In a column for the 2026 State of the Majors issue, Golan spells out how the growing economic divide in the U.S. is reshaping the market.
Cartier Clock Collection Totals $2.3M at Auction
Sold online by Christie’s, the rare clocks garnered less than half of what was expected.

Geneva—Though several of the rare Cartier clocks on the block went for more than predicted at a recent Christie’s auction, the total for the collection fell short of its pre-sale estimates.
From July 7-21, the auction house offered 101 Cartier clocks from a private collection amassed over three decades.
It represented more than 80 years of clockmaking at the storied maison, featuring examples from the late 19th century through the 1980s with enamel, gemstones and carved hardstones.
Originally scheduled to be a part of the Magnificent Jewels auction July 1 in Geneva, Christie’s ended up making it a standalone online auction, “A Lifetime of Collecting – 101 Cartier Clocks.”
The auction included some of the most sought-after Cartier timepieces of their period, including an underwater periscope-inspired prism clock, semi-mystery clocks called “planet” or “comets,” and two rare chronoscope clocks created by master horologist Maurice Coüet.
Coüet’s relationship with Cartier helped establish the jewelry house as a leading manufacturer of jeweled objects.
The auction’s total of CHF 2.1 million (about $2.3 million) fell about $2 million short of its pre-sale estimate of CHF 3.9 million to CHF 5.7 million (about $4 million to $5.9 million), with less than half of the lots selling.
The top lot of the sale was the 1913 Cartier Belle Époque “Planet Semi-Mystery Day and Night” clock seen at the top of the article.
Made with agate, white and light-blue enamel, rose-cut diamonds and gold, the clock is inscribed with “I do not count the hours if they are not brilliant” in Latin.
It was estimated to sell for between CHF 140,000 and CHF 200,000 (about $150,000 and $210,000) but ended up garnering CHF 300,000 (about $321,000).
Following at No. 2 was the 1926 Art Deco Cartier desk clock seen above, featuring a circular burgauté lacquer dial inset with cabochon moonstones, mother-of-pearl, enamel, cabochon turquoises and rose-cut diamonds.
It fell within its pre-sale estimate range when it sold for CHF 162,500 (about $174,000).
Tied at No. 3 were two more clocks from the Art Deco period.
One has blue guilloché and enamel, rose-cut diamonds, rock crystal, silver and gold, the other a lapis lazuli dial, carved jade center panel, kingfisher feather surround with enamel detailing, carved emerald trees details and turquoise details (pictured below).
Both sold for CHF 150,000 (about $161,000).
At No. 5 was an early 20th century mystery clock made with light pink opalescent guilloché
The final clock to achieve six digits in the online auction was an early 20th century “Comet” semi-mystery clock with light orangey-pink guilloche and white enamel, rock crystal and rose-cut diamonds.
It went for CHF 125,000 (about $134,000).
To see more of the Cartier clocks, visit Christies’s website.
The Latest

The “Limitless Expansion of Joy and Hope” collection evokes summer through colored gemstones and motifs of butterflies and florals.

The jewel, circa 1890, is from the late Victorian era and was owned by descendants of the last high king of Ireland.

With the trade and customer trust in mind, GIA® developed NextGem™ – on-demand training designed specifically for retail.

This is what the nine recipients plan to do with the funds.


The discussion, "Rebuilding the Jewelry Workforce," will take place on Saturday, May 16, in Troy, Michigan.

The jewelry industry is reassessing its positioning as Gen Z reshapes the retail landscape and lab grown continues to gain market share.

Gain access to the most exclusive and coveted antique pieces from trusted dealers during Las Vegas Jewelry Week.

Sponsored by A Diamond Is Forever

The next generation of lapidarists are entrepreneurial, engaged online, and see the craft as a means for artistic expression.

It was the second auction appearance for the fancy vivid blue-green diamond, which sold for $7.8 million at Christie’s Geneva 12 years ago.

Members of the U.S. Marshals Task Force took a 22-year-old man into custody. He was charged with tampering with evidence.

While the overall number of crimes was down, there were more incidences in which robbers pulled out guns, mace, or rammed cars into stores.

Jack Sutton Fine Jewelry is closing its store inside the downtown shopping center after 40 years in business.

Reena Ahluwalia’s painting of the rare red diamond is the first contemporary painting to join the National Gem Collection.

The price of gold has risen, affecting the number of pieces designers make, the materials they use, and how they position themselves.

Peter Smith gives tips on leading meetings, developing marketing, and making trade show appointments in the age of short attention spans.

The 11-piece “Medallions” capsule collection features five motifs: a crying eye, a heart on fire, a spiral, a flower, and a swallow.

From Gen Z’s view of luxury to “doom spending,” these are the six consumer trends to note this year.

The partners have announced the second cycle of the program, which has expanded to include a $25,000 student scholarship.

The owners of Staats Jewelers are heading into retirement.

Jeffrey Gennette, who retired in 2024 after 41 years with Macy’s, is the newest member of the jewelry retailer’s board of directors.

May babies are lucky to have emeralds, a gemstone admired for centuries, as their birthstone, writes Amanda Gizzi.

The new module allows retailers to plan, promote, and measure the success of events from a single dashboard.

NDC said in an open letter that Pandora’s statements about the carbon footprint of lab grown versus natural diamonds are inaccurate.

The diamantaire and industry leader succeeds Feriel Zerouki and said he will focus on being a “champion” for natural diamonds.

She wore our Piece of the Week, Glenn Spiro’s “Old Moghul Golconda” earrings, featuring fancy brown-yellow diamonds totaling 51.90 carats.

























