AuctionsMay 15, 2025
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182-Carat Paraíba-Type Tourmaline Sells for $487K
Recovered in Mozambique, “The Kat Florence Lumina” was part of Bonhams’ Hong Kong jewelry auction held last week.
“The Kat Florence Lumina,” a nearly 182-carat Paraíba-type tourmaline, sold within its estimated range at Bonhams Hong Kong on Thursday.
Hong Kong—A rare 181.61-carat Paraíba-type tourmaline from Mozambique sold for HK$3.8 million, or approximately $487,000, at Bonhams’ recent Hong Kong Jewels and Jadeite auction.
The internally flawless, unheated and untreated gemstone has a greenish-blue hue and was expected to fetch between HK$3 million and HK$5 million, meaning it sold at the low end of its estimated range.
It was named “The Kat Florence Lumina” after jewelry designer Kat Florence, whose husband, gem hunter Don Kogen, recovered the original 830-carat rough crystal in 2003.
Kogen originally estimated the rough could yield a clean stone of about 300 carats but left it untouched until Florence encouraged him to revisit the crystal this year.
The initial result was a 315-carat gemstone that was later recut to improve its brilliance, resulting in a cushion-shaped gemstone with a weight of 181.61 carats.
It is one of the largest Paraíba-type tourmalines of its kind, according to Bonhams.
The loose stone was accompanied by reports from four gem labs.
An appendix letter from American Gemological Laboratories states, “This impressive Paraíba-type tourmaline possesses a lovely bluish-green color, superior cutting, and a very high clarity that enhances its transparency … The exceptionally large size of this stone is representative of the finest material that has ever been recovered from the African deposits.”
It also received a 95.4-point rating from Gübelin, categorizing it as “exceptional.” Only 1 to 3 percent of stones submitted for testing annually receive this rating, the auction house noted.
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The internally flawless, unheated and untreated gemstone has a greenish-blue hue and was expected to fetch between HK$3 million and HK$5 million, meaning it sold at the low end of its estimated range.
It was named “The Kat Florence Lumina” after jewelry designer Kat Florence, whose husband, gem hunter Don Kogen, recovered the original 830-carat rough crystal in 2003.
Kogen originally estimated the rough could yield a clean stone of about 300 carats but left it untouched until Florence encouraged him to revisit the crystal this year.
The initial result was a 315-carat gemstone that was later recut to improve its brilliance, resulting in a cushion-shaped gemstone with a weight of 181.61 carats.
It is one of the largest Paraíba-type tourmalines of its kind, according to Bonhams.
The loose stone was accompanied by reports from four gem labs.
An appendix letter from American Gemological Laboratories states, “This impressive Paraíba-type tourmaline possesses a lovely bluish-green color, superior cutting, and a very high clarity that enhances its transparency … The exceptionally large size of this stone is representative of the finest material that has ever been recovered from the African deposits.”
It also received a 95.4-point rating from Gübelin, categorizing it as “exceptional.” Only 1 to 3 percent of stones submitted for testing annually receive this rating, the auction house noted.
Bonhams’ 132-lot jewelry auction also included fancy colored diamonds and gemstones, as well as rubies, sapphires and emeralds from notable brands.
The top lot was a ring featuring a 1.08-carat internally flawless fancy vivid pink diamond that sold for HK$4.4 million, or approximately $568,000.
Also notable was the sale of a Cartier diamond and sapphire “Panthère” bracelet, which achieved HK$2 million, or approximately $260,000.
This fancy vivid pink diamond and diamond ring sold for more than $550,000.
A pair of Harry Winston diamond earrings with no-heat Burmese rubies weighing about 7 carats each. The earrings sold for HK$3.6 million ($463,000).
A Cartier diamond and sapphire “Panthère” bracelet, circa 2006, featuring panthers with sapphire spots, emerald eyes, and onyx noses
Crafted in platinum, the bracelet features two opposing panther heads, pavé-set throughout with brilliant-cut diamonds and what Bonhams noted as a “rare use” of buff-top sapphires instead of onyx for the cats’ spots.
The piece has a total diamond weight of 17.50 carats.
Stewart Young, Bonhams director of jewelry and head of jewelry for Asia, said the results reflected “continued strong demand for rare, colored diamonds and exceptional gemstones, notably bigger stones.”
He added, “The sale also demonstrated the enduring appeal for jewels from notable maisons. We saw a 100 percent success rate for all Cartier jewels presented in the sale, led by the rare Cartier diamond and sapphire ‘Panthère’ bracelet.”
More information about the sale can be found on Bonhams website.
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