Editors

Postcard Carlsbad: 3 Notes from GIA Symposium

EditorsOct 16, 2018

Postcard Carlsbad: 3 Notes from GIA Symposium

Vision, flexibility and a call for gender diversity were among the points that made it into Editor-in-Chief Michelle Graff’s notebook.

20181012_Symposium-header.jpg
GIA Symposium 2018 wrapped up with a six-person panel dubbed the “Futurescape Forum.” Panelists were, from left to right, Chow Tai Fook Managing Director Kent Wong, Christie’s International Head of Jewelry Rahul Kadakia, Diamond Cellar CEO Andy Johnson, Blue Nile CEO Jason Goldberger, Signet Jewelers CEO Gina Drosos and Bruce Cleaver, CEO of the De Beers Group. Harvard Senior Fellow David Ager, far left, moderated. (Photo credit: GIA)

Earlier this month, I headed out to the Gemological Institute of America’s headquarters in Carlsbad, California for the second time in my 11-year career at National Jeweler.

The occasion: GIA Symposium, the sixth such event organized by the institute, and the first to take place since 2011.

Symposium 2018 was a two-day event that divided education into two “tracks,” the Research Track and the Business Track. Three Harvard Business School professors led the sessions on the latter, which gave participants the opportunity to earn an HBS certificate.

The event wrapped up last Tuesday evening with what GIA dubbed the “Futurescape Forum,” a panel of five men and one woman (more on that later) assembled to weigh in on predictions made at the last Symposium seven years ago.

During the two-day conference, I traversed the hallway between the Westin Carlsbad’s Grand Pacific Ballroom and the Sunset Ballroom, bouncing back and forth between the informative HBS sessions and the research track, which included lectures on lab-grown diamonds, colored stone origin and a lot of science that, while interesting, was sometimes way over my head.

Overall I enjoyed the experience because, hey, it’s California. As I was leaving the palm trees, sunshine and perfect weather to return to the soupy mess that was, somewhat inexplicably, New York City in October, I wrestled with the same question I confront every few months: Why do I live here again?

Please enjoy my Symposium insights below; those who attended can feel free to add their thoughts in the comments section.

1. Diamonds are graded using the four Cs. Vision is assessed using only three.

One of the three Harvard faculty members leading lectures at Symposium was David Ager, a senior fellow in executive education at Harvard Business School.

As anybody who took one of his sessions can attest, Ager is an entertaining and engaging lecturer who bounds around the room like a wind-up toy with an endless supply of kinetic energy.

“I’m getting my steps in today,” he told the class Monday morning while presenting what turned out to be my favorite HBS session of the two-day conference: a case study on Jean-Claude Biver, the longtime watch executive who just announced he is semi-retiring, and his role in the re-emergence of the Swiss watch industry following the quartz “crisis.”

In his session, Ager talked a lot about Biver’s vision and, in a tongue-in-cheek appeal

to his audience, the “three C’s” that must exist in order for any leader’s vision to succeed.

They are: Conviction, the willingness to put your reputation on the line for said vision; Clarity, meaning the vision must clearly address an existing problem or meet a need; and Commitment, meaning the vision must capture the imagination of those around you and connect to a future reality with which they identify.  

A vision, Ager noted, is not real until others adopt it, and should be constantly evolving.


David Ager was one of three Harvard Business School faculty members to lead sessions at GIA Symposium 2018. His case study on Jean-Claude Biver’s career delved into the longtime watch executive’s leadership style and vision. (Photo credit: GIA

2. Flexibility is key for employers to attract top talent today.

Overall, I thought much of the ground covered by the Futurescape Forum was not groundbreaking. We know that omnichannel is the future of retail and that younger consumers today want something “different,” which is why custom design has become so important.

Also, as much as I enjoyed Ager’s enthusiasm as a lecturer, as the forum’s moderator I thought he misfired when the discussion turned to lab-grown diamonds and their role in the industry going forward.

When the question came up, I assumed Ager would go first to panelist Bruce Cleaver, CEO of De Beers Group, since his company, you know, just launched a lab-grown line that’s set the industry on its collective ear.

But no, he put the question to the panelist whom I would say has the least interest/stake in lab-grown diamonds—Christie’s International Head of Jewelry Rahul Kadakia, whose business centers on selling stones like the 18.96-carat “Pink Legacy.”

Cleaver did weigh in on lab-grown diamonds a bit—basically saying the same thing De Beers has said since it announced Lightbox, that lab-grown diamonds are just for fun—but what I wanted Ager to ask was, how is Lightbox selling so far? And, how do the other panelists see the line impacting their businesses, particularly when it comes to sales of lower-priced fashion jewelry?

Despite the lab-grown question miss, the conversation did veer into some interesting territory when it came to the topic of hiring, with a few of the panelists commenting on employers’ need to be more flexible today.

Panelist Andy Johnson, CEO of Diamond Cellar Holdings LLC, said his company used to bypass candidates who, for whatever reasons, needed more flexible schedules.

Now, his five-store chain had adopted the philosophy of customizing the workplace in order to attract the right talent, even if that means hiring someone who can or wants to work only three or four days a week.

Blue Nile CEO Jason Goldberger added an anecdote about opting to hire an employee who has a desirous skill set but came with an unusual request—she wanted summers off.

Goldberger said while he would have flat-out rejected such a request a few years ago, he’s come around to the idea of working with candidates who ask for more flexible schedules. In her case specifically, he determined that nine months of contributions from this woman, whose work he loves, was better than zero and potentially losing her to a competitor.

3. The Futurescape was not female enough.

Since I started writing this post on International Day of the Girl, I could not leave out one of my favorite moments from GIA Symposium.

During the Q&A session following the Futurescape Forum, Jewelers Vigilance Committee Senior Counsel Sara Yood was first to step up to the mic, and she put this question to the panel: “I wonder what you’re doing to make sure that at [the next] Symposium, there is more than one woman on this panel?”

Yood’s question drew a hearty round of applause, which frankly made me jealous. I wish I had been the one to jump up and ask it, as I’d been wondering the entire time: Why is a five-man, one-woman panel leading a discussion on the future of a product—jewelry—that’s largely desired and consumed by women?

Now, the last time GIA held Symposium was in 2011, though GIA CEO and President Susan Jacques hinted that the institute might not wait another seven years before it holds the next one.

Given that, I’d like to take Yood’s inquiry a step further and suggest a few panelists to participate in the next Futurescape Forum:

Lisa Bridge, Ben Bridge Jeweler. In November 2017, the now 33-year-old Bridge became the first woman to lead her family’s jewelry store chain, and is working to rebrand the business and revamp its 92 locations.

You can read more about Bridge’s plans in this Q&A I did with her shortly after she was named president last fall.

She was sitting behind me during the panel and, like a true lady boss who’s always working it, had to leave shortly thereafter to conduct another round of store visits.

Who better to speak on the future of retail than a millennial woman who’s running one of the biggest jewelry store chains in the country?

Karen Goracke, Borsheims. Topics covered by the panel included the need for storytelling when selling, and the future lab-grown diamonds will play in the industry. I visited Borsheims in Omaha, Nebraska this past spring, which is why I know the store’s CEO can provide perspective on both these topics, and more.

Borsheims carries a line called Kalahari Dream Diamonds, which are sourced by Leo Schachter and directly benefit desert communities in South Africa, Namibia and Botswana. It’s a great story to tell that isn’t lost on consumers; when I was at Borsheims, two women looking at a display case of Kalahari Dream Diamonds were telling me how a portion of the proceeds from the stones’ sale went to build wells in Africa.

Alongside these mined diamonds that give back, Borsheims carries lab-grown diamonds, with Goracke telling me in May 2017: “We realize they are part of the industry, whether you are in favor of them or not. They’re out there. Rather than hide from it, we decided to … have the offering for the consumer who’s interested in it.”

Sounds like the right perspective to me.
 
Dorothee Gizenga, Diamond Development Initiative. I would move for Gizenga to have more visibility at industry events across the board, as I think what her organization does is incredibly interesting and important.

Gizenga heads the Diamond Development Initiative, which is working to regulate artisanal and small-scale diamond mining so that it is safe, sustainable and benefits the miners, their communities and their countries.

She can certainly contribute to any conversations about sustainability and consumer perception of diamonds moving forward, as well as add perspective about lab-grown diamonds.

JCK’s Rob Bates did an interview with Gizenga just last month about man-made stones and their potential impact on the millions of people who make a living in artisanal mining, and the article is worth reading.

One last note on the future Futurescape Forum: I also have suggestions for knowledgeable women in the industry who would be willing and able to moderate (ahem).
Michelle Graffis the editor-in-chief at National Jeweler, directing the publication’s coverage both online and in print.

The Latest

Bergman Jewelers family
IndependentsApr 01, 2025
Bergman Jewelers in Omaha Closing After 137 Years

The independent jeweler first opened its doors in 1888.

QVC Group Inc. logo
MajorsApr 01, 2025
QVC Group to Cut 900 Jobs in the U.S.

The layoffs come amid the TV shopping channel’s efforts to restructure and focus on live shopping through social media.

Coconut Grove Jewelry & Watch Show
Events & AwardsApr 01, 2025
U.S. Antique Shows Adds Fall Show in Florida

The debut event will take place in Miami’s Coconut Grove neighborhood this fall.

bench jeweler 1872x1052.png
Brought to you by
The Heart of the Industry: Giving Bench Jewelers the Recognition They Deserve

Bench jewelers spend years honing their skills, Jewelers of America’s Certification validates their talents.

The Jewelry Symposium (TJS)
Events & AwardsApr 01, 2025
TJS to Host Discussion on Jewelry Industry’s Labor Shortage

The roundtable will take place May 17 ahead of the trade show’s welcome dinner.

Weekly QuizMar 27, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Peanuts x Monica Rich Kosann Collection Bracelets
CollectionsApr 01, 2025
Monica Rich Kosann Says ‘Good Grief’ in Peanuts Jewelry Collection

The “Peanuts x Monica Rich Kosann” collection features the comic strip’s classic vocabulary across 10 bracelet designs.

Graphic for What Do We Mean When We Say “Recycled” Gold webinar
Recorded WebinarsMar 31, 2025
Watch: What Do We Mean When We Say ‘Recycled’ Gold?

Three industry experts dive into the complexities of the material often marketed as an “ethical” alternative for metal in jewelry.

Facets-of-Fire-Difference-You-Can-See.jpg
Brought to you by
Natural Diamonds Should Mean More

Natural diamonds mean more than lab-grown, but when every cut is ideal, they all look the same. Customers want more—Facets of Fire delivers.

Mindi Mond Clarity Earrings
TrendsMar 31, 2025
Amanda’s Style File: Dripping in Diamonds

Diamonds are not only one of the most prominent gemstones, but the birthstone for those born in April.

Lashbrook ring
MajorsMar 31, 2025
Lashbrook Expands Into Luxury Golf Gifts With Acquisition

The Utah-based company known for making wedding bands has acquired Doubloon Golf.

Bulgari and LVMH Watches CEO Jean-Christophe Babin
WatchesMar 31, 2025
Bulgari CEO Jean-Christophe Babin Will Also Head LVMH Watches

The longtime luxury executive led one of LVMH’s watch brands, TAG Heuer, for 12 years before taking over Bulgari in 2013.

Surveillance footage of robbery
CrimeMar 28, 2025
2 Suspects Arrested in $1.7M Smash-and-Grab Robbery of NY Jewelry Store

Authorities said the robbers fled with jewelry and 70 Rolex watches, later taking pictures of themselves posing with big stacks of cash.

Nephrite and Jadeite by Heinrich Fischer, Richard W. Hughes
SourcingMar 28, 2025
19th-Century Jade Book Now Available in English

Lotus Gemology founder Richard W. Hughes has translated Heinrich Fischer’s 1880 book “Nephrit und Jadeit” from its original German.

LÖF The Valentine Ring
CollectionsMar 28, 2025
Piece of the Week: Löf’s ‘The Valentine’ Ring

The ring's design features contrasting lines influenced by work from architecture-inspired photographer Nikola Olic.

Eggs on a shelf
SurveysMar 27, 2025
Consumer Confidence Falls in March Amid ‘Gloomy’ Outlook

The Conference Board’s index fell as consumers continued to worry about the impact of tariffs, the labor market, and the price of eggs.

Richard Rainsford memorial ring
AuctionsMar 27, 2025
300-Year-Old Ring Linked to Witch Trial Judge Goes Unsold at Auction

However, two medieval jewels surpassed estimates at Noonans Mayfair’s recent jewelry auction in London.

Austin Butler
WatchesMar 27, 2025
Austin Butler Joins Breitling as Brand Ambassador

The Oscar-nominated actor debuted in the campaign for the new “Top Time B31” collection, which introduced Breitling’s Caliber B31.

ICA Congress Brazil 2025
SourcingMar 27, 2025
Susan Jacques, Gaetano Cavalieri to Headline 2025 ICA Congress

The Congress is scheduled to take place May 19-22 in Brasilia, Brazil.

Bailey’s Fine Jewelry storefront
IndependentsMar 26, 2025
Bailey’s Fine Jewelry Acquires Fellow NC Independent Jeweler

The family-owned retailer is the new owner of Morrison Smith Jewelers in Charlotte, North Carolina.

Bulova 150 Art Deco Miss America Watch, 150 Art Deco Pocket Watch
WatchesMar 26, 2025
Bulova Celebrates 150th Anniversary With Art Deco Watches

The “150 Art Deco” collection features a Miss America timepiece and a pocket watch from the brand’s Archive Series.

Alex Wellen
MajorsMar 26, 2025
QVC Group Appoints New President

Alex Wellen, formerly CEO and president of MotorTrend Group, has taken on the role.

Jewelers of America’s new logo
Events & AwardsMar 26, 2025
Jewelers of America Announces New Funding Initiative

The Impact Initiative is part of the nonprofit association’s new three-year strategic plan.

Christies regent kashmir sapphire and regal Burmese ruby
AuctionsMar 25, 2025
Christie’s To Auction 35-Carat Sapphire, 13-Carat Ruby

The ruby and the sapphire, which Christie’s calls a “once-in-a-generation masterpiece,” are part of the upcoming Hong Kong jewelry auction.

Diamond earrings held in gloved hand
CrimeMar 25, 2025
Tiffany & Co. Earrings Swallowed Following Grab-and-Run Theft Recovered

The two pairs of earrings, snatched from a Tiffany & Co. store in Orlando, Florida, are valued at a combined $769,500.

Emmanuel Raheb CEO of Smart Age Solutions
ColumnistsMar 25, 2025
The Smart Lab: Using Short-Form Videos to Sell More Jewelry

The time to start experimenting with video content is now, writes columnist Emmanuel Raheb.

Pomellato Nudo High Jewelry Campaign
CollectionsMar 24, 2025
Pomellato’s Latest ‘Nudo’ Collections Revamp its Classic Design

From striking high jewelry to miniature fine jewelry, the new chapter continues to highlight gemstones featuring its signature 57-facet cut.

Jamie Singleton, Bill Brace, Rebecca Wooters, Bill Luth
MajorsMar 24, 2025
4 Top Executives to Depart Signet Jewelers Amid Turnaround

The jewelry giant is reducing its senior leadership by 30 percent as part of its new turnaround strategy.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy