All of Sotheby’s ‘Rough Diamonds’ Sold in Less Than an Hour
The auction house said all 24 timepieces offered in its underground sale of rare and avant-garde watches quickly found buyers.

Rough Diamonds is what Sotheby’s dubbed its sale of unusual and avant-garde watches that it organized in partnership with creative collective heist-out.
The auction, featuring watches mainly from the ‘70s, ‘80s, and ‘90s, was billed as a “gender-free” concept watch sale and took place underground, literally.
After three days of public exhibition, the watches were auctioned off Thursday evening in the subterranean wine cellar at Geneva event space La Corne à Vin.
All told, Rough Diamonds garnered 1.13 million Swiss francs ($1.3 million), with 15 of the 24 lots topping their highest pre-sale estimates.
“‘Rough Diamonds’ was born from the desire to bring to market a concept watch sale that truly resonated with collectors,” Josh Pullan, global head of Sotheby’s luxury division, said. “The results of tonight’s sale, with all 24 lots selling to such a diverse and enthusiastic group of buyers, has validated that vision, which we shared with heist-out, our passionate creative partners in this new project.
“The fact that the Gilbert Albert-designed Patek Philippe—the most idiosyncratic and extravagant lot in the sale—has become the most valuable lot sold tonight proves there is a definite appetite amongst buyers for non-conformist and boldly eccentric timepieces presented in a differentiated context.”
Though the timepieces were unusual, the brand of watch that landed the spot as the sale’s top lot was not.
A bidder paid CHF 393,700 ($435,727) for a bracelet watch, ring, and necklace Swiss jeweler Gilbert Albert designed for Patek Philippe in 1962, nearly eight times its highest pre-sale estimate of CHF 50,000 ($55,253).
The watch, ring and necklace are 18-karat yellow gold set with enamel and pearls.
The second highest-grossing diamond in the rough was Audemars Piguet’s “Cobra Royal Khanjar” from 1985, so named because of its snake-like bracelet.
The sleek white gold watch topped its highest pre-sale estimate of CHF 100,000, selling for CHF 165,100 ($182,724).
Rounding out the auction’s top three was another Audemars Piguet, this one designed in 1985 by Jacqueline Dimier, the brand’s head of product design from 1975 to 1999.
The watch (pictured at top of article) is in the shape of a green car, with the emerald- and diamond-set automobile flipping open to reveal a tiny mother-of-pearl watch face.
It sold for CHF 107,950 ($119,474), topping its highest pre-sale estimate of CHF 80,000 ($88,382).
To see the full results of the Rough Diamonds sale, visit the Sotheby’s website.
The Latest

Two suspects have been arrested in connection with the complex phone scam.

In her first column for National Jeweler, Jennifer Shaheen asks jewelers if they know how to connect with the next generation of consumers.

The annual awards cover tuition for an on-site educational course at the Swiss lab, as well as flights and lodging.

Submit your pieces for a chance to win in this year's competition.

The jeweler partnered with the Tennessee resort to honor its 50th anniversary with limited-edition blackberry pendants and earrings.


The third-generation jeweler shared how the North Carolina retailer is celebrating this milestone and the love story that started it all.

The class, led by renowned metalsmith Cynthia Eid, highlighted Argentium silver as an alternative to gold amid high prices.

Retailers are seeking new ways to attract customers, increase traffic, and create revenue – Estate buying events are a popular solution.

The show is slated for Oct. 16-19 at the Miami Beach Convention Center.

The “Empresses” capsule uses 19th-century medals depicting Napoleon, Joséphine, and Marie-Louise across five one-of-a-kind pieces.

The retailers at the top of the list offer affordable products and fun, discovery-fueled experiences.

Daniel Bing was formerly the marketing director for the Americas at Vacheron Constantin.

In our Piece of the Week, the designers reimagine the tennis bracelet with green enamel wrapped around a strand of “Desert Diamonds.”

The industry veterans join the podcast to discuss diamond marketing, the FTC Jewelry Guides, and lobbying for lower tariffs.

Founder Vik Westermann said the app is a “starting point” to inspire people to work with appraisers and gem labs, not replace them.

The five students were awarded a total of $10,000 through the nonprofit’s 2026 “Future of Jewelry Making” scholarship.

Steven Lerche is now beginning his term as the youngest member to become president of The Plumb Club’s elected executive committee.

Murphy will retire at the end of the year and Alexander, currently the company’s president, will take over at the start of 2027.

The jeweler is encouraging customers who own lookalike rings to come into the store and trade them for credit towards an authentic piece.

The new campaign, “You Are The Occasion,” discourages shoppers from saving their fine jewelry for special occasions only.

Mehta led India’s GJEPC through the 2008 financial crisis and was respected worldwide for his wisdom, integrity, and knowledge.

One is the driver who allegedly crashed a car into a Sacramento jewelry store in April, striking a 71-year-old employee who later died.

In a new column, Peter Smith posits that people actually enjoy putting together IKEA furniture, and the same is true for engagement rings.

9lakha Jewelers in Iselin, New Jersey, was the target of a smash-and-grab robbery on Aug. 8.

The jeweler has partnered with 818 Tequila to gift lab-grown diamond studs to a bride-to-be and their bridal party.

The exhibition will feature more than 100 drawings of stained-glass lampshades, windows, and more, many created by women and émigrés.

Marquise-cut diamonds in drop charms are the center of the new collection, reflecting the movement of a dancer in modular styles.

























