SurveysAug 21, 2026
These Are 2026’s Hottest Retailers, Says NRFThe retailers at the top of the list offer affordable products and fun, discovery-fueled experiences.
MajorsOct 11, 2018
Saks Files $55M Countersuit in Cartier Case
The department store hit back at the luxury jewelry brand in the conflict stemming from the former’s New York City flagship renovation.
Pictured here is the recently redone jewelry department at Saks Fifth Avenue’s New York City flagship store. The store’s renovation is at the heart of a conflict between the department store chain and Cartier.
New York—The legal conflict between Cartier and Saks Fifth Avenue just got more interesting.
Saks Fifth Avenue responded to Cartier’s $44 million lawsuit filed in New York State Supreme Court last week with a multimillion-dollar suit of its own.
On Oct. 5, the department store chain filed a countersuit in New York State Supreme Court, asking for $55 million and for Cartier to vacate its Fifth Avenue New York City flagship.
The conflict stems from Saks’ renovation of that store.
Saks proposed a new location for the Cartier shop-in-shop amid the overhaul, which the jewelry brand objected to, asserting in a statement that it did “not align with the Maison’s positioning and image standards.”
According to Cartier, Saks terminated its five-year lease agreement with the Richemont-owned jewelry brand amid the renovation row, which is when the latter took the matter to court.
In Saks’ countersuit, however, the retailer alleges that it didn’t have a lease with Cartier but, rather, a five-year concession agreement, though it did admit that the agreement between the companies stated that changes in the location of Cartier wouldn’t be made without written consent from both parties.
Saks noted, however, that the agreement contains a provision that allows either party to terminate the agreement if Saks’ “matrix, business model and/or Saks Fifth Avenue brand perception were to materially change.”
The Hudson’s Bay Co.-owned department store chain said that its $250 million+ flagship overhaul constitutes just such a shift, as it is “changing from a product distribution model to a model focused on creating a customer experience at the store focused on dominant category presentations that become destinations.”
It also noted in the countersuit that it is changing the matrix, or mix, of brands.
Unlike the traditional department store model that Saks has employed since its founding in 1924, the renovation saw its beauty department move from the ground floor to the second floor, in a move that allows it to include spa and treatment rooms, and beauty services.
It also launched a revamped jewelry department on the second floor, fittingly called “Jewelry on 2,” that is home to designers like Amali, David Webb, David Yurman, Gurhan, Ippolita, John Hardy, Marco Bicego, Mikimoto, Roberto Coin, Temple St. Clair and Zoë Chicco.
Saks now aims to move leather goods to the ground floor and high-end jewelers like Cartier to the basement level, in a “chic, extravagant space,”
Editors' Picks
Sponsored by
dubbed “The Vault,” which will be “the perfect environment for clients pursuing large transactions,” it said.
The retailer noted that Chopard, Graff and Chanel will be among the jewelers taking up residence in The Vault.
“Saks therefore envisioned all of its highest-end jewelers moving to The Vault to provide a more private, secure location for making very expensive purchases,” the countersuit states. “This transformation was based upon experience showing that the customer prefers not to make purchase decisions in the tens of thousands of dollars in the same place that other customers are shopping for lipsticks.”
Saks alleges that Cartier refused a prime location in The Vault or even other spots on the store’s ground level.
The retailer said it plans to unveil its new ground floor in time for the next New York Fashion Week, occurring in February 2019, stating that “any delay in turnover of the Cartier concession for demolition and construction would make it impossible for Saks to meet the immovable deadline created by the Fashion Week schedule.”
The retailer noted that Chopard, Graff and Chanel will be among the jewelers taking up residence in The Vault.
“Saks therefore envisioned all of its highest-end jewelers moving to The Vault to provide a more private, secure location for making very expensive purchases,” the countersuit states. “This transformation was based upon experience showing that the customer prefers not to make purchase decisions in the tens of thousands of dollars in the same place that other customers are shopping for lipsticks.”
Saks alleges that Cartier refused a prime location in The Vault or even other spots on the store’s ground level.
The retailer said it plans to unveil its new ground floor in time for the next New York Fashion Week, occurring in February 2019, stating that “any delay in turnover of the Cartier concession for demolition and construction would make it impossible for Saks to meet the immovable deadline created by the Fashion Week schedule.”
More on Majors
The Latest
WatchesAug 21, 2026
Bremont Names Former Vacheron Constantin Exec CMODaniel Bing was formerly the marketing director for the Americas at Vacheron Constantin.
CollectionsAug 21, 2026
Bijules, Kamyen Serve Up ‘Topspin’ Tennis Bracelet Ahead of US OpenIn our Piece of the Week, the designers reimagine the tennis bracelet with green enamel wrapped around a strand of “Desert Diamonds.”
Brought to you by
Your Piece Could Be the One Editors Talk AboutSubmit your pieces for a chance to win in this year's competition.
PodcastsAug 20, 2026
Episode 8: Diamond Industry Update With David Bonaparte & Ronnie VanderLindenThe industry veterans join the podcast to discuss diamond marketing, the FTC Jewelry Guides, and lobbying for lower tariffs.
Weekly QuizAug 20, 2026
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
TechnologyAug 20, 2026
A New AI-Powered Gemstone Identification App Is HereFounder Vik Westermann said the app is a “starting point” to inspire people to work with appraisers and gem labs, not replace them.
AuctionsAug 20, 2026
Storied Unicorn Brooch Up for Auction Gallops to New Home The Verdura brooch, which belonged to the late Virginia Fortune Ryan Ogilvy, was sold to a private collector in Asia.
Brought to you by
Why More Jewelry Retailers Are Hosting Turnkey Estate Buying EventsRetailers are seeking new ways to attract customers, increase traffic, and create revenue – Estate buying events are a popular solution.
Events & AwardsAug 20, 2026
MJSA Education Foundation Names 5 Scholarship WinnersThe five students were awarded a total of $10,000 through the nonprofit’s 2026 “Future of Jewelry Making” scholarship.
Policies & IssuesAug 19, 2026
Spinelli Kilcollin Embraces Dupes With Trade-In ProgramThe jeweler is encouraging customers who own lookalike rings to come into the store and trade them for credit towards an authentic piece.
MajorsAug 19, 2026
Zales Wants You to Wear Fine Jewelry Every DayThe new campaign, “You Are The Occasion,” discourages shoppers from saving their fine jewelry for special occasions only.
SourcingAug 19, 2026
Vasant Mehta, a Dedicated Diamond Industry Leader, Dies at 81Mehta led India’s GJEPC through the 2008 financial crisis and was respected worldwide for his wisdom, integrity, and knowledge.
CrimeAug 18, 2026
2 California Men Arrested in Fatal Vehicle Smash RobberyOne is the driver who allegedly crashed a car into a Sacramento jewelry store in April, striking a 71-year-old employee who later died.
ColumnistsAug 18, 2026
Peter Smith: The IKEA Effect and Bridal Branding In a new column, Peter Smith posits that people actually enjoy putting together IKEA furniture, and the same is true for engagement rings.
CrimeAug 18, 2026
Thieves Snatch $1M in Jewelry From New Jersey Jeweler9lakha Jewelers in Iselin, New Jersey, was the target of a smash-and-grab robbery on Aug. 8.
Lab-GrownAug 18, 2026
Ring Concierge, Kendall Jenner’s Tequila Brand Collab on GiveawayThe jeweler has partnered with 818 Tequila to gift lab-grown diamond studs to a bride-to-be and their bridal party.
Events & AwardsAug 17, 2026
Exhibition on Louis Comfort Tiffany’s Studios to Open at The MetThe exhibition will feature more than 100 drawings of stained-glass lampshades, windows, and more, many created by women and émigrés.
CollectionsAug 17, 2026
Marquise Diamonds Dance in Spinelli Kilcollin’s ‘Wren’ CollectionMarquise-cut diamonds in drop charms are the center of the new collection, reflecting the movement of a dancer in modular styles.
Events & AwardsAug 17, 2026
There’s a New Jewelry Show Coming to FloridaThe inaugural Fort Lauderdale Jewelry, Antique, & Object Show will be held from Jan. 28 through Feb. 1, 2027.
IndependentsAug 14, 2026
Smyth Jewelers to Open Fourth LocationThe family-owned jeweler will open a new showroom in Bel Air, Maryland, this fall.
CrimeAug 14, 2026
Wife of Man Convicted in Jeweler’s Murder Sentenced for Conspiracy Amanda Ileana Hernandez is married to Carlos Hernandez, one of two men in prison for the 2024 murder of Michigan jeweler Hussein Murray.
TrendsAug 14, 2026
Paul Morelli’s Latest ‘Wavey Vine’ Earrings Embrace ColorThe reimagined jewel, our Piece of the Week, trades the diamonds in the original 1998 design for blue, pink, yellow, and green sapphires.
Supplier BulletinAug 13, 2026
Your Piece Could Be the One Editors Talk AboutSponsored by American Gem Trade Association
FinancialsAug 13, 2026
Pandora’s ‘Talisman’ Collection Shines, Lab-Grown Diamond Sales FallIn the United States, second-quarter sales were flat amid soft consumer sentiment and lower in-store traffic.
AuctionsAug 13, 2026
This Gold Cadbury ‘Conundrum’ Egg Set a World Auction RecordThe 22-karat gold egg, sold at Batemans Auctioneers in the U.K., was part of a 1980s treasure hunt ad campaign for Cadbury Creme Eggs.
SourcingAug 13, 2026
2,488-Carat Diamond, Largest Found in Botswana, Has a New Owner Lucara Diamond Corp., which recovered the “Motswedi” diamond from the Karowe mine, sold the stone for an undisclosed amount.
CollectionsAug 13, 2026
John Hardy Infuses ‘Icon,’ ‘Heishi’ Collections with ColorThe expanded collections now feature hand-cut gemstones like topaz, tanzanite, chrysoprase, chalcedony, smoky quartz, and fire opal.
