Majors

Why Standard Chartered Shut Down Its Diamond Unit

MajorsJun 15, 2016

Why Standard Chartered Shut Down Its Diamond Unit

The mid-stream sector of the diamond industry now “falls outside of the bank’s tightened risk tolerances,” the London-based lender said.

London--Standard Chartered Plc no longer will finance diamond traders and polishers after reevaluating its portfolio and determining there is too much risk for too little return in the sector.

The London-based bank began thoroughly reviewing all of its operations after CEO Bill Winters took over last year, looking to exit businesses generating low returns and/or that are vulnerable to large swings in loan impairment.

The trading and polishing sector of the diamond industry was certainly among those in Winters’ crosshairs, with the spike in defaults and bankruptcies last year--the bank was among those caught up in the massive Winsome Diamonds default--and the increased compliance reporting and regulatory capital costs associated with financing the industry.

In March, the London-based bank began to pull back, tightening its terms for lending to the diamond sector by asking dealers to provide more collateral or take out insurance protection on their loans.

Then, last week, JCKOnline.com broke the news that Standard Chartered would be exiting the diamond sector entirely.

In an official statement, the bank said that continuing to provide financing to diamond traders and polishers “falls outside of the bank’s tightened risk tolerances.”

A Standard Chartered spokesman added that it will still bank the mining and retail segments of the supply chain; its decision impacts only the mid-stream, meaning diamond traders and polishers.

A timeline for Standard’s shutdown of its diamond division has not yet been determined, though the bank said it is “working with clients to ensure a smooth exit.”

Eric Tunis, a partner at New York-based accounting and consulting firm Friedman LLP, said the news that Standard Chartered would no longer bank the diamond sector “wasn’t something that was shocking.”

There have been a number of warning signs, including the tightened lending restrictions and, very recently, the bank’s absence from the Las Vegas trade shows. Tunis said this is the first time he can recall not seeing anyone from Standard Chartered in Vegas.

He said the struggle with profitability among diamond manufacturers leading to loan defaults in the mid-stream, the slim margins banks now make when lending to diamond companies, and the general lack of robustness in the trade right now all make banks averse to financing it.

Friedman Co-Managing Partner Harriet Greenberg said compliance issues also are a factor.

Larger money center banks face hefty fines if it’s found that their clients are involved in money laundering, a practice many perceive to be rampant in the diamond industry.

“There’s a

stigma associated with the industry. It’s a very international business, and the nature of the product is, it’s mobile and it’s high value, so all those things go into the perception that there could be money laundering,” she said, though she noted that the stigma is undeserved.

“A lot of it is perception more than reality,” Greenberg said, noting that her firm’s clients, and many companies in the industry, have diligent quality control procedures in place.

The exit of Standard Chartered set off alarm bells around the industry, which has seen a number of banks pull back, and even pull out, in recent years.

Antwerp Diamond Bank is no more. Parent company KBC wound down its operations in 2014 after it is said it couldn’t find a buyer for the bank, though questions loom about the failed sale.

Dutch bank ABN Amro still lends to the mid-stream sector of the market, though sources in the diamond market say the bank has pulled back in recent years.
When asked to comment on Standard Chartered’s decision, Erik Jens, who heads the ABN Amro’s diamond and jewelry division, said he cannot comment on another bank’s strategy.

He noted, however, that in general banks “make risk adjusted return trade-offs on where to allocate capital. As for the diamond industry, we know that reputation and transparency still plays a role in those trade-offs, although we see the many initiatives of the industry to improve its image by self-regulation as well.

“In our opinion, for strong, corporate structured companies with a healthy balance sheet, a sustainable strategy and business plan and long-term potential and profitability, there is enough liquidity from several banks active in the sector, even attracting newcomers, including investors, in Europe, Asia, the U.S.A. and the Middle East.”

Greenberg said the exit of traditional lenders, like Standard Chartered and ADB before it, opens the door for non-bank players, such as hedge funds, to enter the sector and offer financial services.

“Anytime there’s a void, there’s an opportunity,” she said.
Michelle Graffis the editor-in-chief at National Jeweler, directing the publication’s coverage both online and in print.

The Latest

Lady Wardington and diamond clip brooch
AuctionsFeb 26, 2026
Noonans to Auction Lady Wardington’s Jewelry

The jewelry collection belonged to “one of society's most glamorous and beautiful women of the mid-20th century,” said the auction house.

Rough diamonds from De Beers
SourcingFeb 26, 2026
Anglo American CEO Gives Insight Into De Beers Sale

The update came as Anglo took its third write-down on the diamond miner and marketer, which lost more than $500 million in 2025.

Smart Age Solutions CEO Emmanuel Raheb
ColumnistsFeb 26, 2026
Practical Ways Jewelers Can Leverage AI in 2026

Emmanuel Raheb discusses the rise of “GEO” and the importance of having well-written, quality content on your website.

TopImageCrop.jpg
Brought to you by
Is This You? Every Jeweler Has This Problem; We Have the Solution.

Every jeweler faces the same challenge: helping customers protect what they love. Here’s the solution designed for today’s jewelry business.

5 Star Jewelry Simi Valley California
CrimeFeb 26, 2026
Three Sentenced in California Jewelry Heist

Each received around four years for burglarizing a jewelry store and a coffee shop in Simi Valley, California, last May.

Weekly QuizFeb 26, 2026
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Catherine (Cathy) Aulick’s GIA Gianmaria Buccellati Foundation Award Winning Necklace Design
Events & AwardsFeb 26, 2026
GIA Names 2026 Jewelry Design Contest Winner, Retires Annual Award

Catherine Aulick, a GIA graduate, received the ninth and final Gianmaria Buccellati Foundation Award for Excellence in Jewelry Design.

Diamond engagement rings by designer Lorraine West
TrendsFeb 25, 2026
Engagement Ring Trends 2026: What’s In, and Why

We asked a jewelry historian, designer, bridal director, and wedding expert what’s trending in engagement rings. Here’s what they said.

dca-laptop.jpg
Brought to you by
DCA Enters a New Chapter in Jewelry Education

With refreshed branding, a new website, updated courses, and a pathway for growth, DCA is dedicated to supporting retail staff development.

New Forevermark store in India
SourcingFeb 25, 2026
7 Trends That Could Define the Diamond Industry’s Future

Experts from India weigh in the politics, policies, and market dynamics for diamantaires to monitor in 2026 and beyond.

Brilliant Earth Beverly Hills showroom
EditorsFeb 25, 2026
Q&A: Brilliant Earth’s CEO on the New Beverly Hills Store

Beth Gerstein discusses the vibe of the new store, what customers want when fine jewelry shopping today, and the details of “Date Night.”

My Next Question podcast with Marion Fasel and Natalie Francisco
PodcastsFeb 25, 2026
Episode 2: Jewelry Trends & Does the Red Carpet Matter?

Are arm bands poised to make a comeback? Has red-carpet jewelry become boring? Find out on the second episode of the “My Next Question” podcast.

Breitling Navitimer B19 Chronograph 43 Perpetual Calendar
WatchesFeb 25, 2026
Private Equity Firms Write Down Value of Breitling, Report Says

The Swiss watchmaker is battling declining sales amid a rapid retail expansion, according to a Financial Times report.

Rahaminov Diamonds Matriarch Campaign
CollectionsFeb 25, 2026
Rahaminov Diamonds’ New Campaign Honors Its Matriarch

The campaign celebrates Giustina Pavanello Rahaminov, the co-founder’s wife and matriarch of the family-owned brand, for her 88th birthday.

Borsheims Rachel Bennett
IndependentsFeb 25, 2026
Borsheims Names 2025 ‘Ike-It’ Award Winner

Rachel Bennett, a senior jeweler who has been with Borsheims since 2004, earned the award.

Stock image of shipping containers
Policies & IssuesFeb 24, 2026
IEEPA Tariffs Terminated, New 10% Tariff Already Imposed

After the Supreme Court struck down the IEEPA tariffs, President Trump imposed a 10 percent tax on almost all imports via a different law.

Sherry Smith, National Jeweler columnist and principal partner at The Retail Smiths
IndependentsFeb 24, 2026
Sherry Smith Now Principal Partner at The Retail Smiths

The industry veteran, who was with The Edge Retail Academy for 14 years, joins her husband at the company he founded in 2022.

Yafa Signed Jewels Van Cleef & Arpels Necklace and Earrings
IndependentsFeb 24, 2026
Yafa Signed Jewels to Open Store in Miami

The vintage signed jewelry retailer chose Miami due to growing client demand in the city and the greater Latin American region.

Jin Lee Chrono24
WatchesFeb 24, 2026
Chrono24 Names New VP, U.S. General Manager

Former Flight Club executive Jin Lee will bring his experience from the sneaker world to the pre-owned watch marketplace.

Eddie Sakamoto
SourcingFeb 23, 2026
Designer Eddie Sakamoto, a Humble Artist, Dies at 72

Sakamoto, who died in mid-January following a sudden illness, is remembered for his humility and his masterful, architectural designs.

NYCJAOS spring show 2026
Events & AwardsFeb 23, 2026
NYCJAOS Announces Four-Day Spring Show

The April event will feature a new VIP shopping day requiring a special ticket.

Dua Lipa Bulgari Brand Ambassador
TrendsFeb 23, 2026
Dua Lipa Is Bulgari’s New Ambassador

Bulgari chose the British-Albanian singer-songwriter for her powerful and enduring voice in contemporary culture, the jeweler said.

US Supreme Court building
Policies & IssuesFeb 20, 2026
Supreme Court Rules Against Most of President Trump’s Tariffs

In a 6-3 ruling, the court said the president exceeded his authority when imposing sweeping tariffs under IEEPA.

Headshot of National Jeweler columnist Peter Smith
ColumnistsFeb 20, 2026
Peter Smith: Happiness, Cavemen, and Jewelry Sales

Smith encourages salespeople to ask customers questions that elicit the release of oxytocin, the brain’s “feel-good” chemical.

Boucheron Faisceaux Brooch
CollectionsFeb 20, 2026
Boucheron’s ‘Faisceaux’ Brooch Heads to V&A Museum

The brooch, our Piece of the Week, shows the chromatic spectrum through a holographic coating on rock crystal.

Ann Weaver Bailey, also known as “Mama Ann”
IndependentsFeb 19, 2026
Bailey’s Fine Jewelry Co-Founder ‘Mama Ann’ Bailey Dies at 100

Raised in an orphanage, Bailey was 18 when she met her husband, Clyde. They opened their North Carolina jewelry store in 1948.

Material Good Boston Location Interior Rendering
IndependentsFeb 19, 2026
Material Good Opens Third Location

Material Good is celebrating its 10th anniversary as it opens its new store in the Back Bay neighborhood of Boston.

Original Miami Beach Antique Show sign
Events & AwardsFeb 19, 2026
The Original Miami Beach Antique Show Returns in March

The show will be held March 26-30 at the Miami Beach Convention Center.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy