Editors

The Malaise of Macy’s

EditorsFeb 08, 2017

The Malaise of Macy’s

One of Macy’s biggest problems has been its inability to convert Kaufmann’s shoppers, Editor-in-Chief (and Western Pennsylvania native) Michelle Graff writes.

2017_Macys-flagship.jpg
Macy’s flagship store in Herald’s Square, New York City. The retailer ranks No. 4 on National Jeweler’s 2016 list of $100 Million Supersellers with an estimated $1.56 billion in watch and jewelry sales in 2015.

I started this blog on Friday after reading numerous reports about the possible sale of Macy’s.

Since then, there has been other major news that’s broken in the retail world.

On Sunday, Tiffany & Co. announced that CEO Frederic Cumenal was stepping down and would be temporarily replaced by Chairman and former CEO Michael Kowalski while the jeweler hunts for a permanent leader.

Though some news outlets seemed shocked by the news, I wasn’t. 

The retailer’s sales have been, to coin Kowalski, disappointing. Worldwide net sales rose 1 percent, declined 6 percent and 7 percent in the last three quarters, and Tiffany has posted poor holiday performances back-to-back.

I don’t think it’s hard to understand why Cumenal no longer has the corner office, or why another big jewelry retailer, Signet Jewelers Ltd., also recently changed up its senior management after its holiday season was less than stellar.

Retail is changing and retailers--particularly public companies that have to answer to shareholders--have to change with it.

So, while I may return to the topics of Signet and/or Tiffany at a later date, for now I want to talk about Macy’s, Retail Dive and an interesting conversation I recently had with my mother.

While reading multiple stories about the murky future of Macy’s on Friday, I came across this excellent analysis from RetailDive.com.

In her article, Contributing Editor Daphne Howland argues that what’s killing Macy’s isn’t competition from Amazon or off-price outlets but, rather, Federated Department Stores’ (which later changed its name to Macy’s) 2005 purchase of The May Company. 

The acquisition left the retailer over-stored and unable to offer exactly what customers want in every market.

Federated/Macy’s bought up “thriving” regional chains--like Kaufmann’s in Western Pennsylvania, a retail staple of my youth--with roots in their respective communities and made them “cogs in a machine,” the articles states.

The story struck a chord with me because of a recent conversation I had with my mother, in which we got to talking about the state of retail where I grew up, in Beaver County, Pennsylvania.

Mom was telling me how she’d read in the local newspaper (long live print journalism!) that the Macy’s store in the Beaver Valley Mall--which I made famous via this blog before--was one of the many Macy’s that closed at the end of last year.

She wasn’t surprised to read that Macy’s was shutting down because it

was never very busy when she shopped there, which, she also said, was not that often because she didn’t really like it.

To my mom, the store went downhill after it was converted from Kaufmann’s into Macy’s; she never saw much in there that she wanted to buy and the store itself wasn’t as nice either.

And, Mom said, a lot of other people in the area felt the same way.

Kaufmann’s had deep local roots.

Founded by 1871 by Jacob and Isaac Kaufmann, the department store was part of the fabric of Western Pennsylvania for decades. There’s the iconic clock in downtown Pittsburgh (“Meet me under the Kaufmann’s clock.”) and Fallingwater, the amazing Frank Lloyd Wright-designed weekend home the Kaufmann family had built in Mill Run, Pennsylvania, a must-see if you ever get to the area.

There really wasn’t any way for Macy’s to emulate that and, as a result, what ended up happening is exactly what my mom observed: People really never came to love Macy’s the way they loved Kaufmann’s.   

My mom’s musings on Macy’s sum up perfectly the point that was made in the Retail Dive article.

The retailer got too big to deliver any kind of personalized experience to customers, to stock each store with merchandise that suited them and to make area residents feel that Macy’s knew what they liked.

And, it seems, this lack of personalization was especially detrimental to Macy’s in Midwest metropolitan regions like Pittsburgh, as this is where Macy’s is expected to close the most stores, according to Retail Dive.

