Editors

Is ‘ethical’ worth the extra money?

EditorsApr 09, 2012

Is ‘ethical’ worth the extra money?

Last Wednesday, I attended a panel discussion on “ethical” diamonds organized by the Women’s Jewelry Association and held here in New York. Inevitably, the discussion, moderated by jewelry industry writer and editor Peggy Jo Donahue, came around to the question...

Last Wednesday, I attended a panel discussion on “ethical” diamonds organized by the Women’s Jewelry Association and held here in New York.


Inevitably, the discussion, moderated by jewelry industry writer and editor Peggy Jo Donahue, came around to the question of money: How much are people willing to pay for a diamond that lays claims to being responsibly mined?

It’s not unlike the questions Americans face in a myriad of other shopping situations.

You’re at the grocery store and the free-range, organic eggs, presumably produced by chickens with a (somewhat) better life than their factory-farmed counterparts, are lined up alongside regular, non-organic options. The organic eggs are double or even triple the price of the non-organic variety. Are you willing to pay more? Which will you choose? 

Two of the panelists, Rebecca Foerster, the U.S. vice president of Rio Tinto Diamonds, and Forevermark U.S. Inc. President Charles Stanley, said their companies charge a premium for their products because they believe there are people who are willing to pay for the assurance of owning an ethically sourced diamond.

Stanley noted that there will come a “tipping point” when the origin of products will become an issue across the board.

But Andrea Hansen, CEO of Ivanka Trump Fine Jewelry, said from their viewpoint, the consumer hasn’t reached that point yet. Rather than attach a premium to their ethically sourced merchandise, the company takes a lower margin. “I don’t see on the retail level yet that the consumer is willing to pay that much more for the product,” she said.

As one of those people who definitely goes for the organic food in the grocery store, I’m all for knowing where my food, clothing, etc. comes from and knowing that the people on the producing end were treated fairly.

But I am a single woman living in New York City with no one to support but myself. Might I feel differently if I had four other mouths to feed or lived in a part of the country where there was less emphasis on origin?

During the discussion, the subject of how to distinguish ethically sourced inventory while not disparaging other stock arose. Foerster said what Rio Tinto tells retailers is to call their diamonds “Canadian” or “Australian,” not label them as “non-conflict.”

“It’s never setting it up as bad inventory vs. good inventory,” she said, comparing it to (as I have above)

organic and non-organic in a supermarket. There are some shoppers who go straight to the organic selections while others, for whatever reasons, stick with less expensive, non-organic items.

Nobody’s insulted or running out of the store because the grocer carries both.

The fourth panel member, Susan Posnock, Jewelers of America’s associate director of public affairs, seconded this idea, noting that there are some consumers who still buy regular coffee even though fair-trade coffee has been readily available for years.

“It’s just about giving consumers choices,” she said.

Retailers, what’s the situation in your store and in your community as a whole? Do you have enough customers who care about where their diamond comes from to make carrying more expensive, but ethically sourced, diamonds worthwhile? 
Michelle Graffis the editor-in-chief at National Jeweler, directing the publication’s coverage both online and in print.

The Latest

Eiseman Jewels ribbon cutting ceremony
IndependentsMay 13, 2025
Eiseman Jewels’ Renovated Dallas Store Is Bigger and Better

Located in NorthPark Center, the revamped store is nearly 2,000 square feet larger and includes the first Tudor boutique in Dallas.

Diamond Council of America
MajorsMay 13, 2025
DCA Announces New Learning Platform, Course Updates

The nonprofit has made updates to the content in its beginner and advanced jewelry sales courses.

Malyia McNaughton and Elyssa Jenkins-Pérez
MajorsMay 13, 2025
BIJC Launches New Education Fund

BIJC President Malyia McNaughton will shift roles to lead the new foundation, and Elyssa Jenkins-Pérez will succeed her as president.

antique_Vegas_2024_by_headshot_stories_9454.jpg
Brought to you by
Las Vegas Antique Jewelry & Watch Show: Showcasing the Most Collectible Merchandise from Across the Globe

Gain access to the most exclusive and coveted antique pieces from trusted dealers during Las Vegas Jewelry Week.

Harwell Godfrey Snake Giza Ring, Foundrae Mind, Body Soul Story Necklace, Tiffany & Co. Tiffany Titan By Pharrell Williams Bracelet
TrendsMay 13, 2025
State of Jewelry Design: The Top 10 Jewelry Trends of the Past Decade

As a nod to the theme of JCK Las Vegas 2025, “Decades,” National Jeweler took a look back at the top 10 jewelry trends of the past 10 years.

Weekly QuizMay 08, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Lightbox’s Reminiscence Poet earrings in 14-karat white gold with lab-grown diamonds
Lab-GrownMay 12, 2025
Lightbox to Go Dark by Summer, De Beers Says

The company plans to halt all consumer-facing activity this summer, while Lightbox factory operations will cease by the end of the year.

Stock image of shipping containers
Policies & IssuesMay 12, 2025
Tariffs on Chinese Imports Temporarily Slashed as U.S.-China Reach Deal

Following weekend negotiations, the tax on Chinese goods imported into the United States will drop by 115 percent for the next 90 days.

Supplier Spotlight -Recorded-Webinar.png
Brought to you by
Watch: The Winston Red: GIA Examines the Smithsonian’s Newest Addition

Supplier Spotlight Sponsored by GIA

Artists’ Jewelry: From Cubism to Pop, the Diane Venet Collection
Events & AwardsMay 12, 2025
Jewelry By Picasso, Dalí on Display at Florida Art Museum

“Artists’ Jewelry: From Cubism to Pop, the Diane Venet Collection” is on view at the Norton Museum of Art through October.

2025 CASE Award Submission Graphic
Events & AwardsMay 12, 2025
CASE Awards Now Accepting Entries For 2025

The deadline to submit is June 16.

Lugano Diamonds store in Greenwich, Connecticut
IndependentsMay 09, 2025
Lugano Diamonds CEO Resigns Amid Internal Investigation

Moti Ferder stepped down Wednesday and will not receive any severance pay, parent company Compass Diversified said.

Coeur Percé Scapular Necklace and Love Baby Locket
CollectionsMay 09, 2025
Pieces of the Week: Marie Lichtenberg’s Collaborations for Mother’s Day

Lichtenberg partnered with luxury platform Mytheresa on two designs honoring the connection between mothers and daughters.

Gemfields emeralds
SourcingMay 09, 2025
Gemfields Resumes Emerald Mining in Zambia

The miner announced plans to recommence open-pit mining at Kagem.

Stock image of a man’s hands in handcuffs
CrimeMay 08, 2025
Former NYC Jewelry Store Employee Arrested in 2017 Choking Death of Boss

Michel Desalles allegedly murdered Omid Gholian inside World of Gold N Diamond using zip ties and then fled the country.

instappraise-1.png
Supplier BulletinMay 08, 2025
Instappraise Introduces Game-Changing Trifold Appraisal Format

Sponsored by Instappraise

Brilliant Earth three stone Sabine diamond engagement ring
FinancialsMay 08, 2025
Brilliant Earth Notes an Uptick in Engagement Ring Sales in Q1

CEO Beth Gerstein discussed the company’s bridal bestsellers, the potential impact of tariffs, and the rising price of gold.

Exterior of Margot McKinney Beverly Hills Location
IndependentsMay 08, 2025
Margot McKinney Lands in the U.S. With New Boutique

The brand’s first independent location outside of Australia has opened in Beverly Hills, California.

Cathy Marsh
IndependentsMay 08, 2025
Verragio Announces New Regional Sales Manager

Cathy Marsh will lead the jewelry company’s efforts in the upper Midwest and western United States.

Pandora gold and silver charm bracelet
FinancialsMay 07, 2025
Pandora Posts Strong Q1, Plans for Tariffs

The company has multiple strategies for dealing with tariffs, though its CEO said moving manufacturing to the U.S. is not one of them.

Headshot of Smart Age Solutions CEO Emmanuel Raheb
ColumnistsMay 07, 2025
The Smart Lab: Building a Seasonal Marketing Strategy for Mother’s Day and Beyond

Connecting with your customers throughout the year is key to a successful holiday marketing push.

Gemfields rough emeralds
SourcingMay 07, 2025
Gemfields Says Emerald Sales Improved in Latest Auction

Its commercial-quality emerald sale held last month totaled more than $16 million, up from about $11 million in September 2024.

Logo for “In the Loupe,” Punchmark’s podcast
TechnologyMay 07, 2025
Punchmark’s Latest Podcast Features a Very Special Guest

National Jeweler Editor-in-Chief Michelle Graff joined Michael Burpoe to talk tariffs, consumer confidence, and the sky-high price of gold.

Harwell Godfrey Met Gala brooch with Mediterranean Blue diamond
AuctionsMay 06, 2025
Harwell Godfrey Reimagines 10-Carat Blue Diamond for Met Gala-Ready Brooch

Designer Lauren Harwell Godfrey made the piece as an homage to the 2025 gala’s theme, “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style.”

Jewelers of America 20 Under 40 for 2025
Events & AwardsMay 06, 2025
Here’s Who Made Jewelers of America’s New ‘20 Under 40’ List

Expanded this year to include suppliers, JA’s 2025 list honors 40 up-and-coming professionals in the jewelry industry.

Sissys Log Cabin Fort Smith Arkansas
IndependentsMay 06, 2025
Sissy's Log Cabin Opens New Store

Located in Fort Smith, it’s the Mid-South jeweler’s first store in Northwest Arkansas.

Gunderson’s Jewelers
IndependentsMay 06, 2025
Gunderson’s Jewelers to Be Featured on ‘World’s Greatest’ TV Series

The episode about the family-owned jeweler will premiere May 17.

Zadok Jewelers Austin store
IndependentsMay 05, 2025
Zadok Jewelers Opens Store in Austin

The Houston-based jeweler’s new 11,000-square-foot showroom will include a Rolex boutique.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy