AuctionsMar 20, 2024
Vintage Baume & Mercier Gifted by Elvis Going Up for AuctionAuctionsApr 15, 2024
All of Sotheby’s ‘Rough Diamonds’ Sold in Less Than an Hour
The auction house said all 24 timepieces offered in its underground sale of rare and avant-garde watches quickly found buyers.
Jacqueline Dimier, Audemars Piguet’s head of product design for more than two decades, designed this emerald-set car watch in 1985. The timepiece, which Sotheby’s said is probably a one-of-a-kind, sold for almost $120,000 at the “Rough Diamonds” auction.
Geneva—Sotheby’s “Rough Diamonds” did not have a hard time finding buyers last week in Geneva, with all 24 lots selling in less than an hour, the auction house said.
Rough Diamonds is what Sotheby’s dubbed its sale of unusual and avant-garde watches that it organized in partnership with creative collective heist-out.
The auction, featuring watches mainly from the ‘70s, ‘80s, and ‘90s, was billed as a “gender-free” concept watch sale and took place underground, literally.
After three days of public exhibition, the watches were auctioned off Thursday evening in the subterranean wine cellar at Geneva event space La Corne à Vin.
All told, Rough Diamonds garnered 1.13 million Swiss francs ($1.3 million), with 15 of the 24 lots topping their highest pre-sale estimates.
“‘Rough Diamonds’ was born from the desire to bring to market a concept watch sale that truly resonated with collectors,” Josh Pullan, global head of Sotheby’s luxury division, said. “The results of tonight’s sale, with all 24 lots selling to such a diverse and enthusiastic group of buyers, has validated that vision, which we shared with heist-out, our passionate creative partners in this new project.
“The fact that the Gilbert Albert-designed Patek Philippe—the most idiosyncratic and extravagant lot in the sale—has become the most valuable lot sold tonight proves there is a definite appetite amongst buyers for non-conformist and boldly eccentric timepieces presented in a differentiated context.”
Related stories will be right here …
Rough Diamonds is what Sotheby’s dubbed its sale of unusual and avant-garde watches that it organized in partnership with creative collective heist-out.
The auction, featuring watches mainly from the ‘70s, ‘80s, and ‘90s, was billed as a “gender-free” concept watch sale and took place underground, literally.
After three days of public exhibition, the watches were auctioned off Thursday evening in the subterranean wine cellar at Geneva event space La Corne à Vin.
All told, Rough Diamonds garnered 1.13 million Swiss francs ($1.3 million), with 15 of the 24 lots topping their highest pre-sale estimates.
“‘Rough Diamonds’ was born from the desire to bring to market a concept watch sale that truly resonated with collectors,” Josh Pullan, global head of Sotheby’s luxury division, said. “The results of tonight’s sale, with all 24 lots selling to such a diverse and enthusiastic group of buyers, has validated that vision, which we shared with heist-out, our passionate creative partners in this new project.
“The fact that the Gilbert Albert-designed Patek Philippe—the most idiosyncratic and extravagant lot in the sale—has become the most valuable lot sold tonight proves there is a definite appetite amongst buyers for non-conformist and boldly eccentric timepieces presented in a differentiated context.”
Though the timepieces were unusual, the brand of watch that landed the spot as the sale’s top lot was not.
A bidder paid CHF 393,700 ($435,727) for a bracelet watch, ring, and necklace Swiss jeweler Gilbert Albert designed for Patek Philippe in 1962, nearly eight times its highest pre-sale estimate of CHF 50,000 ($55,253).
Gilbert Albert designed this Patek Philippe suite in the 1960s. A buyer paid more than $400,000 for it at Thursday’s “Rough Diamonds” auction.
The watch, ring and necklace are 18-karat yellow gold set with enamel and pearls.
The second highest-grossing diamond in the rough was Audemars Piguet’s “Cobra Royal Khanjar” from 1985, so named because of its snake-like bracelet.
The 18-karat white gold Audemars Piguet “Cobra Royal Khanjar” topped its highest pre-sale estimate, selling for more than $180,000.
The sleek white gold watch topped its highest pre-sale estimate of CHF 100,000, selling for CHF 165,100 ($182,724).
Rounding out the auction’s top three was another Audemars Piguet, this one designed in 1985 by Jacqueline Dimier, the brand’s head of product design from 1975 to 1999.
The watch (pictured at top of article) is in the shape of a green car, with the emerald- and diamond-set automobile flipping open to reveal a tiny mother-of-pearl watch face.
It sold for CHF 107,950 ($119,474), topping its highest pre-sale estimate of CHF 80,000 ($88,382).
To see the full results of the Rough Diamonds sale, visit the Sotheby’s website.
More on Auctions
The Latest
FinancialsDec 02, 2025
Signet Jewelers’ Q3 Sales Up Amid Continued Focus on Lower Price PointsThe retailer offered more fashion jewelry priced under $1,000, including lab-grown diamond and men’s jewelry.
CollectionsDec 02, 2025
Briony Raymond Introduces First FragranceThe eau de parfum is held in a fluted glass bottle that mirrors the decor of the brand’s atelier, and its cap is a nod to its “Sloan” ring.
SourcingDec 02, 2025
Petra Diamonds Elevates Interim CEOs to Permanent StatusVivek Gadodia and Juan Kemp, who’ve been serving as interim co-CEOs since February, will continue to lead the diamond mining company.
Brought to you by
Impacting Tomorrow TodayHow Jewelers of America’s 20 Under 40 are leading to ensure a brighter future for the jewelry industry.
MajorsDec 02, 2025
Lee Krombholz Takes Over as Chair of MJSA Education FoundationIn addition, a slate of new officers and trustees were appointed to the board.
Weekly QuizNov 20, 2025
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
IndependentsDec 02, 2025
RJO Welcomes Its 1,200th Retail MemberWitt’s Jewelry in Wayne, Nebraska, is the organization’s new milestone member.
SourcingDec 02, 2025
Brendan Laurs Honored With 2025 Bonanno AwardLaurs is the editor-in-chief of Gem-A’s The Journal of Gemmology and an expert on the formation of colored gemstone deposits.
Brought to you by
Roseco Releases New Full-Line CatalogRoseco’s 704-page catalog showcases new lab-grown diamonds, findings, tools & more—available in print or interactive digital editions.
CrimeDec 01, 2025
Fourth Man Charged in Louvre Jewelry HeistThe man, who has a criminal history, is suspected of being the fourth member of the four-man crew that carried out the heist.
IndependentsDec 01, 2025
Lustig Jewelers’ New Owner Is a Fellow Chicago JewelerMichael Helfer has taken the reins, bringing together two historic Chicago jewelry names.
MajorsDec 01, 2025
PGI Debuts Platinum-Filled Holiday Gift GuideThe guide features all-new platinum designs for the holiday season by brands like Harwell Godfrey, Ritani, and Suna.
FinancialsNov 26, 2025
Movado CEO Talks Tariffs, Growing Interest in Accessible Luxury WatchesDuring its Q3 call, CEO Efraim Grinberg discussed the deal to lower tariffs on Swiss-made watches, watch market trends, and more.
TrendsNov 26, 2025
Piece of the Week: Rosior’s Pumpkin RingRosior’s high jewelry cocktail ring with orange sapphires and green diamonds is the perfect Thanksgiving accessory.
IndependentsNov 26, 2025
Greenwich St. Jewelers Launches Colorful Holiday CampaignThe “Embrace Your True Colors” campaign features jewels with a vibrant color palette and poetry by Grammy-nominated artist Aja Monet.
MajorsNov 26, 2025
Serafino Consoli Names New VP of Sales, Brand Development for the AmericasLuxury veteran Alejandro Cuellar has stepped into the role at the Italian fine jewelry brand.
Events & AwardsNov 26, 2025
Grandview Klein Presents 4 Scholarships in NamibiaThe company gave awards to four students at the Namibia University of Science & Technology, including one who is a Grandview Klein employee.
IndependentsNov 25, 2025
Pearl Stringer Margaret Hoisik DiesShe is remembered as an artist who loved her craft and was devoted to her faith, her friends, and her family.
SourcingNov 25, 2025
Finestar Opens Diamond Manufacturing Facility in JohannesburgIt joins the company’s other manufacturing facilities globally, including in India, Botswana, and Namibia.
TrendsNov 25, 2025
Amanda’s Style File: Polka DotsThe polka dot pattern transcends time and has re-emerged as a trend in jewelry through round-shaped gemstones.
CrimeNov 25, 2025
Former Arizona AG Official Charged With Trafficking Stolen JewelryVanessa Hickman, 49, allegedly sold a diamond bracelet that was mistakenly sent to her home.
Events & AwardsNov 25, 2025
GIA Awards Susan Jacques With Its Highest HonorGIA’s former president and CEO was presented with the Richard T. Liddicoat Award for Distinguished Achievement.
Recorded WebinarsNov 24, 2025
Watch: Top Tips for Social Media EtiquetteSocial media experts spoke about protecting brand reputation through behaving mindfully online.
WatchesNov 24, 2025
Breitling Reveals Plans for Gallet, Universal GenèveIn 2026, the three will come together as “House of Brands,” with Gallet sold in Breitling stores and Universal Genève sold separately.
CollectionsNov 24, 2025
Muse Debuts a Wicked 'Have a Heart x Cynthia Erivo' SequelThe second drop, which includes more Elphaba-inspired pieces from additional designers, will continue to benefit nonprofit Dreams of Hope.
IndependentsNov 24, 2025
J.R. Dunn Jewelers Names New PresidentSecond-generation jeweler Sean Dunn has taken on the role.
MajorsNov 21, 2025
Natural Diamond Council Names New CEOAmber Pepper’s main focus will be on digital innovation and engaging younger consumers.
SourcingNov 21, 2025
De Beers’ Branded, Traceable Diamonds Roll Out to 19 Retailers Called “Origin by De Beers Group,” the loose, polished diamonds are being sold in a total of 30 stores in the United States and Canada.
