of the new book “The History of Diamond Engagement Rings: A True Romance”
TrendsDec 16, 2024
Marion Fasel’s New Book Delves Into the History of Engagement Rings

“The History of Diamond Engagement Rings: A True Romance” is a 128-page small-format book containing more than 165 images.

Rolex store on Rodeo Drive
WatchesDec 16, 2024
Take a Look Inside the New Rolex Boutique on Rodeo Drive

Gearys opened a 6,200-square-foot Rolex store with a design that pays homage to the brand’s connection to the ocean.

GCAL 8X pear and marquise-cut diamonds
GradingDec 16, 2024
GCAL By Sarine Expands 8X to 2 More Fancy Shapes

The diamond cut grade is now available for marquise- and pear-shaped diamonds.

Claudia Cividino, Sissy’s Log Cabin, Shri Govind Dholakia, Tanishq
SourcingDec 16, 2024
Diamonds Do Good Announces 2025 Award Recipients

DDG said the honorees’ business practices embody a commitment to positive social impact, industry innovation, and community empowerment.

Selena Gomez, Benny Blanco, Engagement Ring
TrendsDec 13, 2024
Selena Gomez Said ‘Forever Begins Now’ to Marquise Diamond Engagement Ring

Estimates on the size and value of the solitaire diamond, which is mounted on a diamond pavé-set yellow gold band, vary.

Martin Katz tanzanite drop earrings
TrendsDec 13, 2024
Piece of the Week: Martin Katz’s Tanzanite Drops

These half-moon tanzanite earrings totaling 25 carats are part of a special trunk show taking place this weekend in Dallas.

My Next Question webinar graphic
Recorded WebinarsDec 13, 2024
Watch: The Highs and Lows of 2024

The National Jeweler editors recap the top news, the best jewels, and their favorite stories of the year.

Tom Brady’s Rolex Daytona Paul Newman “John Player Special”
AuctionsDec 12, 2024
Tom Brady’s Watches Top $4M at Sotheby’s Auction

The highest-grossing lot of the sale was the retired QB’s Rolex Paul Newman Daytona “John Player Special.”

Grizzly emerald mining
SourcingDec 12, 2024
Grizzly Emerald Auction Garners $22.4M

Recent expansion initiatives at the Zambian emerald mine have shown strong production numbers, said Grizzly founder Abdoulaye Ndiaye.

Carrie Forman
MajorsDec 12, 2024
Mark Henry Appoints New Director of Sales

Carrie Forman joins the brand to guide it into the next phase of growth with major and independent retailers in the U.S. and abroad.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy