SSEF Issues Warning on Refilled Emeralds
The lab is seeing emeralds with filler added post-testing enter the market, accompanied by reports that indicate little to no treatment.

The lab said it has noticed emeralds it previously had tested resurfacing on the market with filler added post-testing, offered for sale with the original report that indicates little or no clarity modification.
Because most emeralds contain microscopic fractures known as fissures, the use of colorless fillers such as oil, wax, or artificial resin that reduce the visibility of the inclusions is a widely accepted practice in the trade.
However, treatment directly affects an emerald’s value, the lab stated, and disclosure of treatments, including the amount of filler used, is mandatory under the Laboratory Manual Harmonisation Committee guidelines.
Because the high-end market favors stones treated with minimal amounts of oil, or with no clarity modification, many emeralds previously treated with artificial resin are being chemically cleaned with strong solvents to remove the filler, SSEF explained.
After being cleaned, emeralds that display prominent open fissures are submitted to gem labs for testing. Reports are likely to state that no or only minor clarity modification was evident at the time of testing.
The fissures are then being refilled with either with oil or artificial resin after the lab report has been issued and then presented to third parties with a report that states “no or minor clarity modification,” a practice that constitutes fraud, SSEF said.
The report in these cases is misleading, because it no longer reflects the emerald’s current condition.
For this reason, SSEF said it emphasizes on its reports that the document describes the condition of the stone at the time of testing and makes no guarantee about the condition of the stone at any later date.
If fissure filler is detected, SSEF discloses its presence, the amount of filler used, and the identity of the filler substance, such as oil, artificial resin, or wax.
The lab made several recommendations to the trade for emerald buying, adding that any SSEF report can be verified for authenticity and validity on its website.
The lab encouraged buyers to check if a fissured emerald was retested by SSEF before buying it, especially in cases where the report is not recent or the stone appears “visually unusually clean.”
SSEF also warned buyers to be cautious of a clean-looking emerald accompanied by a “no clarity modification” report and encouraged them to have it re-tested.
Sellers should never circulate a report once a stone has been cleaned, refilled or otherwise altered; instead, they should submit the stone for a new report reflecting its current state before they sell it.
SSEF also noted that cleaned or heavily fissured emeralds are fragile and prone to chipping and must be handled with care.
The same treatments and risks apply to any gemstone that contains fissures, the lab added, with rubies being a notable example.
Contact SSEF for retests, to reissue reports, or for questions on emerald treatment and disclosure.
The Latest

The California jeweler is renovating its store in Fresno, with plans to show off the new space in December.

A lifelong practitioner of Pilates, Gabrielle looked to the springs’ tension and suspension when creating this ring, our Piece of the Week.

The deadline to apply is Nov. 13.

Submit your pieces for a chance to win in this year's competition.

The auction house has promoted Remi Guillemin, formerly its head of watches for the Americas and EMEA, to the role.


Zaven Ghanimian discussed the value of human craftsmanship and where the implementation of artificial intelligence does work.

Jewelers of America also revealed the recipients of the Seymour & Evelyn Holtzman Bench Scholarship and its own scholarship programs.

Retailers are seeking new ways to attract customers, increase traffic, and create revenue – Estate buying events are a popular solution.

The British actor, known for his roles in “Twilight” and “The Odyssey,” will star in a campaign for the Master Control Chronometre.

The “Confetti Disco,” “Champagne Cheers,” “Tuxedo,” and “Classic Punk” jewelry collections each capture a distinct spirit of celebration.

Nelson Holdo of Newport Beach pleaded guilty to multiple counts of felony grand theft and writing bad checks and was sentenced Monday.

Cat ladies of the jewelry world, unite. Sandy Lerner’s “significant” collection of cat jewelry and other objects is going up for auction.

Arnaud Michon, the former Omega USA President, will now lead Messika’s Americas region during its international development.

The branding references the back-to-back jewelry shows that new parent company Forge will host in Miami's Coconut Grove this November.

The stainless steel Patek Philippe “Calatrava” watch from the 1930s sold for nearly $80,000 at a recent Hansons Cornwall auction.

Engagement rings are important but don’t ignore the customers who are buying jewelry “just because,” Emmanuel Raheb writes.

Former Pomellato CEO Sabina Belli has been named president of Kering Italia amid a shakeup of Kering's new Jewelry division.

The veteran luxury packaging executive was appointed to help the company grow its North American business.

Once the property of an Egyptian queen, the necklace was part of a larger exhibition of VCA jewelry at the Museum of Applied Arts (MAK).

“Chicago Collects: Jewelry in Perspective” at the Oshkosh Public Museum will feature works by Fabergé, Lalique, and Louis Comfort Tiffany.

The “Worn Well” collection is Catbird's take on classic men's jewelry.

This Buddha Mama butterfly is our Piece of the Week honoring the legend, who embraced the beautiful insect as her symbol.

The former De Beers CEO, and perhaps its next owner, will be a featured speaker at the event, slated for Sept. 4-7 in Italy.

The employee-owned jeweler was named a “Best Place to Work” in Maine, New Hampshire, and for women.

The second iteration of the jewelry collection was inspired by the zodiac and the four elements: earth, water, air and fire.

General License 104B supersedes General License 104A, which was set to expire on Sept. 1.

The package, intercepted in Indianapolis, contained fake Cartier, Tiffany & Co., and Van Cleef and Arpels jewelry.
























