IndependentsSep 04, 2026
Orloff Jewelers Will Soon Unveil a Bigger, Better LocationThe California jeweler is renovating its store in Fresno, with plans to show off the new space in December.
EditorsDec 21, 2018
An Editor’s Favorite Collection of 2018
Impeccable design elevated humble materials to fine jewelry status in one collection that stood above the rest this year.
These “Signal Earrings” from Fernando Jorge’s “Surround” collection, released in 2018, are the designer’s favorite from the range. They feature brilliant-cut diamonds, mother-of-pearl, tagua nut and petrified wood.
I see a lot of jewelry.
Various people in the industry have expressed to me how important it is for jewelry designers to have an aesthetic signature, elements that are recognizable to both buyers and consumers, so their work doesn’t blend in in a saturated marketplace.
I’ve come to see the importance of this, particularly when strolling around a large jewelry department at the likes of Bergdorf Goodman or Barney’s. There’s no way to mix up the Repossi with the Carolina Bucci or the Judy Geib with the Sophie Bille Brahe; they’re clearly all parts of separate stories.
But I imagine this presents a challenge for designers.
For one, creatives want to experiment, maybe even take their work in a completely different direction that doesn’t look like their pre-existing collections.
And secondly, once they have found their design niche that makes them stand out, there’s always pressure to show the world something new.
So how do they constantly deliver a new take on their specific brand motifs?
I don’t have the answer to that, but Fernando Jorge does. I don’t think there’s anyone who manages to come up with such exciting new directions that feel utterly fresh but still are completely recognizable to his brand.
View this post on InstagramA post shared by Ashley Davis (@ashleylikesgems) on Jun 15, 2018 at 5:04am PDT
Among the many new collections I was lucky enough to see in 2018, Jorge’s “Surround” collection stands out to me as the strongest.
The London- and Brazil-based designer seems to reinvent his own particular wheel again and again.
In 2017, the diamond-centric “Brilliant” collection was met with accolades at the Couture show, representing a new direction for the brand we had come to associate with colored gemstones.
In 2018, he switched gears with “Surround.”
“Working closely with diamonds over the past year had me thinking about their natural beginnings and connections to the planet,” Jorge explained. “I thought about my own surroundings in the world and my deep connection to the Earth. I wanted to bring this meditation into my work—something grounded, warm and nature-inspired, but in my own aesthetic.”
“Surround” combines brilliant-cut diamonds with materials like tagua nut, nephrite jade, pink opal, mother-of-pearl and petrified wood, creating a natural progression in Jorge’s oeuvre. It’s a full circle moment for the designer, who, in his first personal jewelry project in 2002 mixed the tagua nut, called jarina in Brazil, with gold and diamonds.
Through expert design and craftsmanship, he elevates
these materials to make them feel truly luxurious. (And tagua nut, considered a substitute for ivory, is very on-message in terms of sustainability in 2018.)
“The idea of having natural materials in my work has always been present,” Jorge explained. “After ‘Brilliant,’ a collection so pure and ethereal, my instinctive response was to go back to my creative beginnings and bring back these natural and grounding elements.”
The collections, though distinctly different, work seamlessly together, a bonus for the Jorge collector and devotee (just see the above Instagram post, in which a Jorge publicist sports “Surround” earrings and a “Brilliant” collar).
Jorge’s first release of “Surround” to stores this fall encompassed 13 pieces priced between $2,000 and $184,000 at retail, though the designer also continually expands upon previous designs from collections like “Brilliant” and “Fluid,” and will surely deliver new additions to “Surround” in the future.
Each collection tells a chapter in the story of one of our contemporary era’s greatest jewelry makers. I, for one, am looking forward to seeing what Jorge has up his sleeve in 2019.
More on Editors
The Latest
CollectionsSep 04, 2026
Chelsea Gabrielle Transforms Pilates Reformer Springs Into Ring A lifelong practitioner of Pilates, Gabrielle looked to the springs’ tension and suspension when creating this ring, our Piece of the Week.
Events & AwardsSep 04, 2026
JCK Industry Fund Accepting 2027 ApplicationsThe deadline to apply is Nov. 13.
Brought to you by
Your Piece Could Be the One Editors Talk AboutSubmit your pieces for a chance to win in this year's competition.
AuctionsSep 04, 2026
Christie's Names New Global Head of WatchesThe auction house has promoted Remi Guillemin, formerly its head of watches for the Americas and EMEA, to the role.
Weekly QuizSep 03, 2026
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Events & AwardsSep 03, 2026
Here Are the First Recipients of Nina Pugliese Memorial Scholarship Jewelers of America also revealed the recipients of the Seymour & Evelyn Holtzman Bench Scholarship and its own scholarship programs.
WatchesSep 03, 2026
Robert Pattinson Joins Jaeger-LeCoultre as Brand AmbassadorThe British actor, known for his roles in “Twilight” and “The Odyssey,” will star in a campaign for the Master Control Chronometre.
Brought to you by
Why More Jewelry Retailers Are Hosting Turnkey Estate Buying EventsRetailers are seeking new ways to attract customers, increase traffic, and create revenue – Estate buying events are a popular solution.
CollectionsSep 03, 2026
Sydney Evan Celebrates 25 Years With 4 New CollectionsThe “Confetti Disco,” “Champagne Cheers,” “Tuxedo,” and “Classic Punk” jewelry collections each capture a distinct spirit of celebration.
CrimeSep 02, 2026
CA Jeweler Gets 5 Years in ‘Phantom Rolex’ Ponzi SchemeNelson Holdo of Newport Beach pleaded guilty to multiple counts of felony grand theft and writing bad checks and was sentenced Monday.
AuctionsSep 02, 2026
If You Love Cats, This Jewelry Auction Is for YouCat ladies of the jewelry world, unite. Sandy Lerner’s “significant” collection of cat jewelry and other objects is going up for auction.
MajorsSep 02, 2026
Messika Names Former Omega Exec as New President, CEO of AmericasArnaud Michon, the former Omega USA President, will now lead Messika’s Americas region during its international development.
Events & AwardsSep 02, 2026
Emerald’s New Owner Introduces ‘Glitter in the Grove’The branding references the back-to-back jewelry shows that new parent company Forge will host in Miami's Coconut Grove this November.
AuctionsSep 01, 2026
UK Woman Uncovers Rare Patek Philippe Watch in Mom’s Jewelry BoxThe stainless steel Patek Philippe “Calatrava” watch from the 1930s sold for nearly $80,000 at a recent Hansons Cornwall auction.
ColumnistsSep 01, 2026
Your Jewelry Marketing Has a Bridal ProblemEngagement rings are important but don’t ignore the customers who are buying jewelry “just because,” Emmanuel Raheb writes.
MajorsSep 01, 2026
Kering Names New Pomellato, DoDo CEOsFormer Pomellato CEO Sabina Belli has been named president of Kering Italia amid a shakeup of Kering's new Jewelry division.
MajorsSep 01, 2026
Anne Marie Shulman Joins GPA GlobalThe veteran luxury packaging executive was appointed to help the company grow its North American business.
CrimeAug 31, 2026
$4M Van Cleef & Arpels Diamond Necklace Snatched From Vienna Museum Once the property of an Egyptian queen, the necklace was part of a larger exhibition of VCA jewelry at the Museum of Applied Arts (MAK).
GradingAug 31, 2026
GIA, Gübelin Gem Lab Confirm New Paraíba Tourmaline Deposit in EthiopiaThe labs’ separate investigations each determined that the East African country is producing copper-bearing tourmaline.
Events & AwardsAug 31, 2026
Wisconsin Museum to Host Jewelry Exhibition“Chicago Collects: Jewelry in Perspective” at the Oshkosh Public Museum will feature works by Fabergé, Lalique, and Louis Comfort Tiffany.
CollectionsAug 31, 2026
Catbird Launches First Men’s Jewelry CollectionThe “Worn Well” collection is Catbird's take on classic men's jewelry.
CollectionsAug 28, 2026
Dolly Parton Would Have Loved This Butterfly Necklace This Buddha Mama butterfly is our Piece of the Week honoring the legend, who embraced the beautiful insect as her symbol.
SourcingAug 28, 2026
Gareth Penny to Give Opening Speech at CIBJO Centenary CongressThe former De Beers CEO, and perhaps its next owner, will be a featured speaker at the event, slated for Sept. 4-7 in Italy.
IndependentsAug 28, 2026
Day’s Jewelers Honored With 3 Workplace AwardsThe employee-owned jeweler was named a “Best Place to Work” in Maine, New Hampshire, and for women.
CollectionsAug 27, 2026
Pandora Expands ‘Talisman’ Collection as Lawsuit Continues The second iteration of the jewelry collection was inspired by the zodiac and the four elements: earth, water, air and fire.
SourcingAug 27, 2026
OFAC Renews License Allowing Import of ‘Grandfathered’ Russian Diamonds General License 104B supersedes General License 104A, which was set to expire on Sept. 1.
CrimeAug 27, 2026
Customs Seizes Nearly 900 Pieces of Counterfeit JewelryThe package, intercepted in Indianapolis, contained fake Cartier, Tiffany & Co., and Van Cleef and Arpels jewelry.
