MajorsMay 16, 2025
Saks Fifth Avenue, Amazon Partner on Luxury Online StorefrontPlus, parent company Saks Global announces plans to cut ties with up to 600 vendors.
EditorsAug 06, 2014
A primer on lead glass-filled rubies
With all the recent consumer press reports accusing major chains of selling lead glass-filled rubies without proper disclosure, Associate Editor Brecken Branstrator takes a look at the rules for selling these stones.
While the prevalence of lead glass-filled rubies in the market and the issue of non-disclosure to consumers is far from new to the industry, it has been given new life in the consumer press in recent months.
The creation of these stones involves taking very low-quality, industrial-grade ruby and infusing it with glass that has a high lead content. Some stones are more ruby than glass while other are more glass than ruby.
In either case, the amount of glass in these stones is significant and they must be handled carefully because the glass can be damaged by a variety of standard practices. These stones are very unstable under normal conditions of wear and tear and can be damaged even by common household cleaners.
Though selling these types of rubies is legal, the Federal Trade Commission’s guides for jewelry requires disclosure at the point of sale when it comes to the treatment and care needed. According to its Guides for the Jewelry, Precious Metals, and Pewter Industries, “it is unfair or deceptive to use the unqualified [word] ‘ruby’… to describe any product that is not in fact a natural stone of the type described.”
This photo provided by American Gemological Laboratories shows a composite ruby that has been damaged during jewelry repair, which happens due to the high content of lead-glass in these stones.
The lack of disclosing results in not only a loss of consumer confidence in regard to rubies but for all jewelry in general, as well as opens up the retailer to the possibility of legal action. This is why it’s more important than ever for retailers to be aware of what’s expected of them.“If it has lead glass in it, it has to be disclosed that it’s treated and requires special care,” Jewelers Vigilance Committee’s Cecilia Gardner told me.
She added that when it comes to the term “natural,” she has had many gemologists tell her that after examining these kinds of rubies, they have found that there is so little natural material that labeling it as such would be inappropriate.
Different trade organizations have suggested different labels to use when it comes to describing these stones, though they have not yet reached a consensus, and the FTC currently is examining lead glass-filled rubies, especially when it comes to nomenclature and the disclosure process.
The JVC, along with a number of other trade organizations, submitted a brief to the FTC suggesting a number of revisions to its Guides so that there can be a standard throughout the industry.
They have taken the stand that the following vocabulary be used:
--That “natural” be used to refer to untreated rubies;
--That “treated” be used to identify a ruby that has been treated in a traditional methods, such as heating to modify color or healing open fissures by adding chemicals, and to which no significant weight is added;
--And that “imitation,” “manufactured,” “composite,” or “simulated” be used to describe the rubies that are low-grade, non-gem corundum and are infused or combined with lead glass to produce a stone that appears to be of higher quality, to which significant weight has been added.
When it comes down to it, the best way to avoid any issues is to be vigilant. Press suppliers for full disclosure, and provide the same for your customers to ensure their continued trust about the business in the future and to avoid legal action, from them or the government.
The JVC, along with a number of other trade organizations, submitted a brief to the FTC suggesting a number of revisions to its Guides so that there can be a standard throughout the industry.
They have taken the stand that the following vocabulary be used:
--That “natural” be used to refer to untreated rubies;
--That “treated” be used to identify a ruby that has been treated in a traditional methods, such as heating to modify color or healing open fissures by adding chemicals, and to which no significant weight is added;
--And that “imitation,” “manufactured,” “composite,” or “simulated” be used to describe the rubies that are low-grade, non-gem corundum and are infused or combined with lead glass to produce a stone that appears to be of higher quality, to which significant weight has been added.
When it comes down to it, the best way to avoid any issues is to be vigilant. Press suppliers for full disclosure, and provide the same for your customers to ensure their continued trust about the business in the future and to avoid legal action, from them or the government.
More on Editors
The Latest
Recorded WebinarsMay 16, 2025
Watch: Physical Retail Is Not DeadPeter Smith joined Michelle Graff to chat about the state of brick-and-mortar stores and share a few book and podcast recommendations.
CollectionsMay 16, 2025
Piece of the Week: Tejen’s ‘Candy Bowl’ Torque NecklaceThe necklace features a candy-colored Australian white opal in 18-karat Fairmined gold, as the brand was named a Fairmined ambassador.
Brought to you by
Las Vegas Antique Jewelry & Watch Show: Showcasing the Most Collectible Merchandise from Across the GlobeGain access to the most exclusive and coveted antique pieces from trusted dealers during Las Vegas Jewelry Week.
Supplier BulletinMay 15, 2025
Treasure Hunting at the Las Vegas Antique Jewelry and Watch ShowSponsored by the Las Vegas Antique Jewelry and Watch Show
Weekly QuizMay 15, 2025
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
AuctionsMay 15, 2025
'The Mediterranean Blue' Diamond Sells for $21M at Sotheby’sA private American collector purchased the 10-carat fancy vivid blue diamond.
CollectionsMay 15, 2025
Jessica McCormack’s ‘Fruit Salad’ Collection Is Fresh for SummerThe designer has taken the appeal of freshly picked fruit and channeled it into a capsule collection of earrings, necklaces, and pendants.
Brought to you by
Watch: The Winston Red: GIA Examines the Smithsonian’s Newest AdditionSupplier Spotlight Sponsored by GIA
SourcingMay 15, 2025
Tariffs Take Toll on India’s Gem and Jewelry Industry in April The country’s gem and jewelry exports fell 5 percent year-over-year last month, while imports declined 18 percent.
Policies & IssuesMay 15, 2025
State of Retail: How to Better Serve Customers With DisabilitiesAround 54 million Americans and counting live with a disability. Here’s how to make your jewelry store and website more accessible.
Events & AwardsMay 15, 2025
Poet Sekou Andrews to Give Closing Keynote at ConvergeThe event is also accepting poster submissions now through June 16.
Policies & IssuesMay 14, 2025
Here’s What Happened to Pope Francis’ RingBefore Pope Leo XIV was elected, a centuries-old procedure regarding the late pontiff’s ring was followed.
AuctionsMay 14, 2025
Custom Rolex Pulled From Sotheby’s SaleThe one-of-a-kind platinum Rolex Cosmograph Daytona was estimated to fetch up to $1.7 million.
Lab-GrownMay 14, 2025
State of Diamonds: What’s Next for Lab-Grown Diamonds?While the product has entrenched itself in the market, retailers and consultants are assessing the next phase of the category’s development.
CrimeMay 14, 2025
Seattle Detectives Seek Public’s Help in Tiffany & Co. Robberies The police are trying to identify the man suspected of robbing two Tiffany & Co. locations in the area.
MajorsMay 14, 2025
Jeff Corey Elected Chair of JBT Board The well-known Maine jeweler takes over for Brian Fleming and will serve a one-year term.
Policies & IssuesMay 14, 2025
Foundrae Donates $11K to Ethical MetalsmithsThe donation was the result of the brand’s annual Earth Day Ingot event.
IndependentsMay 13, 2025
Eiseman Jewels’ Renovated Dallas Store Is Bigger and BetterLocated in NorthPark Center, the revamped store is nearly 2,000 square feet larger and includes the first Tudor boutique in Dallas.
MajorsMay 13, 2025
DCA Announces New Learning Platform, Course UpdatesThe nonprofit has made updates to the content in its beginner and advanced jewelry sales courses.
MajorsMay 13, 2025
BIJC Launches New Education FundBIJC President Malyia McNaughton will shift roles to lead the new foundation, and Elyssa Jenkins-Pérez will succeed her as president.
TrendsMay 13, 2025
State of Jewelry Design: The Top 10 Jewelry Trends of the Past DecadeAs a nod to the theme of JCK Las Vegas 2025, “Decades,” National Jeweler took a look back at the top 10 jewelry trends of the past 10 years.
Lab-GrownMay 12, 2025
Lightbox to Go Dark by Summer, De Beers Says The company plans to halt all consumer-facing activity this summer, while Lightbox factory operations will cease by the end of the year.
Policies & IssuesMay 12, 2025
Tariffs on Chinese Imports Temporarily Slashed as U.S.-China Reach Deal Following weekend negotiations, the tax on Chinese goods imported into the United States will drop by 115 percent for the next 90 days.
Events & AwardsMay 12, 2025
Jewelry By Picasso, Dalí on Display at Florida Art Museum “Artists’ Jewelry: From Cubism to Pop, the Diane Venet Collection” is on view at the Norton Museum of Art through October.
Events & AwardsMay 12, 2025
CASE Awards Now Accepting Entries For 2025The deadline to submit is June 16.
IndependentsMay 09, 2025
Lugano Diamonds CEO Resigns Amid Internal InvestigationMoti Ferder stepped down Wednesday and will not receive any severance pay, parent company Compass Diversified said.
CollectionsMay 09, 2025
Pieces of the Week: Marie Lichtenberg’s Collaborations for Mother’s DayLichtenberg partnered with luxury platform Mytheresa on two designs honoring the connection between mothers and daughters.
