AuctionsDec 09, 2021
See the Most Expensive Louis Comfort Tiffany Piece Ever Sold at AuctionAuctionsDec 16, 2021
39 René Lalique Pieces from One Collection Head to Auction
A patron collected them over four decades.
This René Lalique ivory, horn, enamel, and diamond comb is predicted to be the top lot at an upcoming Sotheby’s auction. It is one of three “Orchidée” combs created by the designer as artists turned more to plants for inspiration at the turn of the 20th century.
Paris—Tomorrow, a rare museum-quality collection of pieces from iconic Art Nouveau designer René Lalique will go up for auction in Paris.
The Dec. 17 sale at Sotheby’s features 39 lots collected by Claude H. Sorbac, who died this year.
Lalique (1860-1945) got his start as an apprentice with goldsmith and jeweler Louis Aucoc in 1876, before studying at the Sydenham Art College of London. He went on to work as a designer for jewelry houses such as Vever, Cartier, and Boucheron.
In 1885, he became an independent designer, exhibiting works under his own name and exploring different materials. After doing that for 25 years, he left goldsmithing and jewelry behind to explore the art of glassmaking, which brought him worldwide acclaim.
Collector Sorbac, meanwhile, grew up in a family of art lovers surrounded by paintings and art objects from the likes of Renoir, Sisley, Degas, and Tiepolo.
See: Highlights of the Upcoming Lalique Jewelry Auction
The Dec. 17 sale at Sotheby’s features 39 lots collected by Claude H. Sorbac, who died this year.
Lalique (1860-1945) got his start as an apprentice with goldsmith and jeweler Louis Aucoc in 1876, before studying at the Sydenham Art College of London. He went on to work as a designer for jewelry houses such as Vever, Cartier, and Boucheron.
In 1885, he became an independent designer, exhibiting works under his own name and exploring different materials. After doing that for 25 years, he left goldsmithing and jewelry behind to explore the art of glassmaking, which brought him worldwide acclaim.
Collector Sorbac, meanwhile, grew up in a family of art lovers surrounded by paintings and art objects from the likes of Renoir, Sisley, Degas, and Tiepolo.
See: Highlights of the Upcoming Lalique Jewelry Auction
A closer view of the auction’s No. 1 lot. The “Orchidée Cattleya” comb features ivory, horn, enamel, and diamond and is expected to sell for €700,000-€1.5 million, or about $791,000-$1.7 million at current exchange rates.
The “Hirondelles Amoureuses” comb features two swallows made of horn, one holding a branch highlighted with circular- and single-cut diamonds. It could garner between €400,000 and €600,000 ($452,000-$678,000).
The “Grenouilles” necklace, circa 1902-1903, was inspired by the story of the princess in the play “La Princesse au Sabbat,” whose palace was adorned with mirrors and frogs and was punished for her conceit. It features glass frogs with enamel and circular-cut diamonds (€400,000-€600,000, or $452,000-$678,000).
Lalique started to work with glass at the start of the 20th century, allowing him to make increasingly sculptural designs with more precision than if he used fine or ornamental stones. This “Libellules et Fougères” necklace features a series of glass motifs with enamel and circular-cut and rose-cut diamonds (€250,000-€400,000, or $282,000-$452,000).
The “Pensées” tiara is decorated with glass pansies, green enamel foliage, and circular, single-cut, and rose-cut diamonds (€150,000-€300,000, or $169,400-$339,000).
After joining the 1st Moroccan Spahi Regiment during WWII and participating in the liberation of Paris, he returned home to France to start his career as an entrepreneur and, at the same time, started collecting antiques.
In the latter pursuit, he quickly took an interest in Art Nouveau and its primary players, and it wasn’t long before Lalique works became his main interest.
He devoted decades to this passion, travelling to flea markets and auctions to find the best, even buying pieces directly from Lalique’s heirs, and as such his collection traces the designer’s career and reflects his many inspirations and collaborations with other creatives.
It highlights the artist’s pioneering use of innovative materials like glass, aluminum, bronze, and copper, combined with fine materials like diamonds, gemstones, and gold.
Pieces from Sorbac’s collection have been featured in international exhibitions, at institutions such as the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris, the Smithsonian Institution, the Kyoto National Museum, and the Kremlin in Moscow.
Now, they are appearing at auction for the first time.
See: More Jewels in the Dec. 17 Lalique Auction
The “Chantecler” large collar was created for actress Sarah Bernhardt in the play of the same name. It features openwork leather embroidered with silk, depicting roosters that are applied with enamel and accented by glass berry motifs, and features a cabochon citrine on the clasp (€150,000-€200,000, or $169,400-$226,000).
The “Papillon de Nuit” clip is in the shape of a night butterfly with articulated wings, multi-colored cloisonné enamel, and circular-cut and rose-cut diamonds (€150,000-€300,000, or $169,400-$339,000).
The profile of actress Sarah Bernhardt, who was a muse and patron, appears in several of Lalique’s designs, as seen in this “Visage de Femme et Glycine” pendant-necklace, which also shows wisteria flowers applied with blue and green enamel (€100,000-€200,000, or $113,000--$226,000).
“Mûres” brooch made of steel and aluminum with mulberry motifs (€8,000-€12,000, or $9,000-$14,000)
The Ophelia plaque shows the protagonist of Shakespeare’s “Hamlet” laying under a willow branch, evoking her tragic death by drowning (€4,000-€8,000, or $5,000-$9,000).
The top lot of the sale is the ivory, horn, enamel, and diamond comb seen at the top of this article, purchased in 1976 from one of Lalique’s heirs.
Showcasing the influence new species of plants were having on turn-of-the century artists, it is one of three “Orchidée” combs he made in 1904, with Sotheby’s calling this one the “most grand” in terms of size, finesse, the “velvety” texture of the petals and the delicate plique-à-jour enamel work.
Another comb, dubbed “Hirondelles Amoureuses,” or “Loving Swallows,” circa 1905-1906, is the No. 2 sale lot.
The Japonisme-inspired piece was also purchased from one of Lalique’s descendants in 1979 and showcases the designer’s fondness for the swallow design, which symbolized the return of springtime, renewal, energy, and freedom.
Another highlight showcasing the influence of nature is a tiara adorned with glass pansies alternating with diamond-studded green enamel foliage designs.
Sotheby’s said a note from Sorbac helps explain why the piece is so special: “In the language of flowers, when a man gives pansies to a woman, he is thinking about her. A husband or lover who gave this headband to his sweetheart was therefore expressing a message of tenderness, affection, and faithfulness. The woman who proudly wore it was laying claim to the same feelings and associations.”
Showing Lalique’s connection to the art world is a pendant-necklace in gold and enamel depicting the profile of actress Sarah Bernhardt, who was one of his muses and patrons and who wore his designs on stage and in real life.
Meanwhile, a stunning collar embroidered in leather, decorated with enamel cockerels, and studded with glass mulberries designed for Bernhardt’s role in the play “Chantecler” is also in the auction. It has a cape buckle in the shape of two sparring Chanticleers, or roosters, and a cabochon citrine at the clasp.
To see all 39 lots in Friday’s sale, visit Sotheby’s.com.
More on Auctions
The Latest
EditorsNov 07, 2025
Piece of the Week: An MVP’s Sapphire Tennis Necklace At the 2025 World Series, the Los Angeles Dodgers’ Yoshinobu Yamamoto sported a custom necklace made by California retailer Happy Jewelers.
IndependentsNov 07, 2025
Foundrae’s New Palm Beach Location Is a ‘Golden Solarium’The brand’s seventh location combines Foundrae’s symbolic vocabulary with motifs from Florida’s natural surroundings.
FinancialsNov 07, 2025
Watches of Switzerland’s H1 Sales Up 8%The retailer also shared an update on the impact of tariffs on watch customers.
Brought to you by
Jewelers of America Aligns New Mission to Create Meaningful Impact for MembersFrom educational programs, advocacy, and recent MJSA affiliation, Jewelers of America drives progress that elevates businesses of all sizes.
SourcingNov 06, 2025
Pink Tourmaline Bracelet, Emerald Suite Take Top Spectrum Honors Pink and purple stones were popular in the AGTA’s design competition this year, as were cameos and ocean themes.
Weekly QuizNov 06, 2025
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
IndependentsNov 06, 2025
Greenwich St. Jewelers Hosts Raffle Supporting Food RescueAll proceeds from the G. St x Jewel Boxing raffle will go to City Harvest, which works to end hunger in New York City.
IndependentsNov 06, 2025
Cornell’s Jewelers Names New PresidentCourtney Cornell is part of the third generation to lead the Rochester, New York-based jeweler.
SourcingNov 06, 2025
De Beers’ Production, Sales Increase in Q3 De Beers also announced more changes in its upper ranks ahead of parent company Anglo American’s pending sale of the company.
WatchesNov 05, 2025
Shinola President Steps Down Just as He Starts Former Signet CEO Mark Light will remain president of Shinola until a replacement for Ulrich Wohn is found.
FinancialsNov 05, 2025
Pandora Posts Modest Q3 Sales Growth Amid ‘Weak’ Consumer Sentiment The company focused on marketing in the third quarter and introduced two new charm collections, “Pandora Talisman” and “Pandora Minis.”
FinancialsNov 05, 2025
Brilliant Earth’s Q3 Sales Climb 10%The jewelry retailer raised its full-year guidance, with CFO Jeff Kuo describing the company as “very well positioned” for the holidays.
Policies & IssuesNov 04, 2025
Supreme Court to Hear Tariffs Case WednesdayAhead of the hearing, two industry organizations co-signed an amicus brief urging the court to declare Trump’s tariffs unlawful.
MajorsNov 04, 2025
Danny Clark to Become Stuller CEO, Succeeding Matt StullerStuller COO Belit Myers will take on the additional role of president, with all changes effective at the start of 2026.
ColumnistsNov 04, 2025
Peter Smith: What Do Birds Have to Do With the Price of Gold? Smith cautions retailers against expending too much energy on things they can’t control, like the rising price of gold.
TrendsNov 04, 2025
Amanda’s Style File: Fall Colors for November BirthdaysCitrine and topaz are birthstones fit for fall as the leaves change color and the holiday season approaches.
IndependentsNov 04, 2025
Weston Jewelers Heads to Fort LauderdaleThe family-owned jeweler will open its fourth store in Florida in late 2027.
CrimeNov 03, 2025
Men Dressed as Construction Workers Burglarize Jeweler’s Home The NYPD is looking for three men who stole a safe and jewelry valued at $3.2 million from the home of a jeweler in Jamaica Hills, Queens.
MajorsNov 03, 2025
Matthew Rosenheim Takes Over as JA Board ChairThe trade organization also announced its executive committee and five new directors.
CollectionsNov 03, 2025
Muse’s ‘Have a Heart’ Collab Returns, Now With DDGThe “Have a Heart x Diamonds Do Good” collection is championed by model and humanitarian Flaviana Matata and will benefit her foundation.
TrendsOct 31, 2025
Piece of the Week: A Spinner Fit for ‘Frankenstein’This “Mother Father” spinner necklace from Heavenly Vices Fine Jewelry draws inspiration from Victorian Era jewelry.
CrimeOct 31, 2025
5 More Arrested in Louvre Heist, Jewelry Still Missing The suspects were rounded up in Paris and its suburbs on Wednesday night, but none of the stolen jewels were recovered with them.
Recorded WebinarsOct 31, 2025
Watch: How to Master Google Reviews for Your BusinessExperts share top tips on how to encourage positive reviews and handle negative feedback.
Supplier BulletinOct 30, 2025
Protect Your Customers and Your BusinessSponsored by the Gemological Institute of America
CrimeOct 30, 2025
29-Year-Old Man Charged in Multiple Seattle-Area Smash and Grabs The suspect faces charges in the August robbery of Menashe & Sons Jewelers and is accused of committing smash and grabs at two pawn shops.
Lab-GrownOct 30, 2025
Alison Lou’s New Collection Uses Lab-Grown Diamonds and ResinThe “Lumière Fine” collection was born from designer Alison Chemla’s interest in the transformative power of light.
TrendsOct 30, 2025
Amanda’s Style File: A Haunted HalloweenShow off your spooky side with these 12 festive jewels.
