Editors

The Gemstone World Is In Its Unique Cut Era

EditorsSep 28, 2023

The Gemstone World Is In Its Unique Cut Era

Associate Editor Lauren McLemore recently spoke with Columbia Gem House’s Eric Braunwart about the uptick in non-traditional gemstone cuts.

Columbia Gem House Woz Cuts
The “Woz Cut,” seen here in Australian sapphires, is an octagonal cushion cut named for a friend of Columbia Gem House founder Eric Braunwart. It is one of the company’s many proprietary cuts and one of this author’s favorite gems from the HardRock Summit.
In recent years, unique gemstone cuts have grown in popularity. 

At the HardRock Summit trade show in Denver this month, I saw interesting cuts everywhere. Eric Braunwart, founder of Columbia Gem House, noticed it as well. 

Columbia Gem House is one of a handful of companies that has been experimenting with interesting cuts long before this recent trend took hold. 

Their gems have trademarked names like “GeoCut,” “Snowflake Cut,” and “Fan Cut,” and many were on display at their booth in Colorado. 


While many of the company’s unusual cuts are meant to be experimental, artistic or just interesting to look at, others, like a particular style called the “Woz Cut,” carry more significance.  

The Woz Cut is named after an old friend of Braunwart’s who developed the cut about 40 years ago. 

Shortly after he started in the business in the late ‘70s, Braunwart met John Wozencraft, who became his friend and at one point, his roommate. 

Wozencraft was a gem-cutter, which, Braunwart explained, was not so common in the United States at that time.  

“[Wozencraft] was a commercial gem-cutter as opposed to one of the amateur faceters, who are great but spend hours and hours and hours on one stone,” Braunwart said. 

Wozencraft once came up with an eight-sided cut with a diamond-shaped table on it, and Braunwart loved it from the start. 

“It was very different. Most people didn’t really do fancy shapes 45 years ago. They would do an oval or a round or a pear shape, but they didn’t do fancy shapes,” said Braunwart.  
“John specialized in fancy shapes and this was his signature cut.” 

While going through some old inventory a year ago, Braunwart found one of Wozencraft’s eight-sided cuts. 

“I thought, ‘gosh, I should do something sort of reminiscent of that,’” he said. “So, I’m sure the exact facet pattern isn’t the same, but we call it a Woz Cut because his name was John Wozencraft. It’s a tribute cut.” 

Columbia Gem House added the Woz Cut to its inventory 6 months ago. 

“It’s nice for me, because I’m looking back over as long as I’ve been doing this and some of the people I’ve worked with and trying to think of things that remind me of them and this definitely did,” Braunwart said.  

“I really loved [the cut] then and I like it now, and people seem to like it now too.” 

A while back, Wozencraft moved to Bangkok, Thailand, to bring his fancy cutting skills to that area of the world, and he lived there for some time. He and Braunwart eventually lost touch. 

“Maybe if this thing gets out there, then he’ll call me!” Braunwart said hopefully. 

Columbia Gem House has used the Woz Cut on various gemstones, including sapphire, spinel, amethyst, tourmaline, and, for bigger sizes, quartz. The octagonal cut can be made into a square cushion shape or lengthened into more of an elongated cushion. 

“We may get these long crystals of neon-green beryl or aqua or tourmaline, and by taking that Woz Cut and stretching it out, we can do a very long stone,” Braunwart said. “We’ve cut some that are 18 millimeters by 5 millimeters, like really long stretched out ones.” 

The ability of this cut pattern to be “stretched” (as seen below) can have practical aspects also. 

 

“It better utilizes the rough and creates a very interesting, unusual stone,” Braunwart said. 

Proprietary cuts and custom carvings always have been enticing for designers or consumers looking for something truly one-of-a-kind, and true creativity and skill in this area long has been a celebrated art.  

The American Gem Trade Association’s Spectrum and Cutting Edge Awards have been around since the 1980s. 

But lately, it’s not uncommon to see some dealers keeping an assortment of unique-cut pieces stocked in inventory. 

 Related stories will be right here … 
 
Columbia Gem House has a secret weapon when it comes to unusual cuts.

The U.S.-based company first set up its own managed cutting factory in China around 40 years ago, which allows it to experiment with production. 

For example, Columbia Gem House can offer the Woz Cut in calibrated sizes, rather than it being limited to a one-of-a-kind cut likely used in a limited-edition piece.

It’s a good time to have such an operation.

“There’s a big demand for unusual cuts right now,” Braunwart said, adding that he believes the demand is also unique to the U.S.

“I would be very surprised if I could go and sell them in India or China or something like that; there, I think they want the more standard cushions, ovals and pear shapes.”

One particular thing that sets apart many, though certainly not all, of the trending unusual cuts from most standard cuts is a faceted girdle, which Braunwart said tends to be harder to set versus a soft, curved girdle like a cushion. 

It’s especially difficult with prongs, because the sharp angular aspect of the feature increases the risk of chipping.

Cutting the faceted girdle is more work, and it takes more time. If a company doesn’t have Columbia Gem House’s level of managed cutting production overseas, there is another place these gemstones likely are coming from—American cutters. 

“America has some of the best cutters in the world [and] most of them are one-of-a-kind cutters,” Braunwart said.

In the past, these cutters weren’t really a practical option for larger companies with big inventories. It made more sense from a volume, time and cost perspective to buy mostly from production cutters overseas and leave only the custom, finer work to be done in the U.S.

“If you’re cutting in Thailand, you’re cutting for the Middle East, Europe, China, you’re going to do whatever is the most common denominator—rounds, ovals, pear shapes, etc. They don’t do a lot of calibrated fancy cuts,” Braunwart said.

Things appear to be changing, though. One of Braunwart’s theories for why these unique cuts seem more common now is the increase in the number of American-cut stones on the market.

“Some of [the American cutters] are starting to do a little bit of production cutting where they’ll do 12 to 15 [unique-cut] stones a week that might all be different stones, but generally all will have faceted girdles,” Braunwart said. 

While jewelry setting may remain a bit of a challenge for the faceted girdle cuts, I’m excited about the prospect of more unusual cuts becoming available. 

Even though some companies like Columbia Gem House are able to mass-produce calibrated sizes of some cuts, I think these cuts are still different enough to give consumers that unbeatable feeling of having something unique.

All this talk of the new unique cuts on the market also has me really excited to see this year’s entries for the 2023 Spectrum Awards, for which the submission deadline recently was extended

The Latest

Mikimoto The Bows high jewelry necklace
SurveysJul 09, 2025
Jewelry Stays Strong as Luxury Market Slows, Bain & Co. Says

Turbulence will be the new baseline for luxury as it faces its biggest potential setbacks in 15 years, a recent report said.

James Avery Texas charm
Policies & IssuesJul 09, 2025
James Avery to Donate $1M to Texas Hill Country Relief Efforts

The jewelry company is one of several contributing to relief efforts in the region after the recent floods.

1 NJ-Supplier-Bulletin-Snake-One.jpg
Supplier BulletinJul 09, 2025
JCK Unwrapped: Trends, Insights & Post-Show Tips

Sponsored by Rio Grande Jewelry Supply

an instructor and a student in a bench jewelry classroom
Brought to you by
Investing in the Next Generation of Bench Jewelers

The Seymour & Evelyn Holtzman Bench Scholarship from Jewelers of America returns for a second year.

Cece Jewellery For the Love of Fruits Pendants
CollectionsJul 09, 2025
Cece Jewellery’s New Fruit Jewels Celebrate Life’s Sweetness

The “For the Love of Fruits” collection features five fruit pendants, each holding a different meaning.

Weekly QuizJul 02, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
 The Dash Diamond Crater of Diamonds State Park
SourcingJul 09, 2025
Florida Couple Finds 3-Carat Diamond in Arkansas

They discovered “The Dash Diamond,” named for their dog, at the Crater of Diamonds State Park earlier this month.

Mikimoto Les Pétales Campaign Imagery and Les Pétales Necklace
CollectionsJul 08, 2025
Mikimoto’s High Jewelry Collection Turns Pearls into Petals

The “Les Pétales” collection imagines roses caught mid-bloom as a tribute to nature’s beauty.

Jewelers of America logo with meetup, State of the Majors, giveaway and massages
Brought to you by
Jewelers of America is Headed to Las Vegas for JCK 2025

The countdown is on for the JCK Las Vegas Show and JA is pulling out all the stops.

National Jeweler columnist and jewelry sales expert Peter Smith
ColumnistsJul 08, 2025
Peter Smith: Why Jewelers Struggle With Premium Pricing

Luxury brands charge thousands for their shoes and handbags. Jewelers pricing diamond products should take note, Peter Smith writes.

David Rotenberg of David Craig Jewelers
IndependentsJul 08, 2025
David Rotenberg of David Craig Jewelers Dies at 79

Rotenberg was an active member of the American Gem Society and an accomplished appraiser who also worked with therapy dogs at a hospital.

Diamond Divas Cast
TechnologyJul 08, 2025
‘Diamond Divas’ Brings the Showroom to Social Media Reality Series

It follows New York-based brand Shahla Karimi Jewelry’s all-women team in “Say Yes to the Dress” meets “The Office”-style episodes.

SMO Golden Gala
Policies & IssuesJul 08, 2025
SMO Gold Launches New Foundation

In its inaugural year, the SMO Foundation will focus on supporting two organizations in West Africa and one in South America.

Stock image of container ship in port
Policies & IssuesJul 07, 2025
Higher Tariffs Set to Take Effect Aug. 1, Officials Say

The announcement comes just as the 90-day freeze on the “reciprocal” tariffs nears its end, giving countries more time to negotiate.

David Kellie
MajorsJul 07, 2025
Natural Diamond Council CEO David Kellie To Step Down

Kellie, who joined the organization in 2019, will remain in his role through the end of 2025.

Suspects in Glendale burglary
CrimeJul 07, 2025
7 Suspects Charged in California Jewelry Store Burglary

Police officers apprehended the suspects as they were allegedly attempting to gain entry into another jewelry store.

Ella Klein Internship
Events & AwardsJul 07, 2025
Applications Open for Ella Klein Internship

The program, a collaboration between Julius Klein Diamonds and the Women’s Jewelry Association, is in its second year.

GIA iD100® Technology
Supplier BulletinJul 03, 2025
Protect Your Customers and Your Business

Sponsored by the Gemological Institute of America

Madison Keys in Brilliant Earth campaign
MajorsJul 03, 2025
Brilliant Earth Names Tennis Star Madison Keys as Its New Ambassador

The 2025 Australian Open champion is the jewelry brand’s first athlete ambassador.

Muse Nordstrom shop-in-shop
MajorsJul 03, 2025
Muse Sets Up Shop in Nordstrom’s New Jewelry Hall

The West Village jewelry boutique’s new shop-in-shop is the cornerstone of Nordstrom’s revamped jewelry hall.

Shree Ramkrishna Exports
SourcingJul 03, 2025
SRK Announces Its Natural Diamonds Are Now Carbon-Negative

This past year, the manufacturer said it recorded below-zero emissions per carat of natural diamond.

Yeprem Golden Strada Statement Necklace
CollectionsJul 03, 2025
Piece of the Week: A Firework of Diamonds From Yeprem

The brand’s “Golden Strada” statement necklace features round, marquise, and pear diamonds that sparkle like Fourth of July fireworks.

Stock image of police cars with their lights on
CrimeJul 03, 2025
JSA Shares Holiday Weekend Security Tips Amid Spike in Burglaries

JSA’s Scott Guginsky provided a list of nine security measures jewelers should observe while locking up for the long weekend.

Exterior and entryway of Boucheron’s Los Angeles Flagship
MajorsJul 02, 2025
Boucheron Looks to LA for First West Coast Flagship

Located on Rodeo Drive, the store’s design was inspired by Hollywood and Los Angeles culture.

Exterior of Marco Bicego Milan Flagship
MajorsJul 02, 2025
Marco Bicego Opens Milan Flagship

The new location continues the brand’s celebration of its 25th anniversary.

Chrono24 Time Is Our Thing campaign image
WatchesJul 02, 2025
Chrono24 Revamps Brand, Launches New Campaign

The online watch marketplace’s “Time Is Our Thing” campaign highlights the importance of time.

Bernadette Mack
SourcingJul 02, 2025
Bernadette Mack Joins Gem Legacy as Executive Director

She will oversee strategic planning, fundraising, industry partnerships, and the launch of the Gem Legacy Campus in Tanzania.

Counterfeit Pandora jewelry in bags and boxes
CrimeJul 02, 2025
Pandora, Amazon Partner to Uncover Counterfeit Jewelry Network

Working with Amazon’s Counterfeit Crimes Unit and law enforcement, Pandora helped to shut down a large-scale counterfeit network in China.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy