AuctionsDec 09, 2021
See the Most Expensive Louis Comfort Tiffany Piece Ever Sold at AuctionAuctionsDec 16, 2021
39 René Lalique Pieces from One Collection Head to Auction
A patron collected them over four decades.
This René Lalique ivory, horn, enamel, and diamond comb is predicted to be the top lot at an upcoming Sotheby’s auction. It is one of three “Orchidée” combs created by the designer as artists turned more to plants for inspiration at the turn of the 20th century.
Paris—Tomorrow, a rare museum-quality collection of pieces from iconic Art Nouveau designer René Lalique will go up for auction in Paris.
The Dec. 17 sale at Sotheby’s features 39 lots collected by Claude H. Sorbac, who died this year.
Lalique (1860-1945) got his start as an apprentice with goldsmith and jeweler Louis Aucoc in 1876, before studying at the Sydenham Art College of London. He went on to work as a designer for jewelry houses such as Vever, Cartier, and Boucheron.
In 1885, he became an independent designer, exhibiting works under his own name and exploring different materials. After doing that for 25 years, he left goldsmithing and jewelry behind to explore the art of glassmaking, which brought him worldwide acclaim.
Collector Sorbac, meanwhile, grew up in a family of art lovers surrounded by paintings and art objects from the likes of Renoir, Sisley, Degas, and Tiepolo.
See: Highlights of the Upcoming Lalique Jewelry Auction
The Dec. 17 sale at Sotheby’s features 39 lots collected by Claude H. Sorbac, who died this year.
Lalique (1860-1945) got his start as an apprentice with goldsmith and jeweler Louis Aucoc in 1876, before studying at the Sydenham Art College of London. He went on to work as a designer for jewelry houses such as Vever, Cartier, and Boucheron.
In 1885, he became an independent designer, exhibiting works under his own name and exploring different materials. After doing that for 25 years, he left goldsmithing and jewelry behind to explore the art of glassmaking, which brought him worldwide acclaim.
Collector Sorbac, meanwhile, grew up in a family of art lovers surrounded by paintings and art objects from the likes of Renoir, Sisley, Degas, and Tiepolo.
See: Highlights of the Upcoming Lalique Jewelry Auction
A closer view of the auction’s No. 1 lot. The “Orchidée Cattleya” comb features ivory, horn, enamel, and diamond and is expected to sell for €700,000-€1.5 million, or about $791,000-$1.7 million at current exchange rates.
The “Hirondelles Amoureuses” comb features two swallows made of horn, one holding a branch highlighted with circular- and single-cut diamonds. It could garner between €400,000 and €600,000 ($452,000-$678,000).
The “Grenouilles” necklace, circa 1902-1903, was inspired by the story of the princess in the play “La Princesse au Sabbat,” whose palace was adorned with mirrors and frogs and was punished for her conceit. It features glass frogs with enamel and circular-cut diamonds (€400,000-€600,000, or $452,000-$678,000).
Lalique started to work with glass at the start of the 20th century, allowing him to make increasingly sculptural designs with more precision than if he used fine or ornamental stones. This “Libellules et Fougères” necklace features a series of glass motifs with enamel and circular-cut and rose-cut diamonds (€250,000-€400,000, or $282,000-$452,000).
The “Pensées” tiara is decorated with glass pansies, green enamel foliage, and circular, single-cut, and rose-cut diamonds (€150,000-€300,000, or $169,400-$339,000).
After joining the 1st Moroccan Spahi Regiment during WWII and participating in the liberation of Paris, he returned home to France to start his career as an entrepreneur and, at the same time, started collecting antiques.
In the latter pursuit, he quickly took an interest in Art Nouveau and its primary players, and it wasn’t long before Lalique works became his main interest.
He devoted decades to this passion, travelling to flea markets and auctions to find the best, even buying pieces directly from Lalique’s heirs, and as such his collection traces the designer’s career and reflects his many inspirations and collaborations with other creatives.
It highlights the artist’s pioneering use of innovative materials like glass, aluminum, bronze, and copper, combined with fine materials like diamonds, gemstones, and gold.
Pieces from Sorbac’s collection have been featured in international exhibitions, at institutions such as the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris, the Smithsonian Institution, the Kyoto National Museum, and the Kremlin in Moscow.
Now, they are appearing at auction for the first time.
See: More Jewels in the Dec. 17 Lalique Auction
The “Chantecler” large collar was created for actress Sarah Bernhardt in the play of the same name. It features openwork leather embroidered with silk, depicting roosters that are applied with enamel and accented by glass berry motifs, and features a cabochon citrine on the clasp (€150,000-€200,000, or $169,400-$226,000).
The “Papillon de Nuit” clip is in the shape of a night butterfly with articulated wings, multi-colored cloisonné enamel, and circular-cut and rose-cut diamonds (€150,000-€300,000, or $169,400-$339,000).
The profile of actress Sarah Bernhardt, who was a muse and patron, appears in several of Lalique’s designs, as seen in this “Visage de Femme et Glycine” pendant-necklace, which also shows wisteria flowers applied with blue and green enamel (€100,000-€200,000, or $113,000--$226,000).
“Mûres” brooch made of steel and aluminum with mulberry motifs (€8,000-€12,000, or $9,000-$14,000)
The Ophelia plaque shows the protagonist of Shakespeare’s “Hamlet” laying under a willow branch, evoking her tragic death by drowning (€4,000-€8,000, or $5,000-$9,000).
The top lot of the sale is the ivory, horn, enamel, and diamond comb seen at the top of this article, purchased in 1976 from one of Lalique’s heirs.
Showcasing the influence new species of plants were having on turn-of-the century artists, it is one of three “Orchidée” combs he made in 1904, with Sotheby’s calling this one the “most grand” in terms of size, finesse, the “velvety” texture of the petals and the delicate plique-à-jour enamel work.
Another comb, dubbed “Hirondelles Amoureuses,” or “Loving Swallows,” circa 1905-1906, is the No. 2 sale lot.
The Japonisme-inspired piece was also purchased from one of Lalique’s descendants in 1979 and showcases the designer’s fondness for the swallow design, which symbolized the return of springtime, renewal, energy, and freedom.
Another highlight showcasing the influence of nature is a tiara adorned with glass pansies alternating with diamond-studded green enamel foliage designs.
Sotheby’s said a note from Sorbac helps explain why the piece is so special: “In the language of flowers, when a man gives pansies to a woman, he is thinking about her. A husband or lover who gave this headband to his sweetheart was therefore expressing a message of tenderness, affection, and faithfulness. The woman who proudly wore it was laying claim to the same feelings and associations.”
Showing Lalique’s connection to the art world is a pendant-necklace in gold and enamel depicting the profile of actress Sarah Bernhardt, who was one of his muses and patrons and who wore his designs on stage and in real life.
Meanwhile, a stunning collar embroidered in leather, decorated with enamel cockerels, and studded with glass mulberries designed for Bernhardt’s role in the play “Chantecler” is also in the auction. It has a cape buckle in the shape of two sparring Chanticleers, or roosters, and a cabochon citrine at the clasp.
To see all 39 lots in Friday’s sale, visit Sotheby’s.com.
More on Auctions
The Latest
EditorsSep 16, 2025
Out & About: 7 Great Quotes From Converge in CarlsbadAt Converge 2025, Editor-in-Chief Michelle Graff attended sessions on DEI, tariffs, security, and more. Here are her top takeaways.
CrimeSep 16, 2025
2 Robbery Suspects Killed in California Pawn Shop ShootoutSix people were shot last week at an Oakland cash-for-gold shop as employees exchanged gunfire with individuals trying to rob the store.
CollectionsSep 16, 2025
Chopard Adds New Designs to Its ‘Ice Cube’ Capsule CollectionThe jeweler has expanded its high jewelry offering, which launched last year, with new pieces featuring its cube motif that debuted in 1999.
Brought to you by
reDollar.com Is Rolling Out the Next Level Jewelry, Diamond & Watch Consignment ProgramWith their unmatched services and low fees, reDollar.com is challenging some big names in the online consignment world.
SourcingSep 16, 2025
Natural Diamond Council Launches Retailer Accreditation ProgramBen Bridge Jeweler and Lux Bond & Green were a part of the pilot program.
Weekly QuizSep 12, 2025
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
EditorsSep 15, 2025
Skipping the Necklace, Embracing Snakes: The Best Jewelry From the 2025 Emmy AwardsAssociate Editor Natalie Francisco shares eight of her favorite jewelry looks from the 77th annual Primetime Emmy Awards, held Sunday night.
SurveysSep 15, 2025
Resilient Shoppers to Boost Holiday Retail Sales, Says DeloitteIt’s predicting a rise in retail sales this holiday season despite economic uncertainty and elevated inflation.
Brought to you by
Rallying Call for the Jewelry Industry on Tariffs and Other Key IssuesJewelers of America is leading the charge to protect the industry amidst rising economic threats.
SourcingSep 15, 2025
Gemfields Achieves $32M at High-Quality Emerald AuctionIt included the sale of the 11,685-carat “Imboo” emerald that was recently discovered at Kagem.
SourcingSep 15, 2025
AGTA Elects 8 Members to Board of Directors The newly elected directors will officially take office in February 2026 and will be introduced at the organization’s membership meeting.
EditorsSep 12, 2025
Out & About: Mining Sapphires in Rock Creek, MontanaAssociate Editor Lauren McLemore headed out West for a visit to Potentate Mining’s operation hosted by gemstone wholesaler Parlé Gems.
TrendsSep 12, 2025
Piece of the Week: Arunashi’s Fordite and Rhodolite EarringsFordite is a man-made material created from the layers of dried enamel paint that dripped onto the floors of automotive factories.
Events & AwardsSep 12, 2025
Al Gilbertson Wins 2025 Robert M. Shipley AwardGilbertson has worked as a researcher, jeweler, lapidary artist, appraiser, and business owner throughout his decades in the industry.
Policies & IssuesSep 11, 2025
Supreme Court to Hear Tariffs Case in November A decision likely won’t come until January 2026 at the earliest, and the tariffs remain in effect until then.
MajorsSep 11, 2025
Tabayer Opens Nordstrom Shop-In-ShopLocated in the revamped jewelry hall at the retailer’s New York City flagship, this opening is Tabayer’s first shop-in-shop.
SourcingSep 11, 2025
Need to Sell More Natural Diamonds? De Beers Has an App for ThatThe new, free app offers accessible educational content, like games and podcasts, for U.S. retailers.
MajorsSep 10, 2025
Stuller to Swap Gold Scrap for Full Credit to AccountAs the gold price rises, the manufacturer is offering a 100 percent payout through Sept. 30 for gold clean scrap.
SourcingSep 10, 2025
Tech Meets Style in the New Loewe x Jacob & Co. HeadphonesJacob & Co. partnered with the German technology company on two pairs of headphones, one set with diamonds and the other with sapphires.
TrendsSep 10, 2025
Tiffany & Co. Archival Jewels Bring Life to ‘Frankenstein’Guillermo del Toro’s 2025 “Frankenstein” will feature 27 jewels and objects from the storied brand, including pieces from its archives.
MajorsSep 10, 2025
24 Karat Club of New York’s Banquet to Return to Waldorf AstoriaThe Waldorf Astoria New York’s grand reopening this past summer means a homecoming for the industry group’s annual event.
SourcingSep 09, 2025
Anglo American to Merge With Canadian Copper Miner Anglo plans to merge with Teck Resources Ltd. to form Anglo Teck. The deal changes nothing about its plans to offload De Beers.
MajorsSep 09, 2025
MJSA Education Foundation Announces 2025 Scholarship WinnersThe nonprofit awarded four students pursuing a professional career in jewelry making and design with $2,250 each.
IndependentsSep 08, 2025
Take a Look Inside the New Korman Store in AustinThe Texas-based jeweler has also undergone a brand refresh, debuting a new website and logo.
MajorsSep 08, 2025
MJSA Is Officially Now Under JA’s UmbrellaThe two organizations have finalized and signed the affiliation agreement announced in May.
AuctionsSep 08, 2025
Sotheby’s To Auction ‘Exceptional’ Collection of JAR, Suzanne Belperron JewelsThe single-owner sale will headline Sotheby's inaugural jewelry auction at the Breuer building, its new global headquarters, this December.
Events & AwardsSep 08, 2025
27 Can’t-Miss Converge Sessions, Events From sunrise yoga to tariffs talks, these are some events to check out at the upcoming inaugural event.
ColumnistsSep 05, 2025
Peter Smith: A Lasting Lesson From Maurice Tempelsman Smith recalls a bit of wisdom the industry leader, who died last week, shared at a diamond conference years ago.
