Editors

What It’s Like to Be a Field Gemologist, Part 2

EditorsMar 08, 2018

What It’s Like to Be a Field Gemologist, Part 2

Vincent Pardieu talks the green gem he’ll focus on this year, how the sector can work with conservation efforts and the knowledge many are lacking.

20180308_Header.jpg
Field gemologist Vincent Pardieu and his team went to Ethiopia in December. Here he is pictured holding a piece of emerald associated with mica and quartz collected as a reference sample for the Danat lab from Dogogo pit of the WGM mine. (Photo credit: Raphaelle Cousteix /Danat)

Vincent Pardieu has established a career that sees him jetting around the world to gather gemstones from the source for industry laboratories. To hear him tell it, it’s tough, important work that can also take him to interesting places and allows him to meet fascinating people.  

In the second part of a two-part Q&A with the field gemologist, we talk about memorable moments in his career, where it could take him next and challenges in the market today.

(Revisit the first half of our conversation here.)

National Jeweler: Is there a project or trip that is particularly memorable to you, whether that’s for a good or bad reason?

Vincent Pardieu: Mozambique is a very special place to me because that currently is the world’s leading source for rubies. I went to Mozambique at the very beginning. I was the first foreigner, the first gemologist, to be able to visit it and I have visited this ruby deposit every year since.

But it’s not just that. It’s these stories that happen to me. I was able to meet the people from the ruby deposit in Montepuez because of people from the Niassa Reserve, so then I started to collaborate with the people from the Niassa Reserve. They are conservationists. If I want to go to an area that is dedicated to conservation, I have to ask them for permission.

I started collaborating with them and gained some interest in the Niassa Lion Project. Now, every time I go to Mozambique, I go to visit the ruby mine and I also go to visit Niassa to understand the interaction between mining and conservation because I was able to see that, in some cases in Africa, you have some discoveries of gemstones inside areas dedicated to conversation.

Sometimes it turns out to be a win-win situation because the miners and the people in charge of conservation collaborate. But in other cases, it’s a total disaster because they have conflicts.

I was able to see some very positive stories, for example in Kenya, where you have mining inside Tsavo National Park. I was able to meet Campbell Bridges during my first visit to Africa in 2005, and I was very impressed to see that he named a stone after the national park and was mining these stones just inside Tsavo and trying to support conservation in this area, helping

the national park to fight against poaching and things like that. So there was a positive synergy between the park, tsavorite and tsavorite miners.


But that’s not always the case. Like recently in Madagascar, where you have some sapphire discoveries inside one of the last protected forest areas, you have thousands of miners invading the protected area and now there is a direct conflict between the conservationists trying to protect this area and sapphire traders and miners.

So I’m trying to help find some solutions because, from what I see, in some areas conservation and gem mining can work together, and there are some opportunities for the gem trade and conservation to collaborate, but if there are conflicts, I think it can be very dangerous for the gem trade because we are making enemies that we don’t really want to make.

NJ: So in these situations, you’re sort of playing a role where you are also trying to help figure out how to branch the two, as well as doing the field research?

VP: Yes. Because I need to speak with them in order to access these areas. When I go to an area, I go to see the authorities, and sometimes there are some security issues so I have to ask for permission. And of course, every time I speak with the authorities, they ask me my opinion (about the mining sites), because very regularly I see that the guys in charge never have visited the sites. So I try to convince them to, No. 1, let me go, and maybe let me go with some policemen or some technicians.

Then I come back and I tell them what I have seen. The whole time there is collaboration because I need to get access and be able to collect some samples, and in exchange I provide them with information and with some advice.

NJ: Is there anywhere you haven’t been or any projects you haven’t started yet that you would still like to do?

VP: There are a lot of places. During the past eight years for GIA I focused on rubies and sapphires, but this year I think I will focus on emeralds. I plan to visit quite a lot of emerald deposits in the coming year, so probably go to Brazil, Colombia and some other emerald sites I haven’t visited yet, like Madagascar and Austria. I visited some emerald mines when they were close to the ruby and sapphire mines. Emerald was my priority No. 3, and now it’s becoming my priority No. 1.

There are plenty of countries where I haven’t put my feet and with this focus on emerald, I will be able to find a good reason to go there. That will be fun.

NJ: To take a broad look at the market, from your perspective, what are some of the biggest challenges that the colored gemstone sector faces today?

VP: There are multiple. There is always the challenge that most people understand very, very little about colored stones and they have a very limited knowledge about colored stones, so this creates an opportunity for some to take advantage of the lack of knowledge.

(Specifically I’m talking about) technical knowledge about, for example, synthetic treatments and how to speak about treatment. The trade still doesn’t know how to speak about treatment. They are trying to avoid it because treatment sounds bad. Many people in the trade are afraid to speak about treatments so they prefer not to, so (the challenge is) how to handle treatment, how to communicate about treatment, how to explain to the customer that treatment is not always a bad thing.
“The trade still doesn’t know how to speak about treatment. They are trying to avoid it because treatment sounds bad. Many people in the trade are afraid to speak about treatments so they prefer not to.”
For many mining areas now, you need treatment. If you don’t have treatment, only maybe less than 1 percent of the production would be able to find a market. But I don’t know any business that can survive with 1 percent of production. If there is a mining area that is active, it’s probably because there is a treatment. And, actually, untreated stones are a byproduct of mining for a stone that will be treated.

For example, rubies; to find rubies that don’t need heat treatment, there might be one stone like that out of 100. But if the 100 don’t find a market, it will not be profitable for the miner to work the project.

It’s very difficult. The miners have to be able to sell their daily production to be able to survive. Most of the miners don’t have enough capital to survive until they get an exceptional stone. Mining is not about getting exceptional stones; it’s about getting some stones and then from time to time, there will be an exceptional stone. This is one of the difficulties the trade has. 

Also, speaking about origin; origin is complicated because there are many different labs with different opinions. Some labs are not doing research, some labs are. But they still all have an opinion. And the final customer has the problem of figuring out which labs they should trust the most.

For colored stones, it’s complicated because you have a great variety of choice—so many stones and so many colors. Many people feel lost because they don’t know who to trust, they feel like there’s so much to learn and they don’t know enough so maybe they should think about buying something else. How to maintain the trust in the product—I think the colored stone sector has a lot to improve in that area.
Brecken Branstratoris the senior editor, gemstones at National Jeweler, covering sourcing, pricing and other developments in the colored stone sector.

The Latest

Stock image of crime scene tape and police cars
CrimeOct 22, 2026
Jeweler Shot and Killed in His Suburban Cincinnati Store

Tara Sinchuri was the owner of Everest Jewels in Fairfield, Ohio, and a father of three. He was found dead in his store on Tuesday.

Verdura cuffs
MajorsOct 22, 2026
Neiman Marcus Has Gifts for the Jewelry Lover Who Has Everything

Bespoke experiences from Buccellati and Verdura are on the retailer’s 2026 “Fantasy Gifts” list.

JIS Fall 2026 jewelry
Events & AwardsOct 22, 2026
JIS Fall 2026 Reports Record-Breaking Attendance

The number of participants at the fall show was up 12 percent.

DeBeersICONS_TITLE1_CUSTOMCONTENT_1872x1052 (1).jpg
Brought to you by
A Diamond Is Forever Launches 2026 Holiday Campaign Championing Natural Diamonds

A Diamond Is Forever's holiday campaign reimagines natural diamond icons for a new generation celebrating individuality.

John Hardy Billie Eilish & Finneas Collection Campaign Imagery
CollectionsOct 22, 2026
Billie Eilish, Finneas Co-Design Collection for John Hardy

The Academy and Grammy award-winning siblings have collaborated with John Hardy on a new jewelry line inspired by their personal style.

Weekly QuizOct 22, 2026
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Graphic for episode 10 of the My Next Question podcast
PodcastsOct 21, 2026
Episode 10: This Episode Is Haunted 

Diana Singer shared the stories of two “cursed” diamonds on this month’s podcast, which was inexplicably riddled with technical issues.

Gardner Collier Jewelry store in Kirksville Missouri
IndependentsOct 21, 2026
Gardner-Collier Jewelry to Close After 9 Decades in Business

The family-owned jeweler has three locations across Missouri and Iowa.

lab channel btyb 0926.png
Brought to you by
Open an Account, Get $50 Off Your First Order. No Code Needed.

Built on Relationships. Refined by Craft.

Underground shaft at the Venetia diamond mine
SourcingOct 21, 2026
Venetia Mines Final Carats Ahead of 2-Year Shutdown

The De Beers-owned diamond mine in South Africa is being put on ice as part of a round of previously announced cost-cutting measures.

Off-White Jewelry Collection Imagery
CollectionsOct 21, 2026
Helzberg, Nordstrom Carrying New Jewelry Collection From Off-White

The collection centers designs with clean geometric lines, chunky sculptural pieces, and recognizable details from the luxury fashion brand.

Gemfields rubies
SourcingOct 21, 2026
Gemfields’ Mixed-Quality Ruby Auction Earns $52M

The miner said it saw particularly strong prices for larger, fine-quality rubies at the sale.

Stock image of police cars with lights on
CrimeOct 20, 2026
Security Guard Charged With Murder in Shooting at Texas Mall

The guard opened fire on a man who was smashing a jewelry display case at La Gran Plaza in Fort Worth last week, police said.

David Gardner’s Jewelers interior
IndependentsOct 20, 2026
David Gardner’s Jewelers Unveils Newly Expanded, Revamped Showroom

The Texas jeweler added 2,000 square feet to its reimagined showroom, complete with a new design studio and an event space.

Kylie Jenner Fantasy Bra Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show
SourcingOct 20, 2026
The $50M Victoria’s Secret ‘Fantasy Bra’ By The Numbers

Jacob & Co.'s diamond masterpiece is the most expensive Fantasy Bra ever worn on the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show runway.

Mignon Faget Atelier Collection Campaign Imagery
CollectionsOct 20, 2026
Mignon Faget’s Collection Chooses Handmade Over AI

The “Atelier” collection was inspired by the tools, rituals, and objects in an artist’s studio as a quiet rebuttal to an automated world.

 Rio Grande engagement ring and band
MajorsOct 19, 2026
The Knot to Acquire Rival Wedding Planning Platform Zola

The pending acquisition is an “exciting opportunity” for wedding vendors to grow their business, said The Knot Worldwide’s CEO.

The Secret Gems Thailand
SourcingOct 19, 2026
Jewelry Design Competition Show Airs in Thailand

"The Secret Gems" features eight Thai jewelry brands paired with a team of young craftspeople who create jewelry together to win challenges.

John Hardy Modern Talisman Collection Campaign Imagery
CollectionsOct 19, 2026
John Hardy Enters the Medallion Chat With Talisman Collection

The brand’s “Modern Talisman” capsule collection introduces pendants inspired by the mythology, natural world, and spiritual ethos of Bali.

Collage of independent jewelers celebrating their 100th anniversary in 2026
IndependentsOct 19, 2026
The Stories of 5 Jewelers Celebrating Their Centennials in 2026

Independent jewelers from New Mexico to New Jersey answer the question: What has kept your store in business for 100 years?

Hand holding shopping bags
SurveysOct 16, 2026
How Inflation, Gas Prices Will Affect Holiday Sales

The NRF is expecting holiday sales to increase this year, but consumers and retailers alike are facing Grinch-like headwinds.

Christina Puchi Gemstone Earrings
CollectionsOct 16, 2026
Christina Puchi’s Earrings Hold the Universe

Our Piece of the Week gathers the planets, represented by a variety of colored gemstones, in a pair of 14-karat yellow gold earrings.

Reeds Jewelers Fayetteville
IndependentsOct 16, 2026
Reeds Jewelers Expands, Relocates Flagship

The New York-based jeweler is moving its Amherst flagship store to a larger location in nearby Snyder.

Graff USA Executive Vice President Katy Chen
MajorsOct 16, 2026
Katy Chen Appointed Executive Vice President of Graff USA

Chen, who worked at Cartier and Tiffany & Co., will lead retail sales and operations for the luxury jeweler’s 11 U.S. stores.

Elise & Amy Greenberg
IndependentsOct 15, 2026
Retailer Hall of Fame 2026: Amy and Elise Greenberg

For 40 years, sisters Amy and Elise Greenberg have helmed their 126-year-old family business, leading with appreciation and integrity.

The Retail Smiths Principal Partner Peter Smith
ColumnistsOct 15, 2026
Peter Smith: What Is the Culture REP?

It’s a term Smith coined and felt compelled to share following a bad experience with an aborted flight and an unfeeling flight attendant.

Stephanie Gottlieb Movado watches
WatchesOct 15, 2026
Stephanie Gottlieb’s New Movado Watches Are Made for Your Wrist Stack

Movado teamed up with the New York-based fine jewelry designer on a new collection of Movado Museum Velura watches.

Polished diamond in tweezers
SourcingOct 15, 2026
Signet Jewelers, Richemont May Join Bidder for De Beers, Report Says

The two companies are reportedly in talks to join the Global Diamond Consortium, led by former De Beers CEO Gareth Penny, as per Bloomberg.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy