Supplier BulletinJul 03, 2025
Protect Your Customers and Your BusinessSponsored by the Gemological Institute of America
AuctionsMar 15, 2017
Patek Philippe’s Most Complicated Watch Up for Auction
The brand’s yellow gold Calibre 89 could sell for as much as $10 million at Sotheby’s May 14 Important Watches sale in Geneva.
The yellow gold Calibre 89, Patek Philippe’s most complicated watch, has 1,728 parts. It could sell for as much as $10 million at Sotheby’s Geneva in May.
Geneva--The most complicated watch ever created by Patek Philippe soon will be up for sale.
Research into the Calibre 89 began in 1980 and took nearly a decade before the brand unveiled the finished product in yellow gold in 1989 to mark its 150th anniversary.
Nine years later, the final three Calibre 89 watches were finished, in rose gold, white gold and platinum. A prototype of the watch also is displayed at the Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva.
Now, the original yellow gold version will hit the auction block at Sotheby’s Important Watches sale in Geneva on May 14.
The timepiece is estimated to sell for between $6.4 and $9.9 million, with the auction house calling it “one of the most important watches ever to be offered at auction.”
However, if past sales are any indication, the $6-$10 million estimate could turn out to be low, as Sotheby’s sold the “Henry Graves Supercomplication,” which had nine less complications than the Calibre 89, for a record-breaking $24 million in 2014.
The Calibre 89 weighs 2 pounds, 6.4 ounces and measures 88.2 mm in diameter (with the case).
It’s Patek Philippe’s most complex mechanical watch, with 33 complications, 24 hands, two dials, eight disks, 61 bridges, 129 jewels, 184 wheels, 332 screws, 415 pins and 429 mechanical components as well as other parts for a total of 1,728 parts.
In addition to the complex calendar functions, including a tourbillon escapement and an astronomical sun hand, the watch features a unique calendar that displays the date of Easter every year.
Watch the video for a close-up of the Patek Philippe Calibre 89
Sotheby’s also has announced that this auction season will be the first in its new sales location, in the Mandarin Oriental in Geneva.
More on Auctions
The Latest
MajorsJul 03, 2025
Brilliant Earth Names Tennis Star Madison Keys as Its New AmbassadorThe 2025 Australian Open champion is the jewelry brand’s first athlete ambassador.
MajorsJul 03, 2025
Muse Sets Up Shop in Nordstrom’s New Jewelry HallThe West Village jewelry boutique’s new shop-in-shop is the cornerstone of Nordstrom’s revamped jewelry hall.
Brought to you by
Investing in the Next Generation of Bench JewelersThe Seymour & Evelyn Holtzman Bench Scholarship from Jewelers of America returns for a second year.
SourcingJul 03, 2025
SRK Announces Its Natural Diamonds Are Now Carbon-NegativeThis past year, the manufacturer said it recorded below-zero emissions per carat of natural diamond.
Weekly QuizJul 02, 2025
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
CollectionsJul 03, 2025
Piece of the Week: A Firework of Diamonds From YepremThe brand’s “Golden Strada” statement necklace features round, marquise, and pear diamonds that sparkle like Fourth of July fireworks.
CrimeJul 03, 2025
JSA Shares Holiday Weekend Security Tips Amid Spike in BurglariesJSA’s Scott Guginsky provided a list of nine security measures jewelers should observe while locking up for the long weekend.
Brought to you by
Jewelers of America is Headed to Las Vegas for JCK 2025The countdown is on for the JCK Las Vegas Show and JA is pulling out all the stops.
MajorsJul 02, 2025
Boucheron Looks to LA for First West Coast FlagshipLocated on Rodeo Drive, the store’s design was inspired by Hollywood and Los Angeles culture.
MajorsJul 02, 2025
Marco Bicego Opens Milan FlagshipThe new location continues the brand’s celebration of its 25th anniversary.
WatchesJul 02, 2025
Chrono24 Revamps Brand, Launches New CampaignThe online watch marketplace’s “Time Is Our Thing” campaign highlights the importance of time.
SourcingJul 02, 2025
Bernadette Mack Joins Gem Legacy as Executive DirectorShe will oversee strategic planning, fundraising, industry partnerships, and the launch of the Gem Legacy Campus in Tanzania.
CrimeJul 02, 2025
Pandora, Amazon Partner to Uncover Counterfeit Jewelry NetworkWorking with Amazon’s Counterfeit Crimes Unit and law enforcement, Pandora helped to shut down a large-scale counterfeit network in China.
MajorsJul 01, 2025
Cast Closes Business, Plans for RelaunchThe jewelry company has closed its three California brick-and-mortar stores, as well as its online shop, for now.
Events & AwardsJul 01, 2025
William Goldberg Diamonds, FIT Partner for Apprenticeship ProgramThe company is providing the opportunity for an FIT student to work alongside master diamond cutter Willie Lopez in its workshop.
IndependentsJul 01, 2025
Elie Hannoush, Founder of Hannoush Jewelers, Dies at 73He is remembered for his successful entrepreneurship, generosity, and dedication to his family.
MajorsJul 01, 2025
Claire’s Is Looking for a Buyer, Report SaysThe jewelry store chain has reportedly been struggling with costs related to tariffs as well as tough retail competition.
TrendsJul 01, 2025
Amanda’s Style File: Red Hot RubiesWelcome warm summer days with red hot rubies perfectly chosen as July’s birthstone.
CollectionsJun 30, 2025
State Property’s New Jewelry Tells ‘The Story of Everything’Co-founders Afzal Imram and Lin Ruiyin brought their son’s story of a cosmic egg, toadstool, and railroad to life in their new collection.
ColumnistsJun 30, 2025
The Smart Lab: Why Q3 Is the Secret Weapon For Holiday Jewelry SalesThe best time to prepare for the holiday season is right now, according to columnist Emmanuel Raheb.
Events & AwardsJun 30, 2025
AGA Names Recipient of 2025 Gemological Education ScholarshipThis year’s winner is Morgan Keefe, who is currently studying at GIA to be a gemologist.
IndependentsJun 30, 2025
Melanie Grant’s New Book Explores 200 Years of Jewelry“The Jewelry Book” comes out this September.
TechnologyJun 27, 2025
Gemist Raises $6M in Funding to Scale Jewelry Tech PlatformThe company is focused on modernizing the custom jewelry buying experience with e-commerce tools like product visualization and 3D styling.
IndependentsJun 27, 2025
David Webb Announces New Hires, PromotionsFollowing its recent acquisition, the storied brand has updated its leadership team and regional managers.
Events & AwardsJun 27, 2025
AGS, GIA Announce Beatrice Shipley Scholarship Winner AGS also named the recipient of its “Women in Leadership” scholarship.
CollectionsJun 27, 2025
Piece of the Week: Buddha Mama’s ‘Monstera’ Wrap RingThe 20-karat yellow gold and diamond wrap ring is modeled after the Monstera plants in the garden of the brand’s Miami villa.
MajorsJun 26, 2025
Why Rocksbox Is Opening Stores As Signet Jewelers DownsizesRocksbox President Allison Vigil shared the retailer’s expansion plans, and her thoughts on opening stores in malls.
