Editors

Forget the 4 C’s. Meet the 3 S’s.

EditorsFeb 08, 2019

Forget the 4 C’s. Meet the 3 S’s.

A Silicon Valley startup wants to shake up the way consumers think about diamonds, and it’s got nothing to do with lab-grown stones.

20190208_SparkleCut-header.jpg
Sparkle Cut, a new company led by an innovative group of Silicon Valley investors and entrepreneurs, wants consumers to think differently about how they buy diamonds. (Image courtesy of Sparkle Cut)

How many times has the average engagement ring owner looked at their diamond through a jeweler’s loupe?

Personally, I haven’t once, and a new Silicon Valley-based startup is banking on the idea that most brides won’t.

Sparkle Cut, founded and run by a group of tech venture capitalists, is selling diamonds that have undergone a proprietary technique of the same name in which micro-grooves are cut into the lower pavilion of the stone.

“It allows the light that would normally leave the bottom of the diamond to be sent back up through the table,” explained Sparkle Cut CEO Jo Lawson when I met with her in January.

The result is a diamond that sparkles more than one would imagine based on its lab report.

“We think the 4 C’s are valuable because it’s a baseline. But … that baseline needs a jeweler’s loupe.” – Jo Lawson, Sparkle Cut CEO

The nano-cuts, which are approximately 1/50 the size of a human hair, are invisible not only to the human eye but also under 30x magnification. They don’t affect a stone’s carat weight, nor any of its graded characteristics.

I had the chance to see about a dozen Sparkle Cut stones in person—all J and K color, 1- and 1.5-carat round brilliant diamonds set in finished engagement rings— and they do appear to be much brighter and lighter, more consistent with the G-I color range.

“Our claim to fame is that we can take any diamond, no matter what the 4 C’s are, and make them look more spectacular,” said Lawson.


Sparkle Cut launched in November and is focused on playful, tongue-in-cheek marketing and bright visuals to attract a modern engagement ring customer.

“We’ve found that brides care about size and sparkle. To keep the cost reasonable for a really highly graded, sparkly diamond means you typically have to sacrifice size.”

To battle this conundrum, Sparkle Cut wants consumers to focus on a different set of diamond-grading criteria, its trademarked 3 S’s—size, shape, and sparkle.

Lawson elaborated: “We love tradition and we think the 4 C’s are really valuable because it’s a baseline. But what we want to teach people is that that baseline needs a jeweler’s loupe and what they need to trust is how they feel about the ring. Seeing is believing. When I show people these diamonds they’re so surprised at how much they sparkle, (regardless of their grade).”

Sparkle Cut officially launched in November, selling directly to consumers on SparkleCut.com.

The site currently sells loose diamonds, finished diamond engagement rings via its online ring builder and diamond stud earrings.

All the stones are round brilliants between about 0.5-1.5 carats and most are in the J-K range, which the company says is the sweet spot for leveraging the most improvement and increased value with the sparkle cut technology.

The average retail price for an item on the site is between $3,000 and $10,000 but sales so far have ranged between $750 and $35,000, as Sparkle Cut allows for special orders for larger diamonds and settings not available on the website; the company also will apply the sparkle cut technology on a diamond that a consumer already owns.

This emphasis on customer service is indicative of how the company is approaching online-only sales—they want to make the experience as personal and high-touch as possible. Every piece sold comes with a lifetime warranty and can be returned in the first 40 days after purchase, no questions asked.

As the technology—which is native to the biotech and semiconductor industries develops, Sparkle Cut will move into fancy shapes, which Lawson predicts will be “super disruptive,” since they traditionally aren’t able to match the sparkle of a round brilliant.


Sparkle Cut’s website, in which consumers can build their own engagement rings, as well as purchase loose diamonds and finished diamond stud earrings, features 360-degree views of its stones, where you can even see a stone’s inclusions. Lawson said the inclusions are reminders of the stones’ “incredible formation journeys.”

Sparkle Cut hand-selects its diamonds from dealers in India before applying the sparkle cut technology in Florida, where it's legally headquartered. All of its stones are graded by either GIA or IGI.

Lawson said that other companies have tried similar techniques in the past, but none worked like Sparkle Cut. “There are others that do similar things,” she explained. “They cut around the pavilion, but you can see the cuts with the naked eye.”

GemEx, the company that quantifies and measures a diamond’s light performance, gave several Sparkle Cut diamonds its highest possible score.

"We scientifically measure the amount of sparkle a diamond generates,” explained GemEx CEO Randall Wagner. “A number of Sparkle Cut’s diamonds have achieved our highest sparkle rating, and many of their other diamonds are not far behind.”  

One of Sparkle Cut’s best endorsements, though, is Lawson herself.


Jo Lawson

She spent a decade at Apple running global teams across communications, customer experience, and retail. After founder Steve Jobs died she moved to Movado where she launched the company’s wearables division.

Sparkle Cut brought Lawson out of retirement because she recognized, just as she was trained to at Apple, that the technology benefits the end user in a non-traditional way; rather than training consumers how to pick the most “ideal” diamond according to industry standards, Sparkle Cut aims to deliver consumers the diamonds they want at better prices.

“I come in from the technology and luxury goods side of it, but I’ve never been in diamonds,” Lawson said. “My first question is always: Do customers care and how does this help a customer? Because if customers don’t care, I don’t have to spend time on it.”

It’s an attitude that relies on innovation, rather than following industry formulas, a value shared by the company’s co-founders who recruited Lawson: Pat Hopf—a venture capitalist and entrepreneur executive who specializes in early-stage companies disruptive to their industries, such as the Sleep Number bed—and Mark de Naray—Sleep Number bed’s former CEO who grew the business from less than a million in sales to more than $160 million.

“We don’t even know how to follow the formula,” Lawson told me. “The founders and original investors really believe in the product. We’re starting from solving a problem that exists, which is that everyone wants a more sparkly diamond. So we’re addressing something that’s really valuable to the customer, contextualizing it and letting them learn that what they value is what they should pay for.”

Though Sparkle Cut takes a non-traditional approach to assessing diamonds and amplifying their shine, the company is ultimately building upon the same emotional and cultural base that all fine jewelry relies upon—that a diamond’s formation deep in the earth over millions of year is miraculous and that jewelry is sentimental, meant to mark some of life’s big occasions and be passed down through families.

“What really excited me about Sparkle Cut was how we’re applying technology to a traditional, ethically mined diamond,” Lawson said. “Lab-grown diamonds are obviously highly technical but were using Sparkle Cut technology with naturally mined diamonds, just making them a little bit more beautiful.”

Lawson said that the company plans to host trunk shows and in-person Sparkle Cut events in the future. It’s also open to wholesale and white-label possibilities or letting industry members purchase the technology to give all of their diamonds the sparkle cut.

“One of the reasons I was compelled to join the company is because this has long legs. There are lots of directions this proprietary cut could go.”

Ashley Davisis the senior editor, fashion at National Jeweler, covering all things related to design, style and trends.

The Latest

Diamonds Direct Atlanta store
MajorsJul 26, 2024
Diamonds Direct Opens Store in Atlanta

It’s the Signet-owned banner’s first location in Georgia.

Bea Bongiasca’s Double Loop Earrings
TrendsJul 26, 2024
Piece of the Week: Bea Bongiasca’s ‘Double Loop’ Earrings

Commemorate “brat summer” with these green hoops.

Supplier BulletinJul 25, 2024
Meet Gemology’s Next Generation Microscope: GIA® Gemolite® NXT Professional Edition

Sponsored by Gemological Institute of America

Untitled design.jpg
Brought to you by
The End of an Era? Lab-Grown Diamonds' Journey Towards Price Stability

As the demand for lab-grown diamond jewelry may still be increasing, the most notable change we are likely to see is price stabilization.

Amazon package outside door
TechnologyJul 25, 2024
Amazon, BBB Sue Website Allegedly Peddling Fake Reviews

They claim ReviewServiceUSA.com was selling both positive and negative reviews of products and businesses.

Weekly QuizJul 25, 2024
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
De Beers’ Venetia diamond mine
SourcingJul 25, 2024
De Beers’ H1 Revenue Falls 21% in ‘Weak’ Market

Lab-grown diamond sales in the United States and ongoing economic challenges in China are impacting natural diamond demand.

IndependentsJul 25, 2024
Store Designer Ruth Mellergaard Dies

A longtime member of IJO, she’s remembered for her passion for design, learning, and environmentalism.

1872 x 1052 Gemolite.jpg
Brought to you by
Meet Gemology’s Next Generation Microscope: GIA® Gemolite® NXT Professional Edition

GIA®’s most advanced microscope has new features to optimize greater precision and comfort.

Pomellato Malachite Pom Pom Dot bracelet
FinancialsJul 25, 2024
Boucheron, Pomellato Post Double-Digit Growth in Q2

The gains come amid a tough time for parent company Kering, which saw sales slide 11 percent in the first half of the year.

Shane Co. and the Kids in Need foundation logo
MajorsJul 25, 2024
Shane Co. Partners With Kids In Need Foundation to Donate 7,200 Backpacks

The fine jewelry retailer filled backpacks with back-to-school essentials for students in 13 states.

Bulgari high jewelry campaign
FinancialsJul 24, 2024
LVMH’s First-Half Jewelry, Watch Sales Dip 5%

Tiffany & Co. is focusing on its “iconic” collections while the company has made changes at the top at TAG Heuer and Hublot.

Chaumet Paris 2024 Olympics medals
MajorsJul 24, 2024
See Chaumet’s Paris Olympic Medals Inspired by its High Jewelry

The Parisian brand is the first jewelry company in the history of the Olympic and Paralympic Games to design the medals.

Jewelers Mutual and Union Life and Casualty logos
MajorsJul 24, 2024
Jewelers Mutual Acquires Pawnbroker Insurance Provider

Union Life & Casualty will join JM Insurance Agency Partners, expanding the provider’s pawnbroker coverage.

Bradlei Smith
MajorsJul 24, 2024
Ben Bridge Announces 2024 Lonia Tate Scholarship Winner

Los Angeles-based Bradlei Smith was selected for this year’s award.

National Jeweler columnist Peter Smith
ColumnistsJul 23, 2024
Peter Smith: The Case for Optimism in Sales

In his latest column, Smith shares multiple reasons why people who look at the glass as being hall full often make better salespeople.

De Beers rough diamond display
SourcingJul 23, 2024
De Beers’ Production Drops 15% in Q2

The company also reported the $150 million sale of an iron ore royalty right, part of its ongoing effort to divest “non-core” assets.

Long’s Jewelers giveaway promo
IndependentsJul 23, 2024
Long’s Jewelers Is Giving Away a Luxury Cape Cod Vacation

The giveaway is part of the New England jeweler’s summer bridal event.

Sophia Moreno-Bunge of Isa Isa modeling Guzema’s Hidden Beauty collection
CollectionsJul 23, 2024
Guzema Debuts ‘Flower Power’ Campaign

The ad features three celebrity florists creating floral sculptures while wearing jewelry by Guzema.

Tresia Shituula, Monkgogi Moshaga, Mohamed Samu
Policies & IssuesJul 23, 2024
Diamonds Do Good Announces Its 2024 Entrepreneurship Grant Winners

The grant provided a total of $100,000 to support 13 entrepreneurs from diamond communities in Africa and India.

Ghazi “Gus” Michel Osta
CrimeJul 22, 2024
Florida Jeweler Shot, Killed Following Argument With Customer

Ghazi Michel Osta, or “Gus,” was killed Friday by an 83-year-old man said to be a frequent customer at his store, Volusia Gold & Diamond.

Elyssa Jenkins-Perez and Effie Marinos
Policies & IssuesJul 22, 2024
JVC’s Elyssa Jenkins-Pérez Joins RJC

The organization also announced Effie Marinos as its new specialist advisor for technical standards, as well as four other appointments.

Karen Rentmeesters
SourcingJul 22, 2024
AWDC Names Karen Rentmeesters as CEO

Rentmeesters has served as interim CEO since April following former CEO Ari Epstein’s resignation.

Brian and Jessie Mann
IndependentsJul 19, 2024
Longtime D.C. Jeweler Brian Mann Dies at 70

Mann, whose family’s jewelry store was located inside the Pentagon, is remembered for being a thoughtful champion of the industry.

Tudor store in Denver
IndependentsJul 19, 2024
The 1916 Company Opens New Tudor Boutique

The 500-square-foot boutique is located in Denver’s Cherry Creek Shopping Center.

Messika’s So Move Max Necklace
CollectionsJul 19, 2024
Piece of the Week: Messika’s ‘So Move Max’ Necklace

Dance all night long with the “So Move Max” set’s necklace.

Julien Tornare and Antoine Pin
WatchesJul 18, 2024
TAG Heuer, Hublot Will Have New CEOs

Luxury giant LVMH is reshuffling the leadership in its watches division.

Etsy billboard rendering in NYC
MajorsJul 18, 2024
New Etsy Campaign Prioritizes Creators Amid Backlash

Sellers and shoppers have spoken out against a rise in mass-produced merchandise on the platform meant to highlight handmade goods.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy