Editors

Is ‘ethical’ worth the extra money?

EditorsApr 09, 2012

Is ‘ethical’ worth the extra money?

Last Wednesday, I attended a panel discussion on “ethical” diamonds organized by the Women’s Jewelry Association and held here in New York. Inevitably, the discussion, moderated by jewelry industry writer and editor Peggy Jo Donahue, came around to the question...

Last Wednesday, I attended a panel discussion on “ethical” diamonds organized by the Women’s Jewelry Association and held here in New York.


Inevitably, the discussion, moderated by jewelry industry writer and editor Peggy Jo Donahue, came around to the question of money: How much are people willing to pay for a diamond that lays claims to being responsibly mined?

It’s not unlike the questions Americans face in a myriad of other shopping situations.

You’re at the grocery store and the free-range, organic eggs, presumably produced by chickens with a (somewhat) better life than their factory-farmed counterparts, are lined up alongside regular, non-organic options. The organic eggs are double or even triple the price of the non-organic variety. Are you willing to pay more? Which will you choose? 

Two of the panelists, Rebecca Foerster, the U.S. vice president of Rio Tinto Diamonds, and Forevermark U.S. Inc. President Charles Stanley, said their companies charge a premium for their products because they believe there are people who are willing to pay for the assurance of owning an ethically sourced diamond.

Stanley noted that there will come a “tipping point” when the origin of products will become an issue across the board.

But Andrea Hansen, CEO of Ivanka Trump Fine Jewelry, said from their viewpoint, the consumer hasn’t reached that point yet. Rather than attach a premium to their ethically sourced merchandise, the company takes a lower margin. “I don’t see on the retail level yet that the consumer is willing to pay that much more for the product,” she said.

As one of those people who definitely goes for the organic food in the grocery store, I’m all for knowing where my food, clothing, etc. comes from and knowing that the people on the producing end were treated fairly.

But I am a single woman living in New York City with no one to support but myself. Might I feel differently if I had four other mouths to feed or lived in a part of the country where there was less emphasis on origin?

During the discussion, the subject of how to distinguish ethically sourced inventory while not disparaging other stock arose. Foerster said what Rio Tinto tells retailers is to call their diamonds “Canadian” or “Australian,” not label them as “non-conflict.”

“It’s never setting it up as bad inventory vs. good inventory,” she said, comparing it to (as I have above)

organic and non-organic in a supermarket. There are some shoppers who go straight to the organic selections while others, for whatever reasons, stick with less expensive, non-organic items.

Nobody’s insulted or running out of the store because the grocer carries both.

The fourth panel member, Susan Posnock, Jewelers of America’s associate director of public affairs, seconded this idea, noting that there are some consumers who still buy regular coffee even though fair-trade coffee has been readily available for years.

“It’s just about giving consumers choices,” she said.

Retailers, what’s the situation in your store and in your community as a whole? Do you have enough customers who care about where their diamond comes from to make carrying more expensive, but ethically sourced, diamonds worthwhile? 
Michelle Graffis the editor-in-chief at National Jeweler, directing the publication’s coverage both online and in print.

The Latest

Cristiano Ronaldo and Stephanie Gottlieb Ring
TrendsAug 13, 2025
Cristiano Ronaldo Proposes With Gigantic Oval-Cut Diamond

Model Georgina Rodríguez received a rock of an engagement ring, with her diamond estimated to be 35 carats, experts say.

International Colored Gemstone Association logo
SourcingAug 13, 2025
ICA Names 2025 Board of Directors

The board elected 9 new directors at its recent ICA Congress in Brazil.

Whiskey Barrel Ring
TrendsAug 13, 2025
Colorado Jeweler, Whiskey Maker Collab on Ring Giveaway

Three winners will receive a custom ring from Honest Hands Ring Co. inlaid with a piece of history from Denver-based distillery Stranahan’s.

rio-article photo-diamond.jpg
Brought to you by
Taking the Moment Head On: How Rio Grande Champions the Present & Future of Fine Jewelry

As a leading global jewelry supplier, Rio Grande is rapidly expanding and developing new solutions to meet the needs of jewelers worldwide.

People shopping in a mall
SurveysAug 13, 2025
These Are The 25 Hottest Retailers, Says NRF

JD Sports and Wawa were among the fastest-growing retail companies in the U.S. last year.

Weekly QuizAug 08, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Columbia Gem House Winza sapphires and rubies
SourcingAug 13, 2025
Columbia Gem House Launches Winza Sapphires, Rubies

The new inventory, all untreated, features vibrant hues and unique bicolor combinations.

Gemfields Faberge
SourcingAug 12, 2025
Gemfields Sells Fabergé for $50M

Acquired by a tech investor, the historic brand will continue to focus on jewelry, accessories, and timepieces.

an instructor and a student in a bench jewelry classroom
Brought to you by
Investing in the Next Generation of Bench Jewelers

The Seymour & Evelyn Holtzman Bench Scholarship from Jewelers of America returns for a second year.

