Parent company Saks Global is also closing nearly all Saks Off 5th locations, a Neiman Marcus store, and 14 personal styling suites.
A primer on lead glass-filled rubies
With all the recent consumer press reports accusing major chains of selling lead glass-filled rubies without proper disclosure, Associate Editor Brecken Branstrator takes a look at the rules for selling these stones.
While the prevalence of lead glass-filled rubies in the market and the issue of non-disclosure to consumers is far from new to the industry, it has been given new life in the consumer press in recent months.
The creation of these stones involves taking very low-quality, industrial-grade ruby and infusing it with glass that has a high lead content. Some stones are more ruby than glass while other are more glass than ruby.
In either case, the amount of glass in these stones is significant and they must be handled carefully because the glass can be damaged by a variety of standard practices. These stones are very unstable under normal conditions of wear and tear and can be damaged even by common household cleaners.
Though selling these types of rubies is legal, the Federal Trade Commission’s guides for jewelry requires disclosure at the point of sale when it comes to the treatment and care needed. According to its Guides for the Jewelry, Precious Metals, and Pewter Industries, “it is unfair or deceptive to use the unqualified [word] ‘ruby’… to describe any product that is not in fact a natural stone of the type described.”
This photo provided by American Gemological Laboratories shows a composite ruby that has been damaged during jewelry repair, which happens due to the high content of lead-glass in these stones.
The lack of disclosing results in not only a loss of consumer confidence in regard to rubies but for all jewelry in general, as well as opens up the retailer to the possibility of legal action. This is why it’s more important than ever for retailers to be aware of what’s expected of them.“If it has lead glass in it, it has to be disclosed that it’s treated and requires special care,” Jewelers Vigilance Committee’s Cecilia Gardner told me.
She added that when it comes to the term “natural,” she has had many gemologists tell her that after examining these kinds of rubies, they have found that there is so little natural material that labeling it as such would be inappropriate.
The JVC, along with a number of other trade organizations, submitted a brief to the FTC suggesting a number of revisions to its Guides so that there can be a standard throughout the industry.
They have taken the stand that the following vocabulary be used:
--That “natural” be used to refer to untreated rubies;
--That “treated” be used to identify a ruby that has been treated in a traditional methods, such as heating to modify color or healing open fissures by adding chemicals, and to which no significant weight is added;
--And that “imitation,” “manufactured,” “composite,” or “simulated” be used to describe the rubies that are low-grade, non-gem corundum and are infused or combined with lead glass to produce a stone that appears to be of higher quality, to which significant weight has been added.
When it comes down to it, the best way to avoid any issues is to be vigilant. Press suppliers for full disclosure, and provide the same for your customers to ensure their continued trust about the business in the future and to avoid legal action, from them or the government.
The Latest

It is believed the 24-karat heart-shaped enameled pendant was made for an event marking the betrothal of Princess Mary in 1518.

The AGTA Spectrum and Cutting Edge “Buyer’s Choice” award winners were announced at the Spectrum Awards Gala last week.

Launched in 2023, the program will help the passing of knowledge between generations and alleviate the shortage of bench jewelers.

The “Kering Generation Award x Jewelry” returns for its second year with “Second Chance, First Choice” as its theme.


Sourced by For Future Reference Vintage, the yellow gold ring has a round center stone surrounded by step-cut sapphires.

The clothing and accessories chain announced last month it would be closing all of its stores.

Criminals are using cell jammers to disable alarms, but new technology like JamAlert™ can stop them.

The “Zales x Sweethearts” collection features three mystery heart charms engraved with classic sayings seen on the Valentine’s Day candies.

The event will include panel discussions, hands-on demonstrations of new digital manufacturing tools, and a jewelry design contest.

Registration is now open for The Jewelry Symposium, set to take place in Detroit from May 16-19.

Namibia has formally signed the Luanda Accord, while two key industry organizations pledged to join the Natural Diamond Council.

Lady Gaga, Cardi B, and Karol G also went with diamond jewelry for Bad Bunny’s Super Bowl halftime show honoring Puerto Rico.

Jewelry is expected to be the No. 1 gift this year in terms of dollars spent.

As star brand Gucci continues to struggle, the luxury titan plans to announce a new roadmap to return to growth.

The new category asks entrants for “exceptional” interpretations of the supplier’s 2026 color of the year, which is “Signature Red.”

The White House issued an official statement on the deal, which will eliminate tariffs on loose natural diamonds and gemstones from India.

Entries for the jewelry design competition will be accepted through March 20.

The Ohio jeweler’s new layout features a curated collection of brand boutiques to promote storytelling and host in-store events.

From heart motifs to pink pearls, Valentine’s Day is filled with jewelry imbued with love.

Prosecutors say the man attended arts and craft fairs claiming he was a third-generation jeweler who was a member of the Pueblo tribe.

New CEO Berta de Pablos-Barbier shared her priorities for the Danish jewelry company this year as part of its fourth-quarter results.

Our Piece of the Week picks are these bespoke rings the “Wuthering Heights” stars have been spotted wearing during the film’s press tour.

The introduction of platinum plating will reduce its reliance on silver amid volatile price swings, said Pandora.

It would be the third impairment charge in three years on De Beers Group, which continues to grapple with a “challenging” diamond market.

The Omaha jewelry store’s multi-million-dollar renovation is scheduled to begin in mid-May and take about six months.

The “Paradise Amethyst” collection focuses on amethyst, pink tourmaline, garnet, and 18-karat yellow gold beads.
























