Majors

Celebrated Jewelry Designer Henry Dunay Dies at 88

MajorsNov 13, 2023

Celebrated Jewelry Designer Henry Dunay Dies at 88

His wake is set for Wednesday, while the funeral will take place Thursday in Brooklyn, New York.

Henry Dunay with the “Lachrymosa” diamond mask
Jewelry designer Henry Dunay with one of his most notable creations, the “Lachrymosa” diamond mask. The innovative, award-winning designer died Friday at age 88.
New York—Henry Paul Dunay, the award-winning jewelry designer known for his bold, creative designs, died in his sleep Friday at a hospital in Brooklyn, New York.

He was 88.

His wife, Frinette Dunay, shared news of his passing over the weekend, prompting an outpouring of support and admiration from retailers, designers, and other industry professionals.

Jim Rosenheim, CEO of Tiny Jewel Box in Washington, D.C., wrote on Facebook, “Henry was a giant within the jewelry industry and a warm and welcoming man. I was proud to be his friend and will miss him greatly. As a jewelry designer, he was one of the few genuine geniuses that I have ever known. RIP old friend.”

Fellow designer Paula Crevoshay said Dunay taught her so much.

“He was generous and so helpful in every way in my first year of creating one-of-a-kind jewels,” she wrote on Facebook. “May he RIP.”

Born Henry Loniewski on May 1, 1935, in Jersey City, New Jersey, Henry was the second of three sons born to Polish immigrants Henry and Helen Loniewski.

His family did not have a lot of money, so Henry worked odd jobs from a young age, including delivering newspapers and shining shoes at local bars.

At 14, the opportunity arose for Henry to commute into Manhattan to work for jeweler Rudolph Cacioli on Canal Street in the Bowery, then the center of the New York City jewelry trade.

He started as an errand boy and worked his way up to becoming a master model-maker and diamond setter, skills that set the stage for a remarkable career.

At 18, he changed his last name to Dunay, his mother’s maiden name, because it was shorter and, he believed, easier to remember.

“He knew he was going to be an artist,” Frinette told National Jeweler on Saturday. “He was very creative.” 

Henry started his own company in 1956 at age 21, initially taking on projects from other companies including Harry Winston, but it wasn’t long before his original designs started getting attention.

In the late ‘60s, Henry won a De Beers Diamonds International Award, an honor that, according to his obituary, marked a turning point in the then-young designer’s career.

He would go on to win three more De Beers awards over the years, as well as numerous others, including AGTA Spectrum Awards, the Johnson Matthey Platinum Design Award, and multiple awards from Robb Report magazine. 

Henry was known for his innovative designs, as well as for the “Sabi” finish, a groundbreaking technique he introduced that was inspired by the Japanese wabi-sabi aesthetic.

He also branched out over the years as his brand grew, developing a fragrance, also called Sabi, and building out an impressive roster of private clients.

His work was spotted on numerous celebrities and politicians in the 1990s, including Hillary Clinton, Drew Barrymore and the actress considered to be the greatest jewelry lover of all time, Elizabeth Taylor.

Among his most photographed designs was the “Lachrymosa” diamond mask, reportedly set with more than 130 carats of diamonds at its creation.

In a 2011 interview with National Jeweler conducted shortly after Taylor’s death, Dunay recalled how he was asked to design the mask for a function benefitting the American Foundation for AIDS Research (amfAR).

It took him eight months to make the mask and Taylor, the founding national and international chair of amfAR, wore it in a 1993 photo shoot designed to generate publicity for the event.

A book about his life, “Henry Dunay: A Precious Life,” was published in 2007. Jewelry historians and authors Penny Proddow and Marion Fasel wrote the biographical essay for the book.

While Dunay enjoyed decades of success as a jewelry designer, he was hit hard by the Great Recession in the early aughts. He filed for bankruptcy in June 2009.

Frinette recalled how she encouraged Henry to break up his pieces so he could pay his bills around this time, but he refused.

“Each piece of his jewelry was his baby,” she explained. “He always believed he was going to [get] back into business, but he didn’t believe he was going to lose his name.”

Get back into his business he did, launching HDD Inc. in February 2010, though he was restricted from using the name “Henry Dunay” following the bankruptcy.

Henry and Frinette Dunay
The late Henry Dunay with his wife, Frinette Dunay, in New York City

“When we speak of one of the absolute, all-time greats, and best jewelry designers in our industry, Henry Dunay comes up as legend,” longtime jewelry marketer Sande Finkel wrote on Facebook. 

“[I remember] working alongside of him on many occasions back in the ‘90s at Bergdorf Goodman. He was always a true gentleman and artist, humble and warm. Henry will be missed but always remembered. This is no doubt the end of an era for our industry.”

Henry is survived by his wife, Frinette Dunay; two biological children, Valerie Dunay Corvin and Paul Dunay; three stepchildren, Sharon Bella Simon, Frinette Susan Lupo, and Robert Valenzuela; and numerous grandchildren, step-grandchildren, and great-grandchildren. 

His wake is scheduled for Wednesday from 4-9 p.m. at Andrew Torregrossa Funeral Home on 79th Street in Brooklyn. 

The funeral mass will take place Thursday beginning at 9:45 a.m. at St. Athanasius Church on 61st Street in Brooklyn, with burial to follow at Resurrection Cemetery in Piscataway, New Jersey.

Michelle Graffis the editor-in-chief at National Jeweler, directing the publication’s coverage both online and in print.

The Latest

2025 National Jeweler Retailer Hall of Fame inductees
Events & AwardsJun 06, 2025
Here Are the 2025 Retailer Hall of Fame Inductees

This year’s honorees include a Midwest retailer and two multi-store independents, one in New York and the other in New England.

Harwell Godfrey Granny Square Eleanor Necklace
CollectionsJun 06, 2025
Piece of the Week: Harwell Godfrey’s ‘Granny Squares Eleanor’ Necklace

As an homage to iconic crochet blankets, the necklace features the nostalgic motif through a kaleidoscope of cabochon-cut stones.

 Laura Gallon Joaillerie “Dynasty” ring, Bijules “Compass” bolo tie, Löf “The Orbitalis” ring
Events & AwardsJun 05, 2025
The 12 Fresh Faces in Couture’s Design Atelier

Discover the dozen up-and-coming brands exhibiting in the Design Atelier for the first time.

DCA-student-cert-NJ1872x1052-2.png
Brought to you by
The True Power Behind the Counter: Why Sales Associates Are the Heart of the Jewelry Business

When investing in your jewelry business, it's important not to overlook the most crucial element of success: the sales associates.

Jack Abraham The Royal Ruby Collection
SourcingJun 05, 2025
A Rare Suite of Rubies Has Arrived in Las Vegas

The “Royal Ruby” Collection is a quintet of untreated rubies curated by collector Jack Abraham.

Weekly QuizJun 05, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Daymond John
Events & AwardsJun 05, 2025
Daymond John to Give Keynote at JCK Las Vegas

The entrepreneur and “Shark Tank” star will share his top tips for success.

Meredith Tiderington
Events & AwardsJun 05, 2025
Zillion Announces 'Women in STEM' Scholarship Recipient

Meredith Tiderington, an electrical engineering student, was selected for the award.

Article Image 1.png
Brought to you by
Clienteling Isn’t a Buzzword. It’s an Essential Business Model.

More shoppers are walking out without buying. Here’s how smart jewelers can bring them back—and the tool they need to do it right.

The Gemological Institute of America’s logo
Lab-GrownJun 04, 2025
GIA Reverting to More General Terminology for Lab-Grown Diamonds

It will quit assigning the stones specific color and clarity grades in favor of applying “new descriptive terminology.”

Exterior of the Venetian and the Las Vegas Sphere
Events & AwardsJun 04, 2025
As JCK Talks Returns, Don’t Miss These 12 Sessions

From design trends to sustainability, here’s a roundup of can’t-miss education sessions at JCK Las Vegas.

JCK show
CrimeJun 04, 2025
10 Safety Tips for the Las Vegas Shows

The Jewelers’ Security Alliance offers advice for those attending the annual trade shows.

The eight rings in Viviana Langhoff’s AU79 jewelry collection
CollectionsJun 03, 2025
In Her Latest Collection, Viviana Langhoff Is Leaning Into Gold

The designer is embracing bold pieces with weight to them in “AU79,” a collection she celebrated with a creative launch party.

Gold and diamond bangles on a pair of jeans
FinancialsJun 03, 2025
Signet Jewelers Sees Turnaround in Q1 With Sales Ticking Up 2%

On an earnings call, CEO J.K. Symancyk discussed what’s working for the company and how it’s preparing for the potential impact of tariffs.

Woman’s hand holding shopping bags
SurveysJun 03, 2025
Consumer Confidence Improves in May

The index partially rebounded after months of decline, due in part to the U.S.-China deal to temporarily reduce import tariffs.

Dakota Johnson as Roberto Coin Brand Ambassador
CollectionsJun 03, 2025
Dakota Johnson Is Roberto Coin’s New Brand Ambassador

The actress stars in the latest campaign set in Venice, Italy, and is set to participate in other creative initiatives for the jeweler.

Mason Kay Jade necklace
GradingJun 03, 2025
Mason-Kay Jade Adds ‘Fei Cui’ to Jade Reports

The company has joined other labs, including GIA and Lotus Gemology, in adopting the Chinese term for "jadeite jade."

Gemfields ruby
SourcingJun 02, 2025
Gemfields’ June Auction to Include 36-Carat Ruby

The large stone will be offered at its June sale along with a selection of secondary-type rubies from a new area of the Montepuez mine.

Adobe Stock image of skyline of Bangkok, Thailand
GradingJun 02, 2025
GSI Opens New Lab in Thailand

Located in Bangkok, the laboratory is Gemological Science International’s 14th location worldwide.

Seaman Schepps pearl earrings
TrendsJun 02, 2025
Amanda’s Style File: Three Gems for June

Those born in June have a myriad of options for their birthstone jewelry.

David Allouche
SourcingJun 02, 2025
David Allouche Joins Grandview Klein Diamonds

The diamond industry veteran has been named its senior sales executive.

Movado Connect 2.0 watches
FinancialsMay 30, 2025
Movado’s Q1 Sales Slip Amid ‘Challenging’ Retail Environment

The company plans to raise the prices of select watches to offset the impact of tariffs.

Zoë Chicco Bracelets
Policies & IssuesMay 30, 2025
Tariffs & Designers: Navigating Pricing in an Unstable Environment

Between tariffs and the sky-high cost of gold, designers enter this year’s Las Vegas shows with a lot of questions and few answers.

Renato Cipullo Hematite Blaze Necklace
CollectionsMay 30, 2025
Piece of the Week: Renato Cipullo’s ‘Hematite Blaze’ Necklace

Designed by founder Renato and his daughter Serena Cipullo, it showcases a flame motif representing unity and the power of gathering.

Stock image of shipping containers
Policies & IssuesMay 30, 2025
Trade Court Declares Trump’s Tariffs Invalid

However, the tariffs remain in effect in the short term, as an appeals court has stayed the U.S. Court of International Trade’s decision.

Britney Spears
CollectionsMay 29, 2025
Britney Spears Files Trademark for New Jewelry Line

The pop icon is one step closer to launching her “B Tiny” jewelry collection, a collection she first began posting about last fall.

Inoveo Platinum Grain image.jpg
Supplier BulletinMay 29, 2025
Inoveo Platinum Grain, Exclusively Distributed by Stuller

Sponsored by Stuller

Grizzly Mining Pilala emerald
SourcingMay 29, 2025
Grizzly Auctions 6,620-Carat Emerald

It was featured in the miner’s latest sale, which brought in $24.8 million.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy