This Buddha Mama butterfly is our Piece of the Week honoring the legend, who embraced the beautiful insect as her symbol.
A primer on lead glass-filled rubies
With all the recent consumer press reports accusing major chains of selling lead glass-filled rubies without proper disclosure, Associate Editor Brecken Branstrator takes a look at the rules for selling these stones.
While the prevalence of lead glass-filled rubies in the market and the issue of non-disclosure to consumers is far from new to the industry, it has been given new life in the consumer press in recent months.
The creation of these stones involves taking very low-quality, industrial-grade ruby and infusing it with glass that has a high lead content. Some stones are more ruby than glass while other are more glass than ruby.
In either case, the amount of glass in these stones is significant and they must be handled carefully because the glass can be damaged by a variety of standard practices. These stones are very unstable under normal conditions of wear and tear and can be damaged even by common household cleaners.
Though selling these types of rubies is legal, the Federal Trade Commission’s guides for jewelry requires disclosure at the point of sale when it comes to the treatment and care needed. According to its Guides for the Jewelry, Precious Metals, and Pewter Industries, “it is unfair or deceptive to use the unqualified [word] ‘ruby’… to describe any product that is not in fact a natural stone of the type described.”
This photo provided by American Gemological Laboratories shows a composite ruby that has been damaged during jewelry repair, which happens due to the high content of lead-glass in these stones.
The lack of disclosing results in not only a loss of consumer confidence in regard to rubies but for all jewelry in general, as well as opens up the retailer to the possibility of legal action. This is why it’s more important than ever for retailers to be aware of what’s expected of them.“If it has lead glass in it, it has to be disclosed that it’s treated and requires special care,” Jewelers Vigilance Committee’s Cecilia Gardner told me.
She added that when it comes to the term “natural,” she has had many gemologists tell her that after examining these kinds of rubies, they have found that there is so little natural material that labeling it as such would be inappropriate.
The JVC, along with a number of other trade organizations, submitted a brief to the FTC suggesting a number of revisions to its Guides so that there can be a standard throughout the industry.
They have taken the stand that the following vocabulary be used:
--That “natural” be used to refer to untreated rubies;
--That “treated” be used to identify a ruby that has been treated in a traditional methods, such as heating to modify color or healing open fissures by adding chemicals, and to which no significant weight is added;
--And that “imitation,” “manufactured,” “composite,” or “simulated” be used to describe the rubies that are low-grade, non-gem corundum and are infused or combined with lead glass to produce a stone that appears to be of higher quality, to which significant weight has been added.
When it comes down to it, the best way to avoid any issues is to be vigilant. Press suppliers for full disclosure, and provide the same for your customers to ensure their continued trust about the business in the future and to avoid legal action, from them or the government.
The Latest

The former De Beers CEO, and perhaps its next owner, will be a featured speaker at the event, slated for Sept. 4-7 in Italy.

The employee-owned jeweler was named a “Best Place to Work” in Maine, New Hampshire, and for women.

Submit your pieces for a chance to win in this year's competition.

The second iteration of the jewelry collection was inspired by the zodiac and the four elements: earth, water, air and fire.


General License 104B supersedes General License 104A, which was set to expire on Sept. 1.

The package, intercepted in Indianapolis, contained fake Cartier, Tiffany & Co., and Van Cleef and Arpels jewelry.

Retailers are seeking new ways to attract customers, increase traffic, and create revenue – Estate buying events are a popular solution.

The new location in Costa Mesa, California, marks the brand’s second store in the United States and fourth standalone location worldwide.

The fashion watch category was once threatened by the Apple Watch, but consumers are now opting for new wearables, said Movado’s CEO.

The report delves into trending styles, the most popular jewelry brands by city, and why Belle Époque jewelry could be the next big thing.

The association added the requirement to its revised "Code of Ethics" and released the 17th edition of its “Gemstone Information Manual.”

Respondents were concerned about the future of the labor market and their income as well as the rising prices of gas and groceries.

The campaign highlights the asymmetrical high jewelry necklace style that the jeweler first created in 1879.

It will explore the life of “The King of Diamonds” and showcase more than 165 creations from the brand.

Two suspects have been arrested in connection with the complex phone scam.

In her first column for National Jeweler, Jennifer Shaheen asks jewelers if they know how to connect with the next generation of consumers.

The annual awards cover tuition for an on-site educational course at the Swiss lab, as well as flights and lodging.

The jeweler partnered with the Tennessee resort to honor its 50th anniversary with limited-edition blackberry pendants and earrings.

The class, led by renowned metalsmith Cynthia Eid, highlighted Argentium silver as an alternative to gold amid high prices.

The show is slated for Oct. 16-19 at the Miami Beach Convention Center.

The “Empresses” capsule uses 19th-century medals depicting Napoleon, Joséphine, and Marie-Louise across five one-of-a-kind pieces.

The retailers at the top of the list offer affordable products and fun, discovery-fueled experiences.

Daniel Bing was formerly the marketing director for the Americas at Vacheron Constantin.

In our Piece of the Week, the designers reimagine the tennis bracelet with green enamel wrapped around a strand of “Desert Diamonds.”

The industry veterans join the podcast to discuss diamond marketing, the FTC Jewelry Guides, and lobbying for lower tariffs.

Founder Vik Westermann said the app is a “starting point” to inspire people to work with appraisers and gem labs, not replace them.























