Auctions

All of Sotheby’s ‘Rough Diamonds’ Sold in Less Than an Hour

AuctionsApr 15, 2024

All of Sotheby’s ‘Rough Diamonds’ Sold in Less Than an Hour

The auction house said all 24 timepieces offered in its underground sale of rare and avant-garde watches quickly found buyers.

Audemars Piguet circa 1985 emerald car watch
Jacqueline Dimier, Audemars Piguet’s head of product design for more than two decades, designed this emerald-set car watch in 1985. The timepiece, which Sotheby’s said is probably a one-of-a-kind, sold for almost $120,000 at the “Rough Diamonds” auction.
Geneva—Sotheby’s “Rough Diamonds” did not have a hard time finding buyers last week in Geneva, with all 24 lots selling in less than an hour, the auction house said. 

Rough Diamonds is what Sotheby’s dubbed its sale of unusual and avant-garde watches that it organized in partnership with creative collective heist-out.   

The auction, featuring watches mainly from the ‘70s, ‘80s, and ‘90s, was billed as a “gender-free” concept watch sale and took place underground, literally.  

After three days of public exhibition, the watches were auctioned off Thursday evening in the subterranean wine cellar at Geneva event space La Corne à Vin.   

All told, Rough Diamonds garnered 1.13 million Swiss francs ($1.3 million), with 15 of the 24 lots topping their highest pre-sale estimates.  

“‘Rough Diamonds’ was born from the desire to bring to market a concept watch sale that truly resonated with collectors,” Josh Pullan, global head of Sotheby’s luxury division, said. “The results of tonight’s sale, with all 24 lots selling to such a diverse and enthusiastic group of buyers, has validated that vision, which we shared with heist-out, our passionate creative partners in this new project.  

“The fact that the Gilbert Albert-designed Patek Philippe—the most idiosyncratic and extravagant lot in the sale—has become the most valuable lot sold tonight proves there is a definite appetite amongst buyers for non-conformist and boldly eccentric timepieces presented in a differentiated context.” 

 Related stories will be right here … 

Though the timepieces were unusual, the brand of watch that landed the spot as the sale’s top lot was not. 

A bidder paid CHF 393,700 ($435,727) for a bracelet watch, ring, and necklace Swiss jeweler Gilbert Albert designed for Patek Philippe in 1962, nearly eight times its highest pre-sale estimate of CHF 50,000 ($55,253). 

Patek Philippe Gilbert Albert suite
Gilbert Albert designed this Patek Philippe suite in the 1960s. A buyer paid more than $400,000 for it at Thursday’s “Rough Diamonds” auction.


The watch, ring and necklace are 18-karat yellow gold set with enamel and pearls. 

The second highest-grossing diamond in the rough was Audemars Piguet’s “Cobra Royal Khanjar” from 1985, so named because of its snake-like bracelet. 

Audemars Piguet Cobra Royal Khanjar
The 18-karat white gold Audemars Piguet “Cobra Royal Khanjar” topped its highest pre-sale estimate, selling for more than $180,000.

 
The sleek white gold watch topped its highest pre-sale estimate of CHF 100,000, selling for CHF 165,100 ($182,724).  

Rounding out the auction’s top three was another Audemars Piguet, this one designed in 1985 by Jacqueline Dimier, the brand’s head of product design from 1975 to 1999.  

The watch (pictured at top of article) is in the shape of a green car, with the emerald- and diamond-set automobile flipping open to reveal a tiny mother-of-pearl watch face.  


It sold for CHF 107,950 ($119,474), topping its highest pre-sale estimate of CHF 80,000 ($88,382).

To see the full results of the Rough Diamonds sale, visit the Sotheby’s website

The Latest

Rolex Perpetual 1908 watch with 18-karat yellow gold bracelet
Policies & IssuesNov 14, 2025
U.S., Switzerland Reach Deal That Drops Tariff to 15%

The Swiss government announced the deal, which cuts the tax on Swiss imports by more than half, on social media Friday morning.

Buccellati Étoilée earrings
FinancialsNov 14, 2025
Richemont’s Q2 Jewelry Sales Up 12%

Plus, how tariffs and the rising price of gold are affecting its watch and jewelry brands.

Silvia Furmanovich x Mellerio Butterflies in Flight Jewelry Box
CollectionsNov 14, 2025
Piece of the Week: Silvia Furmanovich’s ‘Butterflies in Flight’ Jewelry Box

Furmanovich designed the box to hold Mellerio’s “Color Queen,” a high jewelry collection consisting of 10 rings.

roseco-catalog.png
Brought to you by
Roseco Releases New Full-Line Catalog

Roseco’s 704-page catalog showcases new lab-grown diamonds, findings, tools & more—available in print or interactive digital editions.

JCK Las Vegas trade show
Events & AwardsNov 14, 2025
JCK Names New Event Director

Jennifer Hopf, who has been with JCK since 2022, will lead the execution of the long-running jewelry trade show.

Weekly QuizNov 13, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Adler’s Jewelry storefronts New Orleans
IndependentsNov 13, 2025
127-Year-Old New Orleans Jeweler to Close

Adler’s Jewelry is set to close its two stores as 82-year-old owner Coleman E. Adler II retires.

Green Lake Jewelry Works Seattle interior
IndependentsNov 13, 2025
Green Lake Jewelry Works to Move to New Seattle Studio

Founder Jim Tuttle shared how a dedication to craftsmanship and meaningful custom jewelry fueled the retailer’s double-digit growth.

20-Under-40-2025-LV.png
Brought to you by
Jewelers of America Aligns New Mission to Create Meaningful Impact for Members

From educational programs, advocacy, and recent MJSA affiliation, Jewelers of America drives progress that elevates businesses of all sizes.

Leon V. Der Calousdian
MajorsNov 13, 2025
Vahan Jewelry Founder Leon ‘Sacha’ Der Calousdian Dies at 85

The third-generation jeweler is remembered as a passionate creative with a love of art, traveling and sailboat racing.

Father-son jewelers Faustino Alamo Dominguez and Luis Angel Alamo
CrimeNov 12, 2025
Father, Son Jewelers in Chicago Victims in Double Homicide

JSA and Cook County Crime Stoppers are both offering rewards for information leading to the arrest of the suspect or suspects involved.

Mercedes Gleitze Companion Oyster
AuctionsNov 12, 2025
Historic Rolex Oyster Fetches $1.7M at Sotheby’s

Mercedes Gleitze famously wore the watch in her 1927 swim across the English Channel, a pivotal credibility moment for the watchmaker.

Gemological Institute of America logo
GradingNov 12, 2025
It’s Time: GIA’s Express Holiday Service Is Back

GIA is offering next-day services for natural, colorless diamonds submitted to its labs in New York and Carlsbad.

Tiffany & Co. Love Is a Gift Campaign and David Yurman The Joy of Extraordinary Memories campaign
MajorsNov 10, 2025
Jewelers Focus on Love, Joy In 2025 Holiday Campaigns

Tiffany & Co., David Yurman, and Pandora have launched holiday campaigns depicting their jewelry as symbols of affection and happiness.

Hand holding holiday shopping bags
SurveysNov 10, 2025
5 Things Retailers Should Know About Holiday Shoppers This Year

The National Retail Federation is bullish on the holidays, forecasting retail sales to exceed $1 trillion this year.

The Rainbow Collection Christies
AuctionsNov 10, 2025
300+ Colored Diamonds Up for Auction at Christie’s

Late collector Eddy Elzas assembled “The Rainbow Collection,” which is offered as a single lot and estimated to fetch up to $3 million.

 Sapphire tennis necklace
EditorsNov 07, 2025
Piece of the Week: An MVP’s Sapphire Tennis Necklace

At the 2025 World Series, the Los Angeles Dodgers’ Yoshinobu Yamamoto sported a custom necklace made by California retailer Happy Jewelers.

Foundrae Palm Beach Location Exterior and Founder Beth Hutchens
IndependentsNov 07, 2025
Foundrae’s New Palm Beach Location Is a ‘Golden Solarium’

The brand’s seventh location combines Foundrae’s symbolic vocabulary with motifs from Florida’s natural surroundings.

Watches of Switzerland Mall of America store
FinancialsNov 07, 2025
Watches of Switzerland’s H1 Sales Up 8%

The retailer also shared an update on the impact of tariffs on watch customers.

AGTA Spectrum winners
SourcingNov 06, 2025
Pink Tourmaline Bracelet, Emerald Suite Take Top Spectrum Honors

Pink and purple stones were popular in the AGTA’s design competition this year, as were cameos and ocean themes.

G. St x Jewel Boxing Raffle for City Harvest Graphic
IndependentsNov 06, 2025
Greenwich St. Jewelers Hosts Raffle Supporting Food Rescue

All proceeds from the G. St x Jewel Boxing raffle will go to City Harvest, which works to end hunger in New York City.

Courtney Cornell
IndependentsNov 06, 2025
Cornell’s Jewelers Names New President

Courtney Cornell is part of the third generation to lead the Rochester, New York-based jeweler.

Trucks at Orapa diamond mine
SourcingNov 06, 2025
De Beers’ Production, Sales Increase in Q3

De Beers also announced more changes in its upper ranks ahead of parent company Anglo American’s pending sale of the company.

Ulrich Wohn
WatchesNov 05, 2025
Shinola President Steps Down Just as He Starts

Former Signet CEO Mark Light will remain president of Shinola until a replacement for Ulrich Wohn is found.

Artifex White Diamond, Fancy Dark Yellowish Brown Diamond, and Blue Sapphire Rings
AuctionsNov 05, 2025
Taylor Swift’s Engagement Ring Designer Makes Her Auction Debut

Kindred Lubeck of Artifex has three rings she designed with Anup Jogani in Sotheby’s upcoming Gem Drop sale.

Tyla Pandora Talisman collection
FinancialsNov 05, 2025
Pandora Posts Modest Q3 Sales Growth Amid ‘Weak’ Consumer Sentiment

The company focused on marketing in the third quarter and introduced two new charm collections, “Pandora Talisman” and “Pandora Minis.”

Brilliant Earth Jane Goodall Peace Medallion
FinancialsNov 05, 2025
Brilliant Earth’s Q3 Sales Climb 10%

The jewelry retailer raised its full-year guidance, with CFO Jeff Kuo describing the company as “very well positioned” for the holidays.

US Supreme Court
Policies & IssuesNov 04, 2025
Supreme Court to Hear Tariffs Case Wednesday

Ahead of the hearing, two industry organizations co-signed an amicus brief urging the court to declare Trump’s tariffs unlawful.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy