CollectionsNov 13, 2023
Piece of the Week: Le Vian’s ‘Mare Azzurro’ EarringsCollectionsNov 17, 2023
Piece of the Week: A Verdura for Chanel Cuff From the ‘30s
Up for auction at Bonhams next month, the rare enamel and gem-set cuff is considered the star of the sale.
Next month, Bonhams New York will auction a rare gem-set “Maltese Cross” cuff attributed to Verdura for Chanel and owned by the first woman to achieve EGOT status, Helen Hayes MacArthur.
Next month, Bonhams New York will auction a rare gem-set “Maltese Cross” cuff attributed to Verdura for Chanel and owned by the first woman to achieve EGOT status, Helen Hayes MacArthur.
Fulco di Verdura met Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel in 1925 and came to work for her in 1927, originally as a textile designer.
After artfully redesigning a couple of pieces of jewelry Coco had received from ex-lovers, Verdura had a new job—designing jewelry for Chanel. It was a job he held for eight years before opening his open boutique in New York City in 1939.
His Maltese cross cuff in particular was a hit—Harper’s Bazaar described at the time as the “accessory choice for every outfit”—and became the hallmark of the Verdura brand.
Chanel stores sell costume versions of the Maltese Cross cuff to this day.
Fulco di Verdura met Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel in 1925 and came to work for her in 1927, originally as a textile designer.
After artfully redesigning a couple of pieces of jewelry Coco had received from ex-lovers, Verdura had a new job—designing jewelry for Chanel. It was a job he held for eight years before opening his open boutique in New York City in 1939.
His Maltese cross cuff in particular was a hit—Harper’s Bazaar described at the time as the “accessory choice for every outfit”—and became the hallmark of the Verdura brand.
Chanel stores sell costume versions of the Maltese Cross cuff to this day.
Another view of the gem-set and enamel Verdura for Chanel cuff that was owned by actress Helen Hayes MacArthur
MacArthur (center) is pictured wearing the cuff in this undated photo. (Photo credit: Getty Images)
This particular example is ivory-colored enamel over silver and features a sugarloaf amethyst surrounded by cabochon emeralds, and round- and oval-cut diamonds, rubies, and sapphires.
MacArthur received it as a gift from her husband in the 1930s.
Known as the “First Lady of American Theater,” MacArthur was a star of stage and screen whose career spanned eight decades; she made her theater debut as a young girl in 1905 and was on TV until the mid-1980s.
Her roles garnered her multiple Oscar and Tony awards, as well as a Primetime Emmy and a Grammy award for Best Spoken Word Album in 1977.
She died in 1993 at age 92.
Bonham said her cuff, which has remained in the same family the entire time, is coming to market for the first time. It is in its original box and is in “amazing condition,” the auction house said.
The Maltese Cross cuff is expected to sell for $125,000 to $225,000 when it goes up for auction at Bonhams’ Dec. 4 New York jewelry sale.
Caroline Morrissey, Bonhams director and head of jewelry in New York, called the cuff “the star of the sale.”
“It is an honor to bring such a rare piece with impeccable provenance to auction for the first time,” she said.
Events & AwardsNov 03, 2023
Piece of the Week: A Little Aloha 
TrendsOct 27, 2023
Piece of the Week: Cicada’s Witchy BroochMore on Collections
The Latest
MajorsMay 20, 2024
Studs Opens Luxury Piercing Pop-Up in NYC“Fancy Studs” will feature revamped branding and a new lab-grown diamond fine jewelry collection.
MajorsMay 20, 2024
Stuller Issues New Packaging & Display CatalogThe 2024-2025 edition features new colors and styles, as well as storytelling elements.
SourcingMay 20, 2024
State of the Diamond Industry: Botswana Beyond DiamondsFrom moringa to ecotourism in the Okavango Delta, the country and its leaders are exploring how Botswana can diversify its economy.
Brought to you by
Meet Gemology’s Next Generation Microscope: GIA® Gemolite® NXT Professional EditionGIA®’s most advanced microscope has new features to optimize greater precision and comfort.
SourcingMay 20, 2024
2 Business-to-Business Platforms Secure Millions in Funding Nivoda and Liquid Diamonds both have big plans for the new capital.
Weekly QuizMay 16, 2024
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these seven questions.
FinancialsMay 17, 2024
Richemont Appoints Van Cleef & Arpels’ Nicolas Bos as New CEOThe announcement coincided with its full-year results, with growth driven by its jewelry brands.
FinancialsMay 17, 2024
Watches of Switzerland’s Fiscal-Year Sales Flat Looking ahead, the retailer said it sees “enormous potential” in Roberto Coin’s ability to boost its branded jewelry business.
Brought to you by
Record Gold Prices Have Consumers Undeterred. Here’s Why.Despite the rising prices, consumers continue to seek out the precious metal.
Recorded WebinarsMay 17, 2024
Watch: Preparing for Trade Show SuccessJewelry trade show veterans share strategies for engaging buyers, managing your time effectively, and packing the right shoes.
AuctionsMay 17, 2024
Piece of the Week: Cartier’s Ring-Tailed LemurThis little guy’s name is Ricky and he just sold for more than $200,000 at Sotheby’s Geneva jewelry auction.
AuctionsMay 16, 2024
Christie’s Holds 2 Sales Despite CyberattackThough its website has been down for a week, Christie’s proceeded with its jewelry and watch auctions on May 13-14, bringing in nearly $80 million.
AuctionsMay 16, 2024
Sotheby’s Withdraws 101-Carat Yellow Diamond from AuctionDespite the absence of “The Allnatt,” Sotheby’s Geneva jewelry auction totaled $34 million, with 90 percent of lots sold.
ColumnistsMay 16, 2024
The PR Adviser: What the Designer Should’ve DoneLilian Raji gives advice to designers on how to make the most of great publicity opportunities.
SourcingMay 16, 2024
Lucapa to Shed Stake in Lesotho Diamond Mine The mining company wants to divest its 70 percent holding in the Mothae Diamond Mine in an effort to streamline its portfolio.
ColumnistsMay 15, 2024
Squirrel Spotting: Why Retailers Struggle to Fire BrandsWhy do so many jewelers keep lines that are not selling? Peter Smith thinks the answer lies in these two behavioral principles.
AuctionsMay 15, 2024
Red Diamond Breaks Records at Phillips GenevaThe “Argyle Phoenix” sold for more than $4 million at the auction house’s second jewels sale.
Events & AwardsMay 15, 2024
See Who’s in JA’s 2024 ‘20 Under 40’ ClassThe annual list recognizes young professionals making an impact in jewelry retail.
IndependentsMay 15, 2024
David Mann Jewelers in Upstate NY to Close After 35 YearsOwner David Mann is heading into retirement.
FinancialsMay 15, 2024
Brilliant Earth’s Sales Fall Flat in Q1 While overall sales were sluggish, the retailer said its non-bridal fine jewelry was a popular choice for Valentine’s Day.
SourcingMay 14, 2024
Anglo American Confirms It Is Looking to Sell De Beers The mining giant also wants to offload its platinum business as part of an overhaul designed to “unlock significant value.”
AuctionsMay 14, 2024
2 Huge Yellow Diamonds Are Heading to AuctionChristie's is selling one of the diamonds, moving forward with its Geneva jewelry auction despite the cyberattack that took down its website.
MajorsMay 14, 2024
Platinum Born Taps ‘Born Leaders’ for New CampaignThe ad aims to position platinum jewelry as ideal for everyday wear.
GradingMay 14, 2024
Instappraise Adds Trifold Brochure to Appraisal OfferingsRetailers can customize and print the appraisal brochures from their store.
Lab-GrownMay 13, 2024
Lab-Grown Diamond Brand Lightbox Cuts Prices by 25 to 40%The move follows a price-drop test run in Q4 and comes with the addition of a “quality assurance card” from GIA for some loose diamonds.
TechnologyMay 13, 2024
Christie’s Website Brought Down by Hackers, Watch Auction Postponed The site has been down since Thursday evening, just ahead of its spring auctions.
AuctionsMay 13, 2024
Madeleine Albright’s Jewelry, Pins a White-Glove Sale at Freeman’s | HindmanThe late former U.S. Secretary’s collection went for quadruple the sale’s pre-sale estimate.
IndependentsMay 13, 2024
Zachary’s Jewelers Names Mother’s Day Jewelry Contest WinnersThree fifth graders’ winning designs were turned into custom jewelry pieces in time for Mother’s Day.
