Auctions

These Tiaras May Have Belonged to Empress Joséphine Bonaparte

AuctionsNov 04, 2021

These Tiaras May Have Belonged to Empress Joséphine Bonaparte

Sotheby’s will auction them next month at its “London Treasures” sale.

20211104_SothebysLondon-EmpressJosephineTiara-1.jpg
A carnelian, enamel, and gold diadem believed to have belonged to Empress Joséphine Bonaparte, circa 1808
London—Two tiaras believed to have belonged to Empress Joséphine Bonaparte are headlining Sotheby’s London Treasures sale next month.

Widely known by the surname associated with her first marriage, Joséphine de Beauharnais (1763-1814) married second husband Napoléon Bonaparte (1769-1821) in 1796.

In 1804, Napoléon became emperor of France, making Joséphine the empress.

The two tiaras hitting the auction block offer important historical context to Napoléon’s reign.

They are part of parures, or matching sets of jewelry, circa 1808. Sotheby’s explained in a statement that they embody the Neoclassical style that was all the rage at the time.

Napoléon favored ancient Roman motifs in a bid to legitimize his rule after the French Revolution, lending it a leader’s gravitas and legitimacy. Even his coronation crown featured several ancient portrait cameos.

20211104_SothebysLondon-EmpressJosephineTiara-2.jpg
A hair comb, pendant earrings, and belt ornament accompany the matching gold, enamel and carnelian tiara pictured at top of article in the Sotheby’s London sale.

Joséphine followed suit with her clothes and jewels, referencing antiquity to align with her husband’s message of stateliness. 

The two tiaras feature gemstones engraved with classical heads, some of which could be ancient, Sotheby’s ventured. They were believed to lend the wearer their representative qualities, like herosim, faithfulness, and love.

 Related stories will be right here … 

They’ve remained in the same U.K. private collection for at least 150 years, and still have their original Parisian leather boxes.

Adding to the legitimacy of their provenance is a similar parure in the collection of the Swedish royal family that is known to have originated with Joséphine’s son from her first marriage, Eugène Rose de Beauharnais, Duke of Leuchtenberg.

His daughter, Joséphine of Leuchtenberg, married future King Oscar I of Sweden in 1823, bringing several family jewels with her.

One tiara (pictured at top of article) is made of gold with blue champleve enamel, with 25 carnelian intaglios depicting male and female classical heads.

It is offered with its entire set (above), including a pair of pendant earrings, each set with a single intaglio; a hair comb; and belt ornament featuring carnelian cameo of Roman god Bacchus.

The lot is expected to fetch between £200,000 and £300,000, or approximately $270,000 to $406,000, per current exchange rates.

20211104_SothebysLondon-EmpressJosephineTiara-3.jpg
A tiara by Jacques-Amboise Oliveras, circa 1808, believed to have belonged to Empress Joséphine

The second tiara is also rendered in gold with blue enamel and five distinct cameos. The piece and its accompanying jewels are credited to Jacques-Amboise Oliveras. 

The five oval-shaped hardstone cameos depict Zeus; Dionysus, possibly from the 18th century; Medusa; Pan; and Gaia, possibly from the 16th century. 

It comes with matching belt clasp set with an agate cameo of Medusa, likely from the late 18th century; and a belt ornament with a hardstone cameo of Zeus, likely made between 1780 and 1800. All are in their original cases.

The lot is expected to fetch between £100,000 and £200,000, or approximately $135,000 to $270,000, per current exchange rates.

Joséphine and Napoléon were connoisseurs when it came to ancient art.

Sotheby’s said that gem engraving was considered a noble art in antiquity, so Napoléon continued the tradition. 

The couple had many cameos rendered in their likeness, incorporating Roman motifs like laurel leaves. Napoléon even founded a school in Paris to teach engraving technique.

Joséphine was also a patron of the arts and a lover of fashion and jewelry, spending more than 25 million francs in the latter two categories in six years. 

She owned a collection of antiquities, and was knowledgeable about various hardstones, distinguishing among them. She was also knowledgeable on engraving techniques and the mythological gods and Roman emperors and empresses depicted.

“The jewels demonstrate the finest delicate work by the finest French workshops, and, today, there are hardly any comparable pieces in the world. When fashions changed, jewelry was broken up and remodeled, making their survival a truly exceptional one.” 
— Kristian Spofforth, Sotheby’s

Joséphine was in the practice of selecting cameos from her collection to be transformed into jewelry and affixed to her clothing.

This all guided popular taste away from the lavish Rococo era associated with Marie Antoinette to a more simple and regal Neoclassical style.

Additional jewelry believed to belong to Joséphine and featuring cameos will also be for sale at Sotheby’s London.

“These majestic jewels mounted with cameos and intaglios certainly evoke the style of the grand Empress Joséphine—her rank as wife of Napoléon Bonaparte, her impeccable taste, and her interest in the classical world,” said Sotheby’s London’s Head of Jewelry Kristian Spofforth.

“Empress Joséphine was much more than just a collector of antiquities. By being the first to incorporate these cameos and intaglios into her dress, wearing them side by side with pearls and diamonds, she created an entire new fashion that swept Paris and the world, based on Neoclassical forms. The jewels offered here demonstrate the finest delicate work by the finest French workshops, and, today, there are hardly any comparable pieces in the world. When fashions changed, jewelry was broken up and remodeled, making their survival a truly exceptional one.”

While the jewelry legacy of their marriage lives on, Joséphine and Napoléon were only married for 14 years. Their marriage was annulled in 1810 as Joséphine did not produce an heir.

According to various accounts, the two remained on amicable terms until Joséphine’s death in 1814. Napoléon’s second wife, Marie-Louise of Austria, produced his desired male heir, Napoléon II.

The London Treasures sale is scheduled for Dec. 7. 

The Latest

Sylvie Jewelry Auranova Collection Campaign Imagery
CollectionsApr 25, 2025
Sylvie Looks to Water in New Sculptural Bridal Collection

“Shell Auranova” is the next generation of the brand’s bridal line, featuring half-bezel engagement rings with bold and fluid designs.

Pomellato Nudo toi et moi ring
FinancialsApr 25, 2025
Kering’s Jewelry Brands Persevere as Q1 Sales Sink 14%

Boucheron and Pomellato performed well in an otherwise bleak quarter for Kering amid struggles at Gucci.

Deborah Meyers Experience The Birds Earrings
EditorsApr 25, 2025
Piece of the Week: Deborah Meyers Experience’s ‘The Birds’ Earrings

Designer Deborah Meyers created her birds from oxidized sterling silver, rose-cut diamond eyes, and Akoya Keshi pearl feathers.

ejap cohort 1872x1052.png
Brought to you by
Emerging Jewelers Accelerator Program Announces Second Cohort of Aspiring Jewelry Entrepreneurs

Six new retail businesses were selected for the 2025 program, which began in January.

Melee diamonds from De Beers
SourcingApr 25, 2025
De Beers Sales, Production Fall in Q1 Amid Uncertainty

The company said it expects sightholders to remain “cautious” with their purchasing due to all the unknowns around the U.S. tariffs.

Weekly QuizApr 24, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
LIM-401 2024 National Jeweler Supplier Bulletin- iD100 Web and Eblast FINAL (1).jpg
Supplier BulletinApr 24, 2025
Protect Your Customers and Your Business

Sponsored by the Gemological Institute of America

Wolf CEO Simon Wolf
EditorsApr 24, 2025
Q&A: Wolf’s CEO Talks U.S. Expansion

Simon Wolf shares why the time was right to open a new office here, what he looks for in a retail partner, and why he loves U.S. consumers.

gia1d100 btyb.jpg
Brought to you by
Protect Your Customers and Your Business

The risk of laboratory-grown diamonds being falsely presented as natural diamonds presents a very significant danger to consumer trust.

Iowa jeweler Herman Ginsberg
IndependentsApr 24, 2025
Longtime Iowa Jeweler Herman Ginsberg Dies at 99

A third-generation jeweler, Ginsberg worked at his family’s store, Ginsberg Jewelers, from 1948 until his retirement in 2019.

Charles & Colvard moissanite ring
FinancialsApr 24, 2025
Charles & Colvard Delisted From Nasdaq Due to Noncompliance

The company failed to file its quarterly reports in a timely manner.

Young Diamantaires
SourcingApr 24, 2025
Young Diamantaires Transition to Nonprofit

The organization also announced its board of directors.

Mined + Found "Hope" Matchbox Locket
TrendsApr 24, 2025
Amanda’s Style File: So Charming

Charms may be tiny but with their small size comes endless layering possibilities, from bracelets to necklaces and earrings.

Bulgari’s expanded factory in Valenza, Italy
MajorsApr 23, 2025
Bulgari Doubles Size of Jewelry Factory in Italy

Located in Valenza, the now 355,000-square-foot facility includes a new jewelry school that’s open to the public, Scuola Bulgari.

Jason McNary accepting FGI Fine Jewelry Rising Star award for Paola Sasplugas
Events & AwardsApr 23, 2025
PDPaola Creative Director Wins FGI’s ‘Rising Star’ Award

Paola Sasplugas, co-founder of the Barcelona-based jewelry brand, received the Fine Jewelry Award.

Carmelo Anthony and Jaylen Brown David Yurman campaign
MajorsApr 23, 2025
David Yurman’s New Campaign Stars Carmelo Anthony, Jaylen Brown

The basketball stars wear men’s jewelry from the “Curb Chain” collection.

Woman wearing Zales jewelry
MajorsApr 22, 2025
Zales’ Rebrand Takes Playful Approach to Fine Jewelry

The Signet Jewelers-owned retailer wants to encourage younger shoppers to wear fine jewelry every day, not just on special occasions.

National Jeweler columnist Lilian Raji
ColumnistsApr 22, 2025
The PR Adviser: Building Buzz Through Word of Mouth

Lilian Raji answers a question from a reader who is looking to grow her jewelry business but has a limited marketing budget.

Avi Levy
GradingApr 22, 2025
Avi Levy Is GCAL By Sarine’s New Chief Growth Officer

GCAL by Sarine created the new role to sharpen the company’s focus on strategic partnerships and scalable expansion.

Scottsdale Fine Jewelers store exterior
IndependentsApr 22, 2025
Brinker’s Jewelers Acquires Fellow Independent

The Indiana jeweler has acquired Scottsdale Fine Jewelers in Scottsdale, Arizona.

Cartier Exhibition Installation at Victoria & Albert Museum
Events & AwardsApr 21, 2025
An Exhibition Exploring the History of Cartier Is Now on Display

“Cartier: Design, Craft, and Legacy” opened earlier this month at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London.

Bill and Birdie Levine of Van Cott Jewelers
IndependentsApr 21, 2025
New York Jeweler to Close After 111 Years

Van Cott Jewelers in Vestal, New York, is hosting a going-out-of-business sale.

IJO Director Samantha Larson
IndependentsApr 21, 2025
IJO Names New Director of Vendor Relations, Merchandise Strategy

Industry veteran Samantha Larson has held leadership roles at Borsheims, McTeigue & McClelland, Stuller, and Long’s Jewelers.

Events & AwardsApr 21, 2025
Jewelers of Louisiana, Mississippi Jewelers Association to Co-Host Convention

The two organizations will hold the educational event together this fall in Mississippi.

Daymond John
Events & AwardsApr 18, 2025
Daymond John to Give Keynote at JCK Las Vegas

The entrepreneur and “Shark Tank” star will share his top tips for success.

Dukachi Easter Bread Pendant
CollectionsApr 18, 2025
Piece of the Week: Dukachi’s ‘Easter Bread’ Pendant

The Ukrainian brand’s new pendant is modeled after a traditional paska, a pastry often baked for Easter in Eastern European cultures.

Bremer Jewelry
IndependentsApr 18, 2025
Bremer Jewelry to Reveal Renovated Store

The jeweler has announced a grand reopening for its recently remodeled location in Peoria, Illinois.

Tiffany & Co. Strong Like Mom campaign
MajorsApr 18, 2025
Tiffany & Co. Employees Star in Mother’s Day Campaign

The “Strong Like Mom” campaign features moms who work at Tiffany & Co. and their children.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy