Editors

The Gemstone World Is In Its Unique Cut Era

EditorsSep 28, 2023

The Gemstone World Is In Its Unique Cut Era

Associate Editor Lauren McLemore recently spoke with Columbia Gem House’s Eric Braunwart about the uptick in non-traditional gemstone cuts.

Columbia Gem House Woz Cuts
The “Woz Cut,” seen here in Australian sapphires, is an octagonal cushion cut named for a friend of Columbia Gem House founder Eric Braunwart. It is one of the company’s many proprietary cuts and one of this author’s favorite gems from the HardRock Summit.
In recent years, unique gemstone cuts have grown in popularity. 

At the HardRock Summit trade show in Denver this month, I saw interesting cuts everywhere. Eric Braunwart, founder of Columbia Gem House, noticed it as well. 

Columbia Gem House is one of a handful of companies that has been experimenting with interesting cuts long before this recent trend took hold. 

Their gems have trademarked names like “GeoCut,” “Snowflake Cut,” and “Fan Cut,” and many were on display at their booth in Colorado. 


While many of the company’s unusual cuts are meant to be experimental, artistic or just interesting to look at, others, like a particular style called the “Woz Cut,” carry more significance.  

The Woz Cut is named after an old friend of Braunwart’s who developed the cut about 40 years ago. 

Shortly after he started in the business in the late ‘70s, Braunwart met John Wozencraft, who became his friend and at one point, his roommate. 

Wozencraft was a gem-cutter, which, Braunwart explained, was not so common in the United States at that time.  

“[Wozencraft] was a commercial gem-cutter as opposed to one of the amateur faceters, who are great but spend hours and hours and hours on one stone,” Braunwart said. 

Wozencraft once came up with an eight-sided cut with a diamond-shaped table on it, and Braunwart loved it from the start. 

“It was very different. Most people didn’t really do fancy shapes 45 years ago. They would do an oval or a round or a pear shape, but they didn’t do fancy shapes,” said Braunwart.  
“John specialized in fancy shapes and this was his signature cut.” 

While going through some old inventory a year ago, Braunwart found one of Wozencraft’s eight-sided cuts. 

“I thought, ‘gosh, I should do something sort of reminiscent of that,’” he said. “So, I’m sure the exact facet pattern isn’t the same, but we call it a Woz Cut because his name was John Wozencraft. It’s a tribute cut.” 

Columbia Gem House added the Woz Cut to its inventory 6 months ago. 

“It’s nice for me, because I’m looking back over as long as I’ve been doing this and some of the people I’ve worked with and trying to think of things that remind me of them and this definitely did,” Braunwart said.  

“I really loved [the cut] then and I like it now, and people seem to like it now too.” 

A while back, Wozencraft moved to Bangkok, Thailand, to bring his fancy cutting skills to that area of the world, and he lived there for some time. He and Braunwart eventually lost touch. 

“Maybe if this thing gets out there, then he’ll call me!” Braunwart said hopefully. 

Columbia Gem House has used the Woz Cut on various gemstones, including sapphire, spinel, amethyst, tourmaline, and, for bigger sizes, quartz. The octagonal cut can be made into a square cushion shape or lengthened into more of an elongated cushion. 

“We may get these long crystals of neon-green beryl or aqua or tourmaline, and by taking that Woz Cut and stretching it out, we can do a very long stone,” Braunwart said. “We’ve cut some that are 18 millimeters by 5 millimeters, like really long stretched out ones.” 

The ability of this cut pattern to be “stretched” (as seen below) can have practical aspects also. 

 

“It better utilizes the rough and creates a very interesting, unusual stone,” Braunwart said. 

Proprietary cuts and custom carvings always have been enticing for designers or consumers looking for something truly one-of-a-kind, and true creativity and skill in this area long has been a celebrated art.  

The American Gem Trade Association’s Spectrum and Cutting Edge Awards have been around since the 1980s. 

But lately, it’s not uncommon to see some dealers keeping an assortment of unique-cut pieces stocked in inventory. 

 Related stories will be right here … 
 
Columbia Gem House has a secret weapon when it comes to unusual cuts.