Shipping containers on a ship
Policies & IssuesAug 12, 2025
Higher Tariff on Chinese Imports Paused for 90 Days, Trump Says

President Donald Trump issued an executive order extending the pause on higher tariffs to November as negotiations with China continue.

Jacquie Aiche Thunderbird Slab Collection Campaign
CollectionsAug 12, 2025
Jacquie Aiche’s New Collection Harnesses the Energy of the Thunderbird

The “Thunderbird Slab” collection features a thunderbird motif as a symbol of power, protection, and boundless possibility.

Duvall O’Steen and Jen Cullen Williams
ColumnistsAug 12, 2025
Creative Connecting: How to Take a Better Headshot

Columnists Jen Cullen Williams and Duvall O’Steen share tips on how to elevate your professional image.

Vigil for slain Wheat Ridge, Colorado jeweler Peter Damian Arguello
CrimeAug 11, 2025
Man Convicted of First-Degree Murder in Death of Colorado Jeweler

Peter Damian Arguello, a jeweler in the Denver suburb of Wheat Ridge, was found dead inside his store in November 2023.

Lisa Bridge
IndependentsAug 11, 2025
Lisa Bridge to Depart Ben Bridge Jeweler

The retailer, owned by Berkshire Hathaway, is becoming part of the Berkshire Hathaway Jewelry Group with Helzberg.

Bethenny Frankel
Events & AwardsAug 11, 2025
Bethenny Frankel to Give Keynote at CBG’s Experience Show

The Continental Buying Group’s 2025 Tampa Experience Show is slated for Sept. 8-10.

Brilliant Earth Jolie Mosaics engagement ring
FinancialsAug 08, 2025
Brilliant Earth’s Q2 Sales Up 3% as Engagement Ring Sales Rise

The company raised its full-year sales guidance while noting it has not yet assessed the potential impact of the latest tariff news.

Jewellers for Hope charity event
Events & AwardsAug 08, 2025
GJEPC’s Jewellers for Hope Celebrates 10 Years of Fundraising

The organization has raised more than $1.3 million for charity since its inception.

Rahaminov Diamonds Emerald-Cut Diamond Bezel Bangle
TrendsAug 08, 2025
Piece of the Week: Rahaminov Diamonds’ Bezel Bangle

The brand’s latest iteration of a bezel-set diamond bangle features clean lines and a timeless design for a new modern silhouette.

Black and white photo of Tony Bennett near a microphone
WatchesAug 07, 2025
Bulova’s New Collection Honors Tony Bennett

The first watch in the series commemorates his participation in the Civil Rights movement, marching from Selma to Montgomery in 1965.

Sapphire page in Chatham’s “Ultimate Lab-Grown Catalog”
Lab-GrownAug 07, 2025
Chatham Releases Catalog for Loose Lab-Grown Gemstones

The catalog contains a complete listing of all the loose gemstones in stock, as well as information about the properties of each stone.

Rembrandt Blue Jay, Hummingbird, Cardinal Bird Charms
TechnologyAug 07, 2025
Rembrandt Charms Debuts New Website, Bird Charms

The company added a retailer dashboard to its site and three new birds to its charm collection, the cardinal, blue jay, and hummingbird.

Shipping containers on a ship
Policies & IssuesAug 06, 2025
Tariff on India to Rise to 50%, Trump Says

An additional 25 percent tariff has been added to the previously announced 25 percent.

Claire’s storefront
MajorsAug 06, 2025
Claire’s Files for Chapter 11 Bankruptcy Again

The jewelry and accessories retailer plans to close 18 stores as part of the proceedings.

Smith & Son Jewelers storefront Springfield Massachusetts
IndependentsAug 06, 2025
Smith & Son Jewelers to Close 107-Year-Old Location

Its Springfield, Massachusetts, store is set to close as owner Andrew Smith heads into retirement.

Zahn-Z Beluga Spout Grey Spinel Ring and Beluga Spout Mandarin Garnet Ring
CollectionsAug 06, 2025
Zahn-Z Swims With Whales in ‘Beluga’ Collection

Designer Hiba Husayni looked to the whale’s melon shaped-head, blowhole, and fluke for her new chunky gold offerings.

Paola De Luca presenting Trendbook 2026+ at Vicenzaoro
TrendsAug 06, 2025
Paola De Luca to Release Trendbook 2027+

She will present the 23rd edition of the trend forecasting book at Vicenzaoro on Sept. 7.

Omar Roy mugshot
CrimeAug 05, 2025
Report: Suspect Arrested in 1992 Murder of Miami Jeweler

Omar Roy, 72, was arrested in connection with the murder of jeweler Dionisio Carlos Valladares.

Mignon Faget Beyond Katrina Pendant and Beyond Katrina Pin
CollectionsAug 05, 2025
Mignon Faget Commemorates 20th Anniversary of Hurricane Katrina

The New Orleans-based brand’s “Beyond Katrina” jewels honor the communities affected by the storm.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy