Bain & Co.’s latest report on the luxury market examines why the market’s customer base is shrinking and how to appeal to consumers in 2025.
Why Standard Chartered Shut Down Its Diamond Unit
The mid-stream sector of the diamond industry now “falls outside of the bank’s tightened risk tolerances,” the London-based lender said.
London--Standard Chartered Plc no longer will finance diamond traders and polishers after reevaluating its portfolio and determining there is too much risk for too little return in the sector.
The London-based bank began thoroughly reviewing all of its operations after CEO Bill Winters took over last year, looking to exit businesses generating low returns and/or that are vulnerable to large swings in loan impairment.
The trading and polishing sector of the diamond industry was certainly among those in Winters’ crosshairs, with the spike in defaults and bankruptcies last year--the bank was among those caught up in the massive Winsome Diamonds default--and the increased compliance reporting and regulatory capital costs associated with financing the industry.
In March, the London-based bank began to pull back, tightening its terms for lending to the diamond sector by asking dealers to provide more collateral or take out insurance protection on their loans.
Then, last week, JCKOnline.com broke the news that Standard Chartered would be exiting the diamond sector entirely.
In an official statement, the bank said that continuing to provide financing to diamond traders and polishers “falls outside of the bank’s tightened risk tolerances.”
A Standard Chartered spokesman added that it will still bank the mining and retail segments of the supply chain; its decision impacts only the mid-stream, meaning diamond traders and polishers.
A timeline for Standard’s shutdown of its diamond division has not yet been determined, though the bank said it is “working with clients to ensure a smooth exit.”
Eric Tunis, a partner at New York-based accounting and consulting firm Friedman LLP, said the news that Standard Chartered would no longer bank the diamond sector “wasn’t something that was shocking.”
There have been a number of warning signs, including the tightened lending restrictions and, very recently, the bank’s absence from the Las Vegas trade shows. Tunis said this is the first time he can recall not seeing anyone from Standard Chartered in Vegas.
He said the struggle with profitability among diamond manufacturers leading to loan defaults in the mid-stream, the slim margins banks now make when lending to diamond companies, and the general lack of robustness in the trade right now all make banks averse to financing it.
Friedman Co-Managing Partner Harriet Greenberg said compliance issues also are a factor.
Larger money center banks face hefty fines if it’s found that their clients are involved in money laundering, a practice many perceive to be rampant in the diamond industry.
“There’s a
“A lot of it is perception more than reality,” Greenberg said, noting that her firm’s clients, and many companies in the industry, have diligent quality control procedures in place.
The exit of Standard Chartered set off alarm bells around the industry, which has seen a number of banks pull back, and even pull out, in recent years.
Antwerp Diamond Bank is no more. Parent company KBC wound down its operations in 2014 after it is said it couldn’t find a buyer for the bank, though questions loom about the failed sale.
Dutch bank ABN Amro still lends to the mid-stream sector of the market, though sources in the diamond market say the bank has pulled back in recent years.
When asked to comment on Standard Chartered’s decision, Erik Jens, who heads the ABN Amro’s diamond and jewelry division, said he cannot comment on another bank’s strategy.
He noted, however, that in general banks “make risk adjusted return trade-offs on where to allocate capital. As for the diamond industry, we know that reputation and transparency still plays a role in those trade-offs, although we see the many initiatives of the industry to improve its image by self-regulation as well.
“In our opinion, for strong, corporate structured companies with a healthy balance sheet, a sustainable strategy and business plan and long-term potential and profitability, there is enough liquidity from several banks active in the sector, even attracting newcomers, including investors, in Europe, Asia, the U.S.A. and the Middle East.”
Greenberg said the exit of traditional lenders, like Standard Chartered and ADB before it, opens the door for non-bank players, such as hedge funds, to enter the sector and offer financial services.
“Anytime there’s a void, there’s an opportunity,” she said.
The Latest
![CBP agents in Louisville, Kentucky, were busy seizing shipments of counterfeit jewelry last month, the agency said. Officers nabbed 28 shipments of jewelry and watches designed to pass as pieces from brands including Rolex, Cartier, and Van Cleef & Arpels. Pictured is a counterfeit Cartier “Juste Un Clou” bracelet. (Photo courtesy of U.S. Customs & Border Protection) Counterfeit Cartier “Juste Un Clou” bracelet](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/e7c0b70c799bfe84030a1dbda3475213.jpg)
Officers in Louisville seized 28 shipments of fake jewelry and watches that would have been worth more than $27 million if genuine.
![“Inside Out” takes inspiration from tailoring, specifically tuxedos and the lapel where the inside of the fabric becomes visible. The “Flip” bangles seen here feature 18-karat yellow gold that has been folded over and set with pavé diamonds ($12,700 for right, $21,500 for left). Hearts On Fire Inside Out Collection Bracelets](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/fc2828c6d3c97b4000252f19f0728262.jpg)
The collection centers on the art of tailoring, inspired by designs that feature folded fabrics, such as a tuxedo lapel.
![Top Image.png](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/17d84393fb1ce78143e2cc3ca59f2af5.png)
Colored stones are stepping into a jewelry spotlight typically reserved for diamonds—are you ready to sell color?
![Select Jewelry Shows has added a new show in Nashville, scheduled to be held Oct. 26-27 at the JW Marriott Hotel. JW Marriott Hotel in Nashville Tennessee](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/ac6eb0f0b6e08bcbd55ac4cf645c71cf.jpg)
The trade show has added a new location to its fall line-up.
![](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/99a46b30cc354962ac2e29ecd113587a.jpg)
![Jade Trau Ladybird Charm](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/c06d874eacb2e378649c91741365aac2.jpg)
From the brand’s latest collection of lucky charms, the ladybird is seen as a bearer of good fortune and a ward against negative energy.
![Rough diamonds from Canada’s Gahcho Kué mine. Production at Gahcho Kué fell 43 percent in the fourth quarter and 16 percent on the year, part of a broader decline across all mines De Beers operates. (©De Beers Group/Photo credit: Ben Perry @ Armoury Films) Rough diamonds from De Beers’ Gahcho Kue diamond mine in Canada](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/1808183cd6c3220034d3e219c769a544.jpg)
The moves come amid a prolonged period of lower demand for diamonds, particularly in China.
![Resolutions - 2025.jpg](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/7b2ba343f8d947757b0ff597db4ca873.jpg)
The new year feels like a clean slate, inspiring reflection, hope, and the motivation to become better versions of ourselves.
![Stuller’s Bench Jeweler Workshop will run March 28- 29 at the company’s global headquarters in Lafayette, Louisiana. Stuller Bench Jeweler Workshop](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/31754b1a2e71d296592b1d47f0966e23.jpg)
The workshop returns in March, along with the “Battle of the Benches” mini challenge series.
![Indianapolis independent Windsor Jewelry will continue its 100-plus years in business after finding buyers, local attorneys Fernanda Beraldi and Ed Broecker. (Photo courtesy of Windsor Jewelry’s Facebook page) Windsor Jewelry in Indianapolis, Indiana](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/849170760c7b8e3b1b2773ae07a65e9d.jpg)
Two attorneys purchased Windsor Jewelry, which was set to close, and will retain all existing staff at the downtown Indianapolis store.
![De Beers Jewellers uses rough green diamonds and polished round brilliant-cut white diamonds in the “Embrace” bracelet as an abstract nod to a tree’s roots. The main 1.72-carat oval diamond is set in a bezel made of jet, which the jeweler is using for the first time in this collection. De Beers Jewellers Embrace Bracelet](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/0b19cbf49dc1444ce2bcbfb236eeb421.jpg)
The “Essence of Nature, Chapter One” collection echoes trees and roots, literally and figuratively, through three sets of high jewelry.
![Hamilton Jewelers has renovated its Palm Beach, Florida, boutique, located on Worth Avenue. Hamilton Jewelers Worth Avenue interior](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/cd9f9acaf348dc889caf375bd65c6af6.jpg)
The fourth-generation, family-owned jeweler has given its Worth Avenue store a new look.
![Anthony Farrer, 36, the luxury watch dealer who made a name for himself as “The Timepiece Gentleman,” pleaded guilty to two counts of fraud in late 2024. Last week, a federal judge sentenced him to 70 months in prison. Stock image of a gavel](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/3b9f812a1bfb5532acc6a43b0dcf750c.jpg)
Luxury watch dealer Anthony Farrer pleaded guilty late last year to defrauding clients in a scheme with Ponzi-type elements.
![A 14-karat gold-plated “Sparkling Bow” necklace set with cubic zirconia by Pandora ($225). The jewelry retailer posted strong results in 2024. Pandora sparkling bow necklace](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/e5b8520c22df8f43d3ff99522d695b2e.jpg)
In its full-year results, the retailer shared its 2025 outlook and an update on the global rollout of its lab-grown diamond collection.
![From everyday staples to design-forward pieces, amethyst is a gemstone seen across many facets of fine jewelry. Seen here is Seal & Scribe’s “Freedom Moon” ring with hand-carved amethyst depicting a bird flying free of its cage ($3,200), one of the 16 selects in this month’s Amanda’s Style File. Seal & Scribe “Freedom Moon” Ring](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/8344e34d6914ef60853445872f341dcc.jpg)
Celebrate February birthstones and the gem shows in Arizona this month with a versatile stone like amethyst.
![Trucks at work at Orapa, one of Botswana’s diamond mines. De Beers Group and the Government of the Republic of Botswana have come to an agreement on how they will divvy up the country’s diamond production for the next decade and are close to signing a new deal, De Beers said Monday. (©De Beers Group/Photo credit: Ben Perry @ Armoury Films) Trucks at the Orapa diamond mine in Botswana](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/ba5da4724696b7918f4161d1e6b49fad.jpg)
The agreement will allocate an increasing proportion of the country’s rough diamonds to the government of Botswana over the next decade.
![The “Diane” clip from Van Cleef & Arpels’ “Bal du Siècle, Bals de Lègende” high jewelry collection, one of the pieces soon to be on display at the American Museum of Natural History. The piece depicts Diana, the Roman goddess of the moon, in white gold floating above a purple star sapphire in a cloud of blue and mauve sapphires with a diamond crescent moon in one hand and a diamond star in the other. (Image courtesy of Van Cleef & Arpels) Van Clef & Arpels Diane (Diana) Clip](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/4a89aa976c01f42668ef3093a172d6fb.jpg)
“Cosmic Splendor: Jewelry From the Collections of Van Cleef & Arpels,” opens April 11 at the American Museum of Natural History.
![The “Sweet Life” ring by Mined + Found is made of 14-karat yellow gold with enamel and diamonds ($6,450). Consumers are expected to spend a record $27.5 billion on Valentine’s Day this year, according to the annual survey by the NRF and Prosper Insights & Analytics. Chocolate box ring by Mined + Found](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/3e435626bba1270b46bdf27f7be2bb1d.jpg)
Those celebrating Valentine’s Day this year are expected to spend a record $27.5 billion on jewels, flowers, candy, and more.
![Lady Gaga wore this tourmaline, onyx, and pearl Tiffany & Co. necklace from the 1930s to Sunday night’s Grammy Awards in Los Angeles. She paired it with a gothic custom Vivienne Westwood gown on the red carpet, and with the simpler, off-the-shoulder dress she wore to accept the Grammy for Best Pop Duo/Group Performance. Lady Gaga Tiffany & Co. necklace worn to the 2025 Grammys](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/3b4fcbaadbb3b0c4a2d080c59b5c1e0d.jpg)
From Lady Gaga’s 1930s Tiffany & Co. necklace to Taylor Swift’s “T,” Michelle Graff recaps the night’s most memorable jewelry looks.
![Qurate, the parent company of HSN and QVC, is closing HSN’s Florida campus as it consolidates operations. The company introduced HSN+ and QVC+, a live video streaming shoppable app, in 2022. (Image courtesy of Qurate Retail Group) HSN+ QVC+ logos on a television, laptop, and phone screen](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/040c24a9e98572cc5b6d1f07484b4484.jpg)
Layoffs will reportedly start next month as HSN plans to move into QVC’s location in Pennsylvania.
![Lauren Harwell Godfrey of Harwell Godfrey, pictured, has been attending the Tucson gem shows since 2016. Jewelry designer Lauren Harwell Godfrey looking at colored gemstones](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/0f97b086597f98d5becec66c22f8a024.jpg)
A group of creatives talked to Associate Editor Lauren McLemore about their approach to the annual Tucson gem, mineral, and fossil shows.
![This yellow diamond line bracelet (left), which Michael Jackson gifted to Elizabeth Taylor, sold for $147,480 at Woolley & Wallis’ recent jewelry sale, while the Cartier necklace seen at right sold for $85,218. (Photos courtesy of Woolley & Wallis). Elizabeth Taylor diamond bracelet](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/83e92a5ff5ec4c00b95c559750c5669a.jpg)
The auction also featured the sale of a Cartier necklace made when Egyptomania was sweeping Great Britain.
![Lalaounis Blossom Rosette charm](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/03ee4d476077e127d77a835d102ab203.jpg)
The “Blossom Rosette” blooms with love, beauty, and hope for the year ahead.
![Harvey Rovinsky with his wife of 50-plus years, Maddy Rovinsky, in a picture submitted to National Jeweler when they were inducted into the Retailer Hall of Fame in 2022. Rovinsky died suddenly on Tuesday at age 77. Harvey Rovinsky, former owner of Bernie Robbins Jewelers](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/0bd3775c9c5977d5c0573768722df34d.jpg)
Rovinsky is remembered as a great mentor who made the employees of his stores feel like family.
![At the upcoming Centurion jewelry trade show, Facets of Fire is hosting the “Facets of Fire Diamond Charity Challenge,” which asks retailers to choose the brightest diamond in the group. Three diamonds in a row](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/974d953a632e584b544bac2bd920454b.jpg)
For every jeweler who tries their luck, the company will make a donation to Jewelers for Children.
![Over the last few weeks, the boards of at least five Women’s Jewelry Association regional chapters have announced their resignations, raising questions about the future of the organization. Women’s Jewelry Association logo](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/95e3c5f4dc0d7e557460ab0787bb41db.jpg)
The boards of at least five chapters have resigned in response to controversial statements the WJA national board president made last month.
![Melanie Grant is resigning as executive director of the Responsible Jewellery Council. John Hall will serve as interim executive director while the organization searches for a replacement. (Photo credit: Andrew Werner) Jewelry writer and curator Melanie Grant](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/7bfef18781617e0e0160360858123304.jpg)
An experienced jewelry writer and curator, Grant led the organization for two years.