Retail today is so different and so difficult that I cannot offer jewelers a panacea, a single solution for all their store’s problems. I cannot say that being a town’s “local jeweler” will save a store because, as we’ve seen, longtime family-owned retailers are closing down too. 

And I cannot say that remaining a Kaufmann’s would have saved this specific store, given the long, slow economic decline of the area surrounding it and the myriad challenges facing brick-and-mortar retailers today, particularly those situated in aging malls.

But I think what can be learned from Macy’s is that for retailers, local/regional names do carry weight among area residents and aren’t necessarily so easily replaced.

As National Jeweler columnist Peter Smith stated when commenting on this story about San Francisco retailer Shreve & Co. closing the Portland, Oregon storeit opened in the space once occupied by 88-year-old store Carl Greve Jewelers: “I wonder if things would have been different if they had kept the Carl Greve name? Shreve’s had no awareness in that market. Sad to see.”

There is value in having a connection to the community and in knowing exactly what your customers want.
Michelle Graffis the editor-in-chief at National Jeweler, directing the publication’s coverage both online and in print.

The Latest

Stock image of a person holding holidays bags
SurveysOct 09, 2026
These Will Be the 10 Busiest Days for In-Store Shopping This Holiday Season

Stores should expect to see the most customers on Nov. 27, and Christmas week is expected to be hectic too, as Dec. 25 falls on a Friday.

Elisa Solomon x Serendipity 3 Frozen Hot Chocolate Charm
CollectionsOct 09, 2026
Elisa Solomon Collabs With Serendipity 3 on ‘Frozen Hot Chocolate’ Charm

The charm, our Piece of the Week, features brown diamond frozen hot chocolate topped with white diamond whipped cream and a ruby straw.

8 carat fancy blue diamond
AuctionsOct 09, 2026
8-Carat Blue Diamond Goes Unsold at UK Jewelry Auction

The top lot of Elmwood’s recent fine jewelry sale in London was a 1.84-carat, D color Tiffany & Co. solitaire diamond ring.

1872 x 1052 Gemolite.jpg
Brought to you by
Meet Gemology’s Next Generation Microscope: GIA® Gemolite® NXT Professional Edition

Experience gemstones with greater precision and comfort than ever before.

Ebel sport classic watch
WatchesOct 09, 2026
Movado to Sell Majority Stake in Ebel for $66.5M

The watch company agreed to sell a 95 percent interest to a group comprised of F.P. Journe, Chanel, and Swiss watch exec Pierre Jacques.

Weekly QuizOct 08, 2026
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Stock image of paper money and coins
Policies & IssuesOct 08, 2026
Third Wave of IEEPA Tariff Refunds Begins

This round of tariff refunds is for importers that have sued over IEEPA tariffs in the Court of International Trade and won.

Brent Neale Back to Basics Collection Pink Garnet Capsule
CollectionsOct 08, 2026
Brent Neale’s New Collection Goes ‘Back to Basics’

It revisits the brand’s most requested silhouettes, from "Pillow"-set necklaces and bracelets to "Signature"-set rings and earrings.

Cover.jpg
Brought to you by
Your Piece Could Be the One Editors Talk About

Submit your pieces for a chance to win in this year's competition.

Ethical Gem Fair Brooklyn
SourcingOct 08, 2026
Ethical Gem Fair Heads Back to Brooklyn

The trade-only event includes buying opportunities as well as educational sessions on artisanal mining, the new Paraíba source, and more.

Ara Chanakian Overall Design Winner
Events & AwardsOct 08, 2026
Pattons Fine Jewelry Sweeps Local Design Contest

Ara Chanakian, a jeweler at Pattons, took home top honors in every category at Jewelers of Louisiana’s annual jewelry design competition.

Reba McEntire belt buckle
AuctionsOct 08, 2026
Reba McEntire’s Jewelry, Watches Head to Julien’s Auctions

The live charity benefit sale in Nashville will also feature gowns, boots, and other memorabilia from the country music legend.

overnght sb 1026.png
Supplier BulletinOct 08, 2026
Overnight Mountings’ Bridal Builder Helps Jewelers Turn Custom Design into a Hands-On Selling Experience

Sponsored by Overnight Mountings

The entrance to The Plumb Club pavilion at JCK Las Vegas
Policies & IssuesOct 07, 2026
The Plumb Club Amplifies Its Voice as Geopolitical Pressures Mount

The supplier organization recently joined JA and JVC to have more input on political issues affecting the jewelry industry.

Woman wearing Blue Nile Royal Asscher jewelry
CollectionsOct 07, 2026
Blue Nile, Royal Asscher Collection Highlights Natural Diamond Beauty

Blue Nile, a Signet Jewelers-owned brand, is now Royal Asscher’s exclusive licensed retailer in North America.

Audemars Piguet Risoud Eclipse Necklace
CollectionsOct 07, 2026
4 Standout Pieces in Audemars Piguet’s First High Jewelry Collection

“Royal Oak” pays homage to the brand’s most popular watch model using 18-karat gold as well as diamonds, emeralds, and sapphires.

Juan Morales and Joseph Nicosia
MajorsOct 07, 2026
Empire Safe & Vault Promotes Juan Morales to CEO

As part of the transition, Joseph Nicosia has stepped into the role of COO.

American Gem Trade Association logo
SourcingOct 07, 2026
AGTA Extends Deadline for 2026 Spectrum Awards Entries

Participants now have until Oct. 14 to complete their submissions.

Stock image a police car
Policies & IssuesOct 06, 2026
6 Charged in Connection to String of New Jersey Smash-and-Grabs

The alleged thieves used crow bars and sledgehammers to smash into jewelry stores across the state.

The Retail Smiths Principal Partner Sherry Smith
ColumnistsOct 06, 2026
Sherry Smith: Is the Consumer Really Trading Up?

Ahead of the holidays, Smith urges jewelers to take a hard look at who’s buying jewelry, what they’re purchasing, and who’s stopped buying.

Molly Stillman @fashionveggie, Beth Jones @bjonesstyle, Helene Cortez @cortezhelene, and Haley Jordan @haleyjordan12 
SourcingOct 06, 2026
DDG Taps Influencers for ‘My Diamond Does Good’ Campaign

In the new consumer-facing campaign, four fashion and lifestyle creators share the stories behind their natural diamond pieces.

Bryan Cowan and Tom Schwartz
MajorsOct 06, 2026
Frederick Goldman Names COO, CMO

FGI President John Orrico is also leaving the company after more than 13 years.

JIS Miami fall
Events & AwardsOct 06, 2026
JIS Fall Returns to Miami

The 2026 edition will feature presentations on alternative materials and design trends, as well as pop-up activations on the show floor.

Gahcho Kue rough diamonds
SourcingOct 05, 2026
De Beers to Take Full Ownership of Gahcho Kué

It is the last fully operational diamond mine in Canada following the recent closures of Ekati and Diavik.

Tiffany gold cat pin Sandy Lerner
AuctionsOct 05, 2026
The Star Cats of the Sandy Lerner Auction

These jewels stood out at Bonhams’ sale of the cat-loving tech entrepreneur’s collection of objects depicting the feline form.

Sorellina Postscript Collection Campaign Imagery of Paper Plane Pendant
CollectionsOct 05, 2026
Sorellina Writes Another Love Letter for ‘Postscript’ Collection

The fine jewelry brand has expanded the collection that debuted at Couture with four new designs based on its most popular styles.

Bruce Bridges CIBJO
SourcingOct 05, 2026
Bruce Bridges Joins CIBJO Board

The AGTA president was elected for a two-year term on the board of directors.

Aerial image of the Lungwebungu River
SourcingOct 02, 2026
De Beers, National Geographic Society Renew Okavango Eternal Partnership

The partnership, a pledge to protect Africa’s Okavango River Basin, has been extended for an additional five years.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy