Grading

GIA Finds Synthetic Ruby Layer on Natural Gemstones

GradingApr 02, 2018

GIA Finds Synthetic Ruby Layer on Natural Gemstones

Though a lab-grown layer is nothing new, the absence of one element suggests different growth methods.

20180402_Ruby-layer.jpg
In this picture, a portion of the near-colorless corundum seed is revealed in an area where the synthetic ruby overgrowth was cut away. Photo credit: Hollie McBride/GIA

Carlsbad, Calif.--The Gemological Institute of America’s New York lab recently had a gemstone submitted for identification it hasn’t seen before.

According to an article by Tyler Smith and Hollie McBride in the winter 2017 issue of “Gems & Gemology,” the lab received two loose oval mixed-cut red gems for identification. Upon testing, the stones revealed refractive indices slightly higher than normal for corundum.

Higher refractive indices have been reported before for chromium-diffused corundum, in which extra chromium is added during heating to enhance the color. So, the article states, to the naked eye, the stones simply appeared to be chromium diffused and displayed red color concentrations at the intersections of the facets.

But further microscopic examination revealed a thin layer, about 0.3 mm thick, of “synthetic overgrowth”—a layer of lab-grown ruby that gave the stone its color—with a natural, almost-colorless sapphire at the core.

The authors said the two stones looked similar to Lechleitner synthetic overgrowth emeralds, named for Johann Lechleitner, who pioneered the process of giving a near-colorless beryl seed its green color with a synthetic emerald overgrowth in 1960. (The GIA’s lab in Carlsbad, coincidentally, received a Lechleitner emerald for identification around the same time the rubies were submitted.)


A thin layer of synthetic ruby overgrowth with flux particles is distinct from the natural sapphire seed, which is visible in the upper right corner of the picture. Photo credit: Hollie McBride/GIA
Lechleitner also experimented with ruby overgrowth on both synthetic and natural corundum seeds.

While his specimens contained a number of elements, the two rubies submitted to the GIA were missing one—molybdenum—indicating there were different growth conditions present, according to the G&G article.

It noted that while this isn’t the first report of synthetic ruby overgrowth on natural sapphire seeds, it is the first time material featuring such aspects has been submitted to its New York and Carlsbad laboratories for identification.

“The resurfacing of these vintage overgrowth synthetics shows that once a material is in the trade, it is here to stay,” Smith and McBride said.

Brecken Branstratoris the senior editor, gemstones at National Jeweler, covering sourcing, pricing and other developments in the colored stone sector.

The Latest

Kendra Scott CEO Chris Blakeslee
MajorsJan 09, 2026
Kendra Scott Taps Activewear Exec as CEO

Chris Blakeslee has experience at Athleta and Alo Yoga. Kendra Scott will remain on board as executive chair and chief visionary officer.

Wrapped holiday present boxes
SurveysJan 09, 2026
U.S. Holiday Retail Sales Up 4%, Visa, Mastercard Say

The credit card companies’ surveys examined where consumers shopped, what they bought, and what they valued this holiday season.

Christie’s Kimberly Miller
AuctionsJan 09, 2026
Christie’s Names New Global Managing Director for Luxury

Kimberly Miller has been promoted to the role.

Recipients Collage 2025 - NJ (1872 x 1050 px) (1872 x 1052 px).png
Brought to you by
Impacting Tomorrow Today

How Jewelers of America’s 20 Under 40 are leading to ensure a brighter future for the jewelry industry.

Lionheart Serenity Opal Amulet Charm
CollectionsJan 09, 2026
Piece of the Week: Lionheart’s ‘Serenity’ Opal Charm

The “Serenity” charm set with 13 opals is a modern amulet offering protection, guidance, and intention, the brand said.

Weekly QuizJan 08, 2026
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Hannah Dodd and Claudia Jessie in Pandora Bridgerton campaign
CollectionsJan 08, 2026
Pandora’s New ‘Bridgerton’ Jewels Celebrate Bees, Bows, and Blooms

“Bridgerton” actresses Hannah Dodd and Claudia Jessie star in the brand’s “Rules to Love By” campaign.

Ana Khouri logo
Events & AwardsJan 08, 2026
Ana Khouri To Receive 2026 Gem Award for High Jewelry Excellence

Founded by jeweler and sculptor Ana Khouri, the brand is “expanding the boundaries of what high jewelry can be.”

roseco-catalog.png
Brought to you by
Roseco Releases New Full-Line Catalog

Roseco’s 704-page catalog showcases new lab-grown diamonds, findings, tools & more—available in print or interactive digital editions.

Stuller’s Color of the Year for 2026, “Signature Red”
TrendsJan 08, 2026
Stuller’s Color of the Year Is a Stark Contrast to Pantone’s White

The jewelry manufacturer and supplier is going with a fiery shade it says symbolizes power and transformation.

Gracie Abrams Chanel Coco Crush
CollectionsJan 08, 2026
Gracie Abrams To Front New Chanel Jewelry Campaign

The singer-songwriter will make her debut as the French luxury brand’s new ambassador in a campaign for its “Coco Crush” jewelry line.

Bobbi L. Avery, Jeffery Bolling, Britney Phillips, and Lindsay Salvo
MajorsJan 08, 2026
Diamond Council of America Names New Board Directors

The nonprofit’s new president and CEO, Annie Doresca, also began her role this month.

Headshot of National Jewler columnist Peter Smith
ColumnistsJan 07, 2026
Peter Smith: Physical Retail—The Beginning or the End?

As the shopping mall model evolves and online retail grows, Smith shares his predictions for the future of physical stores.

Pinar Hakim Rainbow Seahorse Pendant, Nue Fine Jewelry Irene Charm, Susannah King Venus Ring
Events & AwardsJan 07, 2026
Melee Adds 13 New Designers to NYC Show

The trade show is slated for Jan. 31-Feb. 2 at The Lighthouse in New York City's Chelsea neighborhood.

Akiva Gil garnet ring
TrendsJan 07, 2026
Amanda’s Style File: Go for Garnet

January’s birthstone comes in a rainbow of colors, from the traditional red to orange, purple, and green.

Diamonds Do Good 2025 Impact Report
SourcingJan 07, 2026
Diamonds Do Good Releases 2025 Impact Report

The annual report highlights how it supported communities in areas where natural diamonds are mined, crafted, and sold.

Police cars with lights on
CrimeJan 06, 2026
2 Jewelers Arrested After TraxNYC Diamond District Brawl

Footage of a fight breaking out in the NYC Diamond District was viewed millions of times on Instagram and Facebook.

Rio Grande xTool F2 Ultra Portable Laser Engraver Bundle
MajorsJan 06, 2026
Rio Grande Says These Are the Top Personalization Tools for 2026

The supplier has a curated list of must-have tools for jewelers doing in-house custom work this year.

Zales storefront
MajorsJan 06, 2026
Zales Tests Out A New Look

The Signet Jewelers-owned store, which turned 100 last year, calls its new concept stores “The Edit.”

Linda Coutu
MajorsJan 06, 2026
LeachGarner Appoints New Director of Sales

Linda Coutu is rejoining the precious metals provider as its director of sales.

AGA board 2026-2029
SourcingJan 06, 2026
AGA Announces 2026 Board

The governing board welcomed two new members, Claire Scragg and Susan Eisen.

Jenna Blake diamond Fan earrings
TrendsJan 05, 2026
Amanda’s Style File: New Year’s Edition

Sparkle with festive diamond jewelry as we celebrate the beginning of 2026.

Ben Nighthorse Campbell
IndependentsJan 05, 2026
Jeweler Ben Nighthorse Campbell Dies at 92

The master jeweler, Olympian, former senator, and Korean War veteran founded the brand Nighthorse Jewelry.

Jacquie Aiche Alien Heart Eye Inlay Necklace, Cicada Dragonfly Brooch, Harkness After the Rain Earrings
TrendsJan 05, 2026
Pinterest 2026 Trend Report: Brooches, Bold Gold, Cool Blue

In its annual report, Pinterest noted an increase in searches for brooches, heirloom jewelry, and ‘80s luxury.

Saks Fifth Avenue flagship window installation
MajorsJan 02, 2026
Marc Metrick Out as CEO of Saks Global

Executive Chairman Richard Baker will take over the role as rumors swirl that a bankruptcy filing is imminent for the troubled retailer.

Couture Retailer Liaison Jan Mohr
Events & AwardsJan 02, 2026
Jan Mohr, Couture’s ‘North Star,’ Dies at 71

Mohr had just retired in June after more than two decades as Couture’s retailer liaison.

Shekhar Shah Real Gems
SourcingJan 02, 2026
IDCA Elects New President, Board of Directors

Shekhar Shah of Real Gems Inc. will serve as president of the Indian Diamond & Colorstone Association in 2026.

Lalaounis good luck charm 2026
CollectionsJan 02, 2026
Lalaounis’ 2026 Good Luck Charm Speaks to Resilience

This year’s good luck charm features the mythical horse Pegasus, and is our first Piece of the Week of the new year.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy