CollectionsApr 26, 2024
Piece of the Week: Jacquie Aiche’s Starry Galaxy NecklaceThe necklace is featured in the brand’s “Rebel Heart” campaign starring Adam Levine and Behati Prinsloo.
EditorsDec 23, 2019
7 ‘Gems’ I Discovered in 2019
Senior Editor Brecken Branstrator revisits interesting facts, stones and people she learned or wrote about this year.
Getting to see a number of fine grandidierite specimens in person was a 2019 highlight for Senior Editor Brecken Branstrator.
One of my favorite things about my job? There’s always so much to learn and discover.
We attend conferences and events, talk to so many people, see so many gems and jewelry, and do so much research and reporting for our articles that new information is constant.
As a person who’s infinitely curious and loves to be in a learning position, I can’t get enough.
2019 was chock full of “gems” of information, especially when it came to colored stones. Here are just a few of my highlights.
We attend conferences and events, talk to so many people, see so many gems and jewelry, and do so much research and reporting for our articles that new information is constant.
As a person who’s infinitely curious and loves to be in a learning position, I can’t get enough.
2019 was chock full of “gems” of information, especially when it came to colored stones. Here are just a few of my highlights.
1. Learning the natural pearl market in the U.S. is a by-product of the button industry.
This little nugget came to me via the Accredited Gemologists Association’s Tucson conference in February, where Gina Latendresse of the American Pearl Company spoke.
According to her, by the late 1800s, the freshwater pearl button industry in the U.S. was flourishing, thanks to the number of mussels available in the country’s waters as well as the availability of cheap labor.
Decades later, this would give way to a new market created around cultured pearls in Japan, and, specifically, their need for the nuclei from North American natural pearls.
“All cultured pearls around the world, if they’re using a mother-of-pearl bead, they have a little bit of Tennessee or Mississippi River tributary mollusk inside of them,” she said.
2. Discovering the magic of grandidierite.
This year was something like the year of grandidierite for me, and oh how lucky I am for it.
At the AGTA GemFair show in Tucson, I got to see a handful of beautiful specimens in person at the booth of—who else?—Omi Gems.
I then got to view a few more faceted stones at the Wilensky Gallery in the New York, which put three spectacular specimens from gem dealer and Mineral Art manager Brice Gobin on display last spring.
Chatting with the team in Tucson and getting to see so many pieces in real life—and touch and play with them!—led me to write a “5 Things to Know About … Grandidierite” blog post, full of information about the gem's discovery, rarity and so much more. I hope you readers enjoy(ed) it as much as I liked writing it.
This little nugget came to me via the Accredited Gemologists Association’s Tucson conference in February, where Gina Latendresse of the American Pearl Company spoke.
According to her, by the late 1800s, the freshwater pearl button industry in the U.S. was flourishing, thanks to the number of mussels available in the country’s waters as well as the availability of cheap labor.
Decades later, this would give way to a new market created around cultured pearls in Japan, and, specifically, their need for the nuclei from North American natural pearls.
“All cultured pearls around the world, if they’re using a mother-of-pearl bead, they have a little bit of Tennessee or Mississippi River tributary mollusk inside of them,” she said.
2. Discovering the magic of grandidierite.
This year was something like the year of grandidierite for me, and oh how lucky I am for it.
At the AGTA GemFair show in Tucson, I got to see a handful of beautiful specimens in person at the booth of—who else?—Omi Gems.
I then got to view a few more faceted stones at the Wilensky Gallery in the New York, which put three spectacular specimens from gem dealer and Mineral Art manager Brice Gobin on display last spring.
Chatting with the team in Tucson and getting to see so many pieces in real life—and touch and play with them!—led me to write a “5 Things to Know About … Grandidierite” blog post, full of information about the gem's discovery, rarity and so much more. I hope you readers enjoy(ed) it as much as I liked writing it.
3. Discovering dumortierite during a deskside.
In October, jewelry designer Alison Nagasue dropped by the office for a deskside visit.
We had a great appointment, during which she showed me her new designs, including a number using carved opals that were adorable.
But one stand-alone stone that really caught my eye was a ring centered on quartz with dumortierite (pictured above), a blue quartz that ranges from about 7 to 8 on the Mohs scale
The specimen she had chosen looked like it had icy blue crystals growing inside. It was mesmerizing and, given that the appointment was in October, was perfect for the season we’d soon be heading into.
4. Meeting this (opal) fish.
I love seeing what comes out of the industry’s design competitions, especially when resulting works use materials in a completely unique and fun way.
This year, I was a judge for Jewelers of America’s CASE Awards for jewelry retailers, and I met a piece with which I became slightly obsessed for its playfulness.
Master Jewelers’ Bernie Benavidez designed this brooch, which features a carved Lightning Ridge Australian opal in 18-karat gold.
The 0.23-carat briolette diamond on the front moves to provide the “light” for this comical anglerfish.
As soon as I saw him, I was hooked (pun intended). It wasn’t a CASE winner, but it was a winner in my book.
5. Learning sphene has more “fire” than a diamond.
Picking subjects for the “5 Things to Know About…” blog is a combination of focusing on stones that might be getting more attention in the trade and picking colored gems that I personally just want to know more about.
Sphene was the latter for me this year; I have seen a few great stones in person in recent years, and a really good one in Tucson this year convinced me I should dive into it more.
One of my favorite discoveries as I was researching and pulling it together was learning that the gem has one of the highest dispersions—referring to a mineral’s ability to break white light into spectral colors—of any mineral.
In fact, the dispersion of sphene is 0.051. A diamond’s, by comparison, is 0.044.
This is what gives sphene its intense “fire,” allowing it to showcase multiple colors, and one of the factors that gemstone connoisseurs appreciate so much about it.
6. Spotting these amazing inlay pearls.
I intended to write a story about the inlay pearls that were popping up and my newfound obsession with them this year, which never came to fruition, so I’m happy to give them a little love and attention here.
Eliko Pearls is offering pearls inlaid with abalone shell and even 24-karat gold powdered paint, creating the most beautiful and intricate patterns unlike anything I’ve seen.
The craft of making the maki-e and mosaic pearls stems from an ancient Japanese technique; the CPAA has a great story that delves deeper into the art on its website.
The inlay pearls are popping up in finished jewelry, and the look is unbeatable.
Picking subjects for the “5 Things to Know About…” blog is a combination of focusing on stones that might be getting more attention in the trade and picking colored gems that I personally just want to know more about.
Sphene was the latter for me this year; I have seen a few great stones in person in recent years, and a really good one in Tucson this year convinced me I should dive into it more.
One of my favorite discoveries as I was researching and pulling it together was learning that the gem has one of the highest dispersions—referring to a mineral’s ability to break white light into spectral colors—of any mineral.
In fact, the dispersion of sphene is 0.051. A diamond’s, by comparison, is 0.044.
This is what gives sphene its intense “fire,” allowing it to showcase multiple colors, and one of the factors that gemstone connoisseurs appreciate so much about it.
6. Spotting these amazing inlay pearls.
I intended to write a story about the inlay pearls that were popping up and my newfound obsession with them this year, which never came to fruition, so I’m happy to give them a little love and attention here.
Eliko Pearls is offering pearls inlaid with abalone shell and even 24-karat gold powdered paint, creating the most beautiful and intricate patterns unlike anything I’ve seen.
The craft of making the maki-e and mosaic pearls stems from an ancient Japanese technique; the CPAA has a great story that delves deeper into the art on its website.
The inlay pearls are popping up in finished jewelry, and the look is unbeatable.
7. The industry is full of so many kindhearted people.
This isn’t really something I just discovered this year, of course, but as I was going back through the stories I wrote in 2019, something that stood out was how many stories I wrote about good projects from members of the industry or money being raised to help others out through gems and jewelry.
There was the launch of Gem Legacy in Tucson, designed to give back to the East African gemstone communities and which immediately raised money to provide a compressor to women miners in Kenya. (They’re always looking for more ways to give back, so if you’re still in need of a good cause to donate to this holiday season, look no further.)
Then in March I wrote a story about jewelry designer Theresa Kaz losing her house in a fire. After it happened, do you know what she did? She turned around and raised money for the volunteer fire department that helped her and her family out.
Then there were the many individuals and companies raising money for organizations fighting the fires in the Amazon or helping its communities—Hannah Becker of Diamondoodles and Noelle Habib of Noelle Habib Gems, blogger A Thousand Facets, and Gurhan, among others.
It was such a nice reminder that so many recognize how lucky we are to be in our position and how we can use it for the best.
I’m going to end the blog with that to close the year on a note of hope and positivity.
Happy holidays, all! See you in 2020.
This isn’t really something I just discovered this year, of course, but as I was going back through the stories I wrote in 2019, something that stood out was how many stories I wrote about good projects from members of the industry or money being raised to help others out through gems and jewelry.
There was the launch of Gem Legacy in Tucson, designed to give back to the East African gemstone communities and which immediately raised money to provide a compressor to women miners in Kenya. (They’re always looking for more ways to give back, so if you’re still in need of a good cause to donate to this holiday season, look no further.)
Then in March I wrote a story about jewelry designer Theresa Kaz losing her house in a fire. After it happened, do you know what she did? She turned around and raised money for the volunteer fire department that helped her and her family out.
Then there were the many individuals and companies raising money for organizations fighting the fires in the Amazon or helping its communities—Hannah Becker of Diamondoodles and Noelle Habib of Noelle Habib Gems, blogger A Thousand Facets, and Gurhan, among others.
It was such a nice reminder that so many recognize how lucky we are to be in our position and how we can use it for the best.
I’m going to end the blog with that to close the year on a note of hope and positivity.
Happy holidays, all! See you in 2020.
Editors' Picks
Sponsored by
More on Editors
The Latest
Events & AwardsApr 26, 2024
AGS Conclave and GIA Symposium Are ConvergingThe two organizations will host a joint event, “Converge,” in September 2025.
SourcingApr 26, 2024
Anglo American Reportedly Shopping De Beers as BHP Eyes Anglo Big changes appear to be on the horizon for the diamond miner and its parent company, Anglo American.
Brought to you by
The Blueprint for Success in Scalable, Personalized Jewelry RetailWith Ho Brothers, you can unlock your brand's true potential and offer customers the personalized jewelry experiences they desire.
Events & AwardsApr 25, 2024
Alexis Padis Takes Over as AGS Board President Padis succeeds Lisa Bridge, marking the first time the organization has had two women board presidents in a row.
Weekly QuizApr 26, 2024
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these seven questions.
WatchesApr 25, 2024
Audemars Piguet and John Mayer Partner on Limited Edition WatchThe Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar "John Mayer" was celebrated at a star-studded party in LA last week.
SourcingApr 25, 2024
De Beers Lowers Production Guidance for 2024The announcement came as the company reported a 23 percent drop in production in Q1.
Brought to you by
How Jewelers of America Represents Your BusinessFor over 30 years, JA has advocated for the industry, fought against harmful legislation and backed measures that help jewelry businesses.
MajorsApr 25, 2024
Detroit Lions’ QB Jared Goff Keeps Going to JaredThe three-time Pro Bowler continues to partner with the retailer, donating to a Detroit nonprofit and giving watches to fans.
CrimeApr 24, 2024
Jewelry Crime Declines Significantly, But Dollar Losses Remain High A double-digit drop in the number of in-store crimes was offset by a jump in off-premises attacks, JSA’s 2023 crime report shows.
CollectionsApr 24, 2024
Pippa Small Announces ‘Venus’ CollectionInspired by the Roman goddess of love, the designer looked to the sea for her new collection.
FinancialsApr 24, 2024
Kering’s Jewelry Brands a Bright Spot in Tough Q1The luxury titan posted declining sales, weighed down by Gucci’s poor performance.
Events & AwardsApr 24, 2024
JCK Industry Fund Announces 2024 Grant RecipientsThe selected nine organizations have outlined their plans for the funds.
SourcingApr 24, 2024
Rio Tinto’s Q1 Production Drops Amid Pause to Honor Lost Colleagues The mining company’s Diavik Diamond Mine lost four employees in a plane crash in January.
WatchesApr 24, 2024
These Are Rolex’s New Watches for 2024 The crown introduced a dozen timepieces in Geneva, including a heavy metal version of its deep-sea divers’ watch.
ColumnistsApr 23, 2024
The Smart Lab: Advanced Email Marketing Strategies for Mother’s DayEmmanuel Raheb recommends digging into demographic data, customizing your store’s communications, and retargeting ahead of May 12.
IndependentsApr 23, 2024
Hannoush Jewelers Opens New Store in New York Located in the town of Queensbury, it features a dedicated bridal section and a Gabriel & Co. store-in-store.
SourcingApr 23, 2024
Lucapa Sells 3 Diamonds for $10.5M in First Lulo Tender of 2024A 203-carat diamond from the alluvial mine in Angola achieved the highest price.
GradingApr 23, 2024
GIA Has a New Book About William RuserRuser was known for his figural jewelry with freshwater pearls and for his celebrity clientele.
CollectionsApr 22, 2024
Jacquie Aiche’s New Campaign Stars Adam Levine, Behati PrinslooThe “Rebel Heart” campaign embodies rebellion, romance, and sensuality, the brand said.
SourcingApr 22, 2024
Virtual Diamond Boutique Rebrands as ‘VDB’The overhaul includes a new logo and enhanced digital marketplace.
MajorsApr 22, 2024
Signet Raises Nearly $9M for St. Jude Children’s Research HospitalThe money will go toward supporting ongoing research and aftercare programs for childhood cancer survivors.
CollectionsApr 19, 2024
Piece of the Week: Retrouvaí’s Treasure NecklaceA new addition to the “Heirloom” collection, this one-of-a-kind piece features 32 custom-cut gemstones.
CrimeApr 19, 2024
Grand Jury to Hear Case Against Jeweler Charged in Fatal Shove Following IJO ShowLast month in Dallas, David Walton pushed another jeweler, David Ettinger, who later died.
MajorsApr 19, 2024
Unique Designs Acquires China PearlThe move will allow the manufacturing company to offer a more “diverse and comprehensive” range of products.
GradingApr 19, 2024
AGS Ideal Report Now Available in Printed FormFrom now through mid-May, GIA will be offering the reports at a 50 percent discount.
SourcingApr 18, 2024
Diamond Trade Remains Cautious Amid Economic UncertaintyDe Beers’ rough diamond sales were down 18 percent year-over-year in its latest round of sales.
