ColumnistsSep 05, 2025
Peter Smith: A Lasting Lesson From Maurice Tempelsman Smith recalls a bit of wisdom the industry leader, who died last week, shared at a diamond conference years ago.
Lab-GrownMar 16, 2022
India: An Emerging Source for Lab-Grown Diamonds, Jewelry
CVD diamond growers and jewelry manufacturers will help India consolidate its competitive advantages in diamonds and jewelry manufacturing.
Nine seeds in a CVD reactor may not grow uniformly. Product consistency is therfore of utmost importance in the growing of Lab Grown Diamonds. Image courtesy of ALTR
Mumbai—The demand for lab-grown diamonds and diamond jewelry continues to grow, with companies in India — long a cutting and polishing center for natural stones — poised to become key players in the market.
Estimates on what percentage of the diamond market lab-grown stones currently comprise vary. In a recent interview with National Jeweler, industry analyst Paul Zimnisky put global lab-grown diamond jewelry sales at $5.9 billion last year, making up 7-8 percent of the market.
He estimates global lab-grown diamond jewelry sales could top $8 billion in 2022, approaching 10 percent of the total diamond jewelry market, and near the $10 billion mark by 2023.
Diamonds below smaller than 2 carats are estimated to grow the fastest, with growth in the CVD segment outpacing HPHT.
The colored lab-grown diamond market, meanwhile, is predicted to grow at a CAGR of 10.2 percent.
According to the Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council, India exported $1.05 billion worth of polished lab-grown diamonds from April 2021 to January 2022, registering growth of nearly 113 percent.
India exports mainly CVD diamonds and diamond studded diamond-set jewelry using both HPHT and CVD diamonds. Most of the HPHT rough used for jewelry manufacturing is imported from China.
Growers are investing in, and mastering, the new CVD technology to ramp up the production.
Surat, the world leader in diamond cutting and polishing, has in recent times, witnessed a growing number of CVD diamond manufacturers in recent years.
Abhishek Saraiya, vice president of diamond company Meraya, diamonds estimates there are 2,500 active reactors in India, predominantly in Surat, and a few in Jaipur and Mumbai.
“The average monthly output of a typical reactor is 125 carats and costs $175,000. The most commonly used reactor is Japan’s Seki,” he said.
One of the leading manufacturers in Jaipur with an installed base of 80 reactors is Real Illusion LLP.
Director Anup Zaveri said the company has the capacity to grow certified diamonds from 0.5 to 5 carats.
Lumex DMCC has a diamond cutting, polishing and jewelry manufacturing unit in Surat.
Founder Vishal Mehta said, “We use both HPHT and CVD diamonds for jewelry manufacturing. Being technology agnostic, we started with the former as it was the easiest available material.
“The CVD business is becoming more transparent and with supplies improving, we now use both. Surat has 15 to 20 significant CVD growers with an installed base of 50 to 500 reactors.”
Anmol Bhansali, director of Goldiam International, shared his experience in the lab-grown diamond space.
“We started growing diamonds at SEEPZ, Mumbai in 2015 and realized that the growing process of diamonds is quite different from the labor-oriented jewelry manufacturing. The high-tech business requires high-caliber talent, patience and commitment. During the first two years getting the product of desired quality, size and color was a challenge. In 2017 we would be lucky to grow round stones of 1 carat.”
Bhansali continued: “With sustained efforts and persistent experimentation, we were able to get the formula right. We can now produce polished diamonds of 2 carats easily. It is not uncommon to get a smooth production run for two months, followed by an output of cracked and broken stones.
“Consistency is directly linked to profitability in this high fixed-cost business. We hope to increase our current production to 650 polished carats by April 2022.
We grow, cut, polish diamonds, design and manufacture jewelry in-house that is distributed through our U.S. office. Vertical integration adds 20 percent to our bottom line.”
During the last few years of rapid growth, a short-term trading approach is prevalent in the industry, said Amish Shah, president of Altr.
“I believe that owning the entire supply chain requires a long-term vision rather than just finance and talent. In the absence of vertically integrated players, the mid-stream segment in the lab-growth business will be under pressure as it did in the earth-mined category.
“The fragmented supply chain of growers, distributors and retailers operating independently is inefficient. We have positioned Altr as an integrated lab-grown diamond and fine jewelry brand. Retailers are our partners, and we support them with branding and point-of-sale display material.”
Mehta said Lumex’s skill sets are in cutting, polishing, manufacturing and wholesaling lab-grown diamond jewelry to select retailers in the U.S. as well as India. Indian retailer Orra is one of them.
Lumex.online portal’s SEARCH algorithm allows partners to search for the perfect diamond that meet their specific requirements.
“We focus on our strengths and aspire to be the best in our domain. Our partners can access our digital library Lumex.Online and access, with a single click, 3,000 options of white and colored lab-grown diamonds. A natural vivid blue or pink diamond could be priced at $1 million per carat while its lab-grown diamond counterpart is available at a fraction of its cost,” he said.
While Goldiam, Altr and Lumex are integrating their upstream and midstream operations, companies like Renaissance Global and Orra have adopted a D2C direct-to-consumer approach.
SEEPZ Mumbai-headquartered Renaissance has taken a digital-only route to launch its exclusive lab-grown diamond jewelry portal for the millennial consumer.
With three exclusive LGD stores in Mumbai, Pune and Bangalore up and running, Divaa enjoys a prime mover advantage in the Indian market.
Orra’s sub-brand, Divaa, is among the first companies in the world to launch a network of exclusive lab-grown diamond jewelry boutiques. Its online portal gives Divaa an omnichannel presence.
Experts expect that the current growth phase will be followed by price stabilization leading to consolidation, mergers and acquisitions in the industry.
Note: This story was completed for publication in the special India Diamond Report newsletter prior to Russia’s invasion of Ukraine and the U.S.’s subsequent ban on Russian diamonds on March 11.
Experts expect that the current growth phase will be followed by price stabilization leading to consolidation, mergers and acquisitions in the industry.
Note: This story was completed for publication in the special India Diamond Report newsletter prior to Russia’s invasion of Ukraine and the U.S.’s subsequent ban on Russian diamonds on March 11.
More on Lab-Grown
The Latest
CollectionsSep 05, 2025
Piece of the Week: Jamie Turner’s ‘Victoria’ Necklace The “Victoria” necklace features a labradorite hugged by diamond accents in 18-karat yellow gold.
Policies & IssuesSep 05, 2025
Trump Takes Tariffs Case to the Supreme Court Two lower courts have moved to block the import taxes, which will remain in place as the legal battle continues.
Brought to you by
Rallying Call for the Jewelry Industry on Tariffs and Other Key IssuesJewelers of America is leading the charge to protect the industry amidst rising economic threats.
WatchesSep 05, 2025
Patrick Mahomes Is the New Hublot Brand AmbassadorThe Kansas City Chiefs quarterback shares Hublot’s dedication to pursuing greatness, the Swiss watchmaker said.
Weekly QuizSep 04, 2025
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
SourcingSep 04, 2025
Lucara Unveils Unusual 37-Carat Pink DiamondThe Type IIa stone, recovered from Botswana’s Karowe diamond mine last month, features unique coloration.
Brought to you by
Taking the Moment Head On: How Rio Grande Champions the Present & Future of Fine JewelryAs a leading global jewelry supplier, Rio Grande is rapidly expanding and developing new solutions to meet the needs of jewelers worldwide.
Events & AwardsSep 04, 2025
27 Can’t-Miss Converge Sessions, Events From sunrise yoga to tariffs talks, these are some events to check out at the upcoming inaugural event.
WatchesSep 04, 2025
Breitling Takes Its NFL Game to the Next Level Breitling is now the NFL’s official timepiece partner, a move that puts the brand in front of the millions of Americans who watch football.
Events & AwardsSep 04, 2025
The NYC Jewelry, Antique, & Object Show Returns in NovemberNYCJAOS is set for Nov. 21-23 in New York City’s Chelsea neighborhood.
SourcingSep 03, 2025
Gemfields Confirms Completion of Fabergé SaleU.S.-based investment company SMG Capital LLC is the new owner of the luxury brand.
MajorsSep 03, 2025
These Are the Nearly 300 Claire’s Stores Set to CloseA new court filing details the locations of the stores that will close, as well as the 830 that will remain open.
MajorsSep 03, 2025
Stuller Releases 2 New Catalogs The new catalogs are “Tools, Equipment, & Metals” and “Findings & Metals.”
TrendsSep 03, 2025
Amanda’s Style File: A Perfect BirthstoneSapphire’s variety of colors make it the perfect birthstone for September.
FinancialsSep 02, 2025
Lab-Grown Diamonds, Lower-Priced Fashion Jewelry Drive Signet Jewelers’ Q2 SalesThe retailer has raised its guidance after seeing total sales increase 3 percent in the second quarter, beating expectations.
MajorsSep 02, 2025
Birks CEO Jean-Christophe Bédos Steps DownNiccolò Rossi di Montelera, executive chairman of the board, was appointed as interim CEO.
MajorsSep 02, 2025
Harry Winston Opens Its Largest Flagship in JapanThe three-floor space also features the jeweler’s largest VIP salon in Japan and offers an exclusive diamond pendant.
CollectionsSep 02, 2025
Stephanie Gottlieb Debuts Silver Designs in ‘All Hours’ CollabThe collection is a collaboration between Stephanie Gottlieb Fine Jewelry and Oak and Luna, focusing on understated essentials.
AuctionsAug 29, 2025
Sotheby’s UAE Sale to Feature 32-Carat Fancy Vivid Orangy Pink DiamondThe highlight of a single-owner jewelry and watch collection, it’s estimated to fetch up to $7 million at auction this December.
FinancialsAug 29, 2025
Movado’s Q2 Sales Rebound Despite Tariff ImpactCEO Efraim Grinberg noted a resurgence in the fashion watch market.
CollectionsAug 29, 2025
Piece of the Week: Mark Davis’ ‘Bullseye’ Necklace The “Bullseye” necklace, with vintage bakelite and peridot, August’s birthstone, is the perfect transitional piece as summer turns to fall.
Supplier BulletinAug 28, 2025
Clientbook Is Helping Jewelers Turn Clienteling Challenges into Wins with Hands-On Training and CoachingSponsored by Clientbook
GradingAug 28, 2025
GIA’s New ‘Quality Assessment’ for Lab-Grown Diamonds Is Coming It will classify lab-grown stones into one of two categories, “premium” or “standard,” in lieu of giving specific color and clarity grades.
SourcingAug 28, 2025
Botswana Declares Public Health Emergency Amid Diamond Sales SlumpPresident Duma Boko addressed the country’s medical supply chain crisis in a recent televised address.
MajorsAug 28, 2025
Borsheims Names New Jewelry BuyerFormer Free People buyer Afton Robertson-Kanne recently joined the retailer.
IndependentsAug 28, 2025
Sissy’s Log Cabin Donates School Supplies to Memphis StudentsThe jeweler teamed up with two local organizations for its inaugural “Back to School and Bling” event.
