Majors

Celebrated Jewelry Designer Henry Dunay Dies at 88

MajorsNov 13, 2023

Celebrated Jewelry Designer Henry Dunay Dies at 88

His wake is set for Wednesday, while the funeral will take place Thursday in Brooklyn, New York.

Henry Dunay with the “Lachrymosa” diamond mask
Jewelry designer Henry Dunay with one of his most notable creations, the “Lachrymosa” diamond mask. The innovative, award-winning designer died Friday at age 88.
New York—Henry Paul Dunay, the award-winning jewelry designer known for his bold, creative designs, died in his sleep Friday at a hospital in Brooklyn, New York.

He was 88.

His wife, Frinette Dunay, shared news of his passing over the weekend, prompting an outpouring of support and admiration from retailers, designers, and other industry professionals.

Jim Rosenheim, CEO of Tiny Jewel Box in Washington, D.C., wrote on Facebook, “Henry was a giant within the jewelry industry and a warm and welcoming man. I was proud to be his friend and will miss him greatly. As a jewelry designer, he was one of the few genuine geniuses that I have ever known. RIP old friend.”

Fellow designer Paula Crevoshay said Dunay taught her so much.

“He was generous and so helpful in every way in my first year of creating one-of-a-kind jewels,” she wrote on Facebook. “May he RIP.”

Born Henry Loniewski on May 1, 1935, in Jersey City, New Jersey, Henry was the second of three sons born to Polish immigrants Henry and Helen Loniewski.

His family did not have a lot of money, so Henry worked odd jobs from a young age, including delivering newspapers and shining shoes at local bars.

At 14, the opportunity arose for Henry to commute into Manhattan to work for jeweler Rudolph Cacioli on Canal Street in the Bowery, then the center of the New York City jewelry trade.

He started as an errand boy and worked his way up to becoming a master model-maker and diamond setter, skills that set the stage for a remarkable career.

At 18, he changed his last name to Dunay, his mother’s maiden name, because it was shorter and, he believed, easier to remember.

“He knew he was going to be an artist,” Frinette told National Jeweler on Saturday. “He was very creative.” 

Henry started his own company in 1956 at age 21, initially taking on projects from other companies including Harry Winston, but it wasn’t long before his original designs started getting attention.

In the late ‘60s, Henry won a De Beers Diamonds International Award, an honor that, according to his obituary, marked a turning point in the then-young designer’s career.

He would go on to win three more De Beers awards over the years, as well as numerous others, including AGTA Spectrum Awards, the Johnson Matthey Platinum Design Award, and multiple awards from Robb Report magazine. 

Henry was known for his innovative designs, as well as for the “Sabi” finish, a groundbreaking technique he introduced that was inspired by the Japanese wabi-sabi aesthetic.

He also branched out over the years as his brand grew, developing a fragrance, also called Sabi, and building out an impressive roster of private clients.

His work was spotted on numerous celebrities and politicians in the 1990s, including Hillary Clinton, Drew Barrymore and the actress considered to be the greatest jewelry lover of all time, Elizabeth Taylor.

Among his most photographed designs was the “Lachrymosa” diamond mask, reportedly set with more than 130 carats of diamonds at its creation.

In a 2011 interview with National Jeweler conducted shortly after Taylor’s death, Dunay recalled how he was asked to design the mask for a function benefitting the American Foundation for AIDS Research (amfAR).

It took him eight months to make the mask and Taylor, the founding national and international chair of amfAR, wore it in a 1993 photo shoot designed to generate publicity for the event.

A book about his life, “Henry Dunay: A Precious Life,” was published in 2007. Jewelry historians and authors Penny Proddow and Marion Fasel wrote the biographical essay for the book.

While Dunay enjoyed decades of success as a jewelry designer, he was hit hard by the Great Recession in the early aughts. He filed for bankruptcy in June 2009.

Frinette recalled how she encouraged Henry to break up his pieces so he could pay his bills around this time, but he refused.

“Each piece of his jewelry was his baby,” she explained. “He always believed he was going to [get] back into business, but he didn’t believe he was going to lose his name.”

Get back into his business he did, launching HDD Inc. in February 2010, though he was restricted from using the name “Henry Dunay” following the bankruptcy.

Henry and Frinette Dunay
The late Henry Dunay with his wife, Frinette Dunay, in New York City

“When we speak of one of the absolute, all-time greats, and best jewelry designers in our industry, Henry Dunay comes up as legend,” longtime jewelry marketer Sande Finkel wrote on Facebook. 

“[I remember] working alongside of him on many occasions back in the ‘90s at Bergdorf Goodman. He was always a true gentleman and artist, humble and warm. Henry will be missed but always remembered. This is no doubt the end of an era for our industry.”

Henry is survived by his wife, Frinette Dunay; two biological children, Valerie Dunay Corvin and Paul Dunay; three stepchildren, Sharon Bella Simon, Frinette Susan Lupo, and Robert Valenzuela; and numerous grandchildren, step-grandchildren, and great-grandchildren. 

His wake is scheduled for Wednesday from 4-9 p.m. at Andrew Torregrossa Funeral Home on 79th Street in Brooklyn. 

The funeral mass will take place Thursday beginning at 9:45 a.m. at St. Athanasius Church on 61st Street in Brooklyn, with burial to follow at Resurrection Cemetery in Piscataway, New Jersey.

Michelle Graffis the editor-in-chief at National Jeweler, directing the publication’s coverage both online and in print.

The Latest

Stafford’s Diamonds closing ad
IndependentsMar 14, 2025
Stafford’s Diamonds in Ohio to Close After 40 Years

The Dayton-based jeweler, which has been in business since 1985, was formerly known as Stafford Jewelers.

Alan Zimmer
Events & AwardsMar 14, 2025
JVC Reveals Recipient of Stanley Schechter Award

Reeds Jewelers CEO Alan Zimmer will be presented with the honor at JVC’s annual luncheon.

Sorellina’s Aries Zodiac Pendant
CollectionsMar 14, 2025
Piece of the Week: Sorellina’s Aries Zodiac Pendant

The piece, celebrating birthdays from March 21 to April 19, debuted with Sorellina’s new line of astrological pendants.

Supplier Spotlight -Recorded-Webinar.png
Brought to you by
Watch: GIA Field Gemology at the One-Hundredth Expedition: A Look Back and to the Future

Supplier Spotlight Sponsored by GIA

Woman wearing Brilliant Earth jewelry
FinancialsMar 13, 2025
Brilliant Earth’s 2024 Sales Struggled Amid Engagement Recovery

CEO Beth Gerstein shared its most popular price points, what’s trending in non-bridal fine jewelry, and its holiday performance.

Weekly QuizMar 14, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Chopard Insofu emerald collection
CollectionsMar 13, 2025
Chopard Unveils High Jewelry Collection Created From 6,225-Carat Emerald

The 15 pieces were crafted from the “Insofu” emerald, discovered in Zambia in 2010.

Jewelers of America’s new natural and lab-grown diamond brochure
Lab-GrownMar 13, 2025
JA Offering Some ‘Counter Intelligence’ on Diamonds

Jewelers of America is distributing a brochure for retailers to use when discussing the differences between natural and lab-grown diamonds.

Facets-of-Fire-Difference-You-Can-See.jpg
Brought to you by
Natural Diamonds Should Mean More

Natural diamonds mean more than lab-grown, but when every cut is ideal, they all look the same. Customers want more—Facets of Fire delivers.

A rough diamond and a polished diamond
SourcingMar 12, 2025
5 Factors That Will Impact the Diamond Industry in 2025

The industry is changing as it grapples with new realities around distribution, supply, and the need for consistent, effective marketing.

New Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council Chairman Kirit Bhansali
SourcingMar 12, 2025
Q&A: New GJEPC Chairman Kirit Bhansali

Bhansali discusses the potential impact of U.S. tariffs, demand for diamonds by market, and the “cautious confidence” in India right now.

Limelight Lab Grown Diamond store in India
Lab-GrownMar 12, 2025
Beyond Jewelry: Possibilities in the Lab-Grown Diamond Sector

As lab-grown diamond brands pop up across India, academics are researching how to grow demand outside of the jewelry industry.

Diamonds Do Good honoree Govind Dholakia at medical camp
SourcingMar 12, 2025
Indian Leader, Retailer Among 2025 DDG Honorees

Govind Dholakia and Tanishq will be recognized for their contributions to the industry at the Diamonds Do Good Awards in Las Vegas.

Marla Aaron Liberty London Shop-in-Shop
IndependentsMar 12, 2025
Marla Aaron Migrates to London

The New York City-based brand has opened its first U.K. location with a permanent shop-in-shop at Liberty in London.

Medieval sapphire bishop ring
AuctionsMar 12, 2025
A Medieval Bishop’s Sapphire Ring Is Going Up for Sale

A metal detectorist discovered the ring that is believed to have belonged to a bishop in the late 12th to early 13th century.

JA New York sign
Events & AwardsMar 12, 2025
JA New York Announces Education, Live Demo Lineups

Organizers looked to new partnerships and interactive experiences to enhance the spring show, set for March 16 to 18.

Jewelers Vigilance Committee annual luncheon 2025 logo
Events & AwardsMar 12, 2025
Bogolo Joy Kenewendo to Speak at Annual JVC Luncheon

Kenewendo, Botswana’s minister of minerals and energy, will discuss the future of diamonds.

Jaythan Lawrence Gilder and body scan
CrimeMar 11, 2025
Man in Florida Swallows Allegedly Stolen Tiffany & Co. Jewelry

The suspect allegedly stole almost $800,000 worth of diamond jewelry from a store in Orlando and then swallowed it during a traffic stop.

Duvall O’Steen and Jen Cullen Williams
ColumnistsMar 11, 2025
Creative Connecting: How to Pose on the Red Carpet

Ahead of the Gem Awards on Friday, Jen Cullen Williams and Duvall O’Steen share pro tips for taking the best photos.

Marco Bicego 25 Years Campaign Isabeli Fontana
CollectionsMar 11, 2025
Marco Bicego Celebrates 25 Years With Collection, Campaign

Founded in 2000, Marco Bicego is commemorating its milestone anniversary with a “25 Best” collection and campaigns honoring its heritage.

Hill & Co The List
TechnologyMar 11, 2025
Hill & Co. Launches New B2B Buyer Database

Those attending the company’s upcoming Zoom workshop will receive early access to “The List,” its new resource for finding buyers.

Amy-Elise Signeavsky GIA
Events & AwardsMar 11, 2025
JSA to Honor GIA Employee at Annual Luncheon

The organization will present an award to Amy-Elise Signeavsky, law enforcement and diamond recovery manager at GIA.

Picture of Terry Chandler, president and CEO of the Diamond Council of America
MajorsMar 10, 2025
Terry Chandler to Retire After 24 Years as Head of DCA

Chandler started his jewelry career at Michelson Jewelers, joining the Diamond Council of America as president and CEO in 2001.

MaeVona King of the Mountains Torc
CollectionsMar 10, 2025
MaeVona Co-Founder Debuts 3D-Printed ‘Tùsaire’ Collection

Scottish American designer Maeve Gillies collaborated with Platinum Guild International on jewelry created by direct metal 3D printing.

The Jewelry Symposium 2025 Scholarship Winners
Events & AwardsMar 10, 2025
The Jewelry Symposium Announces 2025 Scholarship Winners

Ahead of its trade show in May, TJS awarded free registration and accommodations to five up-and-coming jewelry industry professionals.

Gem Awards New York City
Events & AwardsMar 10, 2025
These Designers, Journalists, and Retailers Are Up for a Gem Award

The 2025 Gem Awards are set to take place Friday at Cipriani 42nd Street in New York City.

Jane Fonda, America Ferrera, Mariska Hargitay, Laura Harrier, Mattia Furlani, Gianvito Martino, Sabina Belli in Pomellato International Women’s Day campaign
MajorsMar 07, 2025
Jane Fonda, Mariska Hargitay Star in Pomellato’s IWD Campaign

The annual star-studded campaign for International Women’s Day encourages collective action against domestic violence.

Yeprem Golden Strada Statement Necklace
CollectionsMar 07, 2025
Piece of the Week: Yeprem’s ‘Golden Strada’ Necklace

The statement piece is seen in Yeprem’s new “You Play the Game” campaign, created for International Women’s Day.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy