EditorsApr 15, 2025
Tariffs: What We Know Right Now Editor-in-Chief Michelle Graff answers questions about how the new taxes levied on countries like India and China will impact the industry.
GradingMar 28, 2017
Gübelin Gem Lab Debuts ‘Emerald Paternity Test’
The new technology introduced at Baselworld can trace an emerald to the mine of its origin.
The world’s largest emerald mine, the Kagem Mine located in Zambia, was the site of Gübelin Gem Lab’s preliminary Emerald Paternity Test. Kagem Mine is majority-owned by Gemfields.
Basel, Switzerland--When developing a method to make emeralds completely traceable, Gübelin Gem Lab looked to DNA.
Introduced at Baselworld 2017, Gübelin’s “Emerald Paternity Test” involves applying DNA-based nanoparticles directly onto rough emerald crystals at mining sites.
Nanotechnology deals with particles less than 100 nanometers large. The particles aren't visible to the naked eye or even under an optical microscope, so a stone’s properties and grading won’t be affected by the application.
Gübelin’s application process is designed to withstand all steps of an emerald’s journey, from cutting to cleaning, polishing, transporting and setting, so that the nanoparticles will act as a permanent origin tag.
Just like a human's DNA is specific to each individual, the tag will be unique to each mine.
Introduced at Baselworld 2017, Gübelin’s “Emerald Paternity Test” involves applying DNA-based nanoparticles directly onto rough emerald crystals at mining sites.
Nanotechnology deals with particles less than 100 nanometers large. The particles aren't visible to the naked eye or even under an optical microscope, so a stone’s properties and grading won’t be affected by the application.
Gübelin’s application process is designed to withstand all steps of an emerald’s journey, from cutting to cleaning, polishing, transporting and setting, so that the nanoparticles will act as a permanent origin tag.
Just like a human's DNA is specific to each individual, the tag will be unique to each mine.
This is an image of the DNA-based nanoparticles applied directly to rough emerald crystals as part of the emerald paternity test. The particles are invisible to the human eye and even to optical microscopes. At any point in time, the particles can be decoded to reveal a stone’s origin.
“This technology offers all stakeholders along the entire supply chain, from the miner to the final customers, proof of the exact source of emeralds, instilling confidence and creating trust,” said Daniel Nyfeler, managing director of Gübelin Gem Lab. “It enables a new level of transparency for the gemstone trade.”
Gübelin worked with Gemfields, majority owner of the world’s largest emerald mine, the Kagem Mine in Zambia, to test the new technology.
“Partnering with Gemfields for the feasibility study was an obvious choice,” Nyfeler said, “as it is not only an industry leader, but a forward-thinking company, and hence a perfect partner to test a ground-breaking idea such as this paternity test for emeralds.”
The results were a success and Gemfields told National Jeweler it would "continue to tag emerald production coming through the auction system."
Gemfields CEO Ian Harebottle explained, “Embracing innovation, technology and increased transparency is at the heart of our approach. We were therefore thrilled to assist Gübelin in the testing of this new technology, and we are very excited about the outcome as it offers a multitude of benefits to the industry and the consumer.”
For now, the paternity test will only work for emeralds, as the DNA-based nanoparticles are able to adhere to the fissures unique to the gemstone, and remain there through all processing.
Gübelin, which analyzes diamonds, color gemstones and pearls at its laboratories in Lucerne, Switzerland, Hong Kong and New York, said that the nanotechnology could offer transparency across the industry, to large and small mining companies, governments, trade organizations, industry watchdogs, jewelry brands and customers.
Gübelin is "looking to develop relationships with all stakeholders in the supply chain," they said to National Jeweler.
More on Grading
The Latest
EditorsApr 15, 2025
Q&A: Bogolo Joy Kenewendo on Making Deals, Marketing DiamondsKenewendo, Botswana’s minster of minerals and energy, discusses closing the deal with De Beers and the work that was missed along the way.
AuctionsApr 15, 2025
23-Carat ‘Golconda Blue’ Heads to AuctionThe historic fancy vivid blue diamond set to headline Christie’s Geneva sale next month could sell for up to $50 million.
FinancialsApr 15, 2025
LVMH’s Q1 Sales Slip 2 PercentLVMH CFO Cécile Cabanis also discussed the effects of tariffs so far.
Weekly QuizApr 11, 2025
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
CrimeApr 15, 2025
Jon Hamm Plays a Jewel Thief on Apple TV+The “Mad Men” and “The Morning Show” star steals jewelry, art, and handbags from his wealthy neighbors in “Your Friends & Neighbors.”
SourcingApr 15, 2025
Diamond Club West Coast Names 2025 BoardThe organization has reelected Kalpesh Jhaveri as president.
Brought to you by
The Heart of the Industry: Giving Bench Jewelers the Recognition They DeserveBench jewelers spend years honing their skills, Jewelers of America’s Certification validates their talents.
FinancialsApr 14, 2025
Movado to Restate Years of Financials Due to ‘Misconduct’ in Dubai An investigation found that the former managing director of Movado’s Dubai branch overstated and prematurely recorded sales.
CollectionsApr 14, 2025
Sauer Embraces Emptiness Through ‘Ma’ CollectionThe collection pays tribute to the Japanese philosophy of Ma, studying balance, stillness, and the interplay between presence and absence.
IndependentsApr 14, 2025
Illinois Jeweler Closing After 45 YearsMari Lou’s Fine Jewelry in Orland Park, a suburb of Chicago, is closing its doors.
AuctionsApr 11, 2025
Piece of the Week: A Replica of Princess Grace’s Wedding EarringsThese earrings by Van Cleef & Arpels, featuring the same design as a pair worn by Princess Grace, are up for auction at Woolley & Wallis.
Recorded WebinarsApr 11, 2025
Watch: Top Tips for Saving Time With AITwo experts share how artificial intelligence tools can help retailers run a more efficient business.
SourcingApr 11, 2025
Mikimoto Names New President, CEO for U.S. DivisionKentaro Nishimura, who has been with the pearl company since 1997, has been promoted to president and CEO of Mikimoto America.
WatchesApr 11, 2025
Bulova Documentary Now on Amazon Prime“America Telling Time: 150 Years of Bulova” explores the storied history of the American watchmaker.
Policies & IssuesApr 10, 2025
Trump Presses Pause on Higher Tariffs for 90 DaysAn across-the-board tariff of 10 percent remains in place for all U.S. trading partners, except China.
MajorsApr 10, 2025
Brilliant Earth Taps Influencers, Their Moms for Mother’s Day CampaignBrigette Pheloung and Tania Sarin, and their mothers, star in the campaign wearing medallions they co-designed.
MajorsApr 10, 2025
Pary LeVian, Matriarch of the LeVian Family, Dies at 96LeVian is remembered for her unwavering commitment to her family, community, and helping others.
Events & AwardsApr 10, 2025
Hamptons Jewelry Show to Debut This SummerThe retail show is open to the public and will run July 24-27.
MajorsApr 09, 2025
Tiffany & Co. Opens Flagship in BrazilThe new store in the upscale Iguatemi São Paulo mall is the storied brand’s first flagship in Brazil.
AuctionsApr 09, 2025
Bonhams to Offer Selection of Chaumet JewelsThe pieces span from the Art Deco period to the 1970s and will go up for auction at the Paris Jewels sale later this month.
MajorsApr 09, 2025
Pandora Names Tyla as Its New Brand AmbassadorThe Grammy-winning singer-songwriter, who is set to perform at Coachella this month, also debuted a curated selection from the brand.
WatchesApr 08, 2025
Here Are the New Rolex Watches for 2025The introductions include the Land-Dweller, Rolex’s first new model since 2012, as well as several new dials for its classic timepieces.
MajorsApr 08, 2025
Willis Cowlishaw, Zale Executive and Mentor to Many, Dies at 98Cowlishaw earned a degree in horology after serving in World War II, working at one of the first Zales stores in Tulsa, Oklahoma.
AuctionsApr 07, 2025
182-Carat Paraíba-Type Tourmaline Heading to Auction in Hong KongBonhams will offer the “Kat Florence Lumina” at its May 22 jewelry auction.
CrimeApr 07, 2025
Third Man Involved in $2.7M Smash-and-Grab Is SentencedIn March 2022, the men went into a jewelry store in Beverly Hills and smashed the display cases with sledgehammers and crowbars.
