All of Sotheby’s ‘Rough Diamonds’ Sold in Less Than an Hour
The auction house said all 24 timepieces offered in its underground sale of rare and avant-garde watches quickly found buyers.

Rough Diamonds is what Sotheby’s dubbed its sale of unusual and avant-garde watches that it organized in partnership with creative collective heist-out.
The auction, featuring watches mainly from the ‘70s, ‘80s, and ‘90s, was billed as a “gender-free” concept watch sale and took place underground, literally.
After three days of public exhibition, the watches were auctioned off Thursday evening in the subterranean wine cellar at Geneva event space La Corne à Vin.
All told, Rough Diamonds garnered 1.13 million Swiss francs ($1.3 million), with 15 of the 24 lots topping their highest pre-sale estimates.
“‘Rough Diamonds’ was born from the desire to bring to market a concept watch sale that truly resonated with collectors,” Josh Pullan, global head of Sotheby’s luxury division, said. “The results of tonight’s sale, with all 24 lots selling to such a diverse and enthusiastic group of buyers, has validated that vision, which we shared with heist-out, our passionate creative partners in this new project.
“The fact that the Gilbert Albert-designed Patek Philippe—the most idiosyncratic and extravagant lot in the sale—has become the most valuable lot sold tonight proves there is a definite appetite amongst buyers for non-conformist and boldly eccentric timepieces presented in a differentiated context.”
Though the timepieces were unusual, the brand of watch that landed the spot as the sale’s top lot was not.
A bidder paid CHF 393,700 ($435,727) for a bracelet watch, ring, and necklace Swiss jeweler Gilbert Albert designed for Patek Philippe in 1962, nearly eight times its highest pre-sale estimate of CHF 50,000 ($55,253).
The watch, ring and necklace are 18-karat yellow gold set with enamel and pearls.
The second highest-grossing diamond in the rough was Audemars Piguet’s “Cobra Royal Khanjar” from 1985, so named because of its snake-like bracelet.
The sleek white gold watch topped its highest pre-sale estimate of CHF 100,000, selling for CHF 165,100 ($182,724).
Rounding out the auction’s top three was another Audemars Piguet, this one designed in 1985 by Jacqueline Dimier, the brand’s head of product design from 1975 to 1999.
The watch (pictured at top of article) is in the shape of a green car, with the emerald- and diamond-set automobile flipping open to reveal a tiny mother-of-pearl watch face.
It sold for CHF 107,950 ($119,474), topping its highest pre-sale estimate of CHF 80,000 ($88,382).
To see the full results of the Rough Diamonds sale, visit the Sotheby’s website.
The Latest

“The Golden Now” campaign celebrates the here and now with the brand’s signature styles and a selection of its new pieces.

Signet confirmed that Caffie, president of Zales and Banter, and Bentzen, who headed Blue Nile, have left the company.

The antique jewelry dealer talks about the importance of including Black Americans in jewelry history and preserving their stories.

You deserve to know what you are selling–to protect your customers as well as your business and your reputation.

Both its mines faced challenges last year, from operational issues to disruptions in the market.


Iconic pieces, like the Mike Todd Diamond Tiara, appear in the superstar’s new music video for her song inspired by the actress.

The luxury retailer, which went Chapter 11 in January, announced Thursday that it has secured $500 million in exit financing.

Every jeweler faces the same challenge: helping customers protect what they love. Here’s the solution designed for today’s jewelry business.

The NouvelleBox ballroom will feature independent jewelry designers, including Lene Vibe, Wyld Box Jewelry, and Kiaia Limited.

The one-of-a-kind locket, our Piece of the Week, opens to reveal three hidden images to keep close to your heart.

The new facility was also designed to better serve its growing customer base in Canada.

The campaign is a tribute to the year 1893, when Kokichi Mikimoto created the world’s first cultured pearl.

It is the only GIA school to offer the GIA Graduate Gemologist program in Chinese.

The initiative connects veterans and parents returning to the workforce with careers in jewelry retail.

The wholesale manufacturer and precious metals refiner has appointed Michael Angelo as its new national sales representative.

Foundrae also accused the jewelry giant of copying its mood board style of marketing.

The Conference Board’s Consumer Confidence Index edged up, with optimism about the present outweighing worries about the future.

The retailer’s Zach Bear gift comes to life in “Zach Bear and the Window Necklace,” which centers on curiosity, bravery, and helping.

Applications are open for the AGA Gemological Scholarship Program through May 15, and until June 2027 for the Gemological Research Grant.

These customer behavior patterns say a lot about how successful your jewelry store is going to be this year, Emmanuel Raheb writes.

Mejuri’s popular collection of 18-karat yellow gold vermeil rings debuted in sterling silver alongside new “Puzzle” slider charms.

The Miami-based jewelry brand and the NYC-based artist will be in Dallas from April 9-11.

The initiative invites those in the industry to share stories on social media highlighting the meaning and impact of natural diamonds.

Wolk’s first day on the job as CEO of Tracr, De Beers Group’s blockchain platform, will be May 1.

Moses, who will leave the lab in May after nearly 50 years, discusses his start in the business, gemstones that stand out, and what’s next.

The new catalog, which showcases 35 one-of-a-kind pieces of jewelry, is a compliment to the company’s popular holiday catalog.

Production has ceased at the Canadian diamond mine, which has yielded more than 150 million carats of rough diamonds in its 23-year run.






















