AuctionsDec 09, 2021
See the Most Expensive Louis Comfort Tiffany Piece Ever Sold at AuctionAuctionsDec 16, 2021
39 René Lalique Pieces from One Collection Head to Auction
A patron collected them over four decades.
This René Lalique ivory, horn, enamel, and diamond comb is predicted to be the top lot at an upcoming Sotheby’s auction. It is one of three “Orchidée” combs created by the designer as artists turned more to plants for inspiration at the turn of the 20th century.
Paris—Tomorrow, a rare museum-quality collection of pieces from iconic Art Nouveau designer René Lalique will go up for auction in Paris.
The Dec. 17 sale at Sotheby’s features 39 lots collected by Claude H. Sorbac, who died this year.
Lalique (1860-1945) got his start as an apprentice with goldsmith and jeweler Louis Aucoc in 1876, before studying at the Sydenham Art College of London. He went on to work as a designer for jewelry houses such as Vever, Cartier, and Boucheron.
In 1885, he became an independent designer, exhibiting works under his own name and exploring different materials. After doing that for 25 years, he left goldsmithing and jewelry behind to explore the art of glassmaking, which brought him worldwide acclaim.
Collector Sorbac, meanwhile, grew up in a family of art lovers surrounded by paintings and art objects from the likes of Renoir, Sisley, Degas, and Tiepolo.
See: Highlights of the Upcoming Lalique Jewelry Auction
The Dec. 17 sale at Sotheby’s features 39 lots collected by Claude H. Sorbac, who died this year.
Lalique (1860-1945) got his start as an apprentice with goldsmith and jeweler Louis Aucoc in 1876, before studying at the Sydenham Art College of London. He went on to work as a designer for jewelry houses such as Vever, Cartier, and Boucheron.
In 1885, he became an independent designer, exhibiting works under his own name and exploring different materials. After doing that for 25 years, he left goldsmithing and jewelry behind to explore the art of glassmaking, which brought him worldwide acclaim.
Collector Sorbac, meanwhile, grew up in a family of art lovers surrounded by paintings and art objects from the likes of Renoir, Sisley, Degas, and Tiepolo.
See: Highlights of the Upcoming Lalique Jewelry Auction
A closer view of the auction’s No. 1 lot. The “Orchidée Cattleya” comb features ivory, horn, enamel, and diamond and is expected to sell for €700,000-€1.5 million, or about $791,000-$1.7 million at current exchange rates.
The “Hirondelles Amoureuses” comb features two swallows made of horn, one holding a branch highlighted with circular- and single-cut diamonds. It could garner between €400,000 and €600,000 ($452,000-$678,000).
The “Grenouilles” necklace, circa 1902-1903, was inspired by the story of the princess in the play “La Princesse au Sabbat,” whose palace was adorned with mirrors and frogs and was punished for her conceit. It features glass frogs with enamel and circular-cut diamonds (€400,000-€600,000, or $452,000-$678,000).
Lalique started to work with glass at the start of the 20th century, allowing him to make increasingly sculptural designs with more precision than if he used fine or ornamental stones. This “Libellules et Fougères” necklace features a series of glass motifs with enamel and circular-cut and rose-cut diamonds (€250,000-€400,000, or $282,000-$452,000).
The “Pensées” tiara is decorated with glass pansies, green enamel foliage, and circular, single-cut, and rose-cut diamonds (€150,000-€300,000, or $169,400-$339,000).
After joining the 1st Moroccan Spahi Regiment during WWII and participating in the liberation of Paris, he returned home to France to start his career as an entrepreneur and, at the same time, started collecting antiques.
In the latter pursuit, he quickly took an interest in Art Nouveau and its primary players, and it wasn’t long before Lalique works became his main interest.
He devoted decades to this passion, travelling to flea markets and auctions to find the best, even buying pieces directly from Lalique’s heirs, and as such his collection traces the designer’s career and reflects his many inspirations and collaborations with other creatives.
It highlights the artist’s pioneering use of innovative materials like glass, aluminum, bronze, and copper, combined with fine materials like diamonds, gemstones, and gold.
Pieces from Sorbac’s collection have been featured in international exhibitions, at institutions such as the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris, the Smithsonian Institution, the Kyoto National Museum, and the Kremlin in Moscow.
Now, they are appearing at auction for the first time.
See: More Jewels in the Dec. 17 Lalique Auction
The “Chantecler” large collar was created for actress Sarah Bernhardt in the play of the same name. It features openwork leather embroidered with silk, depicting roosters that are applied with enamel and accented by glass berry motifs, and features a cabochon citrine on the clasp (€150,000-€200,000, or $169,400-$226,000).
The “Papillon de Nuit” clip is in the shape of a night butterfly with articulated wings, multi-colored cloisonné enamel, and circular-cut and rose-cut diamonds (€150,000-€300,000, or $169,400-$339,000).
The profile of actress Sarah Bernhardt, who was a muse and patron, appears in several of Lalique’s designs, as seen in this “Visage de Femme et Glycine” pendant-necklace, which also shows wisteria flowers applied with blue and green enamel (€100,000-€200,000, or $113,000--$226,000).
“Mûres” brooch made of steel and aluminum with mulberry motifs (€8,000-€12,000, or $9,000-$14,000)
The Ophelia plaque shows the protagonist of Shakespeare’s “Hamlet” laying under a willow branch, evoking her tragic death by drowning (€4,000-€8,000, or $5,000-$9,000).
The top lot of the sale is the ivory, horn, enamel, and diamond comb seen at the top of this article, purchased in 1976 from one of Lalique’s heirs.
Showcasing the influence new species of plants were having on turn-of-the century artists, it is one of three “Orchidée” combs he made in 1904, with Sotheby’s calling this one the “most grand” in terms of size, finesse, the “velvety” texture of the petals and the delicate plique-à-jour enamel work.
Another comb, dubbed “Hirondelles Amoureuses,” or “Loving Swallows,” circa 1905-1906, is the No. 2 sale lot.
The Japonisme-inspired piece was also purchased from one of Lalique’s descendants in 1979 and showcases the designer’s fondness for the swallow design, which symbolized the return of springtime, renewal, energy, and freedom.
Another highlight showcasing the influence of nature is a tiara adorned with glass pansies alternating with diamond-studded green enamel foliage designs.
Sotheby’s said a note from Sorbac helps explain why the piece is so special: “In the language of flowers, when a man gives pansies to a woman, he is thinking about her. A husband or lover who gave this headband to his sweetheart was therefore expressing a message of tenderness, affection, and faithfulness. The woman who proudly wore it was laying claim to the same feelings and associations.”
Showing Lalique’s connection to the art world is a pendant-necklace in gold and enamel depicting the profile of actress Sarah Bernhardt, who was one of his muses and patrons and who wore his designs on stage and in real life.
Meanwhile, a stunning collar embroidered in leather, decorated with enamel cockerels, and studded with glass mulberries designed for Bernhardt’s role in the play “Chantecler” is also in the auction. It has a cape buckle in the shape of two sparring Chanticleers, or roosters, and a cabochon citrine at the clasp.
To see all 39 lots in Friday’s sale, visit Sotheby’s.com.
Editors' Picks
Sponsored by
More on Auctions
The Latest
Supplier BulletinJan 22, 2026
The Rise of Centralized Sourcing in the Colored Gemstone MarketSponsored by RapNet
MajorsJan 22, 2026
Lugano Diamonds Finds a BuyerInvestment firm Enhanced Retail Funding, a division of Gordon Brothers, was the successful bidder.
SourcingJan 22, 2026
De Beers To Release ‘A Diamond Is Forever’ BookIt explores the history of the iconic tagline and the company’s strategy to redefine the role of diamonds in society.
Brought to you by
How Jewelers Can Fight Back Against Cell JammersCriminals are using cell jammers to disable alarms, but new technology like JamAlert™ can stop them.
MajorsJan 22, 2026
Swarovski Appoints New North America PresidentRetail veteran Sindhu Culas has stepped into the role.
Weekly QuizJan 22, 2026
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
MajorsJan 22, 2026
Stuller Names New Chief Merchandising, Marketing, Sales OfficerTaylor Burgess, who has been at Stuller since 2013, was promoted to the newly created role.
PodcastsJan 21, 2026
Episode 1: High Gold Prices, the Diamond Dilemma, & What’s NextWas 2025 a good year for jewelers? Did lab-grown diamonds outsell natural? Find out on the first episode of the “My Next Question” podcast.
Brought to you by
Impacting Tomorrow TodayHow Jewelers of America’s 20 Under 40 are leading to ensure a brighter future for the jewelry industry.
EditorsJan 21, 2026
6 Jewelry Designers Poised to Have a Breakout Year in 2026Whether you recognize their jewels or are just discovering them now, these designers’ talent and vision make them ones to watch this year.
SourcingJan 21, 2026
Tucson Preview 2026: Earthy Tones and Innovative Shapes Buyers are expected to gravitate toward gemstones that have a little something special, just like last year.
CrimeJan 21, 2026
4 Men Charged in $1.7M California Smash-and-Grab Jewelry Store RobberyPlus, JSA’s Scott Guginsky discusses the need for jewelers to take more precautions as the gold price continues to climb.
IndependentsJan 21, 2026
Delaware Jeweler Felice Morris Dies at 91Morris’ most cherished role was being a mother and grandmother, her family said.
CollectionsJan 21, 2026
Bulgari Weaves New Collection of ‘Vimini’ Creations“Vimini” is the first chapter of the “Bulgari Eternal” collection that merges archival pieces with modern creations.
Events & AwardsJan 21, 2026
Jewelers Mutual’s ‘Conversations’ Retreat Returns to Discuss AIThe third edition will be held in Half Moon Bay, California, in April.
Events & AwardsJan 20, 2026
These Are the 5 Finalists for the David Yurman Gem Awards GrantThe grant is in its first year and was created to recognize an exceptional fine jewelry designer whose star is on the rise.
ColumnistsJan 20, 2026
First-Party Data Is the Most Valuable Asset Jewelers Have in 2026Data built on trust, not tracking, will be key to success going forward, as the era of “borrowed attention” ends, Emmanuel Raheb writes.
MajorsJan 20, 2026
Borsheims Hires New Assistant Facilities ManagerHeath Yarges brings two decades of experience to the role.
EditorsJan 16, 2026
Remembering Pete Yantzer for His Contributions and His Kindness Pete’s boundless curiosity extended beyond diamond cut and he was always eager to share his knowledge with others, no matter the topic.
FinancialsJan 16, 2026
Richemont’s Jewelry Brands Shine in Q3Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Buccellati, and Vhernier had another successful holiday season, Richemont reported this week.
TrendsJan 16, 2026
Diane Lane's Brooch Buzzes at the 2026 Golden GlobesOur Piece of the Week is Lagos’ “Bee” brooch that was seen on the red carpet for the first time on Sunday.
CrimeJan 15, 2026
D.C. Rapper ‘Taliban Glizzy’ Sentenced to 18+ Years for Jewelry Store RobberiesTrevor Jonathan Wright led a crew in a string of armed robberies targeting South Asian-owned jewelry stores on the East Coast.
Events & AwardsJan 15, 2026
Jewelers of Americas’ ‘20 Under 40’ Nominations Now OpenThe program recognizes rising professionals in the jewelry industry.
Events & AwardsJan 15, 2026
Registration for JCK Las Vegas 2026 Is Now OpenA new lifestyle section and a watch showcase have been added to this year’s event.
TrendsJan 15, 2026
Don’t Double-Dip With This Golden ChipAvocados From Mexico is celebrating those who love to double-dip in game day guacamole with a 14-karat yellow gold tortilla chip necklace.
SourcingJan 15, 2026
Nearly 42-Carat Blue Diamond Discovered in South AfricaPetra Diamonds unearthed the 41.82-carat, Type IIb blue diamond at the Cullinan Mine.
CollectionsJan 14, 2026
Marie Lichtenberg Lassos Leather for New BraceletsThe brand is trading its colorful fabric cords for Italian leather in its “Lasso” baby locket bracelets.
TechnologyJan 14, 2026
“My Next Question” Enters Its Podcast Era National Jeweler and Jewelers of America’s popular webinar series is evolving in 2026.