The U.S.-based company first set up its own managed cutting factory in China around 40 years ago, which allows it to experiment with production. 

For example, Columbia Gem House can offer the Woz Cut in calibrated sizes, rather than it being limited to a one-of-a-kind cut likely used in a limited-edition piece.

It’s a good time to have such an operation.

“There’s a big demand for unusual cuts right now,” Braunwart said, adding that he believes the demand is also unique to the U.S.

“I would be very surprised if I could go and sell them in India or China or something like that; there, I think they want the more standard cushions, ovals and pear shapes.”

One particular thing that sets apart many, though certainly not all, of the trending unusual cuts from most standard cuts is a faceted girdle, which Braunwart said tends to be harder to set versus a soft, curved girdle like a cushion. 

It’s especially difficult with prongs, because the sharp angular aspect of the feature increases the risk of chipping.

Cutting the faceted girdle is more work, and it takes more time. If a company doesn’t have Columbia Gem House’s level of managed cutting production overseas, there is another place these gemstones likely are coming from—American cutters. 

“America has some of the best cutters in the world [and] most of them are one-of-a-kind cutters,” Braunwart said.

In the past, these cutters weren’t really a practical option for larger companies with big inventories. It made more sense from a volume, time and cost perspective to buy mostly from production cutters overseas and leave only the custom, finer work to be done in the U.S.

“If you’re cutting in Thailand, you’re cutting for the Middle East, Europe, China, you’re going to do whatever is the most common denominator—rounds, ovals, pear shapes, etc. They don’t do a lot of calibrated fancy cuts,” Braunwart said.

Things appear to be changing, though. One of Braunwart’s theories for why these unique cuts seem more common now is the increase in the number of American-cut stones on the market.

“Some of [the American cutters] are starting to do a little bit of production cutting where they’ll do 12 to 15 [unique-cut] stones a week that might all be different stones, but generally all will have faceted girdles,” Braunwart said. 

While jewelry setting may remain a bit of a challenge for the faceted girdle cuts, I’m excited about the prospect of more unusual cuts becoming available. 

Even though some companies like Columbia Gem House are able to mass-produce calibrated sizes of some cuts, I think these cuts are still different enough to give consumers that unbeatable feeling of having something unique.

All this talk of the new unique cuts on the market also has me really excited to see this year’s entries for the 2023 Spectrum Awards, for which the submission deadline recently was extended

The Latest

Lightbox x Roséate Light Wand pendants
Lab-GrownDec 01, 2023
Lightbox Teams Up With Brand Founded by Former Tiffany Exec

The lab-grown diamond brand also collaborated with the website The Future Rocks on a collection launching today.

Lila Moss Calvin Klein campaign
FinancialsDec 01, 2023
Movado Lowers Guidance Again After Q3 Sales Dip

The company said it is facing a “challenging retail environment” but is prepared for the holiday season.

Muzo emerald and argyle pink diamond necklace
CollectionsDec 01, 2023
Piece of the Week: Muzo’s Emerald and Argyle Pink Diamond Necklace

It’s the hero piece of the newest "Green Jewel" collection, a collaborative offering from the two mines.

Platinum  Guild International Diamond Rings
Brought to you by
If It’s Custom, Make It Platinum

With holiday proposals right around the corner, encourage your customers to go for platinum when making the big purchase.

Pink Supreme Diamond
AuctionsNov 30, 2023
This Pink Diamond Reigned Supreme in Hong Kong

The 15.48-carat fancy intense “Pink Supreme” topped Christie’s fall jewelry auction in Asia, while a Patek Philippe led the watch sale.

Weekly QuizNov 30, 2023
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge with this short test.
Take the Quiz
Claire’s CFO COO Chris Cramer
MajorsNov 30, 2023
Claire’s Hires Former Bath & Body Works Exec as CFO, COO

Chris Cramer, who also spent time at Gen Z intimates brand Parade, will take on the dual role.

133 carat yellow diamond
AuctionsNov 30, 2023
Sotheby’s To Auction 133-Carat Yellow Diamond

The stone headlining the upcoming sale could fetch up to $5 million.

IGI-BTYB-103023.jpg
Brought to you by
Did You Know? The Vital Role of IGI: The International Gemological Institute

In a world where the sparkle of a gemstone is only as brilliant as the trust behind it, IGI's purpose is truly invaluable.

Kwiat diamonds
IndependentsNov 30, 2023
Frank Adams Rolls Out Kwiat’s ‘Mine to Shine’ Program

The retail offering lets customers track their diamond’s journey.

Diamond development hub in Angola
SourcingNov 29, 2023
Largest New Diamond Mine of the Decade Coming Online in Angola

The Luele mine is expected to eventually make the country the world’s third-largest diamond producer.

Holiday shoppers holding bags
SurveysNov 29, 2023
Holiday Shoppers Broke a Record This Weekend, Says NRF

From Thanksgiving through Cyber Monday, 200.4 million consumers shopped online and in stores.

Cast StyleBar Nordstrom
MajorsNov 29, 2023
Cast Debuts at Nordstrom, Closes on More VC Funding

The growing company also plans to open more of its own boutiques.

J. Dostie Jewelers
IndependentsNov 28, 2023
Maine Jeweler to Relocate After 76 Years

J. Dostie Jewelers will move from Lewiston to Yarmouth this spring.

Finks Jewelers new store
IndependentsNov 28, 2023
Fink’s Jewelers Opens 10th Store

It’s the company’s second location in Tennessee.

Mary Tyler Moore and a pair of Elsa Peretti Bone Cuffs
AuctionsNov 28, 2023
Mary Tyler Moore’s Jewelry Is Up For Auction

You can have this jewelry, why don’t you take it?

Original Miami Beach Antique Show 2024
Events & AwardsNov 28, 2023
The Original Miami Beach Antique Show Is Celebrating 60 Years

Next year’s milestone show will be full of educational programming and collaborations.

Platinum Born new collection
CollectionsNov 27, 2023
See the New ‘Platinum Born’ Jewelry

The brand has released five new collections.

Frank Adams Jewelers
IndependentsNov 27, 2023
Frank Adams Jewelers Named ‘Family Business of the Year’

The Albany Business Review recently honored the 100-year-old company.

GIA Dr. John W. Valley
GradingNov 27, 2023
Dr. John W. Valley Retires from GIA Board of Governors

To honor his legacy, GIA has set up a scholarship in his name.

Stock image of police car with its lights on
CrimeNov 22, 2023
JSA Warns of Surge in Attacks on Jewelers on the Road

There have been eight attacks in the last month, spanning from a jewelry store parking lot in Rhode Island to highways in California.

Buddha Mama citrine bangle
TrendsNov 22, 2023
Amanda’s Style File: November Glow

These 15 pieces of jewelry celebrate November babies and the hues of citrine and topaz that reflect the colors of the season.

Columbia Gem House fundraiser
SourcingNov 22, 2023
Columbia Gem House Raises $12K for Wildlife

The money will help a nonprofit rehabilitate sea turtles.

Facet Barcelona factory opening
MajorsNov 22, 2023
Facet Barcelona Opens New Factory in Spain

The jewelry manufacturer said it can now better serve the North American market.

David Yurman holiday campaign
TechnologyNov 21, 2023
See David Yurman’s New High-Tech Holiday Campaign

The jewelry brand takes viewers through a virtual winter wonderland set in New York City.

2023 Rock the Jewels Awards winners
Events & AwardsNov 21, 2023
Here Are the Winners of BIJC’s Inaugural ‘Rock the Jewels’ Awards

The organization recognized outstanding industry players at its celebratory event.

Rough diamonds from De Beers Gahcho Kue mine
SourcingNov 21, 2023
De Beers’ Rough Diamond Sales Sink to $80M

India’s voluntary moratorium on rough diamond imports coupled with a stunted recovery in China continue to impact the miner.

Smart Age Solutions founder and CEO Emmanuel Raheb
ColumnistsNov 21, 2023
The Smart Lab: Score Big During Football Season With Hulu Advertising

Emmanuel Raheb outlines three reasons why Hulu advertising and football can be a game changer for your jewelry store’s marketing.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy