ColumnistsJan 22, 2025
On Data: How Did Independent Jewelers Fare in 2024? Sherry Smith shares data on the year gone by, including the breakdown between natural and lab-grown diamond sales.
GradingMar 28, 2016
De Beers launches high-volume melee testing
De Beers now is using its automated melee screener at its International Institute of Diamond Grading & Research facility in Surat, and plans to launch the service at the IIDGR lab in Antwerp next month.
London--
De Beers has begun using its new automated melee screening device at its International Institute of Diamond Grading & Research facility in Surat, and plans to begin offering the same at the IIDGR lab in Antwerp next month.
The device automatically feeds the stones, table-down, into a testing station. After testing, the diamonds are dispensed into one of five bins: pass, refer (more testing is needed), refer Type II (more testing needed, higher likelihood of being synthetic), non-diamond (simulant) or purge (for diamonds that were erroneously loaded into the machine).
They then are returned in a sealed IIDGR package that De Beers said is tamper-proof.
The potential mixing of less-expensive lab-grown diamonds with natural, or mined, diamonds is of growing concern in the industry as diamond growers up production levels and improve quality. Melee is particularly problematic because it often slips through the supply chain untested due to the fact that there aren’t many cost-effective and efficient ways of checking these tiny stones.
In order to combat the problem, De Beers introduced an automated melee screener in January 2014, shortly after the Gemological Institute of America unveiled the DiamondCheck, which also can separate lab-grown melee from mined, starting with diamonds that are as small as one point.
De Beers initially said it would be leasing out the devices to sightholders beginning in the second quarter 2014 and installing multiple machines at the IIDGR in Antwerp later that same year. (The IIDGR in Surat was not yet open at that time.)
David Johnson, a De Beers spokesperson, said that total of five pre-production prototype automated melee screening devices have been in use in Antwerp for two years, as the IIDGR has been testing their durability and accuracy.
The beginning of the service this week marks the transition from testing to widespread use mode for the machine, which IIDGR President Jonathan Kendall said in a statement will “play an important role in supporting both trade and consumer confidence.”
“Sellers will be able to provide potential buyers with pre-checked goods in sealed IIDGR packages, removing any potential concerns around disclosure,” he said.
De Beers began using the automated melee screener, along with other proprietary instruments, at the IIDGR lab in Surat on Wednesday. The facility has a room specifically designed for melee testing.
Melee testing is set to begin Nov. 12 at the IIDGR lab in Antwerp, which also has a room outfitted specifically for melee.
The service will be offered at an introductory discount of 50 percent off in both India and Belgium through the end of the year. For more information, email testing@iidgr.com or visit IIDGR.com.
As for sightholders, De Beers ended up selling, not leasing, them the automated melee screeners.
Large manufacturers including Kiran Gems, Tasaki, Rosy Blue and Stuller have acquired the devices, playing $55,000 plus a three-year support and maintenance charge of $10,000 a year.
More on Grading
The Latest
Policies & IssuesJan 22, 2025
Jewelers Mutual Steps Up Aid for LA Jewelry BusinessesThe company also is matching donations made to Jewelers of America and the Diamond Council of America’s Jewelers Relief Fund.
Events & AwardsJan 22, 2025
JA Seeking Nominations for Its Next ‘20 Under 40’ ClassNow in its fourth year, the program is expanding to include a list of “20 Under 40” for jewelry suppliers.
Brought to you by
3 New Year’s Resolutions for Jewelry Lovers The new year feels like a clean slate, inspiring reflection, hope, and the motivation to become better versions of ourselves.
SurveysJan 22, 2025
Holiday Sales Hit Record High, Says NRFCore retail sales during the 2024 holiday season surpassed the National Retail Federation’s forecast.
Weekly QuizJan 16, 2025
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
CollectionsJan 22, 2025
Foundrae’s New Collection Channels the Power of NowThe “Reach for Life” collection uses feather and arrow motifs to invite growth and inner curiosity.
ColumnistsJan 21, 2025
Peter Smith: Sales Training’s Dirty Little SecretPeter Smith pulls back the curtain on the often misinterpreted, and sometimes maligned, world of sales training.
Brought to you by
A Diamond Is Forever Celebrates "Forever Present" Holiday CampaignA Diamond is Forever hosted a holiday celebration in honor of their new marketing campaign, ‘Forever Present.’
TrendsJan 21, 2025
Amanda’s Style File: Decadent Mocha MoussePantone’s 2025 Color of the Year takes the form of jewelry through gemstones and enamel that look just as delicious as mocha mousse.
Policies & IssuesJan 21, 2025
These Designers and Retailers Are Raising Money for LA Wildfire Relief From raffles to auctions to donations, the industry is working to aid charities in Los Angeles amid the raging wildfires.
SourcingJan 21, 2025
Diamonds Do Good Adds 2 Board MembersJulia Hackman Chafé and Monica Elias have joined the organization’s board of directors.
FinancialsJan 17, 2025
Richemont’s Jewelry Sales Rise 14% in Holiday QuarterThe company, which owns Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, had a record Q3, with sales topping $6 billion.
CollectionsJan 17, 2025
Piece of the Week: Picchiotti’s Transformable ‘Classic Blue and Green’ NecklaceThe necklace features a sapphire drop weighing more than 9 carats that detaches to transform into a ring.
MajorsJan 17, 2025
Tiffany & Co., CFDA Name First Winner of Jewelry Designer AwardJameel Mohammed, founder of Afrofuturist brand Khiry, will receive a cash prize and a one-year paid fellowship with Tiffany & Co.
IndependentsJan 16, 2025
Lux Bond & Green to Open Sixth LocationThe 127-year-old jeweler is planning to open a new store in Mystic, Connecticut.
WatchesJan 16, 2025
Timex Launches Collection of National Park WatchesThe watches’ dials feature artwork celebrating the vibrant energy and unique landscapes of six of America’s national parks.
AuctionsJan 16, 2025
Elizabeth Taylor’s Diamond Line Bracelet Going up for Auction Offered by U.K. auction house Woolley & Wallis, the yellow diamond bracelet was a gift from Taylor’s good friend Michael Jackson.
Events & AwardsJan 16, 2025
JCK Las Vegas 2025 Open for RegistrationThe jewelry trade show returns to The Venetian Expo and The Venetian Resort in Las Vegas from June 6 to 9.
EditorsJan 15, 2025
The Jewelry I’d Bid On in Christie’s Iris Apfel AuctionAssociate Editor Natalie Francisco highlights her favorite fashion jewelry pieces from the upcoming “Unapologetically Iris” auction.
MajorsJan 15, 2025
Macy’s to Close 66 Stores as Part of Turnaround StrategyThe closures are part of the retailer’s plan to close 150 locations over a three-year period.
Policies & IssuesJan 15, 2025
JVC Debuts Guide to Americans with Disabilities Act ComplianceThe online guide is available for free and written with the jewelry industry in mind.
Events & AwardsJan 15, 2025
Jose Hess Design Awards Open for SubmissionsThe awards honor the late Jose Hess, a founding member of AJDC and an award-winning jewelry designer.
ColumnistsJan 14, 2025
Jules Kim: Building Bridges Between Creators and IndustryIn this special op-ed, designer Jules Kim calls on big brands to collaborate with independent creators instead of copying their designs.
FinancialsJan 14, 2025
Signet Jewelers Lowers Q4 Guidance After Holiday Sales Fall ShortThe peak selling days leading up to Christmas did not meet the jewelry retailer’s expectations.
MajorsJan 14, 2025
Edouard Schneider Joins Messika as Chief Brand OfficerSchneider brings over 20 years of luxury and fashion industry experience to his role as a key member of the brand’s global leadership team.
SourcingJan 13, 2025
Zambia Reinstates 15% Export Duty on Precious Gemstones, Shocking GemfieldsGemfields said the Zambian government revoked the 2019 suspension of the tax with no warning.
TechnologyJan 13, 2025
Ultrahuman Unveils Luxury Smart RingWith versions in 18-karat gold and platinum, the wearables company is blending health technology and fine jewelry.